Greengenes Apache AT600 Garden- Blackberry Kush

It's about time to get this thread going. They are ready to flower and ready to show. Let's see what this light can do.

Here's the run down...

Plants- 16 blackberry kush clones

Space- 4x4 tray with a screen(3" squares). The full room is 12'x7.5' so there is room, plans ,and the lights to expand later.

Light- Apache at600

Medium/container- 3gallon fabric pots with 1:1 mix of super soil and roots organic potting...fully mixed together.

Nutrients/Supplements- Organic teas and seaweeds extracts. General organics bio thrive bloom if need be.


They have been vegging for 3.5 weeks now and are ready to flip. I ran into a broad mite problem late in veg. It hit them hard but I need to flip them. I'm sure the bm's will effects them, but let's see what happens. I've put too much time into this to bail out now.

[video=youtube_share;2odie4kvFok]http://youtu.be/2odie4kvFok[/video]

Looking great, amazingly clean, perfect net.

Blackberry kush always has a special place in my heart, i love the strain.

Wish you well on this grow, you got your shit on lock mate!!

Grat video, as always great info

FJG

Im glad to see you scrogging brother! shit takes time but it is the way to go.

You have it mounted anywhere?

Great video. Nice scrog. The deficiency looks like potassium and iron and possibly zinc. Kelp meal will cover all that. Do a foliar and bubble a kelp tea and water with that. Top dress 1/4 cup of kelp meal per plant then top dress with worm castings. then water with tea.

Super soil has to cook for the potassium and iron to be available. Sub doesn't add any. He lets the kelp and coco break down that's already in the roots organic soil for the potassium. There isn't much kelp meal in roots either.

hyroot said:

The deficiency looks like potassium and iron and possibly zinc.

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Think he said it was broad mite damage...

Great setup tags... errr i mean professor....cant wait to see what the E-shine can do...

Chronikool said:

Think he said it was broad mite damage...

Great setup tags... errr i mean professor....cant wait to see what the E-shine can do...

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he said he thinks its nitrogen or cal deficiencies caused by broad mites. Mites suck up all the food so the plant can't use it plus chlorophyll. You must of not listened to that part.

hyroot said:

he said he thinks its nitrogen or cal deficiencies caused by broad mites. Mites suck up all the food so the plant can't use it plus chlorophyll. You must of not listened to that part.

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I took him to mean the damage from the broad mite LOOKS like a cal-mag or nitrogen deficiency...

Not really about listening but interpretation of the words spoken...

Mites leave light green or yellow spots where they feed. The food they suck up causes deficienies because the plant doesn't get it. Either way you interpret it, he has deficiencies.

its kind of like light bleaching. The heat destroys chlorophyll in turn a lack of food which causes molybdenum and zinc and potassium def's. Or too much potassium can cause calcium def's.

Yip...looks like Broad Mite damage for sure...

No doubt you are going to get some sweet nugs! What can you use for the mites?

Broad mites are not like spider mites in any way. They don't puncture and suck like a spider mite. They have a saliva that will cause the yellowing and then death. The saliva is toxic and poisons the plants...unlike like how spider. Mites rob the nutrients from the plants by sucking.

forbid or avid are the best because they are systemic and work right away too. But oils or anything that will suffocate them works too. But you have to be on top of it and multi treatments. Also coverage is key withthenatural ways.

I meant to be preventative with forbid because I knew the professors place was a not clean, but I just grot busy and did have it on hand. Once they were there I bought some fresh forbid. But I should have been preventative and would have been ok.

If you guys remember my BBS run it had BM's...and the whole time I, and everyone said it was a deficiency. Unfortunately BM's are fairly new so protocol was unknown...but since it has become a consistent problem for many now days, there is finally some solid info of the species and ways to control them.

If its happened before. They might come back again. My brother up north had them on some outdoor I guess. you should just keep ladybugs in there on the regular. They will eat the mites and eggs and any other pest..

thats what I've been doing. I haven't had anymore spider mites since. Everytime the ladybugs start disappearing, I add a little spoon full of ladybugs on top of soil to each plant as a preventative . They can be a stored in a breathable container in the fridge. Once it gets below 64 degrees they go into hibernation. I just added more yesterday and have had the same batch of ladybugs in the fridge for almost 2 months. They are still kicking.

Subbed and ready to learn. Fuck those bm. Also if avid doesn't kill em then I would be so lost and unsure what to do also good luck on the 4x4, I checked with apache on prices for wholesale and damn they really don't show no love for retailers. But fuck its so worth it.

Rcb said:

Subbed and ready to learn. Fuck those bm. Also if avid doesn't kill em then I would be so lost and unsure what to do also good luck on the 4x4, I checked with apache on prices for wholesale and damn they really don't show no love for retailers. But fuck its so worth it.

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Come join the party. My thoughts exactly...fuckin broads! But they might be ok if they stretch past them and I keep things preventative from here out. If the girls are struggling and looking weak after the stretch i will just pull the plug and start fresh.

The code I give out to everyone used to make things whole sale price...and even then it was considered way too much by many. Now it's just decent discount. But anything helps. The results are there so like you say it is worth it. Plus pay back is 1 year in just lighting electricity. So if you have some minor patients and belief, you will be constantly saving/making money for years after. One thing to remember/take note of is Apache is actually fully UL approved and certified so they can get big growers rebates and pass inspection checks. That is something many small growers forget or don't care about. I imagine that would matter to resellers too.

Apache is a very small company, literally just 2 people and they both have "real jobs" other than AT. All the lights made made the US. They use the best parts from where ever the best are made(Nichia chips are japan , mean well drivers are Taiwan, they have a full analysis of their aluminum and it is super pure) and make it all into a light in the US. They really don't make very much per light(hard to believe but it's truth)..specially on the at600. The 120/200 has better margins but is basically a51's retail price is the same as AT's cost to produce the 120/200. Apaches major clients only want performance and saftey(UL) plus also are not worried about short term cost because they see the value the effect brings over time(and not that much time in the grand scheme).

Greengenes, I may have missed this post in an earlier thread, but what are the dimensions on the 600? Thank you in advance!

Subbed. Very excited about this light! A couple questions if you don't mind. I read on another forum that you were prototyping UVB tubes with LEDs and that NASA and Stanford run them. Do you know any more details about how they supplement with UVB? Do you plan to turn them on the last two weeks of flower or use them throughout?

green.green said:

Subbed. Very excited about this light! A couple questions if you don't mind. I read on another forum that you were prototyping UVB tubes with LEDs and that NASA and Stanford run them. Do you know any more details about how they supplement with UVB? Do you plan to turn them on the last two weeks of flower or use them throughout?

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I think I remember what thread your talking about. I was actually saying that if I were to supplement, it would be with UVB florescent tubes, not LED UVB tubes.
UVB led's are just not right/good for what we need them for. They are ridiculously expensive, don't have to correct wavelength(310nm), don't have a good output/spread combo. And if you use any secondary lenses(most good led's) they need to be specially designed to allow the uvb through. Which non of the led's offering uv have, and they mostly use 380nm which is UVA, not UVB.

UVB florescent tubes are the best option. They are what Stanford uses. You can pick up reptile uvb tubes for cheap too.

I personally(nothing to do with apache) made a prototype design that involves uvb, I have brought up a could times, but I am actually planning on making some so I haven't said too much.
There will be no UV additions to this garden. I don't need to really boost anything that uvb would add. With a good photosynthetically tuned spectrum, the plant will be maxing out its trichomes and stuff anyways. And is doing it with good health, not so much being forced to protect it's self like with direct UV. But eventually down the line in time, I will test uv additions.

Beginning of day 5. The girls are doing better. They are just starting to stretch a little. The new growth looks good and healthy. No flower signs yet, which is actually good for me, because I wanted them to recover more. They should start to show soon. I will make a video tonight.






You can see each plant starting to take shape


New growth is healthy, and no BM's. I just sprayed organocide again to keep preventative.


I did a little clean out. I will totally lolly/prune after the full stretch.

Nice set-up, looking good, Greengenes
Let's see what you can do with that super Apache.

I checked with apache on prices for wholesale and damn they really don't show no love for retailers.

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Does Apache do any sales through retailers? If not why not?