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Your clones look they've been overwatered a bit- I see some rosetting (small bladed leaves) and one has yellowing, necrotic leaves. Looks like you may have already taken some dead leaves off the ones that appear to be rosetting. If they have been in a flood tray, the flood level may be touching the cubes, causing the problem.my kali mist plant is like 2 months old i think and im trying to make it a mother and some of the branches have 4 nodes should i begin to clone her, or should i let her get bigger first. what yours opinion?? also heres my clones i cut they look a lil small compared to ur monsters so i think i might flower some and veg others jus to see how much bud i can get out of them. i want clones like yours
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I think watering clones is best done by hand. You can judge the watering by feel of the weight of the cube, once you're accustomed to the right weight. Keep in mind that some cubes may need more or less water than others.im in the works of getting a flood tray setup for the clones but right now im self flooding them u could say, makes sense ya the water has touched the cubes, thanks for lettin me no
yep- but you're no idiot, just inexperienced. Idiots never learn- but newbism is curable.
You'll get there. 
100 watt fluoros? Is that the actual power consumption of the lamp or the equivalent rating compared to an incandescent? Power consumption isn't the best figure to use when comparing lamps. Pays you to know how bright the thing is in lumens. The incandescent equivalence is a totally useless figure to growers.
I don't spend a lot of time talking about the mums- perhaps I should.
Grabbed the cam when doing the last batch of cuts.
The two on the left are young mums, only having had a maintenance pruning so far in their roughly 3 weeks in the veg area, when they went in as ~200mm tall clones. About 550-600mm as shown. These two haven't delivered any cuttings for clones yet, but are ready now as pictured. Check the 12mm thick mainstems- those fatties will make some nice clones. The thinner stems will be cut back to a lower node, the material discarded and new, thicker stems will shoot up to replace it all in the coming 14 days.
The two on the right have delivered several passes (perhaps 3-4 post their ~3 week veg-up time) of cuttings. Note thick, woody mainstems. These are getting a bit long in the tooth and will soon be replaced by the ones on the left. As they lose vigor, mums tend to deliver thinner stems that don't root as profusely nor quickly. They can also become too tall, such that they're up into the light before the 14 day cutting interval has passed. I say so long and thanks for all the cuttings- as they go sailing into the compost bin, which feeds my all-organic veggie patch out back just fine, thanks.
Here's the whole mob.
Pretty obviously, there's a lot more veg material there than absolutely needed to deliver 30 cuttings. I do compost a LOT of vegged material. However, I get more stems to choose from to get the best quality for clones.
With plants out of the mum area, you can see just how small it is. It was built around the tray, which (I'm guessing) is about 300mm x 900-1000mm. Covered by a 400HPS, ventilation by a thermostatically controlled 150mm axial (200CFM) fan, passive intake.
The mumzone is built in one corner of the flowering area. The tent-like walls are formed by a single piece of 250micron pandafilm thrown over a 2x4 screwed to the ceiling, with white sides outward. This assures no light leakage into the flowering area.
Thanks Again
and hopefully the branches will get thicker, ya def im gonna get a 200 mh or somethen.
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When you're raising up a clone to be a mum, nip off just the growing tip. This will force growth to divide, giving more stems. Let it veg for another couple of weeks and nip off the new growing tips on the stems that have popped up. Another couple weeks of vegging and they should be ready to donate cuttings.
Now, let's prune back the mothers.
Some stems are too small to make cuttings with on this pass. We'll take cuttings from these stems when they have developed more in about 2 weeks.
Snip off the growing tip to force growth to divide. Leave the leaves and the following nodes- these sites will develop into cloneable branches on the next pass of cuts in 2 weeks.
Mother plant pruning detail. Growing tips gone but the next nodes down are not disturbed.
Some mothers DO have 'em.(I was re-reading his brilliant posts so I had to mention him
The 100HPS is getting well down into the wimp zone, but it is still useful for raising a mum (perhaps 2 very small ones). It will still kick the pants off 100W worth of fluoros.
pardon?
Yep, it works just fine, just use 1.4x the amount you'd use for 50%, i.e. 1.4ml/litre for most applications.OtisDriftwood;854864 said:
Dr. VonDankenstine
Good news, thanks for that. I never have trouble recommending something as well-made as the AAWs. Not cheap, but you know the adage; buy well and buy once.Hello again Al, just thought I would let you know I opped for the Adjustawing
no worries, happy to help.Otis•Driftwood;855136 said:
That's dry, smokable weight. Would be a bit silly for me to cite the weight of wet bud.
Yes, I've run it on other ops in the past, though these were not my ops, rather some I was commissioned to build. It can have dramatic results, with 20-30% gains. However, for my own ops, cost and lack of need to increase the production of my op (yes Virginia, there's a such thing as 'enough') has prohibited me from installing it to date.
No, the ventilation system runs on a thermostat.
Yes, there's been a marginal improvement with Fytocell. However, I'm still really on the learning curve with the stuff. I've found that it has to be packed in the pots really rather tightly for best results. In floc only, plants in wks1-2 used to show some early symptoms of overwatering as floc is so highly absorbent. Very small plants could not soak up a significant portion of the water in the pot of floc before dissolved O2 would disspate from the water in the floc (more than 24 hours watering interval required, reducing the amt of oxygenated nutes which could be given to the small plants). Since Fytocell has a greater air content, this problem has gone away. This has led to some gains down the line; plants are more vigorous, notably in wks2-4. However, it's hard to say exactly what the Fytocell has done to yield as yet because there's been some other problems in the system related to a pH meter electrode failure and powdery mildew, both now solved, but now I'm waiting for all the plants which were in the room before I made corrections to come out the far end of the pipeline.
No, and for the prices they want for it, I won't. It's utter madness- even if it works. I made a mathematical error when I suggested several pages back that Boost would cost me $600/mo. It actually would cost $90 per application per tank or $720/mo. This is fully 4 times what I spend per month on electricity (for the whole fucking house, not just the op), which is my greatest input cost. When Canna cut the price of the stuff to about 1/10 what it is now, I'll think about it. It would cost very significantly less to install CO2, which I KNOW will get me 20-30% gains (or more!).
No, ordinary municipal tapwater is just fine for my op and the vast majority of others. 700ppm is quite a lot, though. Chances are that this is being caused by dissolved limestone (calcium), particularly if you are in an area known for 'hard' water. The calcium isn't so bad- I actually use a Ca additive. However, that level of mineral content will drive the amount of nutes you can use way down. 99 times out of 100, I'd say RO or other purification heroics are just not needed for municipal tapwater. You might be the exception.
