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Creating a RDWC Setup - Could use some Pointers

Discussion in 'DWC/ Bubbleponics' started by Joint Monster, Nov 15, 2017.

  1.  
    rkymtnman

    rkymtnman Well-Known Member

    i would buy a really small one. the slower thru the wort chiller the better. i'd have to go look in my pile of used gear to see what i used. i had a 10 or 15 gallon tote right next to the chiller. pump in the tote>chiller>wort chiller>tote
     
  2.  
    rkymtnman

    rkymtnman Well-Known Member

    40GPH. 8 bucks each off ebay. buy a couple just in case.
     
  3.  
    Joint Monster

    Joint Monster Well-Known Member

    The EcoPlus 1/4Hp Water Chill says, Pump Size min 264 to max 660gph. Would that not be an issue to run such a small pump? (I know it's working for you, but I want to make sure I don't run into problems after.)

    The wort you linked was 25' , is it worth paying a little more for the 50' one?
     
    rkymtnman likes this.
  4.  
    rkymtnman

    rkymtnman Well-Known Member

    wow, that many gph huh? for 8 bucks, i'd buy that small one and then maybe a medium sized one around half of the 264 gph. you really are only gonna be cooling maybe 15 gals max.

    did you buy that chiller already?

    i thought the 25' was plenty. it came up about halfways into the tote i was using if i remember.
     
    Joint Monster likes this.
  5.  
    CannaBruh

    CannaBruh Well-Known Member

    Quick anecdote, my current run has 3 dead males worth of roots in the same oxycloner as the remaining ladies flowering at day 44.

    With UC roots I'm not seeing adverse problems (yet) with the dead roots in the same tub.

    I wouldn't recommend this practice, though can demonstrate that you can pull off (or at least up to day 44) a harvest of nice crops with dead plant roots in the same res if you run sterile. ( not to be misconstrued as sterile as some qualifier but it seems to be preventing nasty shit whereas without it i already know the gunky goop i'd be seeing)

    With RDWC there are more parts to clean and more points of failure imo, they are awesome when running but I prefer each reservoir to be completely independent of all others, just my preference.

    Smaller independent reservoirs allow quick responsive action for flushing without having to clear the entire system. I had a friend who ran 100g reservoirs and it was the most retarded waste of water i'd seen in some time.
     
    rkymtnman likes this.
  6.  
    rkymtnman

    rkymtnman Well-Known Member

    i agree. i loved my rdwc, went away from it to do autofeed hempys and now built some autofeed waterfarms. it's nice that i can leave them alone for a week but also nice like you said to give them individual love when i am home.
     
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  7.  
    ttystikk

    ttystikk Well-Known Member

    Use an ice chest for your cold water reservoir.

    Yes, you end up with a half full tub.
     
    Joint Monster likes this.
  8.  
    ttystikk

    ttystikk Well-Known Member

    I get much better results doing the exact opposite of this.
     
    MeGaKiLlErMaN likes this.
  9.  
    MeGaKiLlErMaN

    MeGaKiLlErMaN Well-Known Member

    Really? You've ran both? What was the yield difference? Do you think it was based off of the amount of oxygen? Also what about the specific setup?
     
  10.  
    ttystikk

    ttystikk Well-Known Member

    The more water flowing around, the better it's agitated, mixed through the rootballs, temperature controlled and oxygenated.

    That's been the consistent theme of all of the literally dozens if not hundreds of different setups and configurations I've used over the years.

    If things are happy and you don't have root rot then it's working for you.
     
    Joint Monster likes this.
  11.  
    Joint Monster

    Joint Monster Well-Known Member

    I have not purchased any hydro stuff yet, I'm trying to figure everything out first. (I have my lights though.)

    For the "EcoPlus 1/4Hp Water Chiller" that's the rated gph in the description, it is rated 80 gallons, which is roughly what my entire system was going to be more or less. (The 1/4HP is $800 and the chiller one size down is $700. But the chiller one size up which is 1/2Hp is $1150.)

    I thought I was suppose to choose the chiller based on my total system size, but if I'm running it in it's own loop, I suppose it makes more sense to size it according to the small container in it's loop. (And not my entire system, as if I was running it inline with nutes going through it.) Although the $700 chiller was the smallest water chiller I found, so I figured spend the extra $100 and get the "middle" option.


    Ahh thanks for clarifying. That's a very good pointer! :blsmoke:
     
    ttystikk likes this.
  12.  
    MeGaKiLlErMaN

    MeGaKiLlErMaN Well-Known Member

    1/10HP works perfect for my 12 plant site. no need to pay more unless you need it. Each one is a 5 gal bucket that goes back to a nute rez. 3 5x5 areas.
     
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  13.  
    ttystikk

    ttystikk Well-Known Member

    Better insulated tubsites reduce the load on the chiller.
     
    Joint Monster and dstroy like this.
  14.  
    rkymtnman

    rkymtnman Well-Known Member

    find a 1/10 if you can. i think mine was an activeaqua brand. off discounthydro.com if i remember correctly
     
  15.  
    dstroy

    dstroy Well-Known Member

    I don't run RDWC but I do have a chiller set up and has been running for about a year.

    I use that rubber a/c pipe insulation on the coolant lines too, works really well. Side bonus is that it stops condensation from forming. I was surprised that so many people were running nutrient solution through their chillers instead of doing a closed loop, because they're not exactly cheap. From an equipment maintenance standpoint alone it makes the most sense to use closed loop.

    I also like to put a drop or two of dawn in the coolant res for a surfactant. Doing that makes the entire system more efficient. Can't do that with an open loop design. Don't use distilled water by itself.
     
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  16.  
    Joint Monster

    Joint Monster Well-Known Member

    I am a little worried about water consumption, but if I'm only changing out the complete system once a week or maybe two weeks, hopefully it is not too expensive. Much better than lugging around soil buckets though.
    What I liked about RDWC is that it simplifies things for me. I only have to deal with one main reservoir for nutrients and ph, and if it is a decent size it is fairly independent (I should be able to leave it alone for a few days without worry.)

    I'm debating 4" or 3" lines for the bottoms. But that, plus junctions periodically, should help out a lot with maintenance.
    I've also heard of people putting "river rocks" in front of the 3" or 4" piping in the containers to diffuse the water and slow it down a bit, and help with roots going through.

    @MeGaKiLlErMaN Are you also running your Chiller in it's own loop, or is your's inline?


    [Chillers]
    EcoPlus 1/4HP (Local hydro store) $800
    EcoPlus 1/10HP (Local hydro store) $700
    ActiveAqua 1/4HP (amazon free shipping) $656
    Activa Aqua 1/10HP (amazon free shipping) $500

    If I go with local pickup imo. it makes more sense to take the Eco 1/4HP. If I go amazon then the Aqua 1/10hp is pretty well priced. The only thing is that (other than your suggestions) I have no idea how to adequately size the chiller in it's own loop. If it's only a 15gal "coolant" reservoir, then going through the Wort, is that Wort (with a 1/10HP chiller) going to be cold enough to keep the entire system (~100gal.) at an appropriate temperature?

    @dstroy Thanks for the tips! I'll look into insulation for the piping. So a Drop of Dawn (and the grease is gone?! ...lol just kidding) plus some R/o water in the "coolant" reservoir? ..interesting!
    ^Would you also recommend additionally, some type of "cleaner" like hydrogen peroxide? Or does Dawn do the job.


    ...PS. I'm really enjoying this conversation, and finding this thread has Massive Value! So Thanks to everyone who's contributed so far! :bigjoint:
     
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  17.  
    dstroy

    dstroy Well-Known Member

    You still size the chiller for the total volume of water being cooled. So coolant + reservoir, then the larger your reservoir is, the more heat exchanger surface area you need, otherwise the chiller will short cycle because it’s chilling the coolant faster than the immersion coil can transfer the heat to the coolant. I think 50’ would be a long enough immersion chiller at 3/8” diameter for 100 gallons, but you can’t go too big here even though at some point the return on increasing the exchanger surface area will diminish significantly so buy the longest one in your budget without undersizing. Don’t forget that you need adequate circulation across the coil too, because if you don’t it won’t work well, and you’ll be unhappy.

    I use tap water, and treat it with bleach once a month to keep it “sterile”, and use the dish soap for a surfactant.
     
    Joint Monster likes this.
  18.  
    dstroy

    dstroy Well-Known Member

    It’s pretty straightforward to set up a closed loop, and it’s easy to add separate extra loops if you expand. All I use mine for is my cloner and main res.

    First pic is the res, with the coil. That thing on the right side of the res is a power head. Second pic is inside the “coolant res”. Third just shows where I chose to cut a hole for coolant lines.
     

    Attached Files:

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  19.  
    MeGaKiLlErMaN

    MeGaKiLlErMaN Well-Known Member

    Inline, the only way to go.
     
  20.  
    Joint Monster

    Joint Monster Well-Known Member

    @dstroy Looks good mate! bongsmilie

    Could you explain why you say that? (Most of what I've been reading seems to concur it is better for the chiller to be run in it's own loop.)
     

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