PAR meters, even apogee, unfortunately cannot see red, deep reds and blue as well as it can see greens/yellows etc. So the measurements are not absolute figures, but they can be used for relative comparisons. However, at 24" you would need a good reflector, which would very significantly boost the light, maybe 30%. Even at 12" a short reflector would be a nice boost.
136V is a strange reading for sure, 34V each, what method are you using to dim it? Do you have confidence in the accuracy of the voltmeter? And were you able to check the current of the LED string and/or power draw at the wall?
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
We will install fans tomorrow
It was no time today to finish it . Supra do know who sells reflectors for cxa3070 ? i use cxa30 metal holders .
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Gotcha, in that case no worries We have a reflectors thread going but it is mostly about DIY reflectors. You can make them out of cardboard, plastic or metal and paint them with Rustoleum White heat paint and get excellent increase in intensity. I believe prefab options are discussed there also.
We have a reflectors thread going but it is mostly about DIY reflectors. You can make them out of cardboard, plastic or metal and paint them with Rustoleum White heat paint and get excellent increase in intensity. I believe prefab options are discussed there also.
Observe & Report
Well-Known Member
high voltage + ungrounded metal frame = bad idea
Thank you !!!Gotcha, in that case no worries
My goal to build led compatible to 1k hps ,below $1k soon is possible ( i know ,you guys put lot of effort to do so ,and i am just follow you footsteps,i am not even sure how outcome will be ) ,because i need bunch of them ,to cover around 2500 sf total .I don't mind to buy at600 ,but price is no go for me
Area 51 was my other thought ,but same thing ,i need 4 of area 51 to match 1 at600 ,price will be almost the same my friend was doing wiring ,and he should grounded it,i will double check it tomorrow
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Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
PAR and cobs had been throwing me for a loop ever since I started dabbling with them. It is not hte same as we usually know it...at least the distance drm the source part. Usually that would translate into penetration. But I am getting just as good if not better penetration from my drone as my at600's. And it is ~12" away giving 600-900µmol...the at600 are ~24" and putting ou 1200µmols.Thank you !!!
My goal to build led compatible to 1k hps ,below $1k soon is possible ( i know ,you guys put lot of effort to do so ,and i am just follow you footsteps,i am not even sure how outcome will be ) ,because i need bunch of them ,to cover around 2500 sf total .I don't mind to buy at600 ,but price is no go for me
Apache uses lenses which collimate and bring almost all the light to the canopy...making the PPF and PPFD closer to matching. But if you take the lenses off...there is no difference in intensity and the cxa's even have a slight advantage...which since they should give off a higher PPF...they should have a slight advantage if all else is equal...like lenses vs lenses, or no lenses vs no lenses.
At this point I have come down to that distance from the source is not as important as I once thought. If I supply the canopy with the right intensity, it translates into the normal growth and penetration I usually associate with hps and at600 distance...even though it is closer to the canopy. A very strange phenomenon that I can't quite explain right now...but am trying and more testing will help clarify. The ability to spread PPFD by design is what I think throws the big wrench in it. When clustered like a bulb of conventional LEDS, they react/perform similar...with higher par numbers at a distance...but sacrificing the spread.
As of now I am going on that PPF is the most important, and actually very telling if you can use some though to see how that PPF will be distributed over the canopy and turned into PPFD(PAR readings).
I am also experimenting with pre made reflectors. But the minimum orders kind of kill the ability to try multiple different one. But they help tremendously with the COBs and will get them even closer to the mid blowing PAR numbers the at600 and gavitas put out.
SO my suggestion after all that is to find the place where you get the best coverage and peak µmols between 500µmols and 900µmols...700µmols is plenty and will make grenade sized nugs no problem.
caretak3r
Well-Known Member
GG, love the info. This probably isn't the right thread for this, but given your observations, how do you think smaller cobs would perform (if output is the same) when compared to larger. Example - MrFlux style vero10 vs someone doing a vero29 or CXA3070 drone. If driven at levels that produce the same output, do you think penetration would be that much better from the Vero29/CXA?
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Yes good info GG I have been wondering about that.
I just did a quick test to simulate your setup with a DIY reflector, not my best reflector because they are already in use, but still great results. This is CXA3070 3K AB @ 1.48A at 12" from the grid:
direct center: 24100->36700lux = +52%
7" off center: 14000-18000 lux = +28.5%
10" off center 8400-10000 = +19%
11" off center 7000->7300 = +4.2%
That should bring a major boost to the 1.4A CXA grows. I put my best reflectors on the 18W CXA3590s I have in veg and it did make a huge difference to penetration. I have some large lenses on order to see if I can get them to perform.
I just did a quick test to simulate your setup with a DIY reflector, not my best reflector because they are already in use, but still great results. This is CXA3070 3K AB @ 1.48A at 12" from the grid:
direct center: 24100->36700lux = +52%
7" off center: 14000-18000 lux = +28.5%
10" off center 8400-10000 = +19%
11" off center 7000->7300 = +4.2%
That should bring a major boost to the 1.4A CXA grows. I put my best reflectors on the 18W CXA3590s I have in veg and it did make a huge difference to penetration. I have some large lenses on order to see if I can get them to perform.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-cob-reflectors.854312/
In a nutshell, the best performing reflector I came up with so far is 2 liter soda bottle. Cone shape works very well also. The best paint performance by far was 2 layers of Rustoleum White Heat paint 7751
SDS experimented with stainless bowls and had some success, although he was not happy with shape overall.
The glass lens that I tested performed surprisingly well but it shifted the color temp toward warmer white so I am not sure how that affected the cheapo luxmeter readings. Also it got very very hot while the reflectors did not.
In a nutshell, the best performing reflector I came up with so far is 2 liter soda bottle. Cone shape works very well also. The best paint performance by far was 2 layers of Rustoleum White Heat paint 7751
SDS experimented with stainless bowls and had some success, although he was not happy with shape overall.
The glass lens that I tested performed surprisingly well but it shifted the color temp toward warmer white so I am not sure how that affected the cheapo luxmeter readings. Also it got very very hot while the reflectors did not.
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AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
Finna have to find me some 2 liter bottles of orange drankkk and follow your lead, Supra
Men ,every time you answer to me ,i learn something new !!! Awesome !
I am wonder what type of led and what single diode wattage at600 use ?
I want to build similar panel with lenses and see how it will stand .I plan to use this for reds : http://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/XPEPHR-L1-0000-00901/?qs=3izLlwrMQ7m6UzXq1Dto%2bA==
as white goes i am still debating ,any advise will be great
sorry for jacking up thread
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Abiqua
Well-Known Member
Yes....i use these for my non hacked Power Supplies, lol, they work good....
DonPetro
Well-Known Member
Right on...ordered some 12v 200mA power supplies and those adapters for my 120mm fans that i got a smokin deal on from newegg.
CatSpeaker
Well-Known Member
Good morning,
Having read this thread and others in the forums, I have a design question.
I'm building a couple lights using 3070s and 3590s.
If I understand the principles correctly the HLG-185-C1050 fits with what I want to do.
I can run 4 3070s or pair of 3590s for each driver. Vf for the 3070s is 38.5 and the 3590s is 77.
Am I reading this right or am I out in the weeds?
Having read this thread and others in the forums, I have a design question.
I'm building a couple lights using 3070s and 3590s.
If I understand the principles correctly the HLG-185-C1050 fits with what I want to do.
I can run 4 3070s or pair of 3590s for each driver. Vf for the 3070s is 38.5 and the 3590s is 77.
Am I reading this right or am I out in the weeds?
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
I believe so, Cat. Your looking to run COBs in series I take it?
CatSpeaker
Well-Known Member
AP, yes that's the plan.
Thank you for the confirmation.
Thank you for the confirmation.
