deficiency showing up week 6 of flower...under current

So I'm running current culture systems. Using their cultured solutions nutes. Running about 1lpg air manufacure specs (38lpm pump on 30/35gallons water)

Ph is very stable, ppms are under 500 (they recommend low mom's and I've had plans kill it in the first 2-3 weeks of flower at only 200-250 ppm on 500 scale)

I run 0 ppm RO water with uv filter. Grown soil for over 5 years and killed it, I've been learning these sustem for about a year now and have all but this deficiency figured out... Hopefully after this I can really dial it in. They are a dream to run from ease standpoint one figured out.

I use cultured solutions A&B
Cultured solutions mid boost
1ml per gallon of calimagic
And have been using .5ml per gallon of pro-tekt silica on fresh res changes.

I do a res change no later than every 14 days ripping off with nutrient water.

The last harvest the deficiency got so bad that it rurned parts of the upper buds brown. Looked burnt.... Pain having to go over all the buds so closely to cut the burnt tips off.

Current culture guys said my ppm was too high because I was running twice as much air per system before I took their recommendation and pulled a pump off each system. They said at over 2lpm per gallon it was almost impossible not to burn with any nutrient strength....

Anyways this round has been grown with just the one air pump rated at 38lpm...

Here are the pics, the deficiency usually spreads in past experience.

Also the cc guys say not to use more than 1 ml per gallon of calmag....

The last pic shows some plants 3 weeks behind at 3 weeks flower (they were the ones crushing it on 250 ppm)

I don't see any deficiency till around week 6. Mostly see it on the tips of the plant and new growth.

I also don't get the overall yields I know are possible... I honestly did better overall on soil although some plants yield over 8z...

What do you think it is, I'm at a loss! Maybe the ppm shouldn't go higher than 400 with my air input?!

Current culture guys said with my air situation I should use 25% less than the high feed chart which I have.

Add the whiteboard pic shows ph & ppm are stable... No offence but please don't cone in if you are unfamiliar with these systems or are a noob

Thanks guys sorry for the ramble but these are my babies and I take more pride in them than you know

Also seems like the deficiency shows up more on buds facing the light at the tops, but I don't think it's light burn, it's not bleaching that's for sure. It's clearly a deficiency... But like I said the cc guys said my ppm was too high... They made the impression that pulling one air pump and lowering the nutrients by 25% would solve it.... Although it's happening again it doesn't look as bad add it has been. Roots look good too, no slime... I forgot to mention I use their uc roots

Room temps are 76 rh at 40-50

I just don't want this to progress further than it is now...

I have the late bloom ( high pk) that I haven't been using. They call for higher levels of mid bloom without it which I use. I'm wondering if using this would help, maybe they are low on p-k?

In the picture it shows your pH. Do you allow the pH to drift are do you keep it constantly at 5.8?

Do you know what the deficiency is, as in the picture it looks like a calcium deficiency?

I looked and i cant find much of anything out of whack with what your saying or the setup. The light looks a little close on the one but its air cooled sooo... Idk, i like 5-3-10 in flower but your running 3-3-10 so that aint far off.... Calmags there....
Wind burn from fans maybe? Or heat stress?
Have you tried just jacking up the feed to see if it makes a difference? You say youve done nothing but feed low so why not try kicking it up to see if it helps or hurts. Id say it would be tough to go any lower with feed so maybe higher.

I was going to say feed more too. If you're on the 0.7 EC scale, 400-500 is pretty low. I'd go up to about 900.

I've used higher feed in the past with more issues. They say low ppm or else it will look like they are being underfed...

Any more insight?

Slimjimham said:

I've used higher feed in the past with more issues. They say low ppm or else it will look like they are being underfed...

Any more insight?

Click to expand...

I dont get how feeding more will make it look under fed.
I dont think your going to find an answer from anyone here thats goimg to understand the problem. We all know what works for other dwc systems under current or not.
You over feed a plant and it looks over fed, not under fed. Good luck

Is anyone running rdwc or better yet the current culture that can give the the nutrient recipe that's giving them good success. Pictures would be great too.

Thanks.

Its spreading and I need to figure it out asap. Starting to wonder if the cultured solutions nutrient line is the problem. I'm using so little it should be simple.

Calimagic @1 ml per gallon
Uc roots
A&b
Mid bloom

I mean fuck why am I getting deficiency if I'm following the chart so closely. Shits so simple if the nutrients were properly formulated I don't think I'd be seeing this????

Ph/ppm stable, roots look good... Could be better but good. No slime or anything

What are you guys thinking?

And I'm on the 500 scale when I talk ppm. I know the numbers are low but that's what they recommend...

I'm running a diy undercurrent, and everything you are mentioning looks good to me. Is it the same strain that is showing this def? ph and ec look good as well. The only thing I can think of is perhaps you can try and run a higher ph, like 6.0-6.2 for a tiny bit and see if that helps out. Mine liked 5.5-5.8 in veg and really like 6.0-6.3 in flower. It seems like you never got above 6.0 ph according to your chart, that's the only variable I see that could be a viable option.

Are you topping off with straight water or nutes/water?

Just saying that my ppm is currently at about 1300, and I'm only still in veg.
I use advanced nutrients at a ratio of 2ml/litre grow, 2ml/litre micro, and 1.5ml/litre grow.
I find that using tap water is best because it contains many micro-nutrients that the plant can use.
My ph is 5.8-9, temps in tent around 26c, humidity around 65%.
I personally think you should switch to tap water, and apply your nutrients in a similar ratio to mine, or a 2-2-1 bloom/micro/grow seeing as you're in flower, with a ppm no higher than 1400.
Took this video earlier:

Didn't see these replies till now, if you haven't seen in other threads I recently switched to canna aqua flores and as you say they recommend higher ppms, so I'm going to try pump everything up (around 1100 max in flower), I've also switched from 1ml per gallon of calimagic (using 0 ppm ro water) to now 4ml per gallon of calimagic (300ppm) on gh and cannas recommendation.

We'll see how it goes, I think either they weren't getting the calmag they needed from too little or the ratios werent right... I've had many runs where ph sits closer to the 6.2/6.3 range before with the sane deficiency issues...

What's everyone using for a base calmag ppm with RO water? 300 (500 scale) sounds a bit high, might dial it back to 250 ppm of calimagic if things seen good but don't want to switch up too much too soon...

This is the chart I'm going to run, no rhizotonic, using 200ml boost and 150ml cannazyme....

Chart accounts for the base 300ppm I'm using of calimagic... What do you think?

I would IMO bumb yo Calmag up. To me it looks like it's a calcium or magnesium deficiency. My water from tap is pretty low here where I live and early on when I started growing dwc I had the the Calmag problem as well until I started adding Calmag and the problem ceased. With your ppm that low and the manufacturer says that 500ppm in flower is recommended and to cut your air supply down is unheard of. I pump my plants with as much air to the roots as possible and never had any problems. That must be some real strong nutrients for a ppm of only 500. 500 ppm is what I use in early veg stage and late flower for flushing. I would definitely up your Calmag 1ml is real low, but when you do up your Calmag I always do that last because it will raise your ppm levels considerably. Add nutes check ppm then add Calmag and check ppm is my method

So it seems I'm still having the same issue (on plants I switched nutrients mid way through flower anyways)

This last round I cut down that was changed at week 5 came out much better and with less deficiency (deficiency send to start at week 5/6 of flower) and great yield.

But the plants 1 week behind those (so they got an extra week of the new nutrients with more calmag) have the burn bad... I can't rule out much because they were switched mid way through flower but I'm at a loss. It seems when I try to go to 900ppm on the 500 scale the plants stop eating, so it seems they like 800ppm and under. (1.6 ec)

Here's a pic of the worst plant in the upcoming round. Only thing I did that might have caused it was I was using 200ppm of calmag on these for the first 2 weeks or so then upped it to 250/300 ppm calmag.... Tried to go closer to 1000ppm but they didn't seem to eat much at that strength...

Does it seem way off to use 250ppm calimagic and 550ppm base nutrients (canna a/b)?

I'm like an inch away from switching everything back to soil but I've got so much invested in the hydro systems...

Hopefully it turns out to be a bit funky doom switching the nutrients/amount of calmag but I think something is still off... So again these were switched to canna nutrients with 3/4 ml per gallon of calimagic vs the old low ppm nitrients at 1ml per galon calmag week 4 and earlier...

Btw you can't really see it but the actual bud is all burnt to fuck. Had a grow shop owner/grower say it looks like a phosphorus deficiency and that I'm feeding too low, but like I said when I dial it up to 900 ppm or more they seem to stop eating... 800 and under the ppm drops steadily.

This is an old pic of the old nutrients but it shows the burn on the bud better... Starts off at wk 6 on the leaves as spotting then progress to actually burn the bud. PLEAAAAASE help me figure this out!!!!

These are current pictures of it starting on week 6 of the round behind these...

Can you tell I'm frustrated and freaking out???

Every fucking time, plants look awesome, then week 6 flower it's the same song. Like I said these plants are just starting to show the issues, I'd love to fix the issue so I don't have to maticulously manicure buds and cut off burnt tips... Fuuuuck

And this round is showing some leaf tacoing captured in the pics that's new I think... Greaaaaaat.

Save me from going back to soil!

Alienwidow said:

I looked and i cant find much of anything out of whack with what your saying or the setup. The light looks a little close on the one but its air cooled sooo... Idk, i like 5-3-10 in flower but your running 3-3-10 so that aint far off.... Calmags there....
Wind burn from fans maybe? Or heat stress?
Have you tried just jacking up the feed to see if it makes a difference? You say youve done nothing but feed low so why not try kicking it up to see if it helps or hurts. Id say it would be tough to go any lower with feed so maybe higher.

Click to expand...

I had similar problems with my last grow. My guess was deficiency or PH problems. I added Cal-mag and monitored the PH and adjusted every second day. The only thing that helped a bit was the PH adjustment. Finally I figured out that it probably was wind burn and heat stress. In the next grow I tried to keep the temperature low and make sure that the wind from fans has better variation and it helped. Today, with 10 days to harvest the problems are back but not as bad as last time. It looks more like natural autumn colors.I think Alienwidow is right.


EDIT: I have a drip system with coco.