DWC - Slime prevention - Biological Filtration / Bio-Filters / Bio-Chambers

Why do people not talk about biological filtration in regards to DWC?

  • It doesn't apply to DWC.

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Serpicody

Member
We have been battling slime/Pythium since the second week of setting up our RDWC.
We're at about 80 gallons of water over 16 buckets and a rez.
Regardless of water quality, water temp, water flow, aeration, or nutrients: the slime always came back.

We were so frustrated we changed all our lines bleached the hell out of the whole system, and then started adding the tea. By itself, the tea staved off the infection longer than we were able to produce before(maybe 3 or 4 days).
We noticed that before there was ever much actual slime development the water would get cloudy and start to smell. This is indicative of a bacteria inbalance/bloom.

This is where i should mention that for 5 or so years I managed/maintained high end aquariums. In my experience, any closed system of water goes through a cycle of different types of bacteria growth before reaching an equilibrium/balance. Despite my experience, I won't pretend to understand exactly how it all works scientifically, but I can explain it in sort of layman's terms:
  1. Decaying organics(fish waste, decaying plant material, dying bacteria) release ammonia into the water
  2. Ammonia is consumed by a certain type of bacteria that releases nitrites(These are NOT NITRATES and are highly toxic to fish.... maybe to plants too???)
  3. Another type of bacteria consumes nitrites and releases nitrates(consumable by plants and generally not too harmful to fish. Nitrate levels in fish aquariums are managed by partial water changes)
For more information on this from people who don't puff as much as I do see here: http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/biologicalcycle/a/nitrogencycle.htm

I just got so fed up with this cloudy water > slime > pissed off roots > stunted plants situation that I decided to start thinking about our DWC system as an aquarium. This led me to realize the one major thing that my super freakin' expensive and potentially awesome system was missing was BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION. Every fish tank, whether it be an expensive salt water system or a first-timer's freshwater guppie tank, performs better with biological filtration. This is accomplished in a number of different forms.
The methods vary:
  • Underground filters(sucking the water down through the gravel at the bottom of the tank by means of a tray placed underneath it.)
  • Trickle filter with bio-balls(This is what I want to talk about today) the drain from the aquarium is centered above the bio-ball chamber where the idea is to spread the water out and drip it over all of your bio-media.
The idea in either method is to provide plenty surface area in a high oxygen environment. This provides a place for beneficial bacteria to colonize/live. The bacteria cultured in these processes are the types that provide the equilibrium described in the aquarium nitrogen cycle described above. These processes/setups were one of the defining factors in salt water aquarium history. Without these, people found keeping salt water(or even fresh water) environments stable to be an extremely daunting task(a lot of what I read in the Heisenberg thread sounds like the issues people who don't use these processes have with their fish aquariums).

Anyways, the reason I am writing this is because I took it upon myself to build a bio-filter of my own using lava rocks and 5 gallon buckets(these materials because it's what I had sitting around ;) ) I feel like I can say, with confidence, that this has made a MAJOR DIFFERENCE. After a 100% water change, we would normally see slime in about 48 hours. After changing all of the water(for the one millionth time) I added my bio-filter, and did no more than a 25% change every day for 2 days. (I probably would not have changed any water during this period, but there were plants already in the system) After about 48 hours, the smell went away and the water stayed clear. By the third day, pearly white roots began to sprout out from my pots.(OH HAPPY DAYS!) It has been almost a week now, and no water changes, no nasty smell, and no slime.

It should also be mentioned that in conjunction with this last water change(when I added my bio-filter) we did another large dose of the Heisenberg Tea. We had limited success with it before, but saw no reason to stop using it. I like to believe some of the bacteria cultured in that tea lives on in my filter, and thus will help play a role that is more preventative than anything else.

It seems to me, without something like this in your system, you basically have a bucket of water going in a circle. Something like that is prone to being unbalanced by it's very nature. Take swimming pools for example: how many times a year do you think pools that receive rain water need to be "shocked", basically meaning you are just killing the rampant bacteria (actually, ALL bacteria) off.

Here is a description and some pics of what we did:
Basically, it's a 3 gallon bucket sitting inside a 5 gallon bucket. The 5 gallon is filled about half way with (RINSED OUT)lava rocks. The 3 gallon has around 75 holes drilled into the bottom of it, and it sits inside the the 5 gallon on top of the stones. Both buckets are positioned next to my rez atop another 5 gallon bucket so the rocks (and the bottom of the rock filled bucket) all sit above my water level. A line from my rez is hooked up to a separate pump that pushes the water into my 3 gallon bucket. The water then trickles through all of my holes and over all of my stones. The bottom of this particular 5 gallon bucket already had 2 holes w/ 1" bulk heads in them, so I put 1" hose on each of these that drains back to my rez. This is more complicated than it could have been, but, like I mentioned, I just used what I already had lying around. It was either this or light the whole damn thing on fire.

IMG_6764.jpeg
You can see the bio-filter in the center back next-to and above the rez. Please ignore the sorry state of the larger plant.... She has been through and hell and back. It's a miracle she's still alive at all.

IMG_4515.jpeg
This is a close-up of the contraption.

IMG_0687.jpeg
This is a close up of the inside of the 3 gallon strainer bucket. There is an additional bulk head put in the center-bottom of the bucket. This is in place to both allow air-flow between the two buckets and to function as an overflow in-case the holes clog up.

IMG_7992.jpeg
This is what it looks like when you lift the 3 gallon out of the 5 gallon while it is turned on.(Making a mess!) You can see the lava rocks inside if you look closely.

So...... Does anyone have any input on this? Am I crazy? Are we just all of a sudden getting lucky? Can anyone with a bit more of a scientific background back me up, shoot me down, or provide any kind of additional info?
 
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Dankfactory

Well-Known Member
I'll have to go with " they do talk about you noob", given your available poll options. Ever heard of Aquaponics? It's immensely popular and Bio filtration is the cornerstone. Nothing new homeslice. No harm in spreading awareness however. But with a proper DWC set up with a chiller, the right Nutes (and personally have had better runs w no bennies,) I don't personally see the need, and I should note I've been running saltwater reef tanks for over ten years and am very savvy with nitrifying bacteria.
 
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Serpicody

Member
I'll have to go with " they do talk about you noob", given your available poll options. Ever heard of Aquaponics? It's immensely popular and Bio filtration is the cornerstone. Nothing new homeslice. No harm in spreading awareness however. But with a proper DWC set up with a chiller, the right Nutes and no bennies, I don't personally see the need, and I should note I've been running saltwater reef tanks for over ten years and am very savvy with nitrifying bacteria.
Of course I have heard of aquaponics. When I was doing fish tanks I also took care of many aquaponic ponds etc. I realize the idea of bio filtration is not new, but I don't see much of anything said about it in regards to DWC specifically. I can't tell you how many times I've mentioned DWC at grow shops and people roll their eyes or tell me there are just too many problems. I feel like many of those problems, which occur in many cases even with all the right newts, water temp, Ph, etc etc(which I have) could be addressed with this simple addition to their system.
 

Dankfactory

Well-Known Member
Then, since deep water culture is essentially just cultivating your root ball in water instead of a media, I'm not seeing where the line is drawn between a cannabis Aquaponic grow, and a cannabis DWC grow via the use of bio bacteria. Please elaborate.
 

Serpicody

Member
Then, since deep water culture is essentially just cultivating your root ball in water instead of a media, I'm not seeing where the line is drawn between a cannabis Aquaponic grow, and a cannabis DWC grow via the use of bio bacteria. Please elaborate.
First, think about the similarities in an aquaponic set up and DWC. The main thing to note would be the closed recirculating system concept. You have a body of water that moves in a circle constantly. (as opposed to a drip or eb-flo where the plants only get exposed to water periodically)
With that in mind, how does the typical DWC set up compensate for the loss of biological stability provided by the substrate or whatever is used in an aquaponic system? The answer is: I don't think it does, or at least not in an efficient and intentional way.
I'd be willing to bet that many people who do experience stability in their DWC systems experience it, in some part, by accident. I think with LOTS of aeration and with the correct grow media, the same results can be achieved. Which is fine. However, what media works best for that, what your water level needs to be in relation to the bottom of your pots, how much aeration exactly, and who knows what other variables: are all things that have too many moving parts to maintain a consistent bio-filtration level. Especially when the roots start to really cover up the bottom of the pot and block the aerated water from hitting the media.
Again, I'm not saying these things can't be done, I'm just saying a more deliberate approach might be appropriate.

Feel me?

;)
 

Dankfactory

Well-Known Member
First, think about the similarities in an aquaponic set up and DWC. The main thing to note would be the closed recirculating system concept. You have a body of water that moves in a circle constantly. (as opposed to a drip or eb-flo where the plants only get exposed to water periodically)
With that in mind, how does the typical DWC set up compensate for the loss of biological stability provided by the substrate or whatever is used in an aquaponic system? The answer is: I don't think it does, or at least not in an efficient and intentional way.
I'd be willing to bet that many people who do experience stability in their DWC systems experience it, in some part, by accident. I think with LOTS of aeration and with the correct grow media, the same results can be achieved. Which is fine. However, what media works best for that, what your water level needs to be in relation to the bottom of your pots, how much aeration exactly, and who knows what other variables: are all things that have too many moving parts to maintain a consistent bio-filtration level. Especially when the roots start to really cover up the bottom of the pot and block the aerated water from hitting the media.
Again, I'm not saying these things can't be done, I'm just saying a more deliberate approach might be appropriate.

Feel me?

;)
If you look at the world of reef aquaria, in which the entire hobby relies on bio filtration, you'll notice that nobody is running bio balls anymore. While adding surface area, they also trap detritus and serve as little nitrate hotels. After reading this above post, I'm not sure if you truly understand the nitrifying bacteria process itself. I currently run my saltwater tanks barebottom after years of using a deep sand bed as a substrate. Now I'm absolutely Zero substrate aside from some very minimal live rock. People forget that surface area also includes, well, the surface of everything. So while a substrate bed can be beneficial, it's not a necessary component in aquaria, or it's close cousin: aquaponics. Dropping some rocks into the tub would serve the same purpose as a substrate: providing a surface for the bacteria to grow on, not to mention the surface of all of your equipment and the reservoir itself.

I noticed you felt it pertinent to CAP LOTS while referring to aeration and its importance in DWC. Aeration is of course necessary but can be achieved simply by surface renewal. You literally don't even need an air stone or pump driven aeration device as long as you have proper volume turnover to allow for gas exchange to take place. So yes aeration is critical, but there are many ways to accomplish the goal. Also water volume in relation to the bottom of your pots, while important for the root system, is a non issue as it relates to bio filtration. A root ball covering media becomes more of a water flow problem than it is an aeration problem. The bacteria is there, it's simply relying on you to provide it with oxygenated water. This is easily accomplished by proper flow through the system.
 
I'll have to go with " they do talk about you noob", given your available poll options. Ever heard of Aquaponics? It's immensely popular and Bio filtration is the cornerstone. Nothing new homeslice. No harm in spreading awareness however. But with a proper DWC set up with a chiller, the right Nutes (and personally have had better runs w no bennies,) I don't personally see the need, and I should note I've been running saltwater reef tanks for over ten years and am very savvy with nitrifying bacteria.
What Nutes are you using just out of curiosity? I am just looking for options from someone who runs no bennies. I would like to try it sometime.
 

DrCannaPath

Well-Known Member
Hey dude. This sounds awesome. I believe Heisenberg did mention brewing the tea with lava stone in the bottom then transferring that stone to the res (or the air ball covered in biofilm). If I understood Heisenberg correctly, bennies need surface area to latch on. In a case of a new system with little root mass, you could benefit from a lava rock or air stone .... However, if your system is established and you have nice root balls, the bennies will have plenty of surface area to latch on!
Now, looking at your pictures and seeing how little the plants are, and assuming their roots aren't really that developed, I wonder if that's why the tea alone wasn't helping you!
Anyway, the biofilter is doing its job and that's what matters! I bet ya though that once the plants developed nice root balls, and with applying the tea in every bucket plus the res, you may be able to lose the biofilter (not that I'm saying you should)
Happy growing brotha
 

Dankfactory

Well-Known Member
What Nutes are you using just out of curiosity? I am just looking for options from someone who runs no bennies. I would like to try it sometime.
Have personally had excellent results with Dutch Master. I'm currently framing up a new garden in the downstairs studio of my house. Once finished, I might try a run with current culture just to compare
 

Serpicody

Member
If you look at the world of reef aquaria, in which the entire hobby relies on bio filtration, you'll notice that nobody is running bio balls anymore. While adding surface area, they also trap detritus and serve as little nitrate hotels. After reading this above post, I'm not sure if you truly understand the nitrifying bacteria process itself. I currently run my saltwater tanks barebottom after years of using a deep sand bed as a substrate. Now I'm absolutely Zero substrate aside from some very minimal live rock. People forget that surface area also includes, well, the surface of everything. So while a substrate bed can be beneficial, it's not a necessary component in aquaria, or it's close cousin: aquaponics. Dropping some rocks into the tub would serve the same purpose as a substrate: providing a surface for the bacteria to grow on, not to mention the surface of all of your equipment and the reservoir itself.
Im aware of how if you use live rock there really isnt a need for bio-balls. However, they do still use them in fish only setups, and for good reason. The live rock is just an alternative method. Considering I don't have any freshwater live rock lying around, my homemade solution seems to be doing the trick.
 

Serpicody

Member
In a case of a new system with little root mass, you could benefit from a lava rock or air stone .... However, if your system is established and you have nice root balls, the bennies will have plenty of surface area to latch on!
Now, looking at your pictures and seeing how little the plants are, and assuming their roots aren't really that developed, I wonder if that's why the tea alone wasn't helping you!
This makes a lot of sense to me. It has also been mentioned many times in that thread that the rot/slime seems to attack less developed plants more easily than developed. Initially I would think it's just because the plant is more mature and tougher, but after reading this: I wonder if the developed root system is what functions as bio-filtration in later stages. That would explain a lot regarding why our system was having so many issues. The little plants were only put in there recently, and there were a number of non-plant-filled buckets. Hmmmm.
 
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