First Grow. Do they look sick? Lots of pics.

Hey all this is my first grow. Im growing 2x Lemon Walker from DNA and 2x Blue Cheese from Barneys seeds under a 315w CMH light in Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil with no admendments. They popped the dirt on Jan 12th, 16 days ago. They have looked good and stayed short. I transplanted to their final home in 5 gallon smart pots 4 days ago on the 24th. I topped one today since it looked better then the rest and was praying for the lights. I have been feeding them nothing but RO water and Some seaweed extract in between waterings. Today when I fed i added about 2ml of CalMag+, 1.5ml Seaweed extract and 1.75ish ml of Bio Marine from the General Organics line per gallon. I've been having A lot of trouble with low humidity in my tent since the beginning so I have been misting a few times A day with ro water. So there's the history... Now...A few days ago they started showing yellowing on the tips of the lower leaves, some more there others pretty much right after transplant. I'm just worrying and I may need some help. So here are some pics and please help this wary noobs mind.

The two Lemon walkers notice the yellowing on lower leaves the first two are of the the the first LW yellowing on the first set of sherated leaves and also at the tip of the first 3 finger leaf. On the second one the baby leaf (first leaves that pop from seed is completely yellow and the first and second set of sherated leaves are both yellowing. Has a little bit of Browning too. Not much..

And now the blue cheese


The setup

Please help?!

get general organics GO Box.. then youll have base nutrients plus more biomarine and calmag.. and bio weed , bio bud , diamond black , root builder.. feed with biothrive grow for 4-5 weeks.. flip to flower and use instructions on the GO Box. good to go.

The GO Box on amazon shipped to you is about 38-40$

worst thing you can do is overwater.

water then let her dry out 1-2 days and water again.

Strocat said:

get general organics GO Box.. then youll have base nutrients plus more biomarine and calmag.. and bio weed , bio bud , diamond black , root builder.. feed with biothrive grow for 4-5 weeks.. flip to flower and use instructions on the GO Box. good to go.

The GO Box on amazon shipped to you is about 38-40$

worst thing you can do is overwater.

water then let her dry out 1-2 days and water again.

Click to expand...

I have the go box. I just used those two cause I haven't started feeding fully yet due to being in Fox Farms OF i was going to start feeding nute line next feeding if they took this well. But I'm trying to figure of the yellowing and rusting spots before j start feeding.

good man.. k well are your ph'ing your water?

Maybe she just needs a little bio weed and biothrive grow.

I wouldnt worry too much about the rust spots.. sounds like calmag issue ?? but.. u r givin calmag.

i have seen camg and biomarine drop my water to like 5.3 ... I ph'd up to 6.5 and it helped

says on GO box no ph'ing needed but i tested it with a calibrated ph pen.. I was using tap water though and not RO.

I will be ph'ing the GO Box when i use it fully next grow

Strocat said:

good man.. k well are your ph'ing your water?

Maybe she just needs a little bio weed and biothrive grow.

I wouldnt worry too much about the rust spots.. sounds like calmag issue ?? but.. u r givin calmag.

i have seen camg and biomarine drop my water to like 5.3 ... I ph'd up to 6.5 and it helped

says on GO box no ph'ing needed but i tested it with a calibrated ph pen.. I was using tap water though and not RO.

I will be ph'ing the GO Box when i use it fully next grow

Click to expand...

I always ph up to 6.5-6.8. When i added the calmag bio marine and seaweed extract it exactly dropped my water down to 5.3. I phed it right back up to 6.7. Tested both with pen and ph drop test. The plants do look happy today besides the yellowing from yesterday.

Snucks said:

I always ph up to 6.5-6.8. When i added the calmag bio marine and seaweed extract it exactly dropped my water down to 5.3. I phed it right back up to 6.7. Tested both with pen and ph drop test. The plants do look happy today besides the yellowing from yesterday.View attachment 3888103

Click to expand...

Sounds like you're in good shape then. you'll be fine trust me. I do exactly the same things you do.. use ph drops and double check with pen.

If a get a little spot here or there on leaves or the tiniest bit of nute burn i really dont worry about it.. as long as it doesnt spread.

I have done 10 grows now by doing exactly what you're doing so I wouldn't worry.

Here is a nirvana blue mystic I'll be harvesting within 1 week.. Im flushing her with florakleen right now.

Your new growth on your plants looks good and thats what matters.

I have found you have a little room for error during veg and I like to work out any small kinks during veg.. that way when you switch to flower you can have a smooth flowering with no issues.

Strocat said:

good man.. k well are your ph'ing your water?

Maybe she just needs a little bio weed and biothrive grow.

I wouldnt worry too much about the rust spots.. sounds like calmag issue ?? but.. u r givin calmag.

i have seen camg and biomarine drop my water to like 5.3 ... I ph'd up to 6.5 and it helped

says on GO box no ph'ing needed but i tested it with a calibrated ph pen.. I was using tap water though and not RO.

I will be ph'ing the GO Box when i use it fully next grow

Click to expand...

When I first started using the grobox I ph'd my water. After 2 runs I quit ph'ing the water and things have never looked better. It's says it's not necessary. And I know the rain fall around here ranges from 6-9 and the outdoor organic never has issues with ph.

I vote ph issues. Pic#2 shows cupping and twisting usually from ph problems.

Snucks said:

I always ph up to 6.5-6.8. When i added the calmag bio marine and seaweed extract it exactly dropped my water down to 5.3. I phed it right back up to 6.7. Tested both with pen and ph drop test. The plants do look happy today besides the yellowing from yesterday.View attachment 3888103

Click to expand...

If I'm understanding you, your ph'ing before and after mixing. Do your mix then ph once. I usually run soil at 6.3-6.5, 6.8 would be too high for my girls. You can also check the runoff ph to see what's happened in the pots. At their age in ocean forest 5gals they shouldn't be that hungry. All in all they look like they're pulling through.

Reference books, read the plant

jaibyrd7 said:

When I first started using the grobox I ph'd my water. After 2 runs I quit ph'ing the water and things have never looked better. It's says it's not necessary. And I know the rain fall around here ranges from 6-9 and the outdoor organic never has issues with ph.View attachment 3888127

Click to expand...

I would feel weird if i added bio marine.. biothrive grow bio weed and diamond black and camg and water was like 5.2.. that is just wayyyy too low for soil grow. If thdy say do not ph.. why after adding bio bud biomarine and camg was my water 5.3?? If no phing was required wouldnt it be 6.5 everytine after adding nutes?

Not sure how soil buffers, but they've doing great for almost 3 years. I've been using only ff happy frog, azomite, mycos, and a couple scoops of worm castings. Yeah, I'm exactly at 5.3ph when I mix it, lol, I just held my breath and went for it. I think it's bc in organics you're not feeding the plant, you're feeding the micro life and they feed the plants the perfect food.

jaibyrd7 said:

Not sure how soil buffers, but they've doing great for almost 3 years. I've been using only ff happy frog, azomite, mycos, and a couple scoops of worm castings. Yeah, I'm exactly at 5.3ph when I mix it, lol, I just held my breath and went for it. I think it's bc in organics you're not feeding the plant, you're feeding the micro life and they feed the plants the perfect food.

Click to expand...

you've convinced me.. I will be growing 1 single plant in 5 gallons of ocean forest in a tan colored 5 gallon smart pot and I will not PH my mix and I will be exclusively using the whole 8 bottles included in the GO Box

of CalMag+, 1.5ml Seaweed extract and 1.75ish ml of Bio Marine from the General Organics line per gallon. I've been having A lot of trouble with low humidity in my tent since the beginning so I have been misting a few times A day with ro water. So there's the history... Now...A few days ago they stachung cư vincity quận 9;rted showing yellowing on the tips of the lower leaves, some more there others pretty much rightchung cư vincity quận 9; after transplant. I'm just worrying and I may need some help. So here are some pics and please help this wary noobs mind.

stonedtrooper42 said:

I vote ph issues. Pic#2 shows cupping and twisting usually from ph problems.

If I'm understanding you, your ph'ing before and after mixing. Do your mix then ph once. I usually run soil at 6.3-6.5, 6.8 would be too high for my girls. You can also check the runoff ph to see what's happened in the pots. At their age in ocean forest 5gals they shouldn't be that hungry. All in all they look like they're pulling through.

Reference books, read the plant

Click to expand...

I am so anal about ph. I heard the twisting was due to low humidity. My humidity at the time was 16 constant. I ph after i mix the nutes

This is then today:
Lemon Walker


Blue Cheese:

This would be an extreme case of ph twist. 16% is a bit low, But looks like they have balanced out fine.

when humidity is low

your plants drink more to replace the moisture

when plants drink more they get more food

so your plant nutrient requirements (as in ppm) goes down

think of it like eating 5 small meals instead of 3 large meals

you just transplanted 4 days ago

those plants at that size don't need any fertilizer.... fox farm is already hot on its own

to me they look over fertilized and too much N

I would feed only water until they ask for food in about 2 or 3 weeks

then add your calmag (maybe 5mls per gallon) and low ppm nutes (maybe 800ppm/ EC 1.0)


edit;
I just thought

the Fox farm soil... is that the potting soil... or the hot mix?

if its the potting soil maybe you need to do light feeds sooner than 2 or 3 weeks

but not yet... or maybe your using to much

im4satori said:

when humidity is low

your plants drink more to replace the moisture

when plants drink more they get more food

so your plant nutrient requirements (as in ppm) goes down

think of it like eating 5 small meals instead of 3 large meals

you just transplanted 4 days ago

those plants at that size don't need any fertilizer.... fox farm is already hot on its own

to me they look over fertilized and too much N

I would feed only water until they ask for food in about 2 or 3 weeks

then add your calmag (maybe 5mls per gallon) and low ppm nutes (maybe 800ppm/ EC 1.0)


edit;
I just thought

the Fox farm soil... is that the potting soil... or the hot mix?

if its the potting soil maybe you need to do light feeds sooner than 2 or 3 weeks

but not yet... or maybe your using to much

Click to expand...

The one feeding i posted was the first feeding I ever did... Besides the occasional seaweed extract. They looked happy today with no continuation of yellowing

jaibyrd7 said:

When I first started using the grobox I ph'd my water. After 2 runs I quit ph'ing the water and things have never looked better. It's says it's not necessary. And I know the rain fall around here ranges from 6-9 and the outdoor organic never has issues with ph.View attachment 3888127

Click to expand...

I know this is an old post but that “no ph” bit is for dechlorinated tap water that runs a lot higher PH than RO water. General Organics has also specifically told me per email to still check PH after adding nutrients. Just some knowledge for anyone seeing this thread.

ya.. i used to use RO water because I thought my tap was too hard (coming in close to 300 ppm) but my plants prefer tap. I know some ppl have to use RO and I know some ppl have to ph but imo both of those things can sometimes cause more problems. If your nutrients are causing ph swings then I would look into switching nutrients. I have used some of the cheapest nutrients possible and had stable enough ph using tap water.

blowincherrypie said:

ya.. i used to use RO water because I thought my tap was too hard (coming in close to 300 ppm) but my plants prefer tap. I know some ppl have to use RO and I know some ppl have to ph but imo both of those things can sometimes cause more problems. If your nutrients are causing ph swings then I would look into switching nutrients. I have used some of the cheapest nutrients possible and had stable enough ph using tap water.

Click to expand...

blowincherrypie said:

ya.. i used to use RO water because I thought my tap was too hard (coming in close to 300 ppm) but my plants prefer tap. I know some ppl have to use RO and I know some ppl have to ph but imo both of those things can sometimes cause more problems. If your nutrients are causing ph swings then I would look into switching nutrients. I have used some of the cheapest nutrients possible and had stable enough ph using tap water.

Click to expand...

I’m getting a TDS meter soon enough but I’m still just in flower week 2 on my first grow. Do you know of a good “fix” for using hard water? I would like to switch back to rain/tap water now that winter is over (Canada ) but water in this area is exceptionally hard. I’ve heard of companies that have some kind of supplement just for hard water.