First attempt at Shatter... Is it clean enough?

Is this finished? How do you know when it is?

  • Yes

    Votes: 4 80.0%
  • No

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Total voters
    5

tezzerLad

Active Member
If you keep it under 100f flavor loss is minimal ime. Just warm enough to pull the solvent out under vacum but cool enough to retain flavors.

I don't go over 90f, purge for a week. Comes out w a beautiful taste and shatters like glass
are u answering my q ?

if yes, then its the trichs that i can't understand survive all this heat, i thought drying too hot damages trichs, and the sun when it's drying.

i'm wrong aren't i ha ha !! obviously because it gets you stoned so i'm stupid yes ?
 

Mr.Goodtimes

Well-Known Member
are u answering my q ?

if yes, then its the trichs that i can't understand survive all this heat, i thought drying too hot damages trichs, and the sun when it's drying.

i'm wrong aren't i ha ha !! obviously because it gets you stoned so i'm stupid yes ?
Lol no not stupid.

This is after drying. You are extracting the thc from the trichomes heads, and then purging the solvent from the extracted goop. So yeah the trich's don't survive, but the thc does :cool:

Thc evaporates at a much higher temp
 

Runbho

Well-Known Member
T
Its good to put material for a while on a dehydrator (at 30C max) to get rid of that last bit of moisture. Makes end product clearer and improves your yield too.



That is way too short, did you flip the patty at all? Try and go 2 or 3 days min if you want the least amount of residuals possible.
Thabks for the tip. I will def let my bud sit out to dry next run. Or maybe I'll invest in a dehydrator. I still haven't tried freezing my butane cans and packed tube prior to blasting. I'm gonna try that next. I did learn that if you're blasting in high humidity (like 88% humidity) you are more likely to pull more chlorophyll resulting in a slightly darker color. Looking forward to drying it out and testing the results. Thank you to everybody who chimed in on this thread. I listen to everybody's advice!
 

Runbho

Well-Known Member
Purging for days...
Sounds crazy to me
I thought so too. But I learned I was mistaken. What I and everybody else thought was killer shatter in terms of color, flavor, potency, everything turned out to be high in residuals. You cannot tell by looking or smoking. Only a residual solvent test will truly let you know. And after talking to some veteran oil artists, I learned purging for days is the only way a dispensary will accept your product. You CAN make shatter without purging for days, but it will more than likely be over 500ppm. I shoot for under 100. Preferably under 10. I didn't get it either and I still struggle sometimes. Ha
 

Runbho

Well-Known Member
Right, I never understand why you would subject your extract to that
If it's under 100 degrees, you're preserving terpenes while increasing potency and reducing residuals. The question is... Why wouldn't you want to subject your concentrate to that?
 

Runbho

Well-Known Member
Just to give you another perspective on this question, OP....


I live in a legal state where some of the cities hold contests to see who grows/makes the best weed and concentrates. Many entrants are professionals who use state-of-the-art closed-loop systems and laboratory-quality vacuum purgers and ovens and everything you can imagine....and even the best-of-the-best of the extracts made with that type of equipment STILL show residual solvents when tested.

So, to think for even a second, that some relatively inexpensive homemade, backyard blasted BHO using the butane that comes from the aerosol cans (which contain lubricants that don't purge out) can be clean enough to use safely, then I would advise you to think again.

However, never fear...rosin tech is here! No-solvents! Mucho terpenes! Full melt! Anyone can make it -safely!
I appreciate you chiming in with your advice but I live in California and have had two batches tested by SD labs. Never said I thought butane could be purged 100%. But to assume my setup can't do what these state of the art companies do is just foolish. It's the same concept and same technology but on a smaller scale. I have essentially a small vac oven. How is this any different that what your "big guys" use. It makes me giggle when people try to say you can't make good dabs with a relatively inexpensive equipment. The product in this thread tested at 47ppm hydrocarbon residual solvents . Not quite quote what that means other than its clean, but I know it's good. That's pretty damn good if you ask me. With diligence, patience, and intelligence anything can be done. The product speaks for itself. Good product CAN be made w/out closed loop systems, in fact, many companies believe closed loop systems produce inferior quality. Look a pink house factory in Denver. (I think it's called) The supply a huge amount of rec and med in Colorado and all their stuff is tube blasted. You could give me a closed loop system but I still wouldn't use it. I would prefer N butane but vector, Newport, and Colibri and pretty damn good.
 
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tstick

Well-Known Member
@Runbho,

Even you admit that there is residual butane in well-made BHO. I don't understand why even a very low reading would be acceptable by anyone -especially when solvent-free concentrates are available. What IS the advantage of BHO over a solvent-free option? More THC? I'd rather take more dabs of a clean concentrate and get the "more THC" that way, than I would to have to accept inhaling small amounts of poison to get it.

To me, to accept 47 ppm of residual hydrocarbon solvent in something that you are planning on inhaling into your lungs is unnecessary. It's a small amount...but it's not 0% either.

Sure, some backyard blowers are going to do a better job at it than others will. There's always going to be exceptions..but you are referring to the very, very small minority, I think. My guess is that most people making the product are not concerned about it enough to use clean butane, leave it in a vac purging oven for days and ultimately get it tested. That's my perspective, anyway.
 

tstick

Well-Known Member
I appreciate you chiming in with your advice but I live in California and have had two batches tested by SD labs. Never said I thought butane could be purged 100%. But to assume my setup can't do what these state of the art companies do is just foolish. It's the same concept and same technology but on a smaller scale. I have essentially a small vac oven. How is this any different that what your "big guys" use. It makes me giggle when people try to say you can't make good dabs with a relatively inexpensive equipment. The product in this thread tested at 47ppm hydrocarbon residual solvents . Not quite quote what that means other than its clean, but I know it's good. That's pretty damn good if you ask me. With diligence, patience, and intelligence anything can be done. The product speaks for itself. Good product CAN be made w/out closed loop systems, in fact, many companies believe closed loop systems produce inferior quality. Look a pink house factory in Denver. (I think it's called) The supply a huge amount of rec and med in Colorado and all their stuff is tube blasted. You could give me a closed loop system but I still wouldn't use it. I would prefer N butane but vector, Newport, and Colibri and pretty damn good.
You made a thread asking if your run was clean enough ( Which no one can tell from looking at it, btw). I said no and now you're telling me it is clean enough....So why make the thread, then? Are you asking or telling?
 

Afgan King

Well-Known Member
Industry standard is 72 hours. I personally do 72hrs at 91° I worked for the largest concentrate company in Colorado. That's what they do and their shit destroys anything else by a mile
 

Afgan King

Well-Known Member
@Runbho,

Even you admit that there is residual butane in well-made BHO. I don't understand why even a very low reading would be acceptable by anyone -especially when solvent-free concentrates are available. What IS the advantage of BHO over a solvent-free option? More THC? I'd rather take more dabs of a clean concentrate and get the "more THC" that way, than I would to have to accept inhaling small amounts of poison to get it.

To me, to accept 47 ppm of residual hydrocarbon solvent in something that you are planning on inhaling into your lungs is unnecessary. It's a small amount...but it's not 0% either.

Sure, some backyard blowers are going to do a better job at it than others will. There's always going to be exceptions..but you are referring to the very, very small minority, I think. My guess is that most people making the product are not concerned about it enough to use clean butane, leave it in a vac purging oven for days and ultimately get it tested. That's my perspective, anyway.
I've had my full melt bubble tested and it was at 68%. If made properly I prefer full melt over shatter all day shatter is just cheap, strong, and looks nice. People see a darker full melt and don't get it. But you can feel the difference with full melt when you hit it. You never feel any discomfort at any point while taking a hit. It's the organic hash and when using Organic material bar none the best dab you can get
 

Afgan King

Well-Known Member
Here in Oregon's medical concentrates industry, we use a gas chromatograph to tell when we've met residual solvent standard, as opposed to a fixed time.
There you go. Ya it's what they started doing here in Colorado. Everything 72 hrs at 91°.
 

InkTree

New Member
I don't leave my nugs out to dry before blasting. I usually keep it bagged until ready to pack the tube. I'm going to try freezing my material next time, for I hear it's most efficient. Man, please get the heatvac kettle companion. Other companies make a similar product for a cheaper price so look around. But, this product changed my life. It's a peel and stick rubber heat pad type thing that sticks to the bottom of your vac chamber with a wire coming out of it that attaches to a digital temperature box. It goes as low as room temperature and higher than you'll ever need. It literally turns your vac chamber into a vac oven. This is my first batch of shatter because I've never had a heat source that could go low enough to properly purge shatter. With this setup, you can make any consistency. And, they sell them in various sizes so you can get the right size for your chamber. It's really badass. Love this thing. I bought an infrared thermometer to be sure and my oil is usually right within 2 or 3 degrees of my set temp. I have noticed after a long period of vac purging at 88 degrees, I temped my oil after letting air back in and it was 98 degrees in some places. What I'm getting at is if you plan on setting it and forgetting it making shatter with this setup, set your temp around 10 degrees below your desired temp. I highly suggest you buy one of these. They will blow your mind.... But, find the cheaper one. I paid $175 but you should be able to find one for around $120.
:weed:Thnx great info!
 
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