Custom DIY cloner

I could be completely mistaken but i recall reading it was good to have some initial darkness period. I don't claim to be an expert by any means. Please advise.
 
I could put an LED in the top. I prefer to be able keep light cycles seperated and independent of one another if need be.
 
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HydroRed

Well-Known Member
I could be completely mistaken but i recall reading it was good to have some initial darkness period. I don't claim to be an expert by any means. Please advise.
Low intensity light is best for clones. 18/6 or 24/7 lighting schedule. Continual darkness will kill em off. They need the photosynthesis to convert light into energy....roots, foliage etc.
With bubble cloners or aeroponics you dont need a clear humidity dome. You would use one if you were in a rapid rooter tray or something like that to keep the humidity high and still allow light.
 
Low intensity light is best for clones. 18/6 or 24/7 lighting schedule. Continual darkness will kill em off. They need the photosynthesis to convert light into energy....roots, foliage etc.
With bubble cloners or aeroponics you dont need a clear humidity dome. You would use one if you were in a rapid rooter tray or something like that to keep the humidity high and still allow light.
wikipedia it states


"The cutting is placed in an appropriate initial medium such as common soil, compost, perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, sand, rock wool, oasis foam or a combination of those. The initial medium is kept moist and high humidity is maintained in the surrounding air. Elevated humidity levels slow the transpiration rate (water loss from leaves) and prevent the cutting from drying out. During this phase, the temperature is kept relatively low (25C) and direct light is avoided so that the cutting focuses in root production rather than photosynthesis
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Yeah need another tent for harvest. I have a 15 min interval time what would you run the pump on?
Are you trying to veg and flower in the same tent?
15 on 15 off is ok for the pump. If you run 24/7 you may encounter temp issues with the res. Those pumps produce heat and it transfers to the water. Just make sure the sprayers are effectively wetting the bottoms of the pucks in the cloner during that 15 minutes its on.

wikipedia it states


"The cutting is placed in an appropriate initial medium such as common soil, compost, perlite, vermiculite, peat moss, sand, rock wool, oasis foam or a combination of those. The initial medium is kept moist and high humidity is maintained in the surrounding air. Elevated humidity levels slow the transpiration rate (water loss from leaves) and prevent the cutting from drying out. During this phase, the temperature is kept relatively low (25C) and direct light is avoided so that the cutting focuses in root production rather than photosynthesis
Theres a difference between low light and no light. Like I said, low intensity lighting is best for rooting cuts.
Ever see people cut the fan leaves down on their cuttings? This is why....to reduce transpiration since there is no roots yet and the cuttings cant uptake as fast as they transpire.
I have no opinions to offer on that light. I've never seen one like that before and light intensity is hard to determine from a picture. Thats one of those things your just going to have to play with to find the right lighting intensity/light distance from the plants etc. I would imagine in your case that "less is more" though and probably a safer bet.
 

GoatSoup

Well-Known Member
I ran a Stinkbud cloner, much like the one you built and used a "50 W" LED panel light in the top with a 2" computer fan to vent heat. I think my panel was only ~14 watts but I'm building a new one using a 30 watt panel. The nice thing about the panel lights is they are low wattage and good spectrum. Just screw the light panel to the top of the tub and put in a small fan. computer fans use 12v, so get a small wall wart to run the fan.

I just ran plain tap water to clone, no compounds or gel or anything, I got clones rooted in 4-6days.
 
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