Having an issue with my chiller not turning off.

dstroy

Well-Known Member
@dstroy so I wanted to update you on my chiller. I took the thermistor out and tested it. All is well it was around 10,000 ohms at room temperature and quickly Rose to 20,000 plus when I dumped it in ice cold water. Both relays are working from what we talked about. It's seeming like what you said maybe true that the controller is bad but unfortunately they do not make that model anymore and it's going to have to be fixed by my own hand. What I am noticing is that as soon as I plug it in or it receives power the fan is always running. And I mean always. So I think there's something else that is not allowing my compressor or fan to turn off. All the lights on the display are doing what they're supposed to. When it hits it set temperature, the chilling light turns off and the power light is the only thing illuminated. At that time, my machine should completely stop working and not make a sound. But like we've discussed what happens, is that it continues to stay on and chills below my set temperature. Once it's gone 2 degrees below that temperature, the external heater light starts flashing and eventually becomes solid like it's supposed to. The outlet in the back starts to receive power. So I'm trying to figure out what could be causing just the fan and compressor to stay on. Any ideas?
Yeah either the transistor that switches the relay or the pin on the micro controller for the transistor that switches the relay.

I don’t know where you’d be able to find a replacement part for the controller IC that comes pre programmed if they don’t make the model anymore. The other parts are easy to find.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
How can I test these? And if you could, circle again with your super fancy phone the part I’m looking for? :D Is it what I asked you what was in the pic I posted a few posts back?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
So check the coil side and then the transistors and if not those, what’s next @dstroy ? What is this Pin you talked about?
 
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Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
ive looked everywhere online to try and find how to test this myself and find the order in which the compon nets work to deliver the signal to turn the fan and compressor on and off with no luck at all.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Yeah, no. If the temperature displayed on the unit is correct and you’ve verified the reading with a separate thermometer then it is not the temperature probe.

It’s not called “ohming out”, it’s called a continuity test, or sometimes ringing out, but ringing out is reserved for long cable runs usually, or that thing audio engineers do to prevent feedback. Checking for resistance is related to a continuity test.

Anyways, it’s easy enough to check if the relay is sticking on, all you do is check to see if the coil is deenergized when the set point has been reached, and you think the control signal should be low ie if the desired temp has been reached the coil for the relay should not be receiving power anymore. If it’s deenergized and the contacts are still closed then the relay is sticking closed. It is also a very easy replacement, and cheap if that’s the case. The other thing that could be wrong is that the little transistor, which is the “switch” for the relay might have failed, which is also easy to test for, or the resistor that pulls the gate (transistor gate) low could be bad.

Worst case scenario is that the output pin on the micro controller is malfunctioning. Also easy to check for if you follow the trace back from the gate on that transistor. Should be “low” when the compressor should be off.
Can you explain this a little better for me man? I was reading through the posts you wrote and missed this in depth process you had mentioned. This is what I’ve been asking for basically. Where do I test these components, how(where do the probes go), and what should they be doing?
Also, are my relays single pole single throw or single pole double throw? Since it has only 4 pins, but the replacement has 5, I’m a bit confused...
 

dstroy

Well-Known Member
Can you explain this a little better for me man? I was reading through the posts you wrote and missed this in depth process you had mentioned. This is what I’ve been asking for basically. Where do I test these components, how(where do the probes go), and what should they be doing?
Also, are my relays single pole single throw or single pole double throw? Since it has only 4 pins, but the replacement has 5, I’m a bit confused...
Yeah man, if you want to get into electronics go check out eevblog. He has a whole series on multimeters and how to use them. What circuits do and such, you really should get into it man, interesting stuff and you’ll be able to fix more around the house once you get a little more knowledgeable. I love electronics.

It’s an SPDT relay, the 5th pin on the relays you have had been cut at the factory. The replacement part is SPDT also, but needs its’ pin cut to match the existing relay.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
So I just went back to it after letting the temperature warm up a bit. I set it to 66 as the temperature was at 68. Just to make a point to you the fan was blowing as soon as I plugged it in. But as the green Chiller light was flashing, as soon as it went solid I definitely heard and felt the relay click. And like I thought the opposite relay from before is now doing the same thing. Pole 1 is receiving NO power and 2, 3 and 4 all are. When the heater one clicked, it was poles 1, 2, & 4. so...

I just did it again and physically held the probes from the voltmeter on j9 and Pole 1 and as the green light was flashing as soon as it went solid it went straight to zero, I also then turn my set temp up to 69 and immediately that pole 1 received power again and as the red light was flashing once it went solid I heard the click and pole 3 went straight down to zero. So I'm assuming all of my relays are working. It has to be something else?
This confirms my relays are working correct? I’ve still never gotten your thoughts on what I documented happening. @dstroy
 
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Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Well I made an account on eevblog and asked my questions in the repair section of the forums. Hopefully someone there is willing to guide me through the process of finding out what is wrong with this. I really wish I could just have you tell me as you did with the relays what to do next. I feel like you’re one of few people that could get me to an end result and find the issue and component that needs replacing.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
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EcoPlus Chiller, 1/10 HP
byEcoPlus
Size: 0.1 HP|Change
Price:$296.55+ Free shipping
Wonder why your chiller gets such SHITTY Reviews??
Once again you arrogant piece of shit, that's NOT my fucking chiller. The one I have was made BEFORE they started manufacturing them out of China. The older model, gets great reviews all over the Internet and people can tell the difference between the new model and the old. You're correct though that the new models are a piece of shit. Which is why I don't own one.

eco plus 1-10 hp water chiller 93 gal aquarium reef.jpg eco plus 1-10 hp water chiller 93 gal aquarium reef_.jpg
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
So stick the fuckin temp controller on it and be done. ASSHOLE.
ECOPLUS is known as cheap ass equipment. You don't have the smarts to fix the piece of shit.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
Well I made an account on eevblog and asked my questions in the repair section of the forums. Hopefully someone there is willing to guide me through the process of finding out what is wrong with this. I really wish I could just have you tell me as you did with the relays what to do next. I feel like you’re one of few people that could get me to an end result and find the issue and component that needs replacing.
POOR PITTIFUL YOU.......
 
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