Positivity
Well-Known Member
Did a little defoliation, time to just let them fill in
DIY led grow
- Thread starter Positivity
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Positivity
Well-Known Member
Little update..
noticing some interesting developments from uv being on all 12hrs. Pink stigmas on 4/5 strains, seems to be on the tops with the most uv exposure. Also getting some leaf yellowing on the more light exposed plant areas. Probably a little to do with led light intensity but im pretty sure the uv on all 12 hrs at close range has the most to do with that.
in the future I'm thinking close range uv needs to be about 4hrs...at least with the high output Arcadia UVB bulbs. In the meantime I'll let the uv run and see how everything finishes..
noticing some interesting developments from uv being on all 12hrs. Pink stigmas on 4/5 strains, seems to be on the tops with the most uv exposure. Also getting some leaf yellowing on the more light exposed plant areas. Probably a little to do with led light intensity but im pretty sure the uv on all 12 hrs at close range has the most to do with that.
in the future I'm thinking close range uv needs to be about 4hrs...at least with the high output Arcadia UVB bulbs. In the meantime I'll let the uv run and see how everything finishes..
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
Lookz amazing....
Just a refresher....that is a reptile bulb providing the UV-B output isnt it?
im about to play around with a UV-A LED and its effects on the 'cryptochromes'
Just a refresher....that is a reptile bulb providing the UV-B output isnt it?
im about to play around with a UV-A LED and its effects on the 'cryptochromes'
Positivity
Well-Known Member
It's a t5 HO floro tube. This one..http://www.arcadia-reptile.com/fluorescent-lamps/t5-d3plus-desert/
the 2' 22w version....12% UVB 30% UVA. Seems to provide a useful spectra otherwise not found in most lights.
Output is 548 u/w at 10cm. That's where a quarter of the canopy is at. Supposed to keep it at around 250 u/w on the high end I think...need to recheck that number.
In the future I have some plans to redo the flower chamber to get the lighting at proper ranges. I think that will be when it all comes together.
the 2' 22w version....12% UVB 30% UVA. Seems to provide a useful spectra otherwise not found in most lights.
Output is 548 u/w at 10cm. That's where a quarter of the canopy is at. Supposed to keep it at around 250 u/w on the high end I think...need to recheck that number.
In the future I have some plans to redo the flower chamber to get the lighting at proper ranges. I think that will be when it all comes together.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Pretty cool how you're getting the purple pistols, and great results so far. Any updates on this grow?
Do you think it's the UVB or UVA causing the purpling?
Chronikool, Do you have a thread where you show the UV-A leds in action? I've always wondered about 400nm and 430nm to hit cryptochrome absorbance peaks.
In fact, considering that chlorophyll A has a peak of 430nm which quickly tapers, I can't understand why everyone just accepts 460nm emitter peaks as "blue" and that all blue is the same. 460-470nm theoretically doesn't absorb nearly as well as 430nm just according to absorbance charts, nor does it stimulate cryptochromes as well.
Do you think it's the UVB or UVA causing the purpling?
Chronikool, Do you have a thread where you show the UV-A leds in action? I've always wondered about 400nm and 430nm to hit cryptochrome absorbance peaks.
In fact, considering that chlorophyll A has a peak of 430nm which quickly tapers, I can't understand why everyone just accepts 460nm emitter peaks as "blue" and that all blue is the same. 460-470nm theoretically doesn't absorb nearly as well as 430nm just according to absorbance charts, nor does it stimulate cryptochromes as well.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Not sure if it's uv a/b. I did read somewhere that some plant reactions don't occur in the presence of just a or b..it took the two in combination. Should have saved the study. Can't think what else would have caused it. Lots of lights have blue leds so I'm pretty sure it's not that.
I just noticed a bunch of tops shooting out some fox tails. Not sure what that's all about, not a growth I was looking for. Otherwise everything's doing pretty good. I'll post some new pics next chance I get
I just noticed a bunch of tops shooting out some fox tails. Not sure what that's all about, not a growth I was looking for. Otherwise everything's doing pretty good. I'll post some new pics next chance I get
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Day 35
plants are a little mad at me. Cut the n out early, small pots on a few plants, and 12 hours of the uv up too close are leaving them a bit more beat up then I like.
the biggest thing right now is some fox tailing and looseness of structure. I went from tight clusters to a little more airy, and a bit of tops sending out a loose shoot. I'm thinking the royal blue definitely needs to go in this mostly white setup. Probably take out all blues except for 430nm and 405nm...may even add a few more of these.
It is quite amazing how small lighting adjustments can have such a effect on growth. All in fun and lots being learned
plants are a little mad at me. Cut the n out early, small pots on a few plants, and 12 hours of the uv up too close are leaving them a bit more beat up then I like.
the biggest thing right now is some fox tailing and looseness of structure. I went from tight clusters to a little more airy, and a bit of tops sending out a loose shoot. I'm thinking the royal blue definitely needs to go in this mostly white setup. Probably take out all blues except for 430nm and 405nm...may even add a few more of these.
It is quite amazing how small lighting adjustments can have such a effect on growth. All in fun and lots being learned
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Looks okay, not as nice as all deep red though. Gonna start using the cree cxa but on a seperate light. One light regular leds..one light cxa. Figure just interchange them between veg room and bloom room....whichever tech is doing better gets the flower room 
Blue leds are out. The looseness it brought to the tops is obvious...no thank you. I will try some 630nm before I go back to all 660nm...maybe 40w 630nm and 60w 660nm. See if I like that better than all 660nm....
Blue leds are out. The looseness it brought to the tops is obvious...no thank you. I will try some 630nm before I go back to all 660nm...maybe 40w 630nm and 60w 660nm. See if I like that better than all 660nm....
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
The following quote is from 5/2012.Current NW (and WW) offerings are even better
"As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right' ) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'."
IMO 3:1 630/660
"As one can see, the CREE Neutral White (I call it 'Goldilocks', because it's almost 'just right' ) has a RSPD that still allows nearly ~25% of its total power in the blue range (and plants only really 'need' ~8-10%), and more that 1/3 of which (i.e. the area under the curve) is over ~580nm or so (which has a Photosynthetic RS of over 90%!) - which is much better than even your typical 'Enhanced HPS'."
IMO 3:1 630/660
Looks okay, not as nice as all deep red though. Gonna start using the cree cxa but on a seperate light. One light regular leds..one light cxa. Figure just interchange them between veg room and bloom room....whichever tech is doing better gets the flower room
Blue leds are out. The looseness it brought to the tops is obvious...no thank you. I will try some 630nm before I go back to all 660nm...maybe 40w 630nm and 60w 660nm. See if I like that better than all 660nm....
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Positivity
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the quote pet, I remember seeing that somewhere. Just wanted to see if the extra blues would bring out any qualities I liked. Not quite. Lots of foxtails..
Back to white and red, little bit of 405 and 430. Putting a few 3up luxeon red 620nm and a few singles. Reflectors going back on for next round too. Got a 4 x 2 gorilla tent....no more height problems and a little extra wiggle room. Have a new soil mix composting, meant to be run no till. Just dig it out and replant in 5g geopots. Full of good stuff like peat, coco, vermiculite, topsoil, fresh castings, rock powders...etc. I see bud nirvana in the future...at least till I mess up my reammending...lol. First round should be fire
Back to white and red, little bit of 405 and 430. Putting a few 3up luxeon red 620nm and a few singles. Reflectors going back on for next round too. Got a 4 x 2 gorilla tent....no more height problems and a little extra wiggle room. Have a new soil mix composting, meant to be run no till. Just dig it out and replant in 5g geopots. Full of good stuff like peat, coco, vermiculite, topsoil, fresh castings, rock powders...etc. I see bud nirvana in the future...at least till I mess up my reammending...lol. First round should be fire
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Do you think there could have been a light leak? Nothing went wrong with the timers I'm assuming?
Are you going to be using this same thread for the third grow? Have you considered making a second and making a signature with links to both threads?
I'm really interested to see how the next one turns out. Sorry for all the questions.
Are you going to be using this same thread for the third grow? Have you considered making a second and making a signature with links to both threads?
I'm really interested to see how the next one turns out. Sorry for all the questions.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
It's a tradition of mine to have at least one timer incident per grow..lol. I don't think it has much to do with fox tailing though, maybe in a extreme instance of timer mishaps. Next grow the tops should dense right back up...at least I predict.
Was thinking of just running this one thread. Any benefits to splitting it up? I don't usually post that often so didn't really think it necessary. Haven't taken the time to figure out the sigs either, still pretty new to posting on forums. Usually I just read what people are nice enough to share.
Was thinking of just running this one thread. Any benefits to splitting it up? I don't usually post that often so didn't really think it necessary. Haven't taken the time to figure out the sigs either, still pretty new to posting on forums. Usually I just read what people are nice enough to share.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
I did notice that when I ran hps also. I think in that case it was more the radiant heat. This is a little different though. My coco kush which I always grow came out completely different this go. It's also the only plant this grow I have experience with. It grew completely different from any other time and was much further from light than the last grow. EVERY top had a stretched out foxtail...and the other plants also had strange foxtails.
the only thing that could have caused that in my thinking is excess blue. My uv was on 12 hrs versus 6..but I don't think it's that. I had tops right next to the uv last run and not one foxtail.
My light has 22 warm whites and 10 neutral white xmls. I added in 3 3up luxeons with 2 470nm and 1 450nm each. Also added 4 single 450nm. 470nm is 2.3w each 6 total...about 14w. 450nm is 2w each 7 total....about 14w. So I think that 28w of blue, whether it was the cool or royal I don't know, was the cause of a obvious change in bud structure.
here's a compare shot of the two seperate runs. It's much more obvious in person...the new foxtail shot isn't the best.
the only thing that could have caused that in my thinking is excess blue. My uv was on 12 hrs versus 6..but I don't think it's that. I had tops right next to the uv last run and not one foxtail.
My light has 22 warm whites and 10 neutral white xmls. I added in 3 3up luxeons with 2 470nm and 1 450nm each. Also added 4 single 450nm. 470nm is 2.3w each 6 total...about 14w. 450nm is 2w each 7 total....about 14w. So I think that 28w of blue, whether it was the cool or royal I don't know, was the cause of a obvious change in bud structure.
here's a compare shot of the two seperate runs. It's much more obvious in person...the new foxtail shot isn't the best.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Cree should just make a agro cob. Whites,a few reds, a few violet....they would own the market.
kinda think this shows how adding monochromatic to whites can have a significant impact on overall performance of grow lights. Blue and white will veg better than an all white and red and white will flower better than a all white.
kinda think this shows how adding monochromatic to whites can have a significant impact on overall performance of grow lights. Blue and white will veg better than an all white and red and white will flower better than a all white.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
I can't help but think whites have enough blue in them regardless of kelvin when it comes to flowering. If adding blues you'd really have to pay attention to the percentages or end up with looser structure.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Mr Flux was kind enough to do that calculus. He found that the Veros were surprisingly low in blue compared to Crees of similar color temp. Here are a few of the popular ones:
XML2 3700K
Blue : 24% power, 20% flux
Red : 13% power, 16% flux
XML2 5000K
Blue : 30% power, 25% flux
Red : 10% power, 12% flux
Vero 3000K
Blue : 8% power, 6% flux
Red : 27% power, 30% flux
Vero 4000K
Blue : 13% power, 10% flux
Red : 23% power, 25% flux
Vero 5000K
Blue : 22% power, 18% flux
Red : 15% power, 17% flux
XTE 2200K
Blue : 7% power, 5% flux
Red : 31% power, 33% flux
XTE 3700K
Blue : 17% power, 14% flux
Red : 21% power, 24% flux
XTE 5000K
Blue : 31% power, 26% flux
Red : 11% power, 13% flux
CXA 3000K
Blue : 10% power, 8% flux
Red : 24% power, 27% flux
CXA 4000K
Blue : 19% power, 16% flux
Red : 17% power, 20% flux
CXA 5000K
Blue : 24% power, 20% flux
Red : 14% power, 17% flux
XML2 3700K
Blue : 24% power, 20% flux
Red : 13% power, 16% flux
XML2 5000K
Blue : 30% power, 25% flux
Red : 10% power, 12% flux
Vero 3000K
Blue : 8% power, 6% flux
Red : 27% power, 30% flux
Vero 4000K
Blue : 13% power, 10% flux
Red : 23% power, 25% flux
Vero 5000K
Blue : 22% power, 18% flux
Red : 15% power, 17% flux
XTE 2200K
Blue : 7% power, 5% flux
Red : 31% power, 33% flux
XTE 3700K
Blue : 17% power, 14% flux
Red : 21% power, 24% flux
XTE 5000K
Blue : 31% power, 26% flux
Red : 11% power, 13% flux
CXA 3000K
Blue : 10% power, 8% flux
Red : 24% power, 27% flux
CXA 4000K
Blue : 19% power, 16% flux
Red : 17% power, 20% flux
CXA 5000K
Blue : 24% power, 20% flux
Red : 14% power, 17% flux