Feedback on this new grow setup?

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
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Hi guys, trying to cool this 600 watt, running 50 percent (would like to run 100 percent but it gets waaay too hot) im also trying to see if i got The airflow direction right. Pulling air through the light and up to a window. I know theres way more im missing here....i was thinkin of constructing a box to use my ac unit.i want to add 2 more lights (300 watt leds) in here.i want a lil more than 1000 watts in this room...any feedback on cooling is much appreciated, thank you
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
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Hi guys, trying to cool this 600 watt, running 50 percent (would like to run 100 percent but it gets waaay too hot) im also trying to see if i got The airflow direction right. Pulling air through the light and up to a window. I know theres way more im missing here....i was thinkin of constructing a box to use my ac unit.i want to add 2 more lights (300 watt leds) in here.i want a lil more than 1000 watts in this room...any feedback on cooling is much appreciated, thank you

idea is right but excution is off

1 your light is to close to the wall u are not getting your moneies worth
A) 4x4 footprint the 600w does....u want to have it atleast 2.5 ft away from the wall (2foot left 2 foot right makes 4 foot)

2 the ducting path has to many bends and slack in it ........all those bends and slack makes ridges in there slowing the speed down ......take them out u will see a better temp drop

3 think about changing your system .......the way u have it now is more for a sealed room set up ......if u change over to a carbon filter in the room like this
carbon filter ducting hood ducting fan ducting ejection point .......suck the hot are out of the top of the room causing the cold air to be drawl in it pass over the hot light and get dumped out

doing like that will cuase a draft but u can controll that with vents and fans .....the side bouns is if u have in lowest part of house it will build the CO2 lvls in there natural 500 600 ppm
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
Thanx for the reply, i dont have that much space in there to have the light 2 ft away from the wall. I intend to put led lights on either side, hung the same way. Switch uo the setup? Explain. Also can you explain negative pressure and all th at
 

GuyLeDuche

Well-Known Member
Any way you can turn the light 90 degrees? If the output of the light faced the exhaust hole the run would be much straighter and flow better. I agree also about maybe sticking the filter on the intake side of the light with as little duct as possible and putting the exhaust fan between the light output and the exhaust hole. I suspect blowing into the fixture is causing turbulence in the open space around the bulb potentially?
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Thanx for the reply, i dont have that much space in there to have the light 2 ft away from the wall. I intend to put led lights on either side, hung the same way. Switch uo the setup? Explain. Also can you explain negative pressure and all th at
.carbon filter ......ducting...... hood....... ducting........ fan....... ducting........ ejection point .

hegative pressuse is simple
the fact u are sucking the air out of the room causes the air outside the room want to flow in to equalize the the pressure change (air always flows in the path of least energy ......so say u have a hole on the ground and a hole up top with something blocking it ......the hole at the bottom will have a draft coming into the room as where the hole up top will have a very slight draft)
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
.carbon filter ......ducting...... hood....... ducting........ fan....... ducting........ ejection point .

hegative pressuse is simple
the fact u are sucking the air out of the room causes the air outside the room want to flow in to equalize the the pressure change (air always flows in the path of least energy ......so say u have a hole on the ground and a hole up top with something blocking it ......the hole at the bottom will have a draft coming into the room as where the hole up top will have a very slight draft)
Thanx alot again. So my grow room is about 4 x 8. Im thinking of having another ejection point at the bottom off the room. Now should thay room be forcing air in the room or pulling it out? Also ill be adding an ac unit and poss a dehumidifier. Thanx you've been real helpful
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Thanx alot again. So my grow room is about 4 x 8. Im thinking of having another ejection point at the bottom off the room. Now should thay room be forcing air in the room or pulling it out? Also ill be adding an ac unit and poss a dehumidifier. Thanx you've been real helpful

np man this is what i do ......helping other fix their troubles has made me near master lvl just need to work on genetics to claim that title

ok hot air .......think back in history class hot air balloons ......it will raise up .....ideally u want to have the carbon filter hanging in the upper part above the light hood itself

now u said a 4x8 i am thinking that looks like a basement so 7 foot ceiling to floor
4x8x7 is the area u have to control for grow ......224 cubic feet of air in that area
a 6 inch inline fan will do about 400 cfm(cubic feet a min)........about 370 with a carbon filter so that would be cycling the air out of your area nearly once every 42 sec(rough math in head)

carbon filter and inline fans should be matched to get the full life out of the carbon (to strong or to little the air will use up spots or all the carbon allowing smell to leak out)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYDROPONIC-CARBON-FILTER-6-X-18-ELIMINATES-ODORS-REFILLABLE-/161153827171?hash=item2585844163:g:tzAAAOxy4t1Sijq4

that is a refillable one........it matches close enough to be right for how it works on a 400cfm fan and the bends and all maybe 10 cfms over but will not hurt life........but after 12/15 months u just need to replace the active carbon in the filter to make it work again saving u 50 bucks on a metal work)

now if u really want to make any cooling be effective u should looking into insulted flexie ducting (it will not allow the heat to transfer back into the air as u are dumping it out)

ok u asked about a passive intake system and a active one

passive system is the simplest of the 2 as it is just a opening to allow the air to flow in ........the rule is simple u have a 6 inch ducting u need to double that and have a 12x12 inch hole to let in the air (just that simple)

active system system is the reverse of the exhaust system ........this method does allow cooler temps and keeps the walls of a tent from turning into a modern art project (with negative pressure u need stiff wall other wise suck in.....so the passive needs to be large enough to stop that or u add in a system to feed in air as fast as it is going out )......active but this needs a filter box (as u are going to completely change the air currents in your house u want the air going in to be clear of mold/fungi spores that have layered up over the drafty parts of the house ) ........the passive system allows most to settle back down before getting to area but a active system u are drawling them out a faster pace


as for conditioning the air .........with a exchange system like this u can not do it in the standard way (putting the gear in the area to control only that area).......u have to condition the air before it gets to the area ......the air that is getting sucked into the area has to be the way u want it as for it being in area the exchange is going to fast for the gear to really have any time to do anything to it

before u say i can slow down the air and give it time to work ........bad idea u have a fast moving system in a low part of the house .......this will make Co2 pool up around the plants (Co2 is a heavy gas...think oil and water with Co2 being water and Oxygen being oil) .........the standard rule is to have air exchange once every 3-5 mins for good healty plants .......i am a clear believer in overkill factor u can adjust what i have told u back down to standard rates.........but this will help controll the heat most effectivly
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
np man this is what i do ......helping other fix their troubles has made me near master lvl just need to work on genetics to claim that title

ok hot air .......think back in history class hot air balloons ......it will raise up .....ideally u want to have the carbon filter hanging in the upper part above the light hood itself

now u said a 4x8 i am thinking that looks like a basement so 7 foot ceiling to floor
4x8x7 is the area u have to control for grow ......224 cubic feet of air in that area
a 6 inch inline fan will do about 400 cfm(cubic feet a min)........about 370 with a carbon filter so that would be cycling the air out of your area nearly once every 42 sec(rough math in head)

carbon filter and inline fans should be matched to get the full life out of the carbon (to strong or to little the air will use up spots or all the carbon allowing smell to leak out)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HYDROPONIC-CARBON-FILTER-6-X-18-ELIMINATES-ODORS-REFILLABLE-/161153827171?hash=item2585844163:g:tzAAAOxy4t1Sijq4

that is a refillable one........it matches close enough to be right for how it works on a 400cfm fan and the bends and all maybe 10 cfms over but will not hurt life........but after 12/15 months u just need to replace the active carbon in the filter to make it work again saving u 50 bucks on a metal work)

now if u really want to make any cooling be effective u should looking into insulted flexie ducting (it will not allow the heat to transfer back into the air as u are dumping it out)

ok u asked about a passive intake system and a active one

passive system is the simplest of the 2 as it is just a opening to allow the air to flow in ........the rule is simple u have a 6 inch ducting u need to double that and have a 12x12 inch hole to let in the air (just that simple)

active system system is the reverse of the exhaust system ........this method does allow cooler temps and keeps the walls of a tent from turning into a modern art project (with negative pressure u need stiff wall other wise suck in.....so the passive needs to be large enough to stop that or u add in a system to feed in air as fast as it is going out )......active but this needs a filter box (as u are going to completely change the air currents in your house u want the air going in to be clear of mold/fungi spores that have layered up over the drafty parts of the house ) ........the passive system allows most to settle back down before getting to area but a active system u are drawling them out a faster pace


as for conditioning the air .........with a exchange system like this u can not do it in the standard way (putting the gear in the area to control only that area).......u have to condition the air before it gets to the area ......the air that is getting sucked into the area has to be the way u want it as for it being in area the exchange is going to fast for the gear to really have any time to do anything to it

before u say i can slow down the air and give it time to work ........bad idea u have a fast moving system in a low part of the house .......this will make Co2 pool up around the plants (Co2 is a heavy gas...think oil and water with Co2 being water and Oxygen being oil) .........the standard rule is to have air exchange once every 3-5 mins for good healty plants .......i am a clear believer in overkill factor u can adjust what i have told u back down to standard rates.........but this will help controll the heat most effectivly
Im reading all this again. And again to take it in, but this setup is actually the highest level of the house. Its a about a 5 x 9 x 7 in a room thats has about a 20 feet high ceiling, like in a penthouse/loft style. Windows are close by for ventilation.

Insulated flexie ducting, definitely at some point will be a purchase. As far as the active intake, where do i place the fan to pull that extra air?i have one exhaust system for the light, now working on the one to pull the hot air out.

Im thinkini want to buy a 8" fan, use that for the light and use the 6" fan to pull the air out.

As for the a/c. Im building a box with exhaust for the ac, gonna hang it in the room with the back part hanging out, and being exhausted.

My goal is to be able to run my lights at full strength and still keep good temps. Also i need pointers on humidty, im at high 40s, low 50s at the moment
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Im reading all this again. And again to take it in, but this setup is actually the highest level of the house. Its a about a 5 x 9 x 7 in a room thats has about a 20 feet high ceiling, like in a penthouse/loft style. Windows are close by for ventilation.

Insulated flexie ducting, definitely at some point will be a purchase. As far as the active intake, where do i place the fan to pull that extra air?i have one exhaust system for the light, now working on the one to pull the hot air out.

Im thinkini want to buy a 8" fan, use that for the light and use the 6" fan to pull the air out.

As for the a/c. Im building a box with exhaust for the ac, gonna hang it in the room with the back part hanging out, and being exhausted.

My goal is to be able to run my lights at full strength and still keep good temps. Also i need pointers on humidty, im at high 40s, low 50s at the moment
20 foot ceiling what the heck is the pics looking like that for .....20 foot ceilings are nice that is a huge heat chamber .......set up the extraction up there and the heat in the room should be controlled by cool air from the house

as for ACing the air in there it is possible with 20 feet of dead space to suck the heat up ..........u have time to condistion the air and release it back out before it would take the heat and flaot up to that lvl for extraction

a 10k btu window shaker will be more then strong enough and have power to let u build out the room later (tho u might want to have it on it own breaker so the amp drawl does not kick the breaker off during the summer time)
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
20 foot ceiling what the heck is the pics looking like that for .....20 foot ceilings are nice that is a huge heat chamber .......set up the extraction up there and the heat in the room should be controlled by cool air from the house

as for ACing the air in there it is possible with 20 feet of dead space to suck the heat up ..........u have time to condistion the air and release it back out before it would take the heat and flaot up to that lvl for extraction

a 10k btu window shaker will be more then strong enough and have power to let u build out the room later (tho u might want to have it on it own breaker so the amp drawl does not kick the breaker off during the summer time)
Its a room within a room, im explaining it wrong sorry. The room you saw pics of the ceiling is almost 7 feet high
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Its a room within a room, im explaining it wrong sorry. The room you saw pics of the ceiling is almost 7 feet high
i got what u are saying

i am telling u remove that roof on the 2nd room in the room and allow that heat to go up into that dead space of the 20 foot ceiling

u are a lucky bastard........the 20 foot ceiling is a giant hot air heat well .......setting up a extraction point high up there will control your area better then alot of ours (that huge area is just dead heat space ) your plants will stay alot cooler like that
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
i got what u are saying

i am telling u remove that roof on the 2nd room in the room and allow that heat to go up into that dead space of the 20 foot ceiling

u are a lucky bastard........the 20 foot ceiling is a giant hot air heat well .......setting up a extraction point high up there will control your area better then alot of ours (that huge area is just dead heat space ) your plants will stay alot cooler like that
this conversation with you is making me think about buying a 4x4 or 4x8 to better control my environent. i have a 2x4 but i use that for veg. The room i use now, i may use that for veg. i really want the best quality environment for my babies...that veg room would allow me to keep mothers, raise certain lights, lower others, and have space to train. i dont even use up all the space in that room for flowering
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
im also pondering a dwc/hydro setup. doing more research on that, and training to maintain a even canopy. i may throw the dwc experiment in the 2x4, and grab a 4x4 for my 5 gallon soil pots.
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
damn, now my brain going (blame the critical jack) i can run that active intake system using one fan for tents. both active intake systems. i was also pondering buying 2 more led lights. now im thinking 1 600 watt for my 4x4 tent, and one 400 watt led panel for my 2x4 tent. and my t5 veg lights in the new "veg room" formerly the flowering room. Getting a tent, hopefully i wont have to build an ac unit or any of that now like i was thinking of before
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
i do not know anything about that brand of light

if u are trying to set up the best evo for them then u should think about doing the whole room not just tents

tents are ok for controlling light .....but for u to do work on the evo in them u need to condistion the outside air before it gets into the tent

the best design ........is a sealed room with a Co2 burner and a mini split
 

Gary Ganja

Well-Known Member
i do not know anything about that brand of light

if u are trying to set up the best evo for them then u should think about doing the whole room not just tents

tents are ok for controlling light .....but for u to do work on the evo in them u need to condistion the outside air before it gets into the tent

the best design ........is a sealed room with a Co2 burner and a mini split
wish i could use that whole room for that, that would be a biiiiigg ass grow.
 
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