DonBrennons 'Unconventional' organic gardens

Still Blazin87

Well-Known Member
This is what's going on under the log
The worms seem to love it under there and there's a woodlouse dug it there too, breaking wood down and pooping nutrients, let the bugs do the work lol
I decided to add my mosquito bits to my pots, the fungus gnats are pissing me off now and I think my hypoaspis miles have gone on strike lol.
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While adding it I noticed some of the micro-clover coming through and in some strange places........who'd of though a rotten log would be good germination substrate pmsl
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Nice. Hey what's upp it's me againn :) I have a question for yah. Is it good to foliar with aloe during flowering? those 2 plants are doing good there on 3rd week of flowering I want to foliar spray it with aloe but not sure if that would be bad for the buds or not..
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Nice. Hey what's upp it's me againn :) I have a question for yah. Is it good to foliar with aloe during flowering? those 2 plants are doing good there on 3rd week of flowering I want to foliar spray it with aloe but not sure if that would be bad for the buds or not..
NO, I wouldn't foliar with anything once plants have started flowering, I can't say exactly why, it's just something I've never done. Every book I've ever read about growing MJ has said to stop foliar in flower, I really can't recall the reason, but I think it's mainly because of mold and I think you could also kill pistels, causing no calyx(BUD!!!) to form
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I really can't recall the reason, but I think it's mainly because of mold
My take on it also! Mostly a sales gimmick

For the most part, I heard that foliar spray just causes problems like clogging the surface of the leaves. Should be trying to wash the leaves instead of clogging
 

Still Blazin87

Well-Known Member
NO, I wouldn't foliar with anything once plants have started flowering, I can't say exactly why, it's just something I've never done. Every book I've ever read about growing MJ has said to stop foliar in flower, I really can't recall the reason, but I think it's mainly because of mold and I think you could also kill pistels, causing no calyx(BUD!!!) to form
Heyyy thanks.. I actually held off on the foliar spraying. I never have foliar sprayed during flower before but was starting to think it would be good for it during flower. I just wanna give it some aloe! :) I can just water in the aloe right? I've been doing that with the AACT feedings. Haven't given amy b of them aloe for a week can't wait to give them some tomorrow hopefully. When you guys with coconut water do you get a whole real coconut and use the water that's inside of it? I assume that's the only way since it's the most natural firm of having it...
 

Still Blazin87

Well-Known Member
My take on it also! Mostly a sales gimmick

For the most part, I heard that foliar spray just causes problems like clogging the surface of the leaves. Should be trying to wash the leaves instead of clogging
I see I see but foliar spraying with water it either evaporates or gets absorbs unless there's impurities in it. Last time I foliar sprayed with aloe the results were amazing it sure didn't clog it one bit either the leaves perked up like no other lol I'm gonna foliar my non flowering plants with aloe tomorrow can't wait. Tomorrow after noons a day with the ladies!
 

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
I see I see but foliar spraying with water it either evaporates or gets absorbs unless there's impurities in it. Last time I foliar sprayed with aloe the results were amazing it sure didn't clog it one bit either the leaves perked up like no other lol I'm gonna foliar my non flowering plants with aloe tomorrow can't wait. Tomorrow after noons a day with the ladies!
I think that spraying my plants reminds me of fighting spider mites. I was just proud that I didnt have to spray them for the last 2yrs lol... I have thought about spraying my mother plants with AACT a couple of days before I clone to keep mold in check while in the clone chamber.

I have seen other people that spray their stuff with MNT DEW! WTF!!! shit gets out of hand
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
I know his grow your greens vids can be a bit kooky and some people find him annoying, but he does research his vid material and he's very passionate about it, this one about biochar is great, simple, informative and to the point
I particularly like the idea of piling your ageing biochar near the roots of a living tree for it's roots and myco to invade
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Been struggling with low humidity in the flowering rooms since changing lighting set up, so decided to get a couple of cheap humidifiers and add one on each side. It's definitely improved them environment, just need to get the timers for various things right now, to really get things dialed in.

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This was at lights on, before humidifiers were added, it was settling around 32%, sometimes going lower, after lights had been on for a while.


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This was after two hours with the humidifiers

I find that when the plants get bigger and fill out more of the room, the humidity rises due to extra foliar evaporation and the extra shade provided at the bottom of the tent. I think I'll be able to stop using the humidifiers after a couple of weeks.
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
So, they got their EWC topdress earlier this week, just had a good clean up/lollypop and 'minimal' supercropping on the one on the right, shouldn't even call it supercropping really, more like manipulation. Going 12-12 today
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The waste got cut up and fed to the worm bins
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DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Topped all the plants in the main tent above the 6th node this morning before lights out and gave them a mild foliar of seaweed extract, lacto and a few drops of yukka extract for surfacant.
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They seem to be getting over the stress pretty well already
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The micro-clover I broadcast is coming through nicely as well now, and some of the marigolds are better than others, 2 of them, both the same variety and the only variety doing this, are stunted and have small brown spots. After a little research, I've found this can be quite common in marigolds and it points to an iron deficiency, I got side tracked then, but I need to do further research into this, maybe some companion plants could be used to highlight soil problems or deficiencies. This has probably already been researched, I'll have to look into it.
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Decided to try charging my rotted logs, for the side by side organic soil mixes, with a method off one of the grow your greens youtube videos used for charging biochar, which I've sort of improvised with a little.
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I mixed the chunks up with fresh vermicompost added a cup of basalt rock dust, half a cup of neem, half a cup of kelp, 2 cups chopped up cannabis leaf, 1 large cup of flour and a small handful of rice and sprayed it all down with a couple of liters of water. This is now sitting in a loose bag and I expect it to cook a little and get a fungal web over the surface. Hopefully the chunks will still be there when it's done cooking lol.
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
A little bit of a 'cut and paste' post, but these are what I've sprinkled over my plants today to combat a thrip invasion and to protect against any spider mite I may have introduced with my external inputs

Amblyseius californicus 2000

http://www.biobestgroup.com/en/biobest/products/biological-control-4463/beneficial-insects-and-mites-4479/californicus-system-4645/

A spider mite killer in- and outdoors Prey Two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) occur on many host plants and can cause a lot of damage. Plant cells are sucked dry, which often show as yellow dots on the upper surface of leaves. Plants get out of physiological balance and present growth inhibition. As well, aesthetic damage, caused by the creation of spider webs, can occur. A typical morphological characteristic of two-spotted spider mites, are the two dark spots on their abdomen. Males are more mobile, smaller and thinner than the oval females. The female deposits its oval eggs, with a diameter of approximately 0,14 mm on the underside of the leaf. From the egg, a larva hatches with 3 pairs of legs. Next, the larva develops into a protonymph, followed by the deutonymph and finally, an adult stage. The different development phases are separated by a rest phase, in which the two-spotted spider mite remains for some time on the leaf with its legs drawn in. When the mite is full-grown, it still takes 0,5 to 3 days before it lays its first eggs (preoviposition period). The total life cycle strongly depends on temperature, humidity and host plant. Especially in case of warm and dry weather spider mites can reproduce very fast. In autumn, when temperature and light decrease, gravid female spider mites go into diapause. These females turn orange-red. They hide in all kinds of splits and cracks in the greenhouse, to return the next spring when the conditions improve. Amblyseius californicus Amblyseius (Neoseiulus) californicus occurs naturally in California, Florida and in the countries surrounding the Mediterranean on strawberries, citrus and ornamentals. The predatory mite Amblyseius californicus feeds mainly on two-spotted spider mites, but also on other harmful mites, such as the fruit tree spider mite (Panonychus ulmi), citrus red mite (Panonychus citri), broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus) and cyclamen mite (Tarsonemus pallides), and also on thrips and pollen. Five different stages can be distinguished: egg, larva, protonymph, deutonymph and adult. A. californicus develops well at high temperatures. This predatory mite better withstands low humidity than other predatory mites. The life cycle can be completed in 4 days at high temperatures (30°C). At the same temperature, the life cycle of spider mites is twice as long as that of A. californicus. The adult predatory mite lives about 20 days. She lays eggs during 14 days (with an average of 3 eggs a day). An adult Amblyseius californicus is able to consume 5 adult spider mites daily and possibly some extra eggs and larvae. Especially in crops where temperature and/or relative humidity can change dramatically, Amblyseius californicus will do better than Phytoseiulus persimilis. Contrary to Phytoseiulus, Amblyseius californicus can survive longer without prey. Amblyseius californicus can survive on a diet of pollen. In crops where it is hard to spot the first two-spotted spider mites, Amblyseius californicus can also be introduced preventively even if no spider mites have been found yet. The nymphs of A. californicus prefer young stages and eggs of the two-spotted spider mite. The female eats all stages. A. californicus is most efficient in cases of a low population density of two-spotted spider mite.

Amblyseius cucumeris 25000

http://www.biobestgroup.com/en/biobest/products/biological-control-4463/beneficial-insects-and-mites-4479/amblyseius-system-4664/

Thrips can cause serious damage in several greenhouse crops. Since the widespread application of substrate cultures, the thrips problem has increased. Soil treatments that made thrips hibernation impossible, are now often omitted in soilless cultures. Amblyseius-System Amblyseius-Breeding-System Thrips Adult thrips are small, elongated insects typically with fringed wings. They measure about 1 mm, and have a greyish or yellow to brown colour. The two most common harmful species are the Onion Thrips (Thrips tabaci) and the Western Flower Thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis). The female thrips deposits eggs in the leaf tissue. The eggs hatch within a few days into very mobile larvae which immediately begin to feed. After the second instar they fall on the ground to pupate. The total development from egg to adult takes from 20 days at 20°C (68°F) to 12 days at 30°C (86°F). At sufficiently high temperatures one female thrips can produce up to 100 descendants. Thrips damage the crop by withdrawing the plant cell fluids. Empty cells are filled with air, causing a silvery appearance, on which dark spots (excrement) are visible. Moreover, there exist many more damage symptoms depending on the crop. In sweet pepper, they cause cosmetic damage on the fruits close to the calyx. In several ornamentals, flower damage through discoloration or deformation occurs. Only a few individual thrips are enough to cause crop damage. Moreover, thrips are important vectors of several viruses (e.g. Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus, TSWV). Amblyseius cucumeris Biology Amblyseius cucumeris is a beige predatory mite of less than 1 mm. As an arachnid it has eight legs. In spite of the modest appearance, it is still quite conspicuous because of its mobility on the underside of a leaf or in the flower. The female mite mates several times. It deposits (a few eggs) daily on hairs close to the veins on the underside of the leaf. The young larvae that emerge have only six legs and do not eat. During the two subsequent nymphal stages and as an adult, they have eight legs. A nymph looks like a smaller adult, so there is no metamorphosis. The development from egg to adult takes 8 - 11 days (at respectively 25°C (77°F) and 20°C (68°F). An adult Amblyseius cucumeris lives for about 3 weeks. Adults pierce their prey and then feed on it. Besides thrips larvae, they might sometimes eat spider mites or eggs or larvae of the spider mite predator Phytoseiulus persimilis. As adult thrips can defend themselves well by striking out their abdomen, Amblyseius prefers first instar thrips. Moreover, they eat pollen, which is a useful characteristic for preventative introduction of Amblyseius cucumeris in pollen bearing crops such as sweet pepper. Application Amblyseius cucumeris has been used for years in several greenhouse vegetable crops such as sweet pepper and eggplant. Also in ornamentals such as gerbera, chrysan-themum, rose and all sorts of pot plants, the interest for this predatory mite has increased during recent years. Although Amblyseius controls thrips well in a wide range of greenhouse crops, the leaf structure or composition of some plants (tomato, geranium) hampers the use of this predatory mite. Therefore, consult your technical advisor for possible applications. A low air humidity (below 65 %) impedes the population build-up of Amblyseius cucumeris as the eggs do not hatch and breeder packs (see below) dry out. Therefore Amblyseius cucumeris is assisted in the summer by other natural enemies of thrips (Orius, Amblyseius degenerans).
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
I used to be in an indie rock n roll band and Friday nights were reserved for gig's or jamming, but this is what I prefer to do with my Friday nights these days PMSFL. Bottle of wine, good book, deck chair, couple of ready rolled and one attention seeking, pain in the arse dog (I'm out of breath in the vid cos I'd just been chasing him about, lol)

I've never run the burner when it's been going dark before, so I've never seen the bin glow before or the flame coming out of the top of the chimney. I think the bin glowing could be a sign it is on it's way out and I may not get too many more runs out of it before it fails.
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Some interesting developments with my rotted logs................I noticed some dormant larva in some of the logs but decided to add them anyway.
These are what have emerged pmsl
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After a little research I think they're some sort of crane fly, they can be a pest to some crops, when their eggs hatch, the young larva feed on young fresh plant roots. I'm not too worried about them because the adults are fairly short lived (especially in a grow tent full of sticky traps), and I don't think I've seen 2 live ones at the same time.
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Bubbleberry plants 11 days after flip and a few hours after the following root drench (per each plant):
2L filtered water
2 tsp fermented fruit juice (fermented seperately, then mixed together - Banana, mango, carrot, kiwi, Dandelion flowers)
1 tsp cal/phos (eggshells + oystershell grit, baked, cushed, dissolved in apple cider vinegar)
1 tsp fermented clover SST ( Made the SST2 way, but after blending add 1/3rd molasses
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Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Fuckin hell yeah! DIONAEA AND DROSERA
You may have a problem with the saras as they are very high RH. But a excellent choice none the less. Look into some Australian pitchers I believe they can acclimate easier to lower RH.

What's your soil mix for the CPs?
I use a 1:1 Canadian sphagnum peat with pure quarts sand for any drosera and Dionaea. The Nepenthes likes it a little more airy, so I use a combo of orchid bark, quarts sand, perlite and long fiber sphagnum moss. Never allow the media to completely dry out, but rather remain moist or damp. The Dionaea like to have wet feet all the time so I'll add a 1/4" of water in a dish and sit them in it. The drosera like to be soggy but have a very brief (12hr) dry out. Never truly dry, but more like the Nepenthes, damp.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Bubbleberry plants 11 days after flip and a few hours after the following root drench (per each plant):
2L filtered water
2 tsp fermented fruit juice (fermented seperately, then mixed together - Banana, mango, carrot, kiwi, Dandelion flowers)
1 tsp cal/phos (eggshells + oystershell grit, baked, cushed, dissolved in apple cider vinegar)
1 tsp fermented clover SST ( Made the SST2 way, but after blending add 1/3rd molasses
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Damn those plants look happy as all hell! Great job man, FPE is the bee's knees! I love the versatility you exercise in your garden.
 
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