Well, those of you that know me realize I'm not a computer guy so this may take a while. The only reason to build your own table is if you can't buy one to fit the space you have. The first table I used was purchased from the local hydro shop. It's 1 meter square, 20 station drip system and came with everything, except an air pump and a cover for the resevior. And I do mean everything, coco, nutes and ph drops. Cost $250.00 and well worth it. The seperate components would be that much without the frame. Problem with it is the size. 40" x 4 would be too big for the area I have and the resevoir sits in front of the table so no adjustments I could think of would help. I knew I could follow the blueprint (the table sitting there) soo.....then I ran into AL B Fuct's journal "How to get a harvest every two weeks". Caught my attention and I deciced to try it. It require four tables in flowering and a flood and drian system. He gets a harvest of 13-16 oz every two weeks. Enough said. Soo....I went to the lumber yard and got the following, 2-8' 2x10's 6-8' 2x4's 1- 4'by8' 1/2 plywood, good one side. I had them make two cuts across the plywood, giving me thre 32" by 48" pieces. So I alreay have the plywood for two more tables. I also got POND LINER. They have it in all different sizes or by the linear ft. The better quality one the had is 15' long. I bought 4-linear ft. again giving me enough to do two more tables. The fourth one is still in progress. Because of the space I have (long story) I also bought 4-swivel casters and two stationary caster. Flood and Drain fittings were purchased at the local Hydro Shop, less than $20.00, along with 2- 1/2" shut off valves and 1- 1/2"by1/2"by1/2" tee. The other plumbing parts are for my convenience and are not necessary, you wouldn't really need two shut-off valves either, I just thing its cool and it is more convenient so I justfied the extra $20.00. I bought two push elbows at Menards along with a 40 gallon resevoir ($13.99) I already had some little electrical mounts and wire ties. I had plenty of screws from a couple of deck building projects. a 25# box of deck screws is about the same cost as 3-5# boxes. If you don't have any you will need to buy a 5# box of 2-1/2" deck screws. The grade just below stainless steel will work, about $25.00. This table will end up being 35" wide by 51" long with inside demensions of 32" by 48". You could put 24- 1 gallon pots on it, I going with 20 and a 600 watt equivalent light. My yield from the first crop in this table was just under 500grams from those 20 plants. Then I made my cuts. Stay with me Major. 2-48" 2x10's (length) 2-35" 2x10's (width) 14-32" 2x4's (10 for legs and 4 for cross braces.) 2-45" 2x4's (Braces for lenght) 4-14" 2x4's (corner leg stabilizers) 2-14 1/2" 2x4's (center leg stablizers) Procedure: Fasten the width boards to the end of the lenght boards. For the corner legs fasten two 32" long 2x4's at right angles. Mark off 4" and attach to the table frame leaving 28" of leg exposed. Install the lenght stabilizers 14" from the bottom of the legs. Install width braces, one on each end, just inside the corner legs and 2-4" apart (2"from center) this gives you the room for the flood and drain fittings. Mark the center legs off 3 1/2" and install leaving 28 1/2" exposed. Install corner leg stabilizers. Install center leg stabilizers. Install swivel casters on the corner legs. Install stationary caster on the center legs. Turn the wobbly table over. You will notice it kinda rocks from end to end. But you can turn it. I stole the idea from home depot. Thier lumber carts are built that way. 1/2" blocks form the plywood your gonna cut will level it when its in place, and removing them will let you move the table. I figure its easier to roll a table of plants than it is to move 30 gallons of water. Mark and cut your plywood to go around the legs. I know it makes the pond liner a little harder to install but it adds stability. If you don't have a saber saw you can use a circular saw. Just drill holes at the corners of your marks and cut to the mark. For the center leg cut, start with your circular saw resting on the plywood with the blade up in the air. Pull the guard backand hold it up, start the saw and slowly lower it down. A little less convenient that a saber saw but it will work. Lay the plywood on top of the width braces. You won't have to fasten it down. I did. Flood and Drain Installation. The way you do this will of course be dependant on the set you buy. You will have to have a whole big enough for your set to go through. I know you won't believe it at this point, I like things neat. So I counter sank my fittings to give me a nice flat surface. Placement of the fittings will depend on the pots you are using so you need to check that out. For my fittings this is what I did. 1 7/8" fostner bit to remove one ply of the plywood 1 1/4" fostner bit to drill the whole the rest of the way through. Install pond liner. I just folded and staple it in. I used a 4' by 5' piece. Cut small hole in pond liner and install the flood and drain fittings, hand tight should do it. Install plumbing. I fill that 40 gallon resevoir to 35 gallons and use a 396 gph pump for this table. You can adjust lenght, width and height to fit your situation. I have 10' high ceiling in this flowering area and this height gives me roomfor the resevior and makes the table about 40" high, 7 1/2" deep. The pots I use end up just about level with the top of the table. Makes working with the plants much easier for this old man. For those of youu that are die hard hps fans you would want a 600 watter. I purchased a 4' long 8 tube T-5 flourescent light. I put two blue and 6 red spectrum bulbs in it, $240.00 including the bulbs. The jury is still out on that. I like what I see. It is cooler above that table than it is above the tables I have 400 watt hps lights. There just about a year old soo..its time to upgrade. Besides they look so cool and neat. Anyone reading this that wants to help me out by editing the pictures to fit the topic, please do so.