diy water cooled cobs,first run ever.

NastyN8t

Active Member
I can keep them way under 50c! @SupraSPL u sir are my inspiration that led me away from a junk ass mars 2 . Until I stumbled upon some of ur work I was convinced that red and blue was the only way to reap nugzz w led. My lil bro and his friends have been building stupid bright led flashlights,light bars etc for the last decade so the choice of led array was my first choice for getting in the game.....on a second note I found 100w red or blue leds for $6 a piece but they only throw 5000lm max vs the 10000lm of the white cobs. Ofcourse that would be 5000lm of the single wavelengths.........
 
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NastyN8t

Active Member
i have a 3d printer that prints15"x15"x15" that is supposed to be shipped sometime in the future.........my bro and i funded it on kikstarter. Anyways i plan on getting all kinds of creative with it and plan on printing a superior watercooled heatsink with an integrated parabolic reflector and adjustable mount for each cob array may even go with varifocal lenses to adjust and control every photon of energy where its needed.........im kinda a mad scientist style maker..........i can get a disolvable filament then make a mold and cast it in aluminum...........it far out there but pheasable.......
 

NastyN8t

Active Member
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so I have two of these dual cob satellite modules plumbed and wired together just gotta get them spliced in. I think I'll push these at 100w each on a 400w power supply. I can expand my system 400w at a time for $60-70......my girls are loving the 250w so far
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
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so I have two of these dual cob satellite modules plumbed and wired together just gotta get them spliced in. I think I'll push these at 100w each on a 400w power supply. I can expand my system 400w at a time for $60-70......my girls are loving the 250w so far
I'm a lil crazy about building modular components and equipment- and I LOVE THIS!
 

NastyN8t

Active Member
I'm at 525 watts thru 8 cobs check out my satellite one ended up at a slight angle level w the main block the other is a side light halfway down my lil bushy bitches............and yeah I'm still a lil noided out to put incriminating pics up......
 

orangeade5

Well-Known Member
the other night i threw a couple ice packs for a cooler in the bucket and it dropped the temps nicely.....when i start pushing alot more power ill use a large coller and fill it w ice packs. Should cool the room and lights untill the temperatures balance out. .......either way this set up is pretty cheap and could be replicated w basic hand tools and a drill.
For a nice reusable option just freeze water bottles, toss them in the bucket and cycle them out of your freezer. Used to do that with my dwc grows during the summer months.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
that's exactly what I was thinking
I'm very curious about the average temperature range where COBs begin to lose performance, or 'temperature droop'. I'm hoping @SupraSPL can give us a little insight?

The reason this is relevant to me has to do with the water temperature in my chilling system. If the chips can be 100f before performance degrades significantly, then lots of very inexpensive water cooling methods can be employed, like simply having the res be a heat conductive material like a metal tub, and setting up a fan to blow air across its open top, helping evaporative cooling.

I'm also very concerned about mixing high wattage DC current with water- and even if the fittings are all nice n tight, the possibility of condensation remains if the cooling fluid is TOO cold. I'm not so worried about this happening while the lights are on as I am during the dark cycle.
 

NastyN8t

Active Member
so @SupraSPL says that @85*c or 140*f that white cobs ( veros anyways) are still 93% efficient! So 100f is no problem . I can hold all of my blocks after 10+hours easy......I'm gonna get an infrared thermometer when funds allow it but I'm totally comfortable with how the temps are .

high voltage dc w water isn't scary for me I've got a strong mechanical and electrical background my pops is a mechanic and I've mixed electrical and fluids on a regular. U could use mineral oil which has a higher thermal conductivity but id hate to have to wash all that shit off a plant in the worst case scenario......i have faith in my plumbing. I used acceptable connection methods and there's a minimal amount of pressure due to it being an open circuit and all.....

I did however have a water catastrophe when I used a garden hose and an expandable bladder to clear a bathtub drain in the same room as my watermonster .......it blew outta the drain and soaked the shit outta my cobs while running!!!!!!

didn't phase them just left corosion spots on the metal backing plates they are printed on.

I've seen people hot power wash the insides of fully electronic Cadillac's on a regular basis at a wholesalers car lot. No problems the cobs are pretty much sealed in and there's not much to worry about in my opinion.
 

NastyN8t

Active Member
well dude I'm considering producing similar units after my trial and error phase has past. This is my first indoor set up and everybody that i know of local is running with red/ blue mass production crap, hps or cfl. I'm going to try to change the game up here. Dude at the hydro shop was in disbelief on the white cobs and said they needed a local lil me to service and test led set UPS. I told him I can build red/blue arrays but everything I saw showed the DIY cob dudes killing it w whites so I'm throwing down an expandable water cooled design that should support 1000w plus of whatever kinda led wanted! Some people talk alot....
 
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