help! boron, iron, & zinc deficiency!

cannakis

Well-Known Member
As an added safety, if you're using a smart phone, make sure to turn off the GPS location in the meta data, and use an application that strips image meta data before uploading just to make sure it doesn't have any information like your exact coordinates in the picture's meta data. Just something to keep in mind if you're worried.
Is there a way to check? I did disable the location services because it was showing up on my mmaps... Is there More to be done or is that it? Is there a way to check?
 

foreverflyhi

Well-Known Member
Those clones look young, you have a bunch of options, what I would do is start over, go back to the drawing board and see what went wrong with your recipe, if u have to keep your clones, take them out the soil gently, wash the roots and transplant then into a healthy medium (fuck it bag soil will do for now) meanwhile correct your soil, and transplant when ready.
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
Those clones look young, you have a bunch of options, what I would do is start over, go back to the drawing board and see what went wrong with your recipe, if u have to keep your clones, take them out the soil gently, wash the roots and transplant then into a healthy medium (fuck it bag soil will do for now) meanwhile correct your soil, and transplant when ready.
thanks brother. actually they are all from seed besides the two really small ones.
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
I dont think you should start over, just transplant them into bag soil until you get a soil PH tester.
Yeah that's what I was going to do... Well fix my soil then replant... But they are still running. I Am just going to buy some peat moss and get some soil ph pills and do some testing.

You know honestly I was outside turning my manure pile which is mainly saw dust... And honestly that smells So much better and cleaner than the stupid soil I spent all these hundreds of dollars on inside!!! Like the steam is Literally refreshingafter two weeks of hot composting.! I mean Refreshing! Like a nice steamy sauna! While the new batch of soil I'm cooking inside smells like a babies diaper.!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Yeah that's what I was going to do... Well fix my soil then replant... But they are still running. I Am just going to buy some peat moss and get some soil ph pills and do some testing.

You know honestly I was outside turning my manure pile which is mainly saw dust... And honestly that smells So much better and cleaner than the stupid soil I spent all these hundreds of dollars on inside!!! Like the steam is Literally refreshingafter two weeks of hot composting.! I mean Refreshing! Like a nice steamy sauna! While the new batch of soil I'm cooking inside smells like a babies diaper.!
a babies diaper? yikes....that's probably the manure, blood meal, bone meal and the rest of it being anaerobic.
I'm confused here. I do NOT believe you have a deficiency, a potassium def would be doubtful, you have alfalfa soaked in molasses, I believe you have too much food in the soil mix, i'd bet good money if you cut that soil exactly in half and "diluted" it with peat moss and an inert drainage mix that you'd have no more problems.
Too much. Try it, and see, I'd also would let that cook for at least another month, watering it with AACT at least twice.
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
a babies diaper? yikes....that's probably the manure, blood meal, bone meal and the rest of it being anaerobic.
I'm confused here. I do NOT believe you have a deficiency, a potassium def would be doubtful, you have alfalfa soaked in molasses, I believe you have too much food in the soil mix, i'd bet good money if you cut that soil exactly in half and "diluted" it with peat moss and an inert drainage mix that you'd have no more problems.
Too much. Try it, and see, I'd also would let that cook for at least another month, watering it with AACT at least twice.
Cool thanks will do. Adding peat moss tomorrow.! Thanks for the help!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks will do. Adding peat moss tomorrow.! Thanks for the help!
no problem, maybe try a bag of cowboy charcoal busted up and rinsed too, may even try not charging it first to see if it can bring that soil back, that's how they've used it for hundreds of years
make sure to add some aeration as well as the peat, maybe a third the amount of the peat, so if you add 3 cubic feet of peat, add 1 cubic feet or aeration.
 
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cannakis

Well-Known Member
no problem, maybe try a bag of cowboy charcoal busted up and rinsed too, may even try not charging it first to see if it can bring that soil back, that's how they've used it for hundreds of years
make sure to add some aeration as well as the peat, maybe a third the amount of the peat, so if you add 3 cubic feet of peat, add 1 cubic feet or aeration.
what kind of aeration? i like the charcoal idea...
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
what kind of aeration? i like the charcoal idea...
Rrog and others suggest 5%-10% by volume char. That would be considered part of your aeration bits. If the goal is to have 25%-33% aeration for your base then you could make up the difference with the usual suspects (rice hulls, pumice, lava rock,etc).

Grease monkeys idea of uncharged bio char is an interesting one if you do in fact have too much high N inputs in your soil. Use that char to sequester some of the Nitrogen
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Rrog and others suggest 5%-10% by volume char. That would be considered part of your aeration bits. If the goal is to have 25%-33% aeration for your base then you could make up the difference with the usual suspects (rice hulls, pumice, lava rock,etc).

Grease monkeys idea of uncharged bio char is an interesting one if you do in fact have too much high N inputs in your soil. Use that char to sequester some of the Nitrogen
yeah I figure if they can bring back land that has been desolated with chemicals it should be able to bring back a too rich soil. Course just cuz it makes sense in my head doesn't mean a whole lot... seems like it should be true, right?
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
Okay so I did some soil tests... And I Am Not buying Any peat moss, what was at the store had higher ph than some top soil.! So I just bought a soil test kit, and tested soil outside, inside that I made, the woody manure compost, AND Piny Forest Mould.!! The mould is Insane! Super low ph, like 4, so I'm just going to cut my soil with that instead of paying for peat which takes centuries and more to produce the peat bogs.! My indoor soil has Super high ph like 10+, and npk is extra high! So the mould should help big time.!
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
yeah I figure if they can bring back land that has been desolated with chemicals it should be able to bring back a too rich soil. Course just cuz it makes sense in my head doesn't mean a whole lot... seems like it should be true, right?
Hahaha yeah dats right.! Putting it to fruition changes everything.! Though theory aids tremendously.! Leaves behind the need for over xperimentation.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Okay so I did some soil tests... And I Am Not buying Any peat moss, what was at the store had higher ph than some top soil.! So I just bought a soil test kit, and tested soil outside, inside that I made, the woody manure compost, AND Piny Forest Mould.!! The mould is Insane! Super low ph, like 4, so I'm just going to cut my soil with that instead of paying for peat which takes centuries and more to produce the peat bogs.! My indoor soil has Super high ph like 10+, and npk is extra high! So the mould should help big time.!
peat moss lowers your ph, it's acidic, so adding peat should help, what was the ph for the store-peat? (should have been damn near 4.5)i'm not too sure about adding a soil that is that acidic, maybe for growing some tasty blueberries or cranberries... but I wouldn't for herb.
not unless you add a small amount, but that's just me, remember most soils will get more acidic over time.
I stand by my original advice, add some peat and some aeration, and some uncharged charcoal, and cook the soil for at least a month, maybe more considering it's getting cold now.
And holy crap, how is your soil's ph above 10?? That's gonna be a freakin chemistry class on it's own just to get it back down to 7
 

cannakis

Well-Known Member
peat moss lowers your ph, it's acidic, so adding peat should help, what was the ph for the store-peat? (should have been damn near 4.5)i'm not too sure about adding a soil that is that acidic, maybe for growing some tasty blueberries or cranberries... but I wouldn't for herb.
not unless you add a small amount, but that's just me, remember most soils will get more acidic over time.
I stand by my original advice, add some peat and some aeration, and some uncharged charcoal, and cook the soil for at least a month, maybe more considering it's getting cold now.
And holy crap, how is your soil's ph above 10?? That's gonna be a freakin chemistry class on it's own just to get it back down to 7
hahaha thats what im saying, and adding more than half forest mould with the cooked soil that Does smell fresh, but was just to hot, and it only brought it down to 7.!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Okay so I did some soil tests... And I Am Not buying Any peat moss, what was at the store had higher ph than some top soil.! So I just bought a soil test kit, and tested soil outside, inside that I made, the woody manure compost, AND Piny Forest Mould.!! The mould is Insane! Super low ph, like 4, so I'm just going to cut my soil with that instead of paying for peat which takes centuries and more to produce the peat bogs.! My indoor soil has Super high ph like 10+, and npk is extra high! So the mould should help big time.!
My point was you said the peat at the store had a higher ph than the top soil, are you sure? because typically it'll be around 4.5, go buy a big bale of it, and some charcoal, and a bag of volcanic rock, then mix it all up with your amended soil, let it age for a month or so, and then your soil should be good
 
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