God Damn Mites!!!

KhronicKills

Well-Known Member
ok so this is my first harvest that I encountered any pests. First was gnats (nematodes took care of them) and now dreaded spider mites. Im at start of week 6 in an 8 week bloom schedule. Media is coco/perlite 70%/30%. Top dressed w perlite when I had gnat problem. Have lady bugs on order. Sprayed with the below products amd have a 5:1 batch of SM90 made up (phed properly since SM raises it like crazy) my question is can I foliar this tonight right before lights out. The pics of eggs/mites were all of same leaf I plucked after spotting white spots on a few. The runt of the room seems to have most spots, but was a runt since veg...also seems its more prone to pests because of it (shitty pheno im guessing, but back on track) if hate to lose this crop, and would love to not chop early if I can avoid it. Im also running C02 (yes its a tent but tank surprisingly lasts damn long at 1200-1400ppm) I bring that up because if the option of raising ppm's is best bet than it helps to know I do have it at my disposal. Thanks guys

Also no webs (yet) but damn a fuck load of eggs.

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
Below is the plant thats the runt and seems to have most spots on top, thus most bastards underneath.:wall::evil:
image.jpeg
 

Freddie Millergogo

Well-Known Member
Lady bugs are good with Thrips but not spider mites.
Predator mites are good but they ate finicky about temp and humidity.
One guy posting here bought Lace Wing larvae. The eggs are cheaper but take 4 days to hatch.

Bonide makes good stuff - I like their Capt Jacks Dead Bug Brew with spinosad.

This late in flower you can try Mighty Wash or Green Cleaner. Some guys here say spinosad is okay later in flower.

This guy shows a cheap way to make his version of Mite-E-Wash.
 

Kcbscrogger

Well-Known Member
ok so this is my first harvest that I encountered any pests. First was gnats (nematodes took care of them) and now dreaded spider mites. Im at start of week 6 in an 8 week bloom schedule. Media is coco/perlite 70%/30%. Top dressed w perlite when I had gnat problem. Have lady bugs on order. Sprayed with the below products amd have a 5:1 batch of SM90 made up (phed properly since SM raises it like crazy) my question is can I foliar this tonight right before lights out. The pics of eggs/mites were all of same leaf I plucked after spotting white spots on a few. The runt of the room seems to have most spots, but was a runt since veg...also seems its more prone to pests because of it (shitty pheno im guessing, but back on track) if hate to lose this crop, and would love to not chop early if I can avoid it. Im also running C02 (yes its a tent but tank surprisingly lasts damn long at 1200-1400ppm) I bring that up because if the option of raising ppm's is best bet than it helps to know I do have it at my disposal. Thanks guys

Also no webs (yet) but damn a fuck load of eggs.

View attachment 3792147 View attachment 3792148 View attachment 3792149 View attachment 3792150 View attachment 3792151 View attachment 3792152 View attachment 3792153 View attachment 3792154 View attachment 3792155
Below is the plant thats the runt and seems to have most spots on top, thus most bastards underneath.:wall::evil:
View attachment 3792156
Someone on here mentioned a pyrethrum bomb you can set off in your tent during flower, I've never used one but check into it.
 

KhronicKills

Well-Known Member
Thanks boys. Yeah Ace near me sells the Capt. Line of products. Mighty wash is in my amazon cart now and about to be checked out. Aside from water it seems to have canola oil and some pyrethrum. Sm90 has the oil but no P. I couldnt dig info up for mighty wash. It can be used foliar(ly) late into flower? Regardless ill buy it because kll add to my arsenal so I have stuff on hand should this bastards ever return. Alls I know that after chop, that tent and everything that ever touched it is getting a bath/scrub w bleach and aqua.
 

KhronicKills

Well-Known Member
Lady bugs are good with Thrips but not spider mites.
Predator mites are good but they ate finicky about temp and humidity.
One guy posting here bought Lace Wing larvae. The eggs are cheaper but take 4 days to hatch.

Bonide makes good stuff - I like their Capt Jacks Dead Bug Brew with spinosad.

This late in flower you can try Mighty Wash or Green Cleaner. Some guys here say spinosad is okay later in flower.

This guy shows a cheap way to make his version of Mite-E-Wash.
Dumb question perhaps...but if his goal is to make acidic water, why not just PH down my current water instead of rigging wires and a DC source. No problem trying it just didnt know how making it acidic that way is a benefit. Also to add some h2o2 to the ph downed mix to give the extra oxygen.
 

cat of curiosity

Well-Known Member
Thanks boys. Yeah Ace near me sells the Capt. Line of products. Mighty wash is in my amazon cart now and about to be checked out. Aside from water it seems to have canola oil and some pyrethrum. Sm90 has the oil but no P. I couldnt dig info up for mighty wash. It can be used foliar(ly) late into flower? Regardless ill buy it because kll add to my arsenal so I have stuff on hand should this bastards ever return. Alls I know that after chop, that tent and everything that ever touched it is getting a bath/scrub w bleach and aqua.
saw this about mighty wash, i've never used it, but figured i'd pass the info...

https://www.oregon.gov/ODA/programs/Pesticides/Documents/PesticideAdvisoryMightyWash.pdf

Pesticide Advisory Alert
– NPK Industries Mighty Wash and Ultimate Wash products contain pyrethrins June 16 , 2016
The Oregon Department of Agriculture (ODA) has reason to believe the products
Mighty Wash and Ultimate Wash, manufactured by NPK Industries, contain a
pesticide active ingredient not listed on the label.
ODA has tested both products and found it to contain the active ingredient pyrethrins.
Use of Mighty Wash and Ultimate Wash could cause cannabis to fail Oregon
Health Authority (OHA) pesticide testing requirements. Growers of all crops and
retailers are advised to discontinue using or selling Mighty Wash and Ultimate
Wash until further notice.
For additional information or questions, please contact ODA at
(503) 986-4635 or email [email protected]
 

cat of curiosity

Well-Known Member
Dumb question perhaps...but if his goal is to make acidic water, why not just PH down my current water instead of rigging wires and a DC source. No problem trying it just didnt know how making it acidic that way is a benefit. Also to add some h2o2 to the ph downed mix to give the extra oxygen.
it's not just about the acid, it's more about the electrolysis. slightly acidic and electrically charged (salt water electrolyte), not just slightly acidic...
 

Freddie Millergogo

Well-Known Member
DO NOT use oil based products in flower. It will make buds taste horrible.

Captain Jacks spinosad. It killed my mites in two foliar treatments and adding it to my watering a couple times for systemic.

It is safe.
View attachment 3792448
^^^^
This and trust this guy.

If you bug bomb - Dr. Doom is about 1/10 the strength of TR. TR is about double the price but much stronger:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyrethrum-Total-Release-Fogger-Oz/dp/B001H3IK74

Also Beethoven - weird that a German chemical company (BASF) would name it after Germany's most famous composer.
http://www.forestrydistributing.com/en/beethoven-tr-miticideinsecticide

A stoner guy who helped mentor me loved bug bombs in flower and had no issues with Pyrethian in bombs in flowering plants. He said the plants like it???

I prefer buying a 1 gallon sprayer and getting the concentrate of Capt Jack's. The people at Bonide are great and you can email them questions and they will respond quickly,
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
the book on the bottle says 1 day between spraying and harvest for most things, 7 for a few, more for dried stuff, if you give it at least a week between spraying and harvest you ought to be ok, the latest i've sprayed it was three weeks before harvest and i didn't notice any taste or smell from it, and i haven't developed cancer yet
i spray good once, put on rubber gloves and use one hand to hold the leaves up so you get the bottoms, wait 4 days and do it again, thats all i've ever had to do to get rid of anything so far.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
Im running autopot system. Should I put in rez or just top feed w rez mix and a bit of spinosad?

I`ve put "ant stop granules" in my res before that`s spinosad based

It smelled kinda bad but that stuff always does

I`d say 5 to 10 days max then get it out

I mean its a soil bacteria it`s normally fine but I`d flush it out the res after 2 to 10 days

in soil they say its active for a month but its not harmful to humans, it was discovered under an old rum distillery "naturally occurring soil bacteria" and it loves to dissolve insects great stuff.
 

KhronicKills

Well-Known Member
I`ve put "ant stop granules" in my res before that`s spinosad based

It smelled kinda bad but that stuff always does

I`d say 5 to 10 days max then get it out

I mean its a soil bacteria it`s normally fine but I`d flush it out the res after 2 to 10 days

in soil they say its active for a month but its not harmful to humans, it was discovered under an old rum distillery "naturally occurring soil bacteria" and it loves to dissolve insects great stuff.
awesome ty for info. My media is coco/perlite not sure if that makes a diff. But deff want to keep all pests in check for next round. This is also first time i ran a harvest in summer and these temps. I usually ran fall winter and pests were less an issue. But now its perpetual so i need to have items snd ideas in place to prevent and combat these nasty things if they pop up.
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
awesome ty for info. My media is coco/perlite not sure if that makes a diff. But deff want to keep all pests in check for next round. This is also first time i ran a harvest in summer and these temps. I usually ran fall winter and pests were less an issue. But now its perpetual so i need to have items snd ideas in place to prevent and combat these nasty things if they pop up.

Oh if you can just soak the coco with spinosad for 2 days or so that`ll do it for sure

I find watering coco with spinosad normally knocks back thrips for 1 to 6 months normally over 2 months and thrips are way harder than spider mites

I`m pretty sure you`ll nuke them

remember to spray/dip them when they are little saves getting problems later I like something systemic in veg sometimes just after they get potted up and then something a week or 2 before they go into flowering, spraying a big flowering plant is way more work then spraying veggers huh ?
 
Top