Having a hard time identifing what the problem is

I have been having a hard time finding out what is going on with this plant. I feel like i have read everything about deficiencies and toxicity of all the elements but nothing mentions anything about yellowing veins with green in between the veins, everything i find is the other way around. Is it possibly too much calcium? I'm having a tough time figuring this out folks. Can someone please help?

3'x3'x6.5' grow tent w/ 600 watt hps
Organic composted soil
tap water left to sit for at least 24hrs - ec is .2
General Organics lineup of nutrients
Temps are usually between 75-78 with lights on and 70ish lights off

note - thought about switching to veg+bloom dirty, used it twice i think (probably not the best idea, but it is supposedly safe with organics) but decided to just use GO line so im back to that. I did flush the soil a bit between changing nutes.
P.S. Sorry for picture quality
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Dibbsey

Well-Known Member
Try flushing and not using nutes, let her heal naturally and when shes healthy looking again, use half the nutes you were using to keep her healthy still.
 
Thanks I just gave her a good flush a few minutes ago. Hopefully by the morning, before lights out, she will have a little color back. Any idea which element might be the culprit?
 
Does anybody know what causes the plant to look like that? I'm kinda leaning towards too much calcium and/or magnesium. Any and all info is greatly appreciated.
 
its been 2 days now since the flush and things are a lot greener this morning. Im still not sure what the exact cause of the yellowing is/was, but it seems to be yesterdays news now. Thanks Dibbsey for the reply
 

Dibbsey

Well-Known Member
sorry didnt see you keep posting. But dont feed it alot of nutes never use what the instructions tell you. this happens with most people. and then they try to fix it by adding more stuff. best thing to do is just leave her heal herself. Glad to hear shes greening out again. Fresh pics ? :)
 
Yeah ill get some new pics just before lights on. Ive never had a problem with the GO line. Had a few good runs using it. I think when i tried the veg+bloom for the couple feedings it built up in the soil. Im still curious as to which element was the issue.
 

MarWan

Well-Known Member
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]this might be the problem

Sulfur Deficiency


Leaves show a general overall chlorosis while still retaining some green color. The veins and petioles show a very distinct reddish color. The visual symptoms of sulfur deficiency are very similar to the chlorosis found in nitrogen deficiency. However, in sulfur deficiency the yellowing is much more uniform over the entire plant including young leaves. The reddish color often found on the underside of the leaves and the petioles has a more pinkish tone and is much less vivid than that found in nitrogen deficiency. With advanced sulfur deficiency brown lesions and/or necrotic spots often develop along the petiole, and the leaves tend to become more erect and often twisted and brittle.

Sulfur plays an important role in root growth, chlorophyll supply and plant proteins. Just like iron, Sulfur moves slowly in the plant, hotter temps will make Sulfur harder to absorb like iron. But unlike iron, Sulfur is distributed evenly throughout the plant, mainly the big fan leaves. Sulphur is also a very important element in vegetative growth.

First signs of a Sulfur deficiency are pale young leaves. The growth of leaves will remain slow, but the leaves can also get brittle and stay narrower than normal. Can also have small mutated leaves, along with the buds on top of flowering plants will die off. The growth if the plant can be stunted as well as yellowing of the younger leaves and new growth. Unlike a magnesium deficiency where it starts from the leaves tip and around, sulfur starts from the back of the leaves on forward to the middle of the leaves. The Stems become Hard, thin and may be woody. Some of the plants may show orange and red tints rather than yellowing. The stems will increase in length but not in diameter. Leaves will then be stiff and brittle like glass and fall off soon. Parts affected by a Sulfur deficiency are: The whole plant can be affected as well as young leaves, leaf veins.

Too much Sulfur will cause your plants to be small along with the size of your leaves, along with your leaves being brown and dead looking at the tips. An excess of sulfur can also look like salt damage, restricted growth and dark color damage.


Problems with Sulfur being locked out by PH troubles



Soil

Sulfur gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-5.5
Sulfur is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0- 9.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Sulfur Deficiency.


Hydro and Soil less Mediums


Sulfur gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5
Sulfur is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0- 9.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an Sulfur deficiency.



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[/FONT]source : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=231387
 

MarWan

Well-Known Member
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] or this

Zinc Deficiency

In the early stages of zinc deficiency the younger leaves become yellow and pitting develops in the interveinal upper surfaces of the mature leaves. Guttation is also prevalent. As the deficiency progress these symptoms develop into an intense interveinal necrosis but the main veins remain green, as in the symptoms of recovering iron deficiency. In many plants, especially trees, the leaves become very small and the internodes shorten, producing a rosette like appearance.


Zinc plays a lot of roles in the plants, first off zinc aids in the plants size and maturity as well as production of leaves, stalks, stems and branches. Zinc is an essential component in many enzymes as well as growth hormone auxin .Low auxin levels can be the cause of stunting of the plants leaves and the shoots. Zinc is also important in the formation and activity of chlorophyll. Plants that have a good level of Zinc, can handle long droughts. So that’s why Zinc plants an important role how it absorbs moisture.


Zinc deficiencies on some plants will have the Spotting and bleached spots (chlorosis) between the veins first appears on the older leaves first, and then goes on to the immature leaves. It will then start to slowly affect tips of growing points of the plants. When the zinc deficiency happens so suddenly, the spotting can appear to be the same symptoms to that of an iron and manganese, without the seeing the little leaf symptom.
Zinc is not mobile in plants so the symptoms will occur mainly in the newer growths. Having a plant that is deficiency in Zinc can cause small crops, short shoots and have a cluster of small distorted leaves near the tips. Between the veins (Interveinal) yellowing is often combined with overall paleness. Pale or grayish, yellowing between the veins; rosetted weak is the signs of a Zinc deficiency.
With a low level of zinc in your plants, your yields will be dramatically reduced.
Interveinal chlorosis is present in the small, narrow distorted leaves at the ends of really shortened shoots and the shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. These nutrients will get locked out due to high pH: Zinc, Iron, and Manganese. These deficiencies will often occur together. Parts affected by a zinc deficiency are young leaves and petioles.

Having an excess of Zinc is very rare, but when it does happen it can cause wilting and in worse cases death.


Problems with Zinc being locked out by PH troubles

High ph, Low organic matter, High Phosphorus levels in the soil, and or lack of nitrogen.


Soil

Zinc gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.5-4.7, 7.5-9.5
Zinc absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Zinc gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.7-8.5
Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.









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I wasnt paying attn when the lights were supposed to come so i didnt get pics with the lights off :| so its hard to tell the color well, but you can kinda see the whole thing is closer to all being the same color as opposed to the previous pics. Its was an abundance of something (still not positive what) as a flush is taking care of it.
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Also was thinking about giving her a little bit of compost tea. Any opinions on that?
 
I know. i wasnt payin attn to the time. the things is tho that you can see the leaves are all about the same color now as opposed to before when they werent
sorry for the hps on pics :/
 
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