DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Link to the manufacturer: http://www.led-heatsink.com.


Nothing to cool the room, only a softbox of 1500m3 running at half the speed.
Nice heatsink fan combo! I almost went that route, remember seeing those at one point.

Would be nice to see a comparison of that versus the arctic 11 run at different currents

May have to get one for a 3590 and see how well it can cool it
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
The XPL should be great for vegging. One thing that jumps out to me, the XPL offers top bin cool white tints on fasttech which are not available in xml2, great for cloning. But on BLF there was some controversy about the output of the XPL vs XML2. The best XPLs are supposed to be more efficient than the best XML2s but are they in practice? The xml2 is a larger chip which seems like it would hold an advantage regarding current droop and thermal path. Definitely worth looking into.
 

reasonevangelist

Well-Known Member
that got me excited for a minute... then i realized none of those listed have stock on the top bin 2700k or 3000k. I wonder when/if those will ever become available in singles... then again, despite the appeal of the increased size of the 3590, that's a lot of voltage, and idk if i'm comfortable w/ that. My 3070s seem sufficient, though a couple more might be twice as nice...

Oh wait, i just realized they have stats listed for running the 3590 w/ lower voltage and higher current... oh well, it's not relevant yet anyway. :)
 

reasonevangelist

Well-Known Member
You have gaping holes with 115rms voltage on yours walls.

It's not that scary.
lol, "out of sight, out of mind..."

I stare at my lamp and wiring daily; i rarely see inside my walls. I try not to think about what is probably crawling around in there, just on the other side of a mere layer of sheet-rock.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Ya I hear that, I am always working around my lamps bumping my head on them and handling them and they have bare solder points because I have no worries about 36V. But if I swicthed to HLG-185H drivers or CXa3590s I would have to cover all the solder points very thoroughly (hundreds) and be wary of the hundreds of connections hanging everywhere. To make matters worse I wired the entire thing with 50V hookup wire so I would either have to risk that or redo hundreds of crimp/shrink connections.

So in my case at least it is a done deal, but I can see the advantage for those who can set up for it. The HLG-185H drivers are 94% efficient and simplify the wiring quite a bit. The CXA3590s would also simplify the build, although they might benefit from reflectors and increased headroom whereas the 3070s can run vey well bare.
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Not advising anyone to shock themselves..lol. But..I did touch both ends on a star under high voltage and got a little zap. Maybe since the driver is 200w and not 400w plus it wasn't so bad? No idea how that works. I'd imagine they have capped it at 250w as the largest so far on inventronics that I've seen for safety reasons. In a large build I'd think earth leakage circuit breakers would help a lot in safety.


As far as fans I put grill guards on mine just to keep wires, fingers, and anything loose out of the fan. Not sure if they'd fit on the coolers but if they did it'd be a little cheap insurance.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_13?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=fan+grill+120mm&sprefix=Fan+grill+120,aps,521
 

reasonevangelist

Well-Known Member
Ya I hear that, I am always working around my lamps bumping my head on them and handling them and they have bare solder points because I have no worries about 36V. But if I swicthed to HLG-185H drivers or CXa3590s I would have to cover all the solder points very thoroughly (hundreds) and be wary of the hundreds of connections hanging everywhere. To make matters worse I wired the entire thing with 50V hookup wire so I would either have to risk that or redo hundreds of crimp/shrink connections. So in my case at least it is a done deal LOL.
I just a few days ago, finally got around to moving my drivers out of the tent, doing a wire tuck, and getting everything positioned as optimally as possible. Now i can relax a bit, focus on monitoring the situation, and plot my next adjustments without haste.
 

happy75

Well-Known Member
The XPL should be great for vegging. One thing that jumps out to me, the XPL offers top bin cool white tints on fasttech which are not available in xml2, great for cloning. But on BLF there was some controversy about the output of the XPL vs XML2. The best XPLs are supposed to be more efficient than the best XML2s but are they in practice? The xml2 is a larger chip which seems like it would hold an advantage regarding current droop and thermal path. Definitely worth looking into.
On candlepowerforum there was a guy who tested them both. Here is his chart regarding the xpl and xml.
 

MrFlux

Well-Known Member
The graph nicely shows that XP-L has less current droop (from better process/design) but also a worse I-V diode characteristic (from smaller junction area). From eyeballing the curves the two effects roughly cancel out, giving XP-L and XM-L2 about equal efficiency. Speculating a little, it seems Cree is using it's superior process to cut costs by using smaller dies, instead of making higher efficiency products. Intel has a similar strategy of 'holding back' when there is no competition in the high performance segment.
 

guod

Well-Known Member
The graph nicely shows that XP-L has less current droop (from better process/design) but also a worse I-V diode characteristic (from smaller junction area). From eyeballing the curves the two effects roughly cancel out, giving XP-L and XM-L2 about equal efficiency. Speculating a little, it seems Cree is using it's superior process to cut costs by using smaller dies, instead of making higher efficiency products. Intel has a similar strategy of 'holding back' when there is no competition in the high performance segment.
same Die-Size (2x2mm), different Footprint
1401046787909559.gif
 

happy75

Well-Known Member
Well....my "silent mode" (all fans off for three days because girlfriend was at my place) was not a success..two leds broke..dammn. I think that one power source for 5 drivers and one potmeter to dimm the voltage would be a solution. Is that even possible? Don't know much of electricity. Has anyone a good instruction?

By the way...does anyone have a 3070 5000k high bin laying around? Need one for business project.
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Well....my "silent mode" (all fans off for three days because girlfriend was at my place) was not a success..two leds broke..dammn. I think that one power source for 5 drivers and one potmeter to dimm the voltage would be a solution. Is that even possible? Don't know much of electricity. Has anyone a good instruction?

By the way...does anyone have a 3070 5000k high bin laying around? Need one for business project.
I run 4 off 1 pot, plus a few stars. There's a few different combos you could do with 200w drivers depending on current.

That would help you to shut the fans down for sure. At least turn them down to minimal might be even better. Some airflow is good. No airflow requires really low currents and watts on small heatsinks

Good info on the cxas..thanks. I wondered how they'd do in a really hot situation. Looks like cooling is still very important for longetivity. These chips ain't cheap!

Edit....sorry..looks like you were asking of a different way. Not sure if that's possible. Might be an idea to just have a switch on the fans to control the speed. Could lower it to a more tolerable level?

That's when dimmable drivers AND fans come in really handy. Some features you may want to implement in the future
 
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