so im looking to build some quantum lights for my room. im trying to do things as cheap as i can and didnt really see anything i could use off the shelf. I ended up buying 4 26 inch sections of (http://www.heatsinkusa.com/7-984-new/) which seems like its gonna work just fine. The problem i have is at first i thought i would be super easy to drill and tap as it aluminum and i have an automotive background so that kinda stuff is up my ally well ive learned that probably isnt the best option as id probably have to use threaded insert of some sort but honestly i feel like there has gotta be a super simple solution
help with mounting qb board on a heatsink
- Thread starter cobber
- Start date
diyled
Well-Known Member
Tapping metal is hard without a drill press unless you've done it a few times. If you dont have one you can buy these for a regular drill cheap. They keep the bit at 90 degrees giving a clean hole and no broken bits stuck in the metal to deal with.
Just double check it with a set square before you start drilling.
Just double check it with a set square before you start drilling.
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
Self tapping screws. Its not like you need a shit ton of pressure on the board, you're not supporting any significant weight.
The Loafter
Well-Known Member
Or go for rivets.
Streetsports
Active Member
Screws with nuts and washers on the fin side. I would use a flat washer and a lock washer. Don't overtighten it.
dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
Just drilled and tapped 8 4-32 holes. 8 more to do. I agree with the line it up with the fins and through drill. 4-40 washers etc. work. I have 6 qb's mounted on heatsink USA stock this way. Line up the holes to center the fins on the screw holes. 13"x8 heatsink. $18 plus shipping. I'm building a 16 1212 Citi rig on 2 44" x 8" sink 8 per sink, 3k ver 5. Coolhood design. 4-40 btw gives a bit of slop for easier mounting.
yeah i think that basically my issue was that half of the time i was hitting the fins when running the tap threw probably my bad for not putting the effort into avoiding the fins but i figured it was just aluminum and yes i do know how to operate a tap just normally work with automotive stuff i underestimated how fragile the treads would be not having very good success rate (maybe 50/50) and was not really the simplest solution obviously if i had worked at it for hours i would have gotten somewhere with it but. i ended up just drilling pilot holes with a 3/32 bit and ran some # 4 - (idk the pitch but really its about the diameter) sheet metal screw self tapper would be better but i could not find any so small but i just impacted the screws in my pilot holes before mounting filed things smooth and honestly it worked super fast and clean i will post pictures when im threw but that seems like a very good method if anyone else needs a pointer
Drill and tap is the best. heres one I did with a heatsinkusa sink
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dandyrandy
Well-Known Member
Drill and tap is always the best. I have a pattern for 3590's and 1212's now on my set of heatsinks. I still have a set of Vero 29's I glued on 4 years ago I ran at 100w with no problems.