DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

sanjuan

Well-Known Member
Hi guys quick grounding question,

I have 3 separate aluminum light fixtures (each with its own driver) that I want to power off of one power cable. I'm using the 5 hole wago connectors.

My plan is to solder 1 ground wire to each of the frames, connect those 3 wires using a wago, and connect that wago to the wago holding the grounds for the power cable and drivers.

I'm posing a picture of what I'm going to do. Is this right?
Looks OK to me. Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician nor an engineer.
 

majins

Well-Known Member
Sorry for asking a bit of a backwards question, Instead of asking what driver im asking what LED for the drivers I have left over.
LPC-60-1750.

I was driving CB binned 3070s but they were only pulling 25W from the wall each which seems a bit of a waste. So switched the drivers for some LPC-60-1400 which now has them pulling 58W from the wall.
Whats some good matched LEDs to power with these drivers.
 

HalfBee

Well-Known Member
Is there any reason you can't use an Enclosed Switching Power Supply such as the Mean Well SE-600-36 to power a bunch of 36 volt cob's wired in parallel? http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=se-600
For that series power supply (not driver) you need the LDD drivers to provide the current you want... but lose 3v in the process...
so you go up to the 48v version at same price point. It can run up to 12 COBs at 1000mA but that's 12 COBs 12LDD 12Heatsink
but can start with 4 and add bars of 4 as you go along for building out after the initial project...

Drive them right or they won't light...
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I'd trust a ground wire to a pass thru connector, in a ground fault situation, i would suspect the Wago to be the weak point, although I don't know their performance compared to a terminal strip. Might be good to check the specs as to max load, etc

Hi guys quick grounding question,

I have 3 separate aluminum light fixtures (each with its own driver) that I want to power off of one power cable. I'm using the 5 hole wago connectors.

My plan is to solder 1 ground wire to each of the frames, connect those 3 wires using a wago, and connect that wago to the wago holding the grounds for the power cable and drivers.

I'm posing a picture of what I'm going to do. Is this right?
 

momo2015

Active Member
Check out these current prices at kingbright on 3070's.

I was thinking about getting 12 of the CXA 3070's @ $18 for my 4x4.
Passive cooling heatsinks and some MW's to drive them.

The CXA looks like a great deal right?

CXA3070, CXB3070 is available, the cost as below:

CREE CXA3070 3000K/30G/AB/80Ra in stock, unit price: 18usd/pcs;

CREE CXB3070 3000K-6500K top bin is available in stock, unit price: 28usd/pcs;
what color do you need?

Pls advise!
Best regards

Vicky Song

Sales Manager
 

HalfBee

Well-Known Member
What do the LDD drivers do aside from limiting the current that a given cob would receive? If I wired up 16x 36volt cobs parallel to an se-600-36 they wouldn't turn on?
The LDDs hold the current steady and give the COBs the voltage they desire at the current (within limits of it's operating capacity)
but it also isolates each COB so you can run as few or many as you want. Do a Parallel search and find why it's advised against.

You specified 36v COBs - would you consider Vero18s? Those will run on the 36v (with LDDs) and would let you run 16 at 1000mA.
Those amps at 36v look nice, but it's not enough to run the 36v COBs with the 3v parasitc drop on the LDDs.

But when you do run 36v CREE on the 48v power supply with LDDs, it doesn't cause strain on the power supply
because you won't ever have it running at maximum capacity, only what the COBs need. Efficiency 90%+ so low heat.

Bucks aren't for everyone... just another DIY plug and play...
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
Ctizen CLU042-1212 equal to or better than a 3070, and at least $5 each cheaper!

https://cobkits.com/product/citizen-clu048-1212-90cri-choice-of-color-temps/

Check out these current prices at kingbright on 3070's.

I was thinking about getting 12 of the CXA 3070's @ $18 for my 4x4.
Passive cooling heatsinks and some MW's to drive them.

The CXA looks like a great deal right?

CXA3070, CXB3070 is available, the cost as below:

CREE CXA3070 3000K/30G/AB/80Ra in stock, unit price: 18usd/pcs;

CREE CXB3070 3000K-6500K top bin is available in stock, unit price: 28usd/pcs;
what color do you need?

Pls advise!
Best regards

Vicky Song

Sales Manager
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
Unless that driver was defective or not adjusted to proper output levels, wired wrong, etc, that's not possible...
Sorry for asking a bit of a backwards question, Instead of asking what driver im asking what LED for the drivers I have left over.
LPC-60-1750.

I was driving CB binned 3070s but they were only pulling 25W from the wall each which seems a bit of a waste. So switched the drivers for some LPC-60-1400 which now has them pulling 58W from the wall.
Whats some good matched LEDs to power with these drivers.
 

Dopaw13

Well-Known Member
hey guys i wanted to ask is there a way to limit a meanwell 185 driver to you 1 cob till i can add more later? or would i have to just buy a small 36v driver for a single cob?
 

majins

Well-Known Member
Unless that driver was defective or not adjusted to proper output levels, wired wrong, etc, that's not possible...
Iv got 2 of them tho so that rules out defective driver. And there no adjustment inside of it.
Checking the current with multi-meter it was 0.68 amps. And the drivers is 34V which would give me 23W. Include driver loss thats about 25W from the wall once the kill-a-wat rounds it to nearest whole number.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
hmm very odd. Is it possible it was a cold solder joint? Just trying to help, there must be an answer

Iv got 2 of them tho so that rules out defective driver. And there no adjustment inside of it.
Checking the current with multi-meter it was 0.68 amps. And the drivers is 34V which would give me 23W. Include driver loss thats about 25W from the wall once the kill-a-wat rounds it to nearest whole number.
 

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
Quick driver question:
I'm making some stripes of supplemental lighting. Making 4 heat sink strips per diode class, so 8 total

What would be the ideal driver(s) to power 4x separate series strips of 7x Cree Far red XPE-730nm (XPEFAR-L1-R250-00701) 250mw diodes (28 diodes total)?
(diodes: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2907)

In addition, which driver(s) would best pair with 4x separate series stripes of 10x Cree deep red XPE 660nm (XPEPHR-L1-0000-00901) diodes (40 diodes total)?
Cree-XPE-STR (http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1868)

It's fine if more multiple drivers are needed in each instance

Really appreciate the help on this one as I really don't want to screw up and buy the wrong drivers
 
Last edited:

ya bongo

Well-Known Member
Quick driver question:
I'm making some stripes of supplemental lighting. Making 4 heat sink strips per diode class, so 8 total

What would be the ideal driver(s) to power 4x separate series strips of 7x Cree Far red XPE-730nm (XPEFAR-L1-R250-00701) 250mw diodes (28 diodes total)?
(diodes: http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut2907)

In addition, which driver(s) would best pair with 4x separate series stripes of 10x Cree deep red XPE 660nm (XPEPHR-L1-0000-00901) diodes (40 diodes total)?
Cree-XPE-STR (http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1868)

It's fine if more multiple drivers are needed in each instance

Really appreciate the help on this one as I really don't want to screw up and buy the wrong drivers
any idea at what current you will run them?
 
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