Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Yes. Straight from ledil.

I just put 4 sets together on 120mm sinks pre drilled and tapped based on the spec sheet(83*off the holder holes). Every one fits just exactly right. Using 8mm m3's. Sits just inside almost touching the metal tabs @Growmau5 was sanding and I think you are having the issue with. You shouldn't have to sand them. The reflectors are sitting completely flush and the tabs are not pushing on the reflector in any way. Your hole alignment is probably off a little. There is not much room for error with the 3590's.
These reflectors were designed for the 3070/3050's then expanded to the 3590 with the different adapter. Seems they didn't give much working tolerance for the bigger adapter/holder.
View attachment 3673724 View attachment 3673725
Had I used the metal of the chip lok holder to elevate the adapter as you have, I wouldn't have had the issue. Filing them slightly solved the problem though luckily. Buy I can see why yours worked. I also use M3 8mm screws.20160503_105051.jpg
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Had I used the metal of the chip lok holder to elevate the adapter as you have, I wouldn't have had the issue. Filing them slightly solved the problem though luckily. Buy I can see why yours worked. I also use M3 8mm screws.View attachment 3673727
There is nothing being elevated. No matter how close or far the flat part of the adapter gets to metal tab, it still should not sit down into that openness of the holder. The rest of the holder and even the tabs that look like they could, won't let it happen. Is the chip sitting in the holder fully? Is it just one side, or both?
Has anyone else had this problem?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
There is nothing being elevated. No matter how close or far the flat part of the adapter gets to metal tab, it still should not sit down into that openness of the holder. The rest of the holder and even the tabs that look like they could, won't let it happen. Is the chip sitting in the holder fully? Is it just one side, or both?
Has anyone else had this problem?
Yes man. @atomicData did a huge post about it. I promise it's not just me being retarded. Its legitimately too low for the 3 L brackets to go inside enough to engage the turn. Filing was absolutely necessary.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/atomicdatas-first-cxb3590-build.906966/#post-12558746
 

GrumpyToker

Well-Known Member
Is this a thread about the Cutter it??? Seems like someone wants to talk about stuff from other vendors.

I invite you to attend the COB talk thread for your general questions that are not Cutter kit related
 

anomolies

Well-Known Member
wow the unpainted heatsinks look sick. I'd like those for my next kit.

Just set up my lights and got them all wired correctly (i hope). It's working fine but I'm kind of scared to leave them unattended. lol. I have to go to work though. Worst case scenario could this cause a fire? Or does the driver have a built in safety?

Like if I wired something wrong or if one of the wires comes loose whats the worst that
could happen?

If any of the potentiometer wires touch what would happen?
 
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welight

Well-Known Member
Local Wago Office dropped me in these

I am thinking of adding these to the kit with 15ft of AWG18 cable. The 222 people use here but the smaller 221 have a nicer latching mechanism, same rating but are smaller, which ones to add to the kit? 2 way, 3way??
need your feedback
Cheers
Mark
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Local Wago Office dropped me in these

I am thinking of adding these to the kit with 15ft of AWG18 cable. The 222 people use here but the smaller 221 have a nicer latching mechanism, same rating but are smaller, which ones to add to the kit? 2 way, 3way??
need your feedback
Cheers
Mark
Which is which? Thin latches are the 221? The only ones that a 3 way is visible.
 
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Growmau5

Well-Known Member
I was unaware of the 221. The 222 is a great product, but it can be a little bulky when a cluser of 3 or more is in close proximity.
 

welight

Well-Known Member
re 18awg, we have this is our production area

and can cut 1000's wires per hour to any length with any end cut length, the issue is everyone will want different wire lengths so is it easier to just add 1 15ft length rather than cut to size(s)
Cheers
Mark
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
Local Wago Office dropped me in these

I am thinking of adding these to the kit with 15ft of AWG18 cable. The 222 people use here but the smaller 221 have a nicer latching mechanism, same rating but are smaller, which ones to add to the kit? 2 way, 3way??
need your feedback
Cheers
Mark
Did you know that they make a tool to open the 222 series...they kill my forearms after while(sounds lame I know).
https://www.connexbox.com/210-101.html
I like that you can see the contact bar connection with the 221, sometimes thin stranded can gets bunched before the bar.
They have a tidy little holder coming too for multiple to mount on DIN rail too.
 

anomolies

Well-Known Member
For me, the most difficult part of assembling the kit was marking and drilling the mounting holes for the heatsinks. I couldnt get more than 1 hole on each side to line up, haha. I think its easier for the 4 kit but for the 8 cob kit, if its off by a fraction of a mm youre screwed.

Id prefer a screwless or modular mounting
 

welight

Well-Known Member
Did you know that they make a tool to open the 222 series...they kill my forearms after while(sounds lame I know).
https://www.connexbox.com/210-101.html
I like that you can see the contact bar connection with the 221, sometimes thin stranded can gets bunched before the bar.
They have a tidy little holder coming too for multiple to mount on DIN rail too.
holy s..., thats a lot of dosh for a tool to open a terminal block!!. I totally agree the 222 is very stiff. The 221 is nothing like it, very simple smooth action but nice lock down. They refer to it as the successor of the 222
http://www.wago.com/media/221/downloads_2/221_series_overview_ext.pdf
Cheers
Mark
 
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