giving defoliation during flower a try

i dont want to argue but i read in hightimes this month about pruning and how a fan leaf starts to be less enficent about half its age and the less energy it makes and should be pulled so the real big fans leafs which most times are the oldest should get culled i think 20 little new leaves is better then 1 big ass one but please no smart ass comments, i stop posting here cause of that, i argue enough aThis t home and come on here to learn and chill not fight
Now I haven't heard this. But that would def support defoliation as a good technique. I want to read that aticle do you have a name for it so i can google it up? I think defol has a lot of advantages little as well as big advantages.
 
Really. Roots are made by the leaf? I can't grow roots without green? Your full of shit. You know nothing about plants. Auntie B is having a vapor lock and needs some oxygen.
You have these people baffled with bullshit. Your reasoning skills are useless. Like tits on a bull. I can grow roots on a stalk with no leaves. I can grow roots with no light. And if you actually read something, other then your own delusions, you would know the roots support the top and determine the size, shape and density of the top.
Not to mention you ignorance using no spin paint. Moron. And it just leaves a layer of soil that prohibits root growth and they spiral on the inside of that. I've seen them used 30 years ago. And was explained why they aren't used in fruiting plants. Guess you missed that page. Again if you missed the point, you're a moron!
no shit!!!! during germination the seed roots lightlessy; in the seedling stage root growth outpaces canopy growth because roots are not light dependent.
 

stankyyank

Active Member
"I believe....." Again, lots of feelings (conjecture), no facts.

That cheesey bunch over at High Times needs to get one of these and quit writing shit to sell magazines.

http://www.agriculturesolutions.com/products/crop-soil-and-water-testing/nitrogen-meters/atleaf-digital-chlorophyll-meter-with-software-detail?gclid=CKKwqd-bwMECFYI7Mgod0kAAKQ

atLEAF+ Chlorophyll meter is a powerful, handheld, easy to use device for noninvasive measurements of the relative chlorophyll content of green leaf plants. Chlorophyll content can be an indicator of the plant’s health and Nitrogen uptake levels.

Enjoy your bro science.

Uncle Ben
Thanks for the comment. I was offering my two cents, not yours. And it is fact that small leaves are sinks until a certain point of maturity.You already knew that... but for others: http://www.scri.ac.uk/scri/file/annualreports/1999/08SINKSO.PDF

And for those that don't want to spend $250... often times one can look at a healthy leaf and compare it to a non-healthy or aged leaf and see an obvious difference in color. We see light not absorbed by the plant as color. It should seem obvious that in poor health, or age (leaves don't last forever), this color change reflects a loss of efficiency. It's no longer absorbing the same spectrum's and this is evident in the color change.
 

harris hawk

Well-Known Member
If you want to defoliate in flower stage -wait till week four (4) then remove all the fan leaves - plant has no use for them after week 4 - then remove any other leaves that block light to buds as weeks go on (don't remove to many at a time, to help lessen stress on plant
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Auntie B thinks others can't grow. She thinks she knows all. So what's wrong with these? Why don't you have pics to show? That's right, she talks, not grows. And when she grows, she grows leafs. She fixates on the leaf. View attachment 3278838
Been posting pix for 15 years. Where have you been shit-fer-brains?

I've seen those plants and they have issues, namely loss of lower leaves, bare trunks. For starts, when you upcan bury the trunk as much as you can to induce root output all along the trunk.

FYI, root tip pruning is done by using air and light correctly. Both RootMaker and RootBuilder use the same principles and basic design - they direct the roots to outside the pot whereby the root tip is terminated inducing a fibrous rootball. Again, it is not as efficient as chemical root tip pruning. If you've EVER been in a greenhouse that uses wet pads/fans to cool the ambient air you've probably noticed that most if not all of the annuals sitting on benches have roots growing out of the drainholes, in open air, many hanging a foot long. I've done both for years and hands down latex containing copper hydroxide painted on the inside and bottom of conventional pots is the only way to go.

I thought root production was your expertise....or at least that's what you were thumping your chest and crowing about.

UB
 
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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
And for those that don't want to spend $250... often times one can look at a healthy leaf and compare it to a non-healthy or aged leaf and see an obvious difference in color.
Yeah, but most of these dumbnuts won't hesitate to spend $250 on an AN or Humboldt snake oil, bloom food, that's a waste of time and money. What's up with that?

I am a professional grower. As professionals my network of friends use many methods of monitoring their stuff, most of it is high tech. Some of those methods is the chlorophyll meter, leaf petiole analysis (very important), soil moisture monitoring for field transpiration journaling regarding irrigation, etc. The latter uses probes placed at different locations and depths with info sent to a weather station such as the one I have - Davis Instruments Vantage Pro II.

I doubt if any one in this thread even owns a light meter but not to worry! Everyone's a freakin' expert when it comes to light and plant processes.

I have to laugh.....:bigjoint:
 
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Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
If you want to defoliate in flower stage -wait till week four (4) then remove all the fan leaves - plant has no use for them after week 4 - then remove any other leaves that block light to buds as weeks go on (don't remove to many at a time, to help lessen stress on plant
I rest my case......

sheesh:wall:
 

J.Mike

Member
Yeah, but most of these dumbnuts will spend $250 on an AN or Humboldt rocket fuel or bloom food that's a waste of time and money. What's up with that?

I am a professional grower. As professionals my network of friends use many methods of monitoring their stuff, most of it is high tech. Some of those methods is the chlorophyll meter, leaf petiole analysis (very important), soil moisture monitoring for field transpiration journaling regarding irrigation, etc. The latter uses probes placed at different locations and depths with info sent to a weather station such as the one I have - Davis Instruments Vantage Pro II.

I doubt if any one in this thread even owns a light meter but not to worry! Everyone's a freakin' expert when it comes to light and plant processes.

I have to laugh.....:bigjoint:
Still laughing... you are a professional grower of what.. plants; fruits, vegi's, hay, or just bud. My grandma wasn't professional at anything but "maintained" her whole green yard, fruits, trees, shrubs, flowers, and her lawn, anytime the leaves showed deterioration, she removed them. "An ugly leaf is a bad leaf". Her greenhouse had plants 10/12 months a year in Utah. I couldn't name all the plant's outside of her house or in for that matter, when she was alive. Now her being from Holland, flowers and such, and family in horticulture, did not make her professional, but for thirty years of my life, she PRUNED, defoliated, composted the trim, and never let a "bad" leaf stay too long on her plant. All her flowering plants showcased the bloom in question, with any unnecessary leaves removed, for the bloom to fully utilize the daily sun, opening and closing, after the bloom would die, she would cut it away and continue to grow new flowers. Many in her community asked her advice, but she never spouted being professional. DIRT SEED WATER SUN and leave it alone professional; that's your advice.
First of all, You don't need dirt, Reference Egypt, B.C. Due to poor soil conditions, they would grow on decks in the nutrient rich Nile River, Yeah, your kind of boned there as growing hydro in ancient times was never thought to provide higher yields as well as less work to transport water. Assuming you KNOW this, then every post you claim based on soil grow would be false on that fact alone, as science to date has hypothesized, theorized and proven hydro/aero produces better and faster results than soil, based on nominal conditions, which supports this 2000+ year old knowledge. I am no scientist, not a professional, but I prune and maintain yards and gardens with the simple thought " an ugly leaf is a bad leaf". My plants, trees, shrubs, flowers and grass all reward me with lush green vegetation , foliage and flowers, colorful and plentiful.
But being you are always right and your way IS the highway, pull over, you are going to slow, and the OP wants the answer to a simple uncomplicated answer, which through no science save your own experience, which you are hell bound and determined to graft into our heads if not through logical statements, as well as disrespectful rhetoric(some earned) your belief.
The great things about beliefs, is that they are individual, and since you haven't presented a single case study or the equivalent, maybe it is best for this conversation to let it go. As you have already provided your "correct answer for you".
I get that you seem to be intelligent, so am I, I think anyway, But as I said before if it works for you, so be it, I get organics and natural. Not trying to make enemies here, however, much of what I have read from your and others posts shows nothing more than a difference in opinions and technique providing similar results. So in the best interest of sanity and time, I leave the ball in your court brother, This is an actual intelligence test...
 

Growerguy420

Active Member
I would t defoliate just like I wouldn't flush anything other than my toilet... both go 100% against the grain of botany common sense. Go take a college course in botany and then tell me defoliation works....here's proof you can grow all the way to the base of the stem without having to defoliate, flush or ever add one drop of bloom feed (another bit of nonsense). UB don't waste your breath
image.jpg
image.jpg
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
This ones for you UB. Extreme lollipoping...

View attachment 3279272

:bigjoint:
Dip it in melted candy apple goo and you have the perfect RIU Halloween Sucker.

Original recipe makes 15 candied suckers for the RIU newbie crowd:
  • 15 thoroughly raped plants

  • 2 cups white sugar

  • 1 cup light corn syrup
  • 1 1/2 cups water
  • 8 drops red food coloring
Directions
  1. Lightly grease cookie sheets.
  2. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine sugar, corn syrup and water. Heat to 300 to 310 degrees F (149 to 154 degrees C), or until a small amount of syrup dropped into cold water forms hard, brittle threads. Remove from heat and stir in food coloring.
  3. Holding lollipopped bud by its stick, dip in syrup and remove and turn to coat evenly. Place on prepared sheets to harden.
 
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