Heat Stress, Rhizo spray burn from light proximity, or nitrogen defiency etc???

These leaves are from clones about two-three weeks past rock wool transplant into Canna Coco.

The two leaves represent the two symptoms,

1. Leaves curling up and even dieing in localized areas
(Almost looks like bugs eating away, but not)

2. Mainly younger leaves browning at tips and edges w/ some yellow

These ladies since transplant have had:
GH Flora three part (2cups Gro/2cups Micro/ NO BLOOM)
Rhizotonic (2 cups)
Diamond Nectar (2 cups)
PH around 6.2
H2O2 after several days since res refill, and done every week

Factors:

One time they were sprayed with pure rhizo early in photoperiod but in full light after transplant (1 or 2 1000w HPS at 4-5 feet away) and this may have caused some burn or curling?

Also it is possible that the temperature one day was pushing towards 90F around plants foliage, this could have caused internal leave temp to rise and curl/dry?

Also, could anyone vouch that even with diamond nectar for nuit transport and rhizo microbes etc, I may still have a deficiency due to not using coco’s recommended dose of Cal/Mag? 200ppm I believe

About the heat it is heating up and A/C will be in tomorrow!

(I guess my new account cant post pictures yet??? Oh well I tried to be thorough)

Thanks Bud Jedi!

When you say 2 cups what exactly do you mean? Did you mean that you added two cups of mix to water? If so how big is your res? Can you measure nutrient concentration? (you must be able to measure nutrient concentration to be really successful with hydro.) I start at 5.8 Ph then let it drift to about 6.1 before I adjust it to let it sweep the range required for each nutrient to be absorbed.

Be wary of magic sauces and potions purported to make monster buds and whatnot. Mostly scams and voodoo and water, if you make the proper nutes at the right Ph available to your plants they will grow great.

(If I peed in a bottle I could label it and sell it as a nitrogen booster. Wanna buy some magic sauce?)

Especially for the first few grows, as these potions and toad tongues really goober up your results. My advice to you is to start out with nothing but basic nutrient set(why no bloom in your GH mix?), then you have a basis to judge these snake oils as they really are, SNAKE OIL.

If you start out with all kinds of gook in your mix it will be impossible for anyone to give you a decent answer.


Hows that for answering a question with 5 questions hee hee.

Keep up the good fight bro

For the flamers who will say how great those sauces are, beat these. Nothing but GH three part and H2O2 in their res.

Hey Thanks for the response K-P Dub

I hear you man, although I have heard great things about the rhizotonic it is speculative and easily an excess.

I am pretty unsure of nectar; these are new to my biosphere.

I am glad diamond nectar is on the venue as I have heard a bit about coco locking up calcium and mag nutrients, being less available, and so canna recommends it, of course right, I know.

As far as nitrogen’s concerned I think the plants are fine from the FloraGro, I might consider adding some guano to the bottom of coco for time released Nitrogen. (Someone’s recommendation referencing use for coco)

I sort of had plenty of beautiful girls thrown in my lap so the reason for using no bloom, rhizo and nectar is that it is the recommendation of the man himself for this stage and the purple variety. And I am a novice with Indoor and so for the better part overall.

My Res is 380L or 80 gallons. And so I mix them all and add h2o2 after a few days, I am a little worried about rhizos decomposition in water containing chlorides and salts etc. So it won’t go for long.

I run my pH at 6 and drifts a little with canna coco, I do not have an EC gun on site, and it will be in the next couple days.

BTW do you have a favorite method for fungus gnats/larvae?
-Mosquito disks
-Neem oil drench
-BT-1 Products
-Covering the containers
Also, should one really worry about green algae building up slightly on the topsoil?

Thanks again for all the compassion

PS: Great wieght on those lower nugs! What strains do you like to grow?

Flux451 said:

[I hear you man, although I have heard great things about the rhizotonic it is speculative and easily an excess.

Click to expand...

Actually if that is what I think it is, a fungal/bacterial innoculation that introduces symboitic organisms like mycorrhizae or trichoderma, that is a good product to use. It will make your roots able to absorb nutrients much better. With regards to the other additives, I don't know, but personally I have used and still do use a rhizosphere innoculant and I like the results.

Flux451 said:

I am glad diamond nectar is on the venue as I have heard a bit about coco locking up calcium and mag nutrients, being less available, and so canna recommends it, of course right, I know.

Click to expand...

I have heard from a few Coco growers that you've really got to add the Cal/Mag because they will get deficiencies in those nutes fairly easily. Something to do with the coco medium. I looked at that diamond nectar stuff on google, it does not seem to be a cal/mag product so you should get a separate cal/mag supplement to feed your plants. I really don't understand what that stuff is supposed to do, on one site it said the ingredients were "phosphoric acid, potassium hydroxide". ???

Flux451 said:

My Res is 380L or 80 gallons. And so I mix them all and add h2o2 after a few days, I am a little worried about rhizos decomposition in water containing chlorides and salts etc. So it won’t go for long.

Click to expand...

H2O2 kills all your beneficials when you use it, so if you are trying to add beneficial organisms with the rhizo stuff, you are just killing them all off the next time you use H2O2. Hydrogen Peroxide is indiscriminate, it just kills whatever it touches.

Flux451 said:

BTW do you have a favorite method for fungus gnats/larvae?
-Mosquito disks
-Neem oil drench
-BT-1 Products
-Covering the containers
Also, should one really worry about green algae building up slightly on the topsoil?

Click to expand...

I like the yellow sticky card traps to kill the adult fungus gnats without using any poisons. H2O2 should kill the larvae but like I said it also will kill off any beneficials you are trying to introduce. You can get the mosquito dunks which I think contain B.I., a kind of bacteria that only kills the fungus gnats, not other beneficials you have in the soil. Gnatrol is another product that has the same ingredient, but I think it is more money. You can also put a layer of clean, sterile sand over your soil to keep the adults from being able to lay more eggs on your soil. Another idea is using slices of peeled potato on the surface of the soil. After they have been sitting there for a while, the larvae will be attracted up to them and you can turn over the potato piece and pick out the larvae.

Hope this helps!

y advice to you is to start out with nothing but basic nutrient set(why no bloom in your GH mix?), then you have a basis to judge these snake oils as they really are, SNAKE OIL.

Click to expand...

I agree. Ive grown using just base nutrients and had great results. Good genetics is the ultimate factor in finishing with dank buds.

Flux are you running a drip system?

No problem, and you're right, a Metal Halide is a better light to use during the veg phase, and then switch to the HPS for the reds that the flowering phase likes. Of course if you do them both together that will be good too, it'll just cost you more for the electricity.

I don't know if CFLs would really do much if you are already hitting the plants with 1kw of HPS. I don't know for sure, but it just seems like it is adding a couple candles to a room full of flood lights.