Controlling heat with DE 1000w

Not 1000 watt ballast crack down on me, I had a double-ended 1000 watt HPS picture put up for us this winter when the temperatures got cooler for fear of not being able to maintain low enough temperatures during the hot humid summer in my region. Right now can't seem to be maintaining between 86 degrees Fahrenheit. I am running an 6000 BTU window unit AC, I have 8000 BTU on standby that I plan on mounting tomorrow. My question is do you think the 8000 BTU AC will bring my temperatures to optimal range? Anyone with HVAC knowledge or has been through changing over from the a 1000 watt fixture to a 1000 watt double ended non air cooled fixture input would be great.
Peace green217

I think as long as there is cool air circulating you'll be fine. Temperatures will fluctuate a few degrees here and there but shouldn't be a problem. How are they now?

Try moving your ballast outside your tent/room. That could lower the temps inside your tent/room a few degrees.

They were fine. Unfortunately I had to kill them. They were fine though. I changed my ac from a6000btu to a 8000btu temps were fine with the light once I did that. I am not in a legal place and things were getting a little hairy, so I stopped for a while. Thanks for the reply though.

When I crank things back up summer time will be over, making it a lot easier for me to control my temps.

I had it dialed in, I even dropped the light a little.

5000 btu is enough to cool a 1000 watt DE, Maybe better insulation is needed.

chuck estevez said:

5000 btu is enough to cool a 1000 watt DE, Maybe better insulation is needed.

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My thoughts exactly. That 6000btu unit should have been enough to handle the job. But hey as long as your problem was corrected OP. Happy growing bro!

My room is in a shed, so my a/c has to fight 90 degree temps and high humidity during the summer, thus making the smaller AC units incapable of keeping my temps within range. I Assume you guys are talking about growing in air conditioned environments. I am NOT that lucky, unfortunately. This time of year temperatures in my neck of the woods average in the mid nineties, and humidity above 80% a lot of times above 90%. That's why I have to use such large air conditioning units. I live in a zone 8. I only cool the rooms themselves not the shed. the rooms are insulated everywhere but the floor. I have a 440 cfm inline fan blowing out the air in the top of my room. I need it to control smell during flower. I am going to be doing some renovations to the shed soon, hopefully make it a little more efficient. But it's worked so far. I am starting to realize my growing season in the shed should be kept between Oct-April. That is when the heat and humidity isn't such a issue.

I'm germinating now temps will drop off dramatically in October. But September is going to be a little sketchy as far as power bills go. I live in a pretty tropical climate.
got some Reserva Privida: purple og x6
Dinafem; White Widow x 3
Feminised Seeds: OG kush x 5
One auto freebie cant remember the name lemon something(it will be my first auto)
One "Widow" seed
I won them on a gorilla seed bank promo, so got all that for free. Cant beat that. I've been running Breeders Boutique up till now and still have a few of their beans for later.
I do appreciate the replies though.
happy growing guys,
green217

chuck estevez said:

5000 btu is enough to cool a 1000 watt DE, Maybe better insulation is needed.

Click to expand...

I have insulated all the way around my rooms, except the floor. can't remember the actual R rating of it off the top of my head but i have fiberglass bat insulation around all walls and ceiling. I want to seal it up eventually and throw some CO2 in there, but i'm happy with what i have for now. I'd love to build a COB light but it would be around $1000 in materials to replace the 1000w HPS.

So i take it that you guys have harvested under a 1000w DE, how much difference in yeild/quality gain to get compared to a aircooled 1000w single ended fixture?

Get a heat pump.

w0034 said:

Get a heat pump.

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I don't have the money to invest in a heat pump right now. split unit is what I've been eyeing, that'll probably be the route I go when I've got the funds for it. Got to invest in some carpentry work on the shed before I do that though, needs new siding among a few other things to get the structure where I want it, then I'm going to try to keep the whole shed air conditioned either with a split unit or a heat pump. Right now I just want my fucking seeds to pop open. So I can get some meds. I'm out. Those free seeds aren't germinating as well as I'd like them to be.

green217 said:

I have insulated all the way around my rooms, except the floor. can't remember the actual R rating of it off the top of my head but i have fiberglass bat insulation around all walls and ceiling. I want to seal it up eventually and throw some CO2 in there, but i'm happy with what i have for now. I'd love to build a COB light but it would be around $1000 in materials to replace the 1000w HPS.

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Sounds like me homie but I'm running lights vertical too. Friend told me not to insulate and drywall.. yet its already dropped the temperature of the space easily 10 degrees when its 100 out. Keeps it nice. I love it-love it-love it-love it-love it

green217 said:

Not 1000 watt ballast crack down on me, I had a double-ended 1000 watt HPS picture put up for us this winter when the temperatures got cooler for fear of not being able to maintain low enough temperatures during the hot humid summer in my region. Right now can't seem to be maintaining between 86 degrees Fahrenheit. I am running an 6000 BTU window unit AC, I have 8000 BTU on standby that I plan on mounting tomorrow. My question is do you think the 8000 BTU AC will bring my temperatures to optimal range? Anyone with HVAC knowledge or has been through changing over from the a 1000 watt fixture to a 1000 watt double ended non air cooled fixture input would be great.
Peace green217View attachment 3472093View attachment 3472094 View attachment 3472095

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First off, the best way to get a good reading on the temperature at the top of your canopy is by using a laser infrared thermometer and putting the infrared part right up to the tops. I cool my room with 600 cfm intake, a 6 inch Lasko clip on, and a 400 cfm exhaust. the intake comes from a cool room and the outtake goes right to the room with the tent. keeps it at a safe temp... i keep the house at 74 and the tops get to maybe 85F on the highest ones

ryan s said:

Sounds like me homie but I'm running lights vertical too. Friend told me not to insulate and drywall.. yet its already dropped the temperature of the space easily 10 degrees when its 100 out. Keeps it nice. I love it-love it-love it-love it-love it



First off, the best way to get a good reading on the temperature at the top of your canopy is by using a laser infrared thermometer and putting the infrared part right up to the tops. I cool my room with 600 cfm intake, a 6 inch Lasko clip on, and a 400 cfm exhaust. the intake comes from a cool room and the outtake goes right to the room with the tent. keeps it at a safe temp... i keep the house at 74 and the tops get to maybe 85F on the highest ones

Click to expand...

Yeah I'm using and infrared thermometer to read canopy temperatures also, unfortunately I have no cold air intake the intakes hot humid but with my 8000 BTU window unit I'm still able stay within ideal temperature range. Hopefully I can get the whole shed air-conditioned soon so I can also have a cold air intake right now it's in the shed and outside of the rooms this shit is hot as fuck.

green217 said:

Yeah I'm using and infrared thermometer to read canopy temperatures also, unfortunately I have no cold air intake the intakes hot humid but with my 8000 BTU window unit I'm still able stay within ideal temperature range. Hopefully I can get the whole shed air-conditioned soon so I can also have a cold air intake right now it's in the shed and outside of the rooms this shit is hot as fuck.

Click to expand...

But yeah shed growing in hot/humid temps is definitely doable. Especially if you have a little construction knowledge, and luckily i've done electrical for quite a few years. I could see where it would be hard for someone with no construction experience though. I would like to figure out how to fix these "burnt" 1000w ballasts that went out on me before I dropped the 1000w DE fixture in the room to take their place, although I'm stoked that it's dialed in now. Just need something big enough to go in there.
happy growing, green217