HockeyBeard
Well-Known Member
That's a cool one for a Vero build. Do you need a holder for those?
Help me build a large CXA3070 Rig
- Thread starter HockeyBeard
- Start date
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
On the Vero 29 holders, the screw goes through both the holder and the COB and you only use 2. No you don't need the holder, but it is only a dollar or 2 each and are worth it. On Digikey, the holder, wire connector, and COB is about $31 per set.
alesh
Well-Known Member
What's the advantage of using a holder with Vero29?
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Covers wires and pushes down around the edge of the COB. Can also attach, I think, a reflector.
alesh
Well-Known Member
So it seems to you that the COB is secured better as opposed with the default 4 screws installation? And of course a reflector...if you're gonna use one you can't avoid a holder I suppose.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Watching myself tightening the screw you can see it push evenly all around the edge of the les. And no exposed wires. I almost for got they had 4 holes. I personally think only the outer perimeter needs a short reflector. Just to define the edge.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
In that example you would need 9 drivers. Will you be set up with 72 ft² of canopy, no walkways included? If so:
CXA3070 X 72 @ $25 = $1800
HLG-185H-C700 X 9 @ $55 = $495
Rosewill RXC-Z300 X 72 @ $12 = $864
50mm lens X 72 @ $3 = $216
basic build cost = $3375 / 810 canopy PAR W = $4.16/PAR W in the canopy
72 CXA3070 3K AB bin @ 700mA will give you 1800W of dissipation, 50% efficiency, 564 PPFD averaged
CXB3590 X 36 @ $46 = $1656
HLG-185H-C1400 X 9 @ $55 = $495
Arctic 64 Plus X 36 @ $13.50 = $486
50mm lens X 36 @ $3 = $108
basic build cost = $2745 / 907 canopy PAR W = $3.03/PAR W in the canopy
36 CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A = 1800W of dissipation, 56% efficiency, 627 PPFD averaged
CXB3590 X 36 @ $46 = $1656
HLG-185H-C1400 X 9 @ $55 = $495
Heatsink USA 3.5" X 40" X 9 @ $53 = $477
80mm fan X 9 @ $2 = $18
50mm lens X 36 @ $3 = $108
basic build cost = $2754 / 907 canopy PAR W = $3.04/PAR W in the canopy
36 CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A = 1800W of dissipation, 56% efficiency, 627 PPFD averaged
CXB3590 X 48 @ $46 = $2208
HLG-185H-C1400 X 12 @ $55 = $660
Heatsink USA 3.5" X 40" X 12 @ $49 = $590
80mm fan X 12 @ $2 = $24
50mm lens X 48 @ $3 = $144
basic build cost = $3626 / 1210 canopy PAR W = $3.00/PAR W in the canopy
48 CXB3590 3500K CD 36V @ 1.4A = 2400W of dissipation, 56% efficiency, 836 PPFD averaged
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SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
With the CXB3590 design, 4 COBs per driver on a 40" heatsink, you could mount the drivers on the heatsink to reduce wiring/rigging and daisy chain them. You could hang the heatsinks 3X3 or 4X3 to cover the space evenly. As far as drilling holes, you can just use kapton, paste and solder. If you prefer holders you can just drill a hole and use self tapping screws. Predrilled holes are awesome but I am skeptical whether those $15 heatsinks could do the job passively, even with CXA3070s @ 25W. Would be an interesting temp droop test though.
You are right a lot of time would go into this build, especially when you are breaking trail and even more so if you want to make it aesthetic. Absolutely worth the effort IMO.
You are right a lot of time would go into this build, especially when you are breaking trail and even more so if you want to make it aesthetic. Absolutely worth the effort IMO.
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littlejacob
Well-Known Member
Tim Fox
Well-Known Member
i had a feeling the cxb3590 would be cheaper in the long run to light a larger area, plus the added efficiencey and ppfd
HockeyBeard
Well-Known Member
Correct, no walk ways. I'll have space to walk around the entire footprint. I'm thinking of only going 2 wide with 10G pots into a SCROG. I know I could probably get by cutting the canopy to 5x12 if I'm only going two across, and that's something I'm considering as well. I could probably handle 3 across in 7s, though.
Supra just hit a grand slam. Great data there. I wasn't really sure of all the specs on the 3590, how well it would do with less chips but I trust your data. For almost the same money that I was going to spend, I can get a 20% boost in PPFD... I have a vague understanding of what PPFD is, but I have no idea how much it effects yield.
I absolutely want to make them aesthetic, that's an important factor for me. You still have to sand and level the heatsink USA sinks, correct? I guess it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world, I'd have an extra set of hands to help me with that part.
Supra just hit a grand slam. Great data there. I wasn't really sure of all the specs on the 3590, how well it would do with less chips but I trust your data. For almost the same money that I was going to spend, I can get a 20% boost in PPFD... I have a vague understanding of what PPFD is, but I have no idea how much it effects yield.
I absolutely want to make them aesthetic, that's an important factor for me. You still have to sand and level the heatsink USA sinks, correct? I guess it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world, I'd have an extra set of hands to help me with that part.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yes you could use 72V with C700 driver or you coud use 36V with C1400 driver
littlejacob
Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="SupraSPL, post: 11924605, member:
CXB3590 X 36 @ $46 = $1656
HLG-185H-C1400 X 9 @ $55 = $495
Arctic 64 Plus X 36 @ $13.50 = $486
50mm lens X 36 @ $3 = $108
basic build cost = $2745 / 907 canopy PAR W = $3.03/PAR W in the canopy
36 CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.4A = 1800W of dissipation, 56% efficiency, 627 PPFD averaged[/QUOTE]
CU
CXB3590 X 36 @ $46 = $1656
HLG-185H-C1400 X 9 @ $55 = $495
Arctic 64 Plus X 36 @ $13.50 = $486
50mm lens X 36 @ $3 = $108
basic build cost = $2745 / 907 canopy PAR W = $3.03/PAR W in the canopy
36 CXB3590 3500K CD 72V @ 1.4A = 1800W of dissipation, 56% efficiency, 627 PPFD averaged[/QUOTE]
CU
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
PPFD represents PAR photons/second/sq meter. Assuming environmental conditions and fertility conditions are right, PPFD has a direct effect on yield. It is not a linear relationship though. This chart is cannabis specific
I no longer sand or polish heatsinks even though none of them are perfectly flat, CPU coolers, HUSA sinks or any other I have come across. In the type of system we growers build, the thermal interface is not a bottleneck so improving the heatsink surface makes no difference to performance. That showed up when I started doing temp droop testing and I had to retract my recommendation of flattening them for that reason. Sorry if my early posts caused you any confusion. A healthy dose of thermal paste does the job very well. In the CXB3590 example build above, you could expect ~2% temp droop.
@Captain Morgan brought up an interesting point though, when mounting ceramic based COBs with holders, is it OK to screw the COB down onto a concave surface or could it potentially crack? Unfortunately I cannot answer that because I do not screw them in. Cree does recommend flattening and sanding to 1000 grit US.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Thanks LJ fixed. For anyone wondering, you could chose between 36V and 72V depending on the availability of COBs and drivers. There are other pros and cons, 36V is "safer" for the grower and 72V might be desirable for builds with long wire runs between the driver and COBs to reduce voltage drop.
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SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
If you do decide to sand heatsinks, you can go at it with wet sanding 60 grit or 80 grit to get it flat and smooth the scratches out with 220 and smooth the surface with 600. That will quickly and hugely improve the surface if you are concerned about cracking.
HockeyBeard
Well-Known Member
If I use holders, I was just going to use the 3M 5590 thermal pads. That should help make a flat connection, no?
I'm not really sure what I'm looking at on that chart, though.
I'm not really sure what I'm looking at on that chart, though.
littlejacob
Well-Known Member
QUOTE="SupraSPL, post: 11925444, member: 129132"]Thanks LJ fixed. For anyone wondering, you could chose between 36V and 72V depending on the availability of COBs and drivers. There are other pros and cons, 36V is "safer" for the grower and 72V might be desirable for builds with long wire runs between the driver and COBs to reduce voltage drop.[/QUOTE]
Bonjour
@SupraSPL what do you call "long wire between cob and driver"?
Thanks...
Have a great day ★
Bonjour
@SupraSPL what do you call "long wire between cob and driver"?
Thanks...
Have a great day ★
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HockeyBeard
Well-Known Member
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
If you run the CXA3070s at 700mA you can run 8 of them on an HLG-185H-C700 at 24.5W each. If you want to run them at 52W ea, you can run 3 of them on an HLG-185H-C1400.
The Rosewill RCX-Z300 can just fit the 3070 sized COBs, the corners hang off just a bit but the entire area behind the LES is cooled by the copper core.
The Rosewill RCX-Z300 can just fit the 3070 sized COBs, the corners hang off just a bit but the entire area behind the LES is cooled by the copper core.