Fucking broad mites

Mrfootball420

Well-Known Member
I have a broad mite problem and I didn't see a thread here on the topic. I have been reading around but cant dig up a ton of info on them. Nobody seems to have a sure fire way of getting rid of them short of scraping the whole batch. I have had limited success with some spinosad that I had laying around and it kills some but seems to leave others unphased. I attached some pictures of those little bastards in action.
 

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dionysus4

Well-Known Member
wait till u finish this flower then/or kill all ur plants and clean the room/s
let ur lights run 24/7 to keep temps warm(ca also turn off exhuast if you like) for at least 9 days to 3 weeks so all the fuckers hatch and starve

start agian

this is the easiest way of dealing with broadmites I have found

or u can spend tons of cash on shit that kinda works or try predators or whatever u like and then do this in a year like i did
 

StoneySoljah

New Member
I think I have broad mites or russet mites? Not sure what the difference is? I'm in northern California and they seem to be the new epidemic. I wanted to know if anyone has had any success eradicating these little fuckers. And also do they secrete poison when they die that damages foliage? I sprayed them with normal dose of forbid and the new growth (usually where the mites hang out) turned yellowish and looks damages, I thought mabey the forbid had caused this so I laid off spraying them for about a week . I'm confused is the miticide damaging the plant or is it killing the mites and they damage the plants by secreting poison when they die? I'm really at a loss here....beyond frustrated with these microscopic pests they're like the terminators you think you kill em and they come right back ugggghh. And advice would be appreciated.
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
a. andersoni preditior mites ... they work i guess if getting broad mites is a forgone conclusion...
 

GrowerGoneWild

Well-Known Member
Heh, i'm scared of BMs I seriously have to be thinking about the clones I'm gonna get from cali. All I gotta say is I'm stocking up on multiple classes of miticides and doing tank mixes of several in a single spray, with rotation from other classes BM death cocktail! Not how I like to do things tho'.
 

StoneySoljah

New Member
I would recommended getting a 100×microscopic that's the only way you can see them. If your gonna use a heavy miticide like Avid or Forbid I would only apply Those poison once Mabey twice when you first get the clones them follow up with nuke em. Nuke em is totally safe its food grade all it is is citric acid and yeast enzymes but shits expensive you can spray up until the day of harvest. I would recommended scoping clones when you get em because nurserys are definitely selling clones with bugs. If your using the miticides like Avid only do so in veg and only as preventative...I made the mistake of using them more than twice and the BM just got resistant to it...they can't get resistant to nuke em because its citric acid burning their ass. But scope everything with a microscope because you definitely don't wanna get these fucking pests they will spread like wild fire and ruin your crop before you know it. Also they breed very quick so if you do have em spray every other day with nuke em till you don't see anymore. those fuckers won't give up so you must be diligent.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Pyrethrum TR 4.0% will kill em all. Heres a link to about the cheapest you'll find:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pyrethrum-TR-2-oz-Total-Fogger-Insecticide-Whitmire-BASF-3-pack-/381453085812?hash=item58d0602c74:g:HeEAAOxyw3NTmIeo

Gotta have a strict maintenance schedule set up to keep them gone or they can build an immunity to pesticides.
I had russets bad at one point and this is how I got rid of them for going on about 6 months now I believe:

Buy (2) 2 oz pyrethrum foggers @ .4% pyrethrum active ingredient. They are good for up to 3000 sq ft.
Dont bother buying "Doctor Doom" brand cuz they are weak @ .04% vs .4% for the Pyrethrum foggers. They are good for up to 3000 sq ft.

1. Clean entire room from top to bottom with a 10% bleach water solution. Vacuum every square inch of the room. Mop the floors with bleach water solution as well. Be sure to wipe down and sterilize ALL equipment that was in use or in the grow room with alcohol wipes or something similar..

2. Blow off a Pyrethrum fogger in your room.
*******Be sure to do this with all fans/lights/pumps/ballasts or any other electrical item that can create a spark since the foggers have a flammable propellant.
Allow 2 hours time for the fogger to settle after going off then go in the room then turn on exhaust fans and circulating fans.

3. Repeat step 1.

4. After 3 days repeat step 2 by using the second Pyrethrum fogger. Dont clean the room after the second fogger.
The reason for the second bombing after the 3rd day is due to the fact that the pyrethrum wont kill the eggs of the few that may have still lived after the nuclear assault. When the mites get bombed like that, it is in their genetics to basically hatch their eggs as a means of survival. Bomb number 2 is what kills off everything left after bomb 1. Total eradication.

From here on out I would build a maintenance routine of 1 pyrethrum fogger every 4 weeks or so and be sure to use a neem oil spray to mist entire plants top to bottom (leaf undersides included) at least once before introducing any plants into the room. Once plants have been introduced into the room you can use the neem oil spray as a preventive about 2 times a month.

The pyrethrum foggers are safe to use in a room with plants as well since the pyrethrum wont hurt the plants -but if they are placed too close to plants, the propellant will burn the leaves. Id give about 1-2 feet distance of the fogger and any plants if possible.
You can safely use the foggers up to the last week before harvest also.
DO NOT USE THE FOGGER IN A CLOSED TENT.

Been running this for many months since my russet mite ordeal that ruined all my clones and mommas. I have a thread and pics on here somewhere showing my outbreak.
I've been free of any Russet Mites since my total nuke and maintenance program.
Best of luck to you!!
 

StoneySoljah

New Member
Thanks for the info bro...I was battling them in my room but now I'm in a greenhouse trying a dep...but I'll definitely take your advice when I clean the room out..ya once you have them you have to stay on a schedule of maintenance because these fuckers are relentless. They're even worse in a greenhouse because they love the humidity. Anyone ever use Met 52 its a benificial fungi its supposed to grow on the mites and kill them..I'm thinking about trying it. I'm done using the gnarly chemical miticides the mites just survived it and became worse plus that shit is just bad to have on your plants. Call me paranoid but I feel like the government released these fucking things in medical state's to fuck up our grows...I've never seen or heard of this pest until a year ago and now it's every where...it was even in Hawaii when I was there last year...strange.
 

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
I use a combo to defeat russet mites because some of them might survive Pyrethrum but they don't survive Pyrethrum, Azatrol, No Pest Strips and the stick gunk you put on the stems. I am convinced they are gone but I still check daily I think it's been 3 months now.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
I've incorporated a sulfer vaporizer into my room since this first went down as well. Slim chance of bugs or PM in my garden. I built a DIY one and it works good after a couple mods from the original person I got the idea from. His name is PIRATE on ICMAG I believe. Instead of using a green 100W spotlight bulb, I used a 100W reptile heating element. Works perfect to vaporize the sulfer vs burning it. You dont want to burn.
 

GrowerGoneWild

Well-Known Member
I've incorporated a sulfer vaporizer into my room since this first went down as well. Slim chance of bugs or PM in my garden. I built a DIY one and it works good after a couple mods from the original person I got the idea from. His name is PIRATE on ICMAG I believe. Instead of using a green 100W spotlight bulb, I used a 100W reptile heating element. Works perfect to vaporize the sulfer vs burning it. You dont want to burn.
Any problems with sulfur getting into your flowers?.
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Actually I havent used it after week 6. No issues though from it or without it. I dont recommend using any kind of neem or oils a few days before you do the sulfer though. You dont want the stoma getting plugged up, you just want to change the ph of the environment and surfaces.
 

kachiga

Well-Known Member
I had spider more issue I used mighty wash during flower worked very well. I don't know what your type of mites you have, never heard of them. But thought I give you another option to look at.

Hope it works out for you.
 

Allan421

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info bro...I was battling them in my room but now I'm in a greenhouse trying a dep...but I'll definitely take your advice when I clean the room out..ya once you have them you have to stay on a schedule of maintenance because these fuckers are relentless. They're even worse in a greenhouse because they love the humidity. Anyone ever use Met 52 its a benificial fungi its supposed to grow on the mites and kill them..I'm thinking about trying it. I'm done using the gnarly chemical miticides the mites just survived it and became worse plus that shit is just bad to have on your plants. Call me paranoid but I feel like the government released these fucking things in medical state's to fuck up our grows...I've never seen or heard of this pest until a year ago and now it's every where...it was even in Hawaii when I was there last year...strange.
Or the cartels...
 

DiscountDan

New Member
I have a broad mite problem and I didn't see a thread here on the topic. I have been reading around but cant dig up a ton of info on them. Nobody seems to have a sure fire way of getting rid of them short of scraping the whole batch. I have had limited success with some spinosad that I had laying around and it kills some but seems to leave others unphased. I attached some pictures of those little bastards in action.
I have used s product called wipeout and it killed my russet mites problem after one application This stuff is awesome and non systemic
 

DiscountDan

New Member
Thanks for the info bro...I was battling them in my room but now I'm in a greenhouse trying a dep...but I'll definitely take your advice when I clean the room out..ya once you have them you have to stay on a schedule of maintenance because these fuckers are relentless. They're even worse in a greenhouse because they love the humidity. Anyone ever use Met 52 its a benificial fungi its supposed to grow on the mites and kill them..I'm thinking about trying it. I'm done using the gnarly chemical miticides the mites just survived it and became worse plus that shit is just bad to have on your plants. Call me paranoid but I feel like the government released these fucking things in medical state's to fuck up our grows...I've never seen or heard of this pest until a year ago and now it's every where...it was even in Hawaii when I was there last year...strange.
Try s product called wipeout it's non systemic and it'd s ready to use product. I used it and after 3 days those little bastards were dead. Best stuff on the market saved my crops
 

Allan421

Well-Known Member
Try s product called wipeout it's non systemic and it'd s ready to use product. I used it and after 3 days those little bastards were dead. Best stuff on the market saved my crops
Wipeout: Guaranteed Analysis: Sesame seed Oil ..............................7% Castor Oil ........................................3 % Inert ingredients: Fish Oil ...........................................90% Total...............................................100%

I don't see how this could eliminate a broad mite infestation with one application. I'm not calling you a liar but it seems unlikely that one shot of oils could do it. I hope they don't come back on you.
 
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