Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)

MrEDuck said:

I'd say if you're seeing a 300ppm spike over a week you can probably start with more like a 25% drop. What is your starting concentration and where does it climb to?
Nute companies generally advise crazy high doses...

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I start at 1100 and usually wind up around 14. I've been running a little over 10% light on the nutes as is because I've read Sensi Star is very nute sensitive. So I guess this proves what I've read about that strain to be true.

This last week I've just been topping off the reservoir with ph'd water since the girls are drinking more and I can't wait the full week to do a complete change. I topped them off 3 times this week. Did the Rez change tonight. Ppms @1400 or a little higher even after adding water a few times during the week. So these girls must REALLY like there water.

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0316064615891.html?14

Hey Sam give this a gander bro..

Be sure to read the link ( fertilizing container plants) at the bottom of the OP's first post

This might help you to understand why your plants are drinking so much water...cheers

Samcro4 said:

I start at 1100 and usually wind up around 14. I've been running a little over 10% light on the nutes as is because I've read Sensi Star is very nute sensitive. So I guess this proves what I've read about that strain to be true.

This last week I've just been topping off the reservoir with ph'd water since the girls are drinking more and I can't wait the full week to do a complete change. I topped them off 3 times this week. Did the Rez change tonight. Ppms @1400 or a little higher even after adding water a few times during the week. So these girls must REALLY like there water.

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Is that 0.5 or 0.7 scale? Even on 0.7 that's about 1.5EC which seems high to me especially for a strain that's sensitive to nutes. I'd try knocking that down to 800ppm and seeing how they do from there.

Samcro4 said:

Thanks for the link, Jointed. Gonna read that right now. And thanks for the feedback mrE.

It's on the .5 scale that I take my readings. I dropped my ppm down to 770 this week. And I will be interested to see what my readings are at the end of the week.

I am switching over to flower at the end of the week, and I am going to switch over to dynagro bloom. The nutes I have now came with my system so I wanted to use them.

But I am not going to go spend an extra 400 on additives like big bud and overdrive when HB just ran a side by side w ANs best product and dynagro won fair and square. Besides HB, alot of you other vets suggest the dynagro and it makes sense to me to follow the KISS formula.

Thanks for the help guys.​

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Two things: your ppm/EC is way too high for veg. That's what you're discussing here with the ppm rising, right? Secondly, DG bloom is only useful in hydro when used with DG grow or foliage pro. Start at 50/50, maybe scale more towards bloom as the flowering cycle progresses? Your plants will tell you what to do.

homebrewer said:

Two things: your ppm/EC is way too high for veg. That's what you're discussing here with the ppm rising, right? Secondly, DG bloom is only useful in hydro when used with DG grow or foliage pro. Start at 50/50, maybe scale more towards bloom as the flowering cycle progresses? Your plants will tell you what to do.

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Ok. Thanks. I've been following the chart that comes with the GH 3 part for DWC. I'm using the watermfarm drip systems w air stones. . I've been going light on the nutes itfollowing the weekly chart none the less. I don't understand why they would give you instructions that are so far off.

My girls are very healthy. No nute burn. Deep green color, growing rapidly, and look great in general. But maybe they are just really durable because it sounds like I've been over feeding them the whole time. And I thought I was going liking at 10% under what is called for.

I was thinking about going foliage pro, bloom, and protekt. I'm glad you mentioned this, because sales associate at the hydro store told me that I could switch right over to dyna bloom no problem. This was after she tried to sell me on big bud and overdrive.

In your experience, would you switch nutes going into flower next week or should I ride it out with the GH 3 part and buy all of the AN additives for flower? Based on your side by side grow, I'd much rather transition to dyna if you don't think that's a problem. But I need to make a decision within the next 3 days.

IME even half the listed suggest dose is more than the plants want. Nute companies want you using as much as possible.
Even if you decide not to get the DG for flower I wouldn't buy all of the Advanced Ripoff additives. I've seen plenty of people do well with the GH 3 part w/o snake oils.

Samcro4 said:

Ok. Thanks. I've been following the chart that comes with the GH 3 part for DWC. I'm using the watermfarm drip systems w air stones. . I've been going light on the nutes itfollowing the weekly chart none the less. I don't understand why they would give you instructions that are so far off.

My girls are very healthy. No nute burn. Deep green color, growing rapidly, and look great in general. But maybe they are just really durable because it sounds like I've been over feeding them the whole time. And I thought I was going liking at 10% under what is called for.

I was thinking about going foliage pro, bloom, and protekt. I'm glad you mentioned this, because sales associate at the hydro store told me that I could switch right over to dyna bloom no problem. This was after she tried to sell me on big bud and overdrive.

In your experience, would you switch nutes going into flower next week or should I ride it out with the GH 3 part and buy all of the AN additives for flower? Based on your side by side grow, I'd much rather transition to dyna if you don't think that's a problem. But I need to make a decision within the next 3 days.

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My bad, I just realized you're using a 3-part, please disregard my previous post on the DG bottles. I was highly medicated on some kali mist last night.

MrEDuck said:

IME even half the listed suggest dose is more than the plants want. Nute companies want you using as much as possible.
Even if you decide not to get the DG for flower I wouldn't buy all of the Advanced Ripoff additives. I've seen plenty of people do well with the GH 3 part w/o snake oils.

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Thanks, brother. Funny thing is, I asked the sales associate what so special about big bud and overdrive. I said you could reach the macros listed in the products contents on your own, so what is it that really sets those nutes apart. What's the science behind it? She proceeded to tell me that "they increase the resin production in your to tomatoes, and make them twice as big." That was it. I could tell she was struggling.

It's not her fault. She's just trying to do her job. Clearly, the owner of the store doesn't think that educating his employees on what they are selling is important.

I'm going to pick up the dyna bloom, and run it along with my 3 part. I am a little confused as to what macros I should try to hit though. I'm going to try to hit HB's instructions:
"I've seen the best yields across all strains from dynagro's roughly 1-3-2 ratio (which is what results when I mix grow and bloom). It just seems to be a nice balance.... Feed 1.2 EC 20% of that is grow w remaining 80% mostly bloom. Might cut back the gro week 7 but most of the time run till harvest. Don't need as much n towards end after grow and stretch to keep it green....."

I paraphrased some. But have a lot of notes from HB, UB, and others. So I plan to approach flower this way to keep it simple: 1-3-2 or as close as I can and I try to keep the leaves green. I realize there will be some trial and error for me in order to learn. Want to keep it simple, don't want to make a fundamental mistake though.

I've already learned alot about my girls. For example if I keep the humidity over 50 and the day temp at 75 or below, I see some awesome results. When the day temp gets above 75 they slow down significantly. When humidity is below 50 they also slow. But I have one of this temp/humidity monitors and played with both variables a bit and found their "dialed in" climate. Trying to get the nutes dialed in has been much more of a challenge. It's fun trying to figure it out.

Good on ya sam, sounds like your on a very good path..

Samcro4 said:

Thanks, brother. Funny thing is, I asked the sales associate what so special about big bud and overdrive. I said you could reach the macros listed in the products contents on your own, so what is it that really sets those nutes apart. What's the science behind it? She proceeded to tell me that "they increase the resin production in your to tomatoes, and make them twice as big." That was it. I could tell she was struggling.

It's not her fault. She's just trying to do her job. Clearly, the owner of the store doesn't think that educating his employees on what they are selling is important.
.

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stories like this are why I feel so fortunate to have a good guy @ the store I go to. He is actually a biology major in his third year specializing in botany...The guy knows his stuff. and he's a huge pothead and grower

but i've had to explain to him about how effective dynagro is....I've actually converted HIM from botanicare lol

my store is stopping carrying the advanced line ......yes, I really am fortunate to have an honest hydro store

Hi Home Brewer,

I've never posted before, but I've been growing in soil for many years (pro-mix to be precise). Thanks for all the information in this thread. I have a few questions:

1. Are you following DynaGro's feedchart? I ask because I have tap water of 150ppm, and when I added 12ml/gallon of Bloom (as directed by the feed chart) my total ppm was only 780. This seems very low, particularly for a hydroponic application. It's important to note that I did not add MagPro or ProTekt.

2. Was this a hydro to hydro comparison? I seem to remember reading that your DynaGro plants were in a soil mix. Sorry if I got that wrong. I am considering using a CAP ebb and grow if I switch to hydro, but would love to stick with pro-mix if I can get my yield up. I have a 4x4 flower area, so I could also potentially do a SOG with 25, 36, or 49 plants.

3. Do you suppose DynaGro will increase my pro-mix yields, or would a switch to a hydroponic application be the larger factor.

4. If using in hydroponics, MUST I use the grow in addition? What are your hydro/soil ppm levels?

Many thanks, and congrats.

Love Dyna Grow. Been using it for years. Sometimes I'll switch to Rock but usual I'll end back at Dyna Grow.

chrisinamsterdam said:

Hi Home Brewer,

I've never posted before, but I've been growing in soil for many years (pro-mix to be precise). Thanks for all the information in this thread. I have a few questions:

1. Are you following DynaGro's feedchart? I ask because I have tap water of 150ppm, and when I added 12ml/gallon of Bloom (as directed by the feed chart) my total ppm was only 780. This seems very low, particularly for a hydroponic application. It's important to note that I did not add MagPro or ProTekt.

2. Was this a hydro to hydro comparison? I seem to remember reading that your DynaGro plants were in a soil mix. Sorry if I got that wrong. I am considering using a CAP ebb and grow if I switch to hydro, but would love to stick with pro-mix if I can get my yield up. I have a 4x4 flower area, so I could also potentially do a SOG with 25, 36, or 49 plants.

3. Do you suppose DynaGro will increase my pro-mix yields, or would a switch to a hydroponic application be the larger factor.

4. If using in hydroponics, MUST I use the grow in addition? What are your hydro/soil ppm levels?

Many thanks, and congrats.

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1. No, I don't use their feed chart. 12ml/gallon is way too much and your ppm reading is likely on the .5 scale.

2. Hydro to hydro comparison.

3. Depends on what food you're using now in promix. Foliage pro in promix kills it.

4. You want to use grow in hydro along with bloom for the best results. Their bloom has too little N and too much P. My hydro/soil ppm/EC levels vary with the stage of growth.

Thanks!

How much of each do you add per gallon? Why would the feed chart have such overblown numbers? Wouldn't they have looked into that?

What is the highest concentration of nutrients in your flowering period?

chrisinamsterdam said:

Thanks!

How much of each do you add per gallon? Why would the feed chart have such overblown numbers? Wouldn't they have looked into that?

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Because they're in the business of selling nutrients so the more you use the more you'll buy.

MrEDuck said:

Because they're in the business of selling nutrients so the more you use the more you'll buy.

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I understand that, but it's not as if folks wouldn't catch on after frying their crops. I'm just trying to figure out what the proper DynaGro ppm is, considering the average nutrient solution is somewhere around 1000.

chrisinamsterdam said:

I understand that, but it's not as if folks wouldn't catch on after frying their crops. I'm just trying to figure out what the proper DynaGro ppm is, considering the average nutrient solution is somewhere around 1000.

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The funny thing is that folks don't catch on. Marketing is a powerful thing. People fry their crops and instead of taking a step back and reevaluating everything they go "oh no, I must need MORE stuff." Then they go buy an expensive bottle of who knows what and pray. At least that's my limited experience.

Like Samcro4 asked the store lady, what's so special about big bud? As far as I know it's just concentrated phosphorus and potassium or something like that. IMO your base nute should provide you with a good ratio to start at or you've got even bigger worries. Now if these boosters had some magical chemical/hormone/wizard piss then that would be one thing but it seems to me that 95% of these boosters are just a mix of certain micro/macros along with possible aminos and carbs that you probably don't need.

chrisinamsterdam said:

I understand that, but it's not as if folks wouldn't catch on after frying their crops. I'm just trying to figure out what the proper DynaGro ppm is, considering the average nutrient solution is somewhere around 1000.

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Wherever your plants are drinking nutrient solution at the same rate as water. It varies plant to plant though.

chrisinamsterdam said:

Thanks!

How much of each do you add per gallon? Why would the feed chart have such overblown numbers? Wouldn't they have looked into that?

What is the highest concentration of nutrients in your flowering period?

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How much do I add per gallon? I'm not sure how knowing that is going to help YOUR plants in YOUR environment. Read through the last 20-30 pages of this thread, I'm positive you'll find some answers. In the end, you're going to have to do what works best for you in terms of feeding strength and frequency. There are about 5 factors that I can immediately think of that affect how much one should feed their plants. Unless you're growing plants in MY room, MY numbers wont be much help.


What is the highest concentration of nutrients in your flowering period?

You should be feeding your plants the MINIMUM amount they need for healthy, deficiency-free growth.