Dehumidification/Desiccation Techniques For Extraction Material And Winterized Oil??

So I would like to be sure that I am not damaging my material or oils by some of the techniques i use to prepare both trim/buds which I will soon start to freeze along with my butane pre extraction . I use the same techniques to try and dry out oils with low or no heat using a small room with a dehumidifier going and in certain areas where i try to make some winterized absolute shards/sheets using trays that hold some oil with non toxic dessicant pellets in close proximity to the oil ,as well as a fan blowing on it. But so far this has failed to produce touchable oil after days of extreme dryness and a short heat purge (less than 1 hr at 105F or less and a short vac at same or lower temps to vaporize the majority of my etoh) .However the material I winterized was old and not the best quality + it had old keif extracted with the buds/trim and i am wondering if this is more why my oil wont fully set up as absolute(possibly partially decarbed due to age). I am going to run some tests on much nicer material we extracted with no keif in the extract, using the same low temp , dry air desiccant purge, after a short vac purge at low temp as well (95F max) at 1-2 hrs (until most solvent bubbles seem gone). Hoping I get better results. Does anyone know if there is such a thing as too much dehumidification on extraction material?? I'm not as worried about it damaging the winterized oil since the temps are low and its just an ultra dry environment unless someone can give me a reason , other then longer purge times , not t do it this way.... I am trying to find that medium between weeks of air drying alone, and short vac/heat purge at low temp with a few days of air drying to get to an absolute... any tips would rock!!
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
I like 115F in a thin film at -29.5" Hg until the solvent bubbles are gone, and then let air harden. It takes less than an hour for the purge, but sometimes a couple of days for the film to turn to a hard varnish, depending on weather conditions.

Putting the material in a dessicant chamber would speed up removal of the final volatiles, which will include some of the remaining monoterpenes.

Many folks like the sweet flavor of a slight hint of ethanol, combined with higher monoterpenes, so they use the Absolute while it is still taffy, and easier to handle.
 
The taffy form ive had the easiest time getting of course, got some hard taffy that may turn to a hard varnish with some time, out of the better material, which is what i expected. I kind of agree that the flavor profiles are better when not fully hardened and im not sure why some people find it so hard to work with, but it seems that because of the waxheads out there, to please them with absolute its gotta be very touchable, and so, if for nothing else im trying to perfect that. Personally i am one of those that i think prefers the pull and snap stage. Here are my first pics of some easy to work with winterized taffy, you can see from both pics it will hold a shape some but its soft at room temp still.Photo on 2013-12-26 at 23.29 #2.jpgPhoto on 2013-12-26 at 23.29 #3.jpg
 
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