WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
How were they grown, in a rail, tub? veg time/size at flowering?
Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!
- Thread starter StinkBud
- Start date
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
Oregon Special Update:
Seedlings are coming along nicely. I have a rack of 4 clones I'm going to flower within the next week or two. It looks like the way the Oregon law is written is you can only have 4 plants per property, not person like I originally thought. That means more veg time and bigger plants. No big deal. If you train the plants using the netting you can fill the whole rack just like you would using 8 plants.
So here are a couple of photos to. I also posted a couple of shots of the current flowers. They are looking super frosty and when you touch them the smell is un-fucking-real! I have a couple of seedling showing some amazing old-school Afghani traits. Super wide duck-feet leaves. The blades are almost round. Here you go...
Seedlings are coming along nicely. I have a rack of 4 clones I'm going to flower within the next week or two. It looks like the way the Oregon law is written is you can only have 4 plants per property, not person like I originally thought. That means more veg time and bigger plants. No big deal. If you train the plants using the netting you can fill the whole rack just like you would using 8 plants.
So here are a couple of photos to. I also posted a couple of shots of the current flowers. They are looking super frosty and when you touch them the smell is un-fucking-real! I have a couple of seedling showing some amazing old-school Afghani traits. Super wide duck-feet leaves. The blades are almost round. Here you go...
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blunttrama12
Member
how old are the clones
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
They are actually seedlings although there are 2 clones in the photos. The seedlings are 3 weeks old. I have 4 clones that aren't in the photos.
The new tent arrived and I'm setting up a couple of 1000W HPS lights. I'll have 3 Oregon Specials inside the tent spaced 3 weeks apart (as usual). It's the old tried and trued method I've been using with success for years. Here's a picture of one of the clones I'll be putting into the Oregon Special. It's about 3 weeks old but it had popped roots a good 2 weeks before so it was a nice sized cutting to begin with. Right now it's about 16" around and tall. I'll be putting it under a 1000W light for week with severe training and then it's time to flower.
yktind
Well-Known Member
This was in a tub setup. Veg was like 60 days I think. I veg throughout the entire flowering of a batch. When one batch finishes the next batch goes in. I'm just saying that with one good harvest you will be over your 2.5 oz limit.
Boosted 95z
Active Member
There comes the loose definition in the state laws about it, granted I'm not overly worried. With 5 patients and myself it allows me a max of 12.5oz, more reasonable but still stupid.
Stink,Oregon Special Update
The party continues! I have the new system designed and built. I have set up with some scraggly clones just to test it out. I'm going to let the clones get pretty big before I flower the system. I think I'm going to veg them under fluorescent for 3-4 weeks.
These strains are kind of interesting. We had been running this Kandy Kush plant for a couple of cycles and then all of a sudden one of the plants produces a few male flowers down at the bottom of the plant. What's weird is the plant had never turned hermi before. There weren't many flowers and I caught it early but it still produced a few seeds. We picked out pretty much all we found and kept them aside.
Some of the seeds are a back cross with the Kandy Kush. Basically it's like if you were to fuck yourself and then get pregnant. The offspring is always female too. This is kind of how they get feminized seeds. This is also a good example of why some breeders like DJ Short swear by good old fashioned male/female seeds. Less hermies...
So anyway I also have the Kandy Kush crossed with the Blue Cheese. Basically the plant is a mix of Blueberry, UK Cheese, OG Kush and Trainwreck, four legendary strains. Oh yea, I also have a Critical Kush crossed with the KK. I have a bunch of new seeds popped too so it will be an interesting Summer.
We have a male Tahoe OG Kush jizzing all over a piece of glass right now. We are going to use the pollen to breed some more StinkBud. How good is the Tahoe OG going to be mixed with the Kosher Kush I have starting right now. Or the Blue Cheese! Of course the seeds won't be feminized but then I shouldn't have to worry about hermies, just males. I can work around that if needed.
Anyway here are some photos of the new babies in the new cloner. I'm stoked with the cooler and no leaks. I can take the lid off as many times as I want and there is no issue with the seal. I'm drawing up the plans right now. You can also see the latest rack in progress. It has about 6 weeks to go but everything is already looking frosty as hell! I also have the new Oregon Special done. I'm building a second unit to double check my plans and then I'll draw those up too. I'll be posting the plans here so stay tuned. I also posted a photo of a junior Kandy Kush back-cross bud that's looking real frosty. It smells amazing!!! Enjoy...
First, I would like to thank you for making all of this information available. It is very informative for newb's like myself.
I'm considering building a rail system but I have a few questions.
1) How large of plants have you grown in a rail system with the 5" rails? I plan to build a rail system but I want to limit the number of plants and grow them large, low and wide. I'm considering spacing the rails out a bit and only having one or two large plants per rail.
2) If I did try to grow large plants in this system, would the rails or the 2" net pots be a limiting factor?
3) In the third picture I noticed that you have changed the ends of your rail system and installed the sprayer feed tubes through the sides of the rails. What is the reason for the change and how do you remove them to clean?
greenghost420
Well-Known Member
classic thread! i remember reading this in high times years ago. still would love to build one but am too lazy....
sky rocket
Well-Known Member
I think I still have the HT's issue.classic thread! i remember reading this in high times years ago. still would love to build one but am too lazy....
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
Howdy Rootney!
1) The Oregon Special is a 4-plant system, 2-plants per rail. The plants are staggered in the rails so each side has room to grow across and under the light. The plants are grown large by vegging them an extra 2-3 weeks. My new system is 50"X30" so it's a little bit wider than the StinkBud Jr. and quite a bit bigger than the original SB. I'll be moving my new Oregon Special system into my tent this Saturday. I'll be posting pictures so you can see how big the plants get in veg.
2) Aeroponic plants don't have the huge root balls that DWC and soil produce. The plants are able to absorb all the nutrients and O2 they need with just a small root ball. So 2" net pots work but it's pushing it! By the time I harvest the big plants, the stem can take up the entire hole so the neoprene collar ends up looking a little traumatized. My buddy has been using the 3" netpots with Hydroton pellets. He swears by them but they seem like more of a hassle than they're worth. They don't increase harvest or quality so what's the point.
3) If you notice the reservoir sets completely under the rails now. This reduces the amount of floor space the system takes allowing people more flexibility in placement. Basically it fits in a closet better. So I had to change the design so that the sprayer assembly doesn't stick out the front 2 feet. The sprayer rods are not glued to the last elbows. The end lids are just taped on so all you have to do is reach in and grab the pipe on one side the elbow on the other and pull them apart. The res can still be detached and removed by taking apart the quick release.
It's hard to see in the photos the way the water drain is cut now. I cut it back 3" and bend the plastic down so there is a fairly large flap. The water goes almost all the way to the flap so the system is a lot quieter.
You can extend the outer support pipes up to 7 feet for a nifty light support system. The Oregon Special is designed to be a self contained unit able to fit in a small walk-in closet without any special needs. I want to set up an experimental unit using 3 fluorescent light fixtures. I'm thinking 40,000 lumens for a total of 120,000 lumens! That's almost as much as a 1000W HPS and more than a 1000W MH. You could run one light on top and two on the sides so it would end up a light box. Even the sides of the plants would receive light. No more lolli-popping or popcorn buds. The heat would be drastically reduced. You would still need A/C in the summer but that's normal. It wouldn't have to work as hard that's for sure.
LEDs would also be a good choice if you could buy enough of them. So stay tuned. You never know what you might see next.
Good luck bro!
Thanks for the reply StinkBud. I was actually thinking about the sprayer rods being a push fit but I thought the water pressure would blow them apart. I don't have experience with these systems but I guess they must not have much hydraulic pressure if the fittings stay together without glue. Another way to address that would be making the spray rods touch the outer wall of the fence posts. Since the posts are held in place the water could not push the fittings apart. Cool, I have a plan.
I think I'm going to build my own LED lights for flowering using some of the info from the this forum. Still trying to decide if I want to go LED or Fluorescent for Veg. Let me know how the 3 fluorescent system works. Sounds like a good experiment. How about LED up top and fluorescents on side?
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
I already looked into making my own LED light fixtures. I wanted to create a virtual wall of light surrounding the plants. Maybe even a curved dome. I started pricing LEDs, drivers, lenses, etc... and soon found out you can buy them a lot cheaper and they're already put together. They are really coming down in price and the technology is getting better everyday. Mark my words, someday everyone will be growing with LEDs.
I kind of learned my lesson designing my own cycle timer. I thought I could make one myself for half the cost. By the time I bought all the parts I ended up spending more than if I would have just went out and bought one! I do have to say the circuit design was pretty cool. I used a variable resistor that adjusted the current to a capacitor. Caps are like little batteries and when it reached +5 volts it flipped the circuit in the IC chip. That fired off a relay that let the main voltage through. The chip controlled another circuit that shut off the relay after a certain amount of time. The whole thing worked just like the dial timers you buy at the hydro store. It worked like a store bought timer and looked like store bought spaghetti! Now you really know what a fucking geek I am!
Oh yea, you're right about the fittings being blown apart by the pressure. You have to make sure you really put a lot of pressure on the fitting when you assemble it.
Have fun!
1947 Boy
Member
Hi everyone, this is my first post but I've been doing a lot of reading for about a year now. I bought StinkBud’s book, build his system and a few weeks ago started my first grow from 3 feminized medical seeds (Canatonics, high on CBD).
I would like to comment on UPS running timers and pumps. Majority of UPS units output square wave not sinus wave. Do not be fooled with “modified sinus wave” in the spec sheets. Modified sinus wave is a square wave!! Creative advertising... My 1-4 minute timer http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-CAP-Preset-Cycle-Timer-(1-On--4-Off)-NFT-1E refused to work with that kind of UPS. It turned the pumps on and never turned them off. You can get a sinus wave UPS but they cost much more. So unplug your power and test your system before going for vacation.
I build by own simple timer with 555 circuit and set it to 1 min ON, 5 min OFF and it loves the square wave...
I would like to comment on UPS running timers and pumps. Majority of UPS units output square wave not sinus wave. Do not be fooled with “modified sinus wave” in the spec sheets. Modified sinus wave is a square wave!! Creative advertising... My 1-4 minute timer http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-CAP-Preset-Cycle-Timer-(1-On--4-Off)-NFT-1E refused to work with that kind of UPS. It turned the pumps on and never turned them off. You can get a sinus wave UPS but they cost much more. So unplug your power and test your system before going for vacation.
I build by own simple timer with 555 circuit and set it to 1 min ON, 5 min OFF and it loves the square wave...
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bro! This is a really good tip. I know what you're talking about here. I bought an inverter for my motor home so I could run normal appliances off the batteries. I had an old cheap Wally special that I tried but it had a fucked up square-wave and caused all kinds of funky stuff with the LCD TV. Laptops and other electronic devices don't like that shit either. So I had to go out and buy an expensive inverter that put out a nice clean sine-wave.
I could be wrong but the think the nice UPS's put out a normal sine-wave. The same concept also applies to generators. That's why I always recommend the Honda generators for your home and not those loud, cheap commercial varieties. You may think you're getting a good deal but as soon as all the neighbors start complaining you'll think different. The Honda's put out a nice clean sine-wave and are made for electronic devices. The EU1000i is the choice for small applications. It will work for pumps and maybe your TV/Computer but it won't run a big light. They do make bigger generators though. I had an EU3000I for years that I used with my camper. It was big enough to run the A/C, TV etc... at the same time. Super quite and efficient too. A 2000 watt generator would run 1-light and all your pumps forever (with enough gas)
Thanks for the input bro!
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1947 Boy
Member
Stink you are correct, the nice UPS's output a normal sine-wave. Here is an example of a few nice ones:
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=cyberpower+ups+pfc&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=28510159346&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9929046631202857647&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_9o7fhjxua5_b
It should say "pure sine-wave or adaptive sine-wave.
There is one more thing that we growers should be careful about - it is the radio interference from grow lights. Turn on your radio on AM and you will be surprised what you can hear. But the thing is that not only you but your neighbours as well. A pissed-off neighbour can find your grow site quite easy with a small portable radio. One day I got a bad interference that went on 18 hours per day. I knew right away that I have a grower nearby running veg. Within 2 hours I located his place. There is a quite easy solution suppressing the interference using RF filters before and after the ballast. I can post links to "grow light interference fix" sites if anyone is interested.
I cannot figure out how to correctly reply to a post... like having that green bar on the beginning with "StninkBud said:".... Help is appreciated.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=cyberpower+ups+pfc&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=28510159346&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9929046631202857647&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_9o7fhjxua5_b
It should say "pure sine-wave or adaptive sine-wave.
There is one more thing that we growers should be careful about - it is the radio interference from grow lights. Turn on your radio on AM and you will be surprised what you can hear. But the thing is that not only you but your neighbours as well. A pissed-off neighbour can find your grow site quite easy with a small portable radio. One day I got a bad interference that went on 18 hours per day. I knew right away that I have a grower nearby running veg. Within 2 hours I located his place. There is a quite easy solution suppressing the interference using RF filters before and after the ballast. I can post links to "grow light interference fix" sites if anyone is interested.
I cannot figure out how to correctly reply to a post... like having that green bar on the beginning with "StninkBud said:".... Help is appreciated.
1947 Boy
Member
Hey Stink, I have a question for you. You mentioned that your room ambient is 85 degrees and your nuts 68. How is that possible? When I started my first grow I started my nuts at 68 and next day it was 77. My room ambient was 77 as well. I was not ready for that (no water chiller) and root rot followed.
Do you keep your totes on the concrete floor?
Do you keep your totes on the concrete floor?
Boosted 95z
Active Member
Worst comes to worst for you, get some plain water bottles and freeze 4 or 5 of them at a time and change them out every 3-4 hours. I have to do that with our cloner every damn time still. My Res however stays 70-71, and room temp is never over 75, but I don't have co2 yet either. My res sits with towels around it to make sure nothing splashes on the floor, but nothing special beyond that to keep it managed.
The timer makes life so much easier with managing any sort of res heat issues.
The timer makes life so much easier with managing any sort of res heat issues.
1947 Boy
Member
Thanks Boosted. First, I saved my plants (I had only 3 small ones from seeds). Then I lowered the tote and placed it on the concrete floor. I gained a couple of degrees but still the nuts were 75. Then I built a water chiller using a Peltier module. It worked but not enough. The nuts still 73 degrees. I was throwing in frozen nuts (ice cubes), then frozen water bottles... and while fooling around I was hit with a second root rot. I was really pissed off and built a serious water cooler. Now I can freeze the roots if I want to. I keep the temp of nuts 66 degrees. I saved the girls again and they are doing great. Tomorrow is time to change the nuts and I will add H2O2 just to be on safe side.
How long H2O2 stays active in nuts?
I will post a few pictures later this week about my setup and my girls.
StinkBud
Well-Known Member
I keep my room at 78 degrees. I've tried temps all the way to 90 though. The water gets way too warm and the plants run like a fucking fat boy after a pork chop. Lower temps (60-70) slow the plant growth. 77.8675309 is actually the perfect temp and if you don't believe me google 8675309...
If your room is under 78 your water will be under 68. It's actually perfect when everything's dialed in. Humidity is the only other thing you need to watch. You want the plants to transpire water. That's how they uptake water, nutes, O2, etc... They don't have a heart to "pumpadajuice" so they have to rely on pressure. As water transpires from the leaves it creates a low pressure that draws water up the veins. So you want the room to be a little on the dry side.
H2O2 - is pretty unstable and breaks down quickly. Whatever it's going to kill it does it right away anyway. I don't use it myself.