giving defoliation during flower a try

furnz

Well-Known Member
Yes, could also be the start of mag def, but it looks like the only plant showing was directly under the HPS near the top of canopy.
 

Stompromper

Well-Known Member
Probably is a little.. I vegged them a week to long and they stretched more than I expected.. lights are as high as I can get them lol.
 

furnz

Well-Known Member
Probably is a little.. I vegged them a week to long and they stretched more than I expected.. lights are as high as I can get them lol.
I feel your pain. I made my grow room when I had a buzz and instead of 6.5 feet tall I cut everything to 5.5 feet >_<.
My 600 is cranked right to the top every grow lol.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Lol what heat stress...
I don't see a problem with your garden, not any moisture stress issues to be of concern. Plants look healthy to me with only a few leaves cupped - nice job! Hard to get the complete picture under HPS though but that doesn't have anything to do with someone trying to be picky just for the sake of being picky.

This is how heat stress shows in a TFD Thai-tanic plant. Once the leaves curl up, nothing you can do to correct it..."damage" has been done. Not a real world issue if the leaves are still green and healthy, meaning, that they are still capable of photosynthesis. Happened to me almost every year - lived in an oven then - S. Texas. All of my TT that year did really well though.

ThaiTanicLongCalyxes.jpg

UB
 
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Stompromper

Well-Known Member
I don't see a problem with your garden, not any major moisture stress issues to be of concern. Plants look healthy to me. Hard to get the complete picture for me under HPS though.

This is how heat stress shows in a TFD Thai-tanic plant. Once the leaves curl up, nothing you can do to correct it...damage has been done. Not a real world issue if the leaves are still green and healthy, meaning, they are still capable of photosynthesis. Happened to me almost every year - lived in an oven then - S. Texas.

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UB
Yep I've definitely been there. I've a few plants showing deficiencies, mainly nitrogen. I gave up worrying about ph, sounds dumb, but my tap water is like 8.7 and when I was religious about phing my water I had worse problems than I do jusr throwing straight tap water on them. 4th grow with straight tap water and results have always met my expectations. And I can usually manage any deficiencies without much hassle.
 

Stompromper

Well-Known Member
Worse problem I ever have is late flower.. leaves get little brown spots on them and eventually get crispy.. but its always late enough to not really hurt the harvest at all.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Yep I've definitely been there. I've a few plants showing deficiencies, mainly nitrogen. I gave up worrying about ph, sounds dumb, but my tap water is like 8.7 and when I was religious about phing my water I had worse problems than I do jusr throwing straight tap water on them. 4th grow with straight tap water and results have always met my expectations. And I can usually manage any deficiencies without much hassle.
I hear that. You have to unlearn all the crap you learn from these forums.

There are several 'wringing the hands moments' at RIU - adjusting your water's pH (unless your doing water culture) and worrying about chlorine in it. I too used tap water like yours and the plants did fine, witness my gardens. I've done a bunch of experiments with cannabis and learning the buffering properties of soil was just one of them. Soil is a powerful buffer....leave the freaking water's pH alone.

Most folks don't think, they just follow. Blind leading the blind.

You'll also learn over time that cannabis needs more N than what is used around here. I've said it before and I'll say it again, in the Uncle Ben World of Reality, :) cannabis is nothing more than a tropical foliage plant that flowers when it's time comes. Treat it as such and you'll excel.

UB
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Worse problem I ever have is late flower.. leaves get little brown spots on them and eventually get crispy.. but its always late enough to not really hurt the harvest at all.
What foods and how much? PLEASE, NO product names! NPK and micro values only. :)

If you want/need a food with an acidifying affect rather than basic, choose one that is either all ammonical N or most. Ammonical being urea, MAP, DAP, blood meal as opposed to nitrates.
 
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Stompromper

Well-Known Member
I use Gen Hydro Maxi Bloom 5-15-14 as a Lucas Method, 1 tsp per gallon in soil every 3rd watering. Thats as much as I can tell you at the moment.
 

Stompromper

Well-Known Member
Ive had very food results with this. But I like Hydro Research Veg+Bloom even better. Have to get it online though.

I obviously like fast and easy as long as the results are good. And strain dependent can usually Average close to 3/4 gpw
 

Growerguy420

Active Member
I use Gen Hydro Maxi Bloom 5-15-14 as a Lucas Method, 1 tsp per gallon in soil every 3rd watering. Thats as much as I can tell you at the moment.
Being a longtime member of the UB school you have too low N. Get a more balanced nutrient like Jacks Classic Citrus Feed. Don't need to use bloom specific nutrients to get large nugs.

UB I tapped back out last week but I see you are still going at it here...
 

Growerguy420

Active Member
I dont use it because its a bloom feed, I use it because it coincides witb the Lucas Method, or KISS...
Whatever works for you, I'm just letting you know what UB is going to say, you did ask for his advice, I'm sure he will echo the same response shortly...your nitrogen is too low that's why your leaves are dying...I don't think there is anything simpler than jacks citrus feed. 1/2 to 1 tsp per gallon depending on the pheno and size of the plant.
 

Stompromper

Well-Known Member
Im always open to different feeding regimes. Ive stuck with this because its simple and it works. If theres a better one part nute Im game to try it. But check out Veg+Bloom that stuff is awesome.
 
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