Gro-Kashi & Gage Green Probiotics

hyroot

Well-Known Member
not true but close . the real recipie is not tightly held at all . i use it with each grow for the last 2 years and am finally getting fruiting bodies of mycillum in between grows ....
here is the OG recipie from the creator ... your welcome ..lol..via leadsled from thcfarm :)
Beyond Bokashi Ancestral Fermentations Workshop

By Alan Albin Adkisson

Dry Ingredient List:

* Red Wheat 5 gallon

* Azomite 1 cup

* Sea+Real Salt 1 TBSP

* EM Super Cera 1 TBSP 


Liquid Fermentation Ingredient List (plus 1/5 teaspoon EM Super Cera)

* Water 2.5 Gallons (spring water or other non chlorinated, cloromine free water)

* Black Strap Mollasses 2.5 Oz

* Organic Beet Root Juice 2.5 Oz

* Youngevity btt 2.0 organic 2.5 Oz (dry, but mix with your water)

* EM-1 Microbial Innoculant 2.5 Oz

Start potentizing the water you want to use.

I hope I said that right. It is the stirring method used in biodynamic farming or in Dr Emotos work. I use this old ice hash machine. It is perfect. 2.5 gallons warm spring water blessed up with a 1/2 teaspoon EM super cera powder. If you don’t have a ice hash maker, stir the water clockwise for 15 seconds, then counterclockwise, repeat for 5 or more minutes.

Now, every minute or so of mixing, add a liquid ingredient. First the 2.5 oz. Mollases, then 2.5 oz. Beet Root juice, then 2.5 oz. BTT 2.0, lastly 2.5 oz. EM-1. Add the EM-1 last. Once you have your base liquid mixed you can prepare your dry ingredients.

Now for our dry components.
We are going to do a five gallon mix. 1 cup azomite
 1 tablespoon EM super cera
 1 tablespoon mixed sea/real salt.

Stir them up in the cup.

Mix up your five gallons red flake wheat bran with your dry mix. The azomite is an incredible anticaking agent also. Labor saver.
Now you will need 2 1/2 gallons of the liquid fermentation prepared earlier to mix up with your dry mixture.

(if you want to make bigger batches just keep repeating this process till you have finished your desired amount)

Mix it up like bread. Knead it until you find no dry pockets.

Transfer this now to your fermentation barrel.


Continue to fill your barrel until it is about 7/8 full and packed. I use a barrel liner and at the end I put a loose twist tie on the bag.
Then we install the air tight lock ring on the barrel. I have installed an anti siphon valve as a cheap pressure release and put a balloon over that so I can tell when my fermentation is complete. About ten days. You can also use a larger bag tied off over your barrel/bucket and wait for it to puff up a little to see that the fermentation has taken place.

Ten days later this is what it should look like when you open your barrel. I wish you could smell this.

Stomp (Contractor bag lines the barrel)

Now we are going to put that fermented Gro-Kashi thru this 1/4 in screen onto a hay tarp out in the sun to dry.
We gonna rake it and take care of it like a fine coffee bean or better. If the weather is bad you can use a batch grain dryer or rent one from a farmer.

Hey everybody. The black tarp makes it easy to gather up when it is dry. I am trying to figure out the perfect moisture level currently. I think that you can over dry it.

You do know azomite takes forever to break down and has alumina in it. No Bueno
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
You do know azomite takes forever to break down and has alumina in it. No Bueno
i use basalt and oyster in my containers . that is the actual grokashi recipie from the founder alan . not my recipie ...
azomite bad for ya ?? meh its got about 1/100th the amount of 'alu" that perilite does or pumice for that matter ....lol....keep the ph abouve 4 an you should keep the "AL" out of suspention ....
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Fermenting is awesome.
Plants love fermented extracts.
FPE'S are immediately bio - available.
Any fermentation locks in much higher nutritional value of the originally sourced addittions.
Probiotic attributes and lots of enzymes and yeasts. Contains purple non - sulfur bacteria which enhance photosynthesis.

I love it and don't use anything else. I make all my fertilizers, enzymes, pesticides and feed my worms via EM1.

Ever seen a purple hued composting worm with a metallic rainbow to its body. Mine are.... and reproducing like I've never seen before. Food is very very quickly eaten and the worms are very strong. When they flip and twist, when i piss them off by disturbing them, they can actually jump of flip inches away. Only a healthy worm could move like that, and with such power too.
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
i use basalt and oyster in my containers . that is the actual grokashi recipie from the founder alan . not my recipie ...
azomite bad for ya ?? meh its got about 1/100th the amount of 'alu" that perilite does or pumice for that matter ....lol....keep the ph abouve 4 an you should keep the "AL" out of suspention ....
Dr Higa is the founder of EM1 and bokashi is ancient from japanese kimchi farming
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
Dr Higa is the founder of EM1 and bokashi is ancient from japanese kimchi farming
this thread is about GROKASHI not BOKASHI ....
GROKASHI is a off the shelf pre packed product , made for plant use .
i am aware and use em from bioterra via dr higa, as i have told you before in another thread ....lol...
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Fermenting is awesome.
Plants love fermented extracts.
FPE'S are immediately bio - available.
Any fermentation locks in much higher nutritional value of the originally sourced addittions.
Probiotic attributes and lots of enzymes and yeasts. Contains purple non - sulfur bacteria which enhance photosynthesis.

I love it and don't use anything else. I make all my fertilizers, enzymes, pesticides and feed my worms via EM1.

Ever seen a purple hued composting worm with a metallic rainbow to its body. Mine are.... and reproducing like I've never seen before. Food is very very quickly eaten and the worms are very strong. When they flip and twist, when i piss them off by disturbing them, they can actually jump of flip inches away. Only a healthy worm could move like that, and with such power too.
That's pretty dope. How do you harvest worm castings? I use MOSTLY african night crawlers because they poop on the surface. This way i just scrape the poop to one side of the bin, wait an hour, and shovel into a bag. I may have 3-4 worms per 5 gal pail of castings. I've heard the red wiggler has to be baited into a sack with food and then the entire bin is harvested.
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
this thread is about GROKASHI not BOKASHI ....
GROKASHI is a off the shelf pre packed product , made for plant use .
i am aware and use em from bioterra via dr higa, as i have told you before in another thread ....lol...
Ah sorry. Ill make some grokashi to remedy the wounds i have inflicted upon this thread and calm the upset sprites.
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
Ah sorry. Ill make some grokashi to remedy the wounds i have inflicted upon this thread and calm the upset sprites.
oh just trying to stay on track here . as the OP is asking for recipies and info about grokasi and its use . not another thread of wankers showing how much they know about fermenting garbage ....
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
That's pretty dope. How do you harvest worm castings? I use MOSTLY african night crawlers because they poop on the surface. This way i just scrape the poop to one side of the bin, wait an hour, and shovel into a bag. I may have 3-4 worms per 5 gal pail of castings. I've heard the red wiggler has to be baited into a sack with food and then the entire bin is harvested.
I do have to bait them, but I don't "up stack" my farm. What I mean is that all the trays have food. And because I have two different worms, (Canadian night crawlers and red wrigglers) I have to treat both. Canadians prefer higher carbons whereas reds go for the greens.
I like to harvest multiple trays but I'm always just grabbing surface casting. I don't bury my food either, but rather just dump it in and cover with burlap. The trays are all dark and the worms don't care about feeding from underneath the food source. They have feeding freenzies and completely inhabit the food source. They especially love avacado. I half the avacado and remove the seed. Within days it's completly hollowed out and holds probably 500 worms in each.
But back to your original question on how do I harvest worm shit. After I'm happy with the amount of castings in each tray, then I'll starve them for a little bit so they futher refine their castings. Then I'll feed the top tray and they migrate to it. After 1 or 2 weeks to allow a successful migration up top, then I'll screen the lower trays for eggs and bag up the black gold.
this thread is about GROKASHI not BOKASHI ....
GROKASHI is a off the shelf pre packed product , made for plant use .
i am aware and use em from bioterra via dr higa, as i have told you before in another thread ....lol...
GROKASHI relies on the exact same principle as BOKASHI.

If I take a shit and wipe my ass from front to back is it the same as back to front?
The act of shitting still happened, just like the act of acidification and fermentation which ultimately results in nutrient assimilation and renders orgainics material into a bio avaiable molecular form known as cations and anions. Some humic and fulvic acids are created but whichever method one chooses, it's still relying on the fundamental fermentation.
Apples and oranges-
 
Last edited:

Joedank

Well-Known Member
i ment there is no garbage aspect to this idea from allen . just plant goodies ... bokashi is a whole diffrent beast and the first step to my worm castings ....
the recipie i like the most as a spray for the top of soil and leaves .
4 gallons water with 1 hour ferment time
1C grokashi
1t succanate (rapunzel is what i use )
1T fermented cannabis BIM mix .
i even try to move top dressing and move it back so the BIMs can get a hold ...
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
I do have to bait them, but I don't "up stack" my farm. What I mean is that all the trays have food. And because I have two different worms, (Canadian night crawlers and red wrigglers) I have to treat both. Canadians prefer higher carbons whereas reds go for the greens.
I like to harvest multiple trays but I'm always just grabbing surface casting. I don't bury my food either, but rather just dump it in and cover with burlap. The trays are all dark and the worms don't care about feeding from underneath the food source. They have feeding freenzies and completely inhabit the food source. They especially love avacado. I half the avacado and remove the seed. Within days it's completly hollowed out and holds probably 500 worms in each.
But back to your original question on how do I harvest worm shit. After I'm happy with the amount of castings in each tray, then I'll starve them for a little bit so they futher refine their castings. Then I'll feed the top tray and they migrate to it. After 1 or 2 weeks to allow a successful migration up top, then I'll screen the lower trays for eggs and bag up the black gold.

GROKASHI relies on the exact same principle as BOKASHI.

If I take a shit and wipe my ass from front to back is it the same as back to front?
The act of shitting still happened, just like the act of acidification and fermentation which ultimately results in nutrient assimilation and renders orgainics material into a bio avaiable molecular form known as cations and anions. Some humic and fulvic acids are created but whichever method one chooses, it's still relying on the fundamental fermentation.
Apples and oranges-
oh man you really gave me a softball here . for a guy who knows about microbes you say wiping front to back is same as back to front ? now what if i am a woman ?? ;) back to front is asking for trouble kinda like using a 10$ a lbs ammendment to ferment garbage...
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
oh man you really gave me a softball here . for a guy who knows about microbes you say wiping front to back is same as back to front ? now what if i am a woman ?? ;) back to front is asking for trouble kinda like using a 10$ a lbs ammendment to ferment garbage...
Lmao. All in good fun brother.
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
I do have to bait them, but I don't "up stack" my farm. What I mean is that all the trays have food. And because I have two different worms, (Canadian night crawlers and red wrigglers) I have to treat both. Canadians prefer higher carbons whereas reds go for the greens.
I like to harvest multiple trays but I'm always just grabbing surface casting. I don't bury my food either, but rather just dump it in and cover with burlap. The trays are all dark and the worms don't care about feeding from underneath the food source. They have feeding freenzies and completely inhabit the food source. They especially love avacado. I half the avacado and remove the seed. Within days it's completly hollowed out and holds probably 500 worms in each.
But back to your original question on how do I harvest worm shit. After I'm happy with the amount of castings in each tray, then I'll starve them for a little bit so they futher refine their castings. Then I'll feed the top tray and they migrate to it. After 1 or 2 weeks to allow a successful migration up top, then I'll screen the lower trays for eggs and bag up the black gold.

GROKASHI relies on the exact same principle as BOKASHI.

If I take a shit and wipe my ass from front to back is it the same as back to front?
The act of shitting still happened, just like the act of acidification and fermentation which ultimately results in nutrient assimilation and renders orgainics material into a bio avaiable molecular form known as cations and anions. Some humic and fulvic acids are created but whichever method one chooses, it's still relying on the fundamental fermentation.
Apples and oranges-
oh just trying to stay on track here . as the OP is asking for recipies and info about grokasi and its use . not another thread of wankers showing how much they know about fermenting garbage ....
Isnt fermenting "garbage" why it's such an economical method? Rhetorical question. Cuz obviously i have my own methods for my own location and climate. Is it really 10$ a bag? Fuck me. i just saw its 50-70$ for a kit! I got in the wrong business lol

Idk why the fuck i tagged two people my b
 

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
i use basalt and oyster in my containers . that is the actual grokashi recipie from the founder alan . not my recipie ...
azomite bad for ya ?? meh its got about 1/100th the amount of 'alu" that perilite does or pumice for that matter ....lol....keep the ph abouve 4 an you should keep the "AL" out of suspention ....
Yeah, the Azomite is funny when you consider the Al in deodorants that gets used every day or so.

Worry about Al releasing in a pH that would kill the plant first and then go and schmere a bunch in the pits. Makes perfect sense. LOL

Wet
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the Azomite is funny when you consider the Al in deodorants that gets used every day or so.

Worry about Al releasing in a pH that would kill the plant first and then go and schmere a bunch in the pits. Makes perfect sense. LOL

Wet
I'm under the same impression with azomite. I mean, I was a kid once, and we use to smoke out of tin foil pipes. We had no idea what it could lead to. Now all the deadly shit in cigarettes, I'm sure causes or helps induce alz. The reality of it is, cannabis has been proven scientifically to promote the production of healthy brain cells. This equates to more healthy and properly functioning brain cells and transmiters. Not to mention the extensive development of CB1 and CB2 receptors, focused mainly in the central nervous system and immune system. These are the cortex of life within us humans. If they fail, inevitably we do also.
I've been a heavy user of cannabis since I was a 12. I'm an old man now. And healthy as a fucking bug in a rug. Every year that passes get better. Idk, I think there's some health nutz out there and it's a debatable topic as far as long term saftey, but again.... why the fuck are we consuming cannabis in the first place?!?!?! Lol
 

elkamino

Well-Known Member
I've been a heavy user of cannabis since I was a 12. I'm an old man now. And healthy as a fucking bug in a rug.
So is that 4 decades of use? And "use"... do you mean "smoke"? As you note long-term heavy use seems like it could include some negatives with the positives, and lots of folks switch to vaping or edibles as they age, although I haven't. So just curious how smoking flowers for decades affects others. I'm a near-daily flower smoker, have been for 20some years, and don't see that changing soon. I'm healthy, athletic, love running around the mtns and weigh just 5# more than I did when I graduated high school in '90... whatever that's worth. My body's beat-up sure, but that's not canna-related and I still get after it. Considering how much smoke I rgularly put in my lungs I'm surprised I really don't have any cardio issues at all, glad to hear you're healthy a a bug grandpa! :joint:
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
So is that 4 decades of use? And "use"... do you mean "smoke"? As you note long-term heavy use seems like it could include some negatives with the positives, and lots of folks switch to vaping or edibles as they age, although I haven't. So just curious how smoking flowers for decades affects others. I'm a near-daily flower smoker, have been for 20some years, and don't see that changing soon. I'm healthy, athletic, love running around the mtns and weigh just 5# more than I did when I graduated high school in '90... whatever that's worth. My body's beat-up sure, but that's not canna-related and I still get after it. Considering how much smoke I rgularly put in my lungs I'm surprised I really don't have any cardio issues at all, glad to hear you're healthy a a bug grandpa! :joint:
I've always consumed it mainly by smoking in my early years. Only about 6 years ago did I start the edibles and such. I'm not much of a runner, never have been. I used to run alot back when I was in the sevice, but that's 20 years ago. I suppose I probably should start jogging or something.
The only con I can think of from smoking is the smoke itself. But when you add up all the chemicals, the majority are medicinal. Sure there's some carcinogens but any more than a camp fire could offer?
 

4ftRoots

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the Azomite is funny when you consider the Al in deodorants that gets used every day or so.

Worry about Al releasing in a pH that would kill the plant first and then go and schmere a bunch in the pits. Makes perfect sense. LOL

Wet
I do not wear deodorant thank you very much :P And I am the biggest aluminum conspirator to ever reach these forums lol. I also use dr bronners soap. I'm consistent so luckily I feel have a reason to be picky.
 
Top