DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
I have seen flowering finish a week sooner with the red at lights off. I have not seen the results for using both. I did read about an experiment with IR (Heat) right before lights on and he got the same week sooner finish.
If you can knock two weeks off of your indoor flower time, I think that is well worth $200.
Frank's Gift:
Cheers,
Mo
I question whether or not you would lose 10 to 20% weight if you knock off 10 to 20% growth time from the plant? If in fact it speeds up growth like co2 in a sense,wouldnt people see the stretch phase end rapidly as well? More control testing with and without far reds needs to be done for final weight and thc content.i have seen cuts in my room have quicker finish for just random reasons and those plants usually come up short on weight for me.but maybe the far red finish does not do this?
Indica Charmer
Active Member
Enclosed closet grow, 1'x3'x4.5' high, reflectix on all surfaces. Looking to use 3 gallon dwc, and a mini Scrog. Hoping to get decent flowering for this small area. Robin, would one board be enough run rather hard, or would two boards run very light be better (or would that maybe be overkill)? Thanks.
ChaosHunter
Well-Known Member
I can understand the benefit of shaving off time for large scale grows or someone who grows year round. But it's an expense for someone like me to invest in for one or two quality grows a year for personal.
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sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
well i grow year round for 12+ patients and i just cant see how shaving a week off the plant is helpfull if you lose weight in the process.right now if i shave a week off my total grow times and lose 1 oz im in the hole by about 150.00 per plant per oz lost. 1200.00 per month elec x 12 weeks(veg +bloom) so if i shave a week off i save 100.00 now thats the total bill for bloom and veg but if all the plants come up just 1/2 oz short this would be about 12 oz for 24 plants in a 12 week timeline.12 oz x 250=3000.00 this is a small example of how things could go bad on my end.this is why im curious to know if forcing the plant to finish faster takes away weight and/or thc content.i mean guys already claim that cobs finish plants 5 to 7 days faster(i dont see this in my garden) so you take 6 days off for cobs,and 6 days off for far reds,now can we honestly say 12 less days gives up nearly the weight of a full term plant? lets just say im skeptical lmao.
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately you can't make weed grow faster, so if you make it ripen early then obviously it will be at the sacrifice of weight and bud thickness. Is that really a benefit? Maybe if your life depends on having some weed a week sooner than normal, otherwise probably not. Now if you could get the same weight a week earlier that would be a good trick.
pop22
Well-Known Member
what we need is some accurate data collection on this theory. Otherwise, this is how garden myths begin, someone makes an assumption based on very limited data and mistakenly claims it works great. On a large scale, MAYBE it could be beneficial, but, the problem there is, the harder you push your garden to perform, the harder it is to be consistent from grow to grow. Comercial grows demand consistency above all else, if you can count on a certain minimum crop, more is a bonus. I'd rather grow say 100 pounds every grow than 120 pounds this time and 60 the next... it only takes a small problem or mistake to ruin a grow thats running everything maxed out.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
Bingo
dro-man80
Well-Known Member
Hey fellow growers in green,,,Quick question ,,if I were to run my drivers in a separate room outside flower room,what is the Sufficient Gauge Wire to use to extend the drivers to separate room.
From what I gathered ,18 gauge is good..( and I'm only going to be going about 10 feet max from light)
Thanks guys,,Getting my schematics in order for new QB Builds..
From what I gathered ,18 gauge is good..( and I'm only going to be going about 10 feet max from light)
Thanks guys,,Getting my schematics in order for new QB Builds..
Mohican
Well-Known Member
I have seen the side by side for far red at lights off. Same weight at a week sooner.
I have also seen the graphs from a university study for hemp grown in different concentrations of CO2. The most optimal grew 3x faster.
I am pretty sure you can google a chart that will give you the optimal wire gauge for the distance and amps you require. I don't think it ever hurts to go one gauge better.
Cheers,
Mo
I have also seen the graphs from a university study for hemp grown in different concentrations of CO2. The most optimal grew 3x faster.
I am pretty sure you can google a chart that will give you the optimal wire gauge for the distance and amps you require. I don't think it ever hurts to go one gauge better.
Cheers,
Mo
qballizhere
Well-Known Member
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/voltage-drop-calculator.htmHey fellow growers in green,,,Quick question ,,if I were to run my drivers in a separate room outside flower room,what is the Sufficient Gauge Wire to use to extend the drivers to separate room.
From what I gathered ,18 gauge is good..( and I'm only going to be going about 10 feet max from light)
Thanks guys,,Getting my schematics in order for new QB Builds..
If you have 18 gauge wire and after 10 feet you will drop 0.254788V or 0.212323%
In my room the drivers are on separate wall and I used 18 gauge wire going to the fixtures I used 18/6 wire and its 20' to the lights https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/Portable-Cord/600V-SOOW-STO/SOOW/18-6-soow-portable-cord-600v-ul-csa.html
greg nr
Well-Known Member
It also depends on the voltage you are driving. The lower the voltage, the higher the current will be a specific wattage and the thicker the conductor will need to be. There are wire size calculators for various voltages and current loads. Just remember to double the length you input (they use circuit length which adds the pos and neg wire lengths).
I do a lot of 12V dc wiring, and running too small a conductor over any length is never a good idea.
I do a lot of 12V dc wiring, and running too small a conductor over any length is never a good idea.
HydoDan
Well-Known Member
Pre-orders start on Tuesday. 4/4..
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
Smart Grow was gonna be one of my first LEDs. Was in touch w/ them allot then. I think they have a good product. This is their new stuff. Expensive last I checked though.
blueleafjedi
Member
im running 5 3590's on a hlg 320 1400b .. my question is can i just replace the center cob in my build with a qb (3k) on a slate 2 if so do i just keep it series ?
619kt619
Well-Known Member
I want to say you can wire that in series so long as the forward voltage of your string does not exceed what the driver can output. So the 4 cobs plus the board cannot have more than 234 V(f). Might want to confirm with HLG or someone that knows more than I
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
That video brings something to mind. It shows the spectrum, at 1:14, and you can see that there is significant UVA. No UVB but lots of UVA. As is well known, UVA is even more damaging than UVB, penetrating the skin farther. Plus I don't think it even does plants any good, does it? It certainly has no enhancing effect on potency. It's just "black light". If black lights did any good people probably would have noticed it by now, they're common enough.
So my point is that there are many LED sellers who are putting UVA in there, and it doesn't seem to make much sense, other than as a selling gimmick, trying to get an advantage over plain white LED competitors. I don't know if there would be enough to cause harm but I also don't think it would do any good and is a waste of power which could have gone to more white ones.
Same with IR. They use ones that are in the very high end of the spectrum, invisible to the eye and only producing heat, as far a I know. I don't think plants can use the invisible far red spectrum. I know 730 nm has a visible red color.
So my advice is to bypass the boards with the UVA and/or IR LEDs and just buy stock warm white boards, as commonly sold in many online lighting and electronics stores, the linear boards designed for fluorescent replacement like Samsung "inFlux". It's getting so you can hardly find an LED grow light that doesn't have UVA and/or IR in them.
So my point is that there are many LED sellers who are putting UVA in there, and it doesn't seem to make much sense, other than as a selling gimmick, trying to get an advantage over plain white LED competitors. I don't know if there would be enough to cause harm but I also don't think it would do any good and is a waste of power which could have gone to more white ones.
Same with IR. They use ones that are in the very high end of the spectrum, invisible to the eye and only producing heat, as far a I know. I don't think plants can use the invisible far red spectrum. I know 730 nm has a visible red color.
So my advice is to bypass the boards with the UVA and/or IR LEDs and just buy stock warm white boards, as commonly sold in many online lighting and electronics stores, the linear boards designed for fluorescent replacement like Samsung "inFlux". It's getting so you can hardly find an LED grow light that doesn't have UVA and/or IR in them.
are you confusing UV-A with UV-C here?