Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by SupraSPL, Feb 22, 2014.
What would be your recommendation to be able to safely rig this up?
1:1 transformer, it might not be very efficient though. There is always large losses with induction.
Otherwise, I'd double insulate the shit out of it, but not recommended, if something goes wrong, it is mains current straight through somebody touching a live surface.
I light can fall an lay on the floor looking innocent and inconvenient with an internal wire lose, until you try to pick it up and it is live current. Can fuck up your day seriously.
You don't maybe have an inverter you can use to get the 220VAC from a DC supply?
Or maybe you can query the seller if they have a 110V version?
they have 110 v on ebay just have to look
I ordered the 110 version
Four 110v driverless LED's, four 12v PC fans. How would I hook this up?
It is still to be considered very dangerous, make good safe soldered connections with wire knotted and hot glued so it can't get loose.
find out how much current the fans use, get a wall wart that can put out double that for longevity.
I have the hot glue ready. How do I wire and ground that. Do I need a driver? What do I need?
I thought you are using driverless COB?
If you didn't get a heatsink yet, get a large PC heatsink, a quality 3mm tap and a 2.5mm drill bit.
Mark and drill the right spots, and fasten screws half a turn, alternating after tapping. Remember to use thermal paste (as thin as you can get it on).
It only gains you single digit extra degrees C, but I like lapping my heatsinks and whatever I attach to it. even my PC CPUs get lapped. You take a mirror or glass from a frame or something really flat and hard. spray some contact glue on lightly. stick a sheet of 600 sanding paper on, and give it a light go to see where the low and high spots are. Work them away, and replace sanding paper with finer paper until you eventually get to 1000 to 1500 grit. You will be left with two mirror-like surfaces. Squeegee a seethrough thin layer of thermal paste with a safety blade on the heatsink and place your item to be cooled on with rotational motions to smooth it out.
You need to take them apart with the same motion, as the capillary action will suck that bitch on like glue.
Thermal paste is designed to fill microscopic imperfections between two surfaces. Slapping 2mm thick coats on reduces performance.
THE COLDER YOUR COB IS THE MORE LIGHT IT PUTS OUT.
I would run ground to the heatsink and any metal that could touch the live wires in the event of an earthquake even.
Yes. Led COBs
I'm using what I posted in the link on the last page. 50watt full spectrum driverless Cob. I plan on cooling the lights with small PC fans
THose look like shit hey.
999lumens for 50W
the 23W spiral CFLs I like using for seedling and young vegers are circa 1100lm
Wow. Looked right over that
I actually mentioned this twice in my posts about them being 220V 50W 500-999 lumens (at least the ones @Delta-9Pyromaniac linked in their post) and got bucked the whole time. Those are garbage lights, they wont deliver 999 lumens as advertised, and your gonna spend twice what you saved trying to make them work how you are trying to make them work.
You coulda bought (4) standard led light bulbs from Home depot for $1 each that would deliver a comparable 750+ actual lumens with 9 watts each. Likely an additional 10% more lumens once you remove the diffuser.
Lets do some more math now....
4 bulbs @ 9W = 36W total.
750 lumens each x 4 bulbs = 3000 lumens.
Add the additional 10% lumens (300) after the diffuser is removed and you have a total of
3300 actual lumens at 36W for $4 and you dont have to do anything but screw in a lightbulb..
Good luck with your lights.
Thanks. I was looking in to that. Was readingthis
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