Can I spray my buds for powdery mildew?

roidrage152

Active Member
There are organic sprays for PM that are supposedly safe to use on foods and stuff up to harvest day. They have them at normal hardware stores. I think sulfur based is common.

As an alternative to eagle20 you can get immunox. Same active ingredient as immunox but cheaper and available at lowes. Make sure it is not immunox plus though. That also has a pesticide. I was thinking that could possibly be good for if you have mildew AND a pest problem but it actually might not be food rated never used it. It's my understanding this shit (regular immunox) oes knock out PM though. It is safe to spray on food stuff as well but i think u can only use it up to 30 days before harvest or something. The key to knocking it out is to use a systemic rather than a "contact" but I would probably only do it during veg all these chemicals are pretty Nasty but u gotta lay the smack down on PM or it can get out of hand.



http://www.spectracide.com/Products-and-Solutions/Immunox/Spectracide-Immunox-Multi-Purpose-Fungicide.aspx
 

acgreenski

Active Member
Hey dude, here's a few things that have worked for me in delaying the return of powder mold while not harming buds before harvest; 1. Spray with regular water around a ph of 8 with the best bottle sprayers you can get, put one in each hand and go to town about an hour after lights off, don't worry about the buds, they'll be fine, just make sure they are staked. Make sure that your temp is warm enough in the dark(i like 75-78) with fans going to dry the plants completely before light comes on. 2. Similar to the first but you can add an ounce of neem per gallon with a 1/4 teaspoon of dish soap(i like organic) for emulsification. The neem makes a temporary barrier that PM has trouble breaking through. I never use neem in the last 1.5 weeks, yet prior to this it has worked really well. 3. Going a step further with the neem mix and add 1 teaspoon of baking soda. I find that when I add the soda I get an extra few days of no pm. I am about to try to substitute 1 teaspoon of green cure(potassium bicarbonate) to see if there's a major difference as I've heard it's slightly gentler, but my mix works fine so far. 4. Mix high ph water with potassium bicarbonate club soda(not sodium bicarbonate). This has a slight bubbling effect on dense spots of pm which seems to wash it off a little better. You have to mix the club soda with regular water because it is a bitch to spray by itself unless perhaps you have a power sprayer or something.

Key Notes; after a few days I see very slightly burnt hairs here and there but bud production is not noticeably reduced and leaves are fine, make sure to have a long enough drying time before the lights come back on(i like 8 hours) after spraying, have a nice even breeze everywhere in the room, temperature that never goes below 75(get an oil radiator for $40), eliminate shadowed areas of plants and bottom trim, sulfur burn occasionally and only 5 days or more after spraying but before week 6. Spraying with high ph water alone is the safest and will knock down pm for a week or more if you get the spray right close to the plant(just be prepared with extra stakes). I intend to use eagle20 and then let my girls veg longer before flowering, thus dissipating the chems greatly before harvest 1 time in hopes i can be rid of this forever. Clean ALL your shit!

Good luck all:)
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
Ive used both eagle 20 & bonide liquid copper,while both knocked the shit out of the mold i use the bonide on every grow as preventative measures,i now spray every grow at the half way mark durring bud stage & havent had a problem with pm or grey mold "bud rott" since.

Ive treated buds in the last 2 weeks with the bonide copper soap & after it stomped the molds ass it left all the buds perfect & no taste issues.

If your leaves have more than tiny amounts of mildew dont waste time fukin round with milk or peroxide, bust out the bonide or eagle & save yer buds,organic or not its decision time ,using milk or peroxide or other remdies & hoping for best results may just cost you half your harvest.
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
Ive used both eagle 20 & bonide liquid copper,while both knocked the shit out of the mold i use the bonide on every grow as preventative measures,i now spray every grow at the half way mark durring bud stage & havent had a problem with pm or grey mold "bud rott" since.

Ive treated buds in the last 2 weeks with the bonide copper soap & after it stomped the molds ass it left all the buds perfect & no taste issues.

If your leaves have more than tiny amounts of mildew dont waste time fukin round with milk or peroxide, bust out the bonide or eagle & save yer buds,organic or not its decision time ,using milk or peroxide or other remdies & hoping for best results may just cost you half your harvest.
 
Ive used both eagle 20 & bonide liquid copper,while both knocked the shit out of the mold i use the bonide on every grow as preventative measures,i now spray every grow at the half way mark durring bud stage & havent had a problem with pm or grey mold "bud rott" since.

Ive treated buds in the last 2 weeks with the bonide copper soap & after it stomped the molds ass it left all the buds perfect & no taste issues.

If your leaves have more than tiny amounts of mildew dont waste time fukin round with milk or peroxide, bust out the bonide or eagle & save yer buds,organic or not its decision time ,using milk or peroxide or other remdies & hoping for best results may just cost you half your harvest.
totally agree with this post. I have 10 different products on my shelf that supposedly work on pm.
ALL OF THEM only knock it down temporarily. Eagle 20 CURED my plants, they look like new plants after treatment and not one person I gave it to said anything about tasting it.
the only other product worth a shit is PMWASH, you can use it the day of harvest and it's mostly water.
 

wolfpack4ever

Well-Known Member
yea well if the mildew is on your flowers you need to cut them off to keep the rest of the plant. unless you can do what they said above, use the eagle 20 to treat and see whats going on.. you definitely dont want that gross stuff in your smoke.
 

donweedo

Active Member
Powdery mildew is only an irritant to the respiratory system, not a carcinogen like some ingredients in the eagle 20.

I would choose to smoke the former if I had to, but would prefer neither. Honestly, if I can't solve the problem before harvest, then I will salvage what I can by giving the buds a soak in hydrogen peroxide to neutralize the powdery mildew, or just making hash.

However, with basically 50% of flowering left to go, I am hoping to take care of this now and still manage a decent harvest.

I've done what I can to make the environment hostile to powdery mildew, but it's just that time of year where it gets really hard to maintain, with it being so cold a damp all the time.

So it seems that what it comes down to for organic solutions are high ph water, hydrogen peroxide, green cure, and milk solution.

Now, back to my main concern, I need to know which of these I can spray directly into growing buds, without damaging them.

I just finished weighing out my last harvest that got hit hard with powdery mildew, I averaged only half an ounce on a four foot tall plant in a 3 gallon pot. Pretty terrible. It seemed to me, that around week 5 they got the pm pretty bad. Upon discovering this I treated right away with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (2 tbsp to 1 L of water) which didn't slow it down much at all. I then sprayed the plants with a 10% milk solution, and this seemed to put the brakes on the PM. The spores that were there didn't seem to disappear, but it didn't spread either.

At this point, it seemed that the buds just stopped getting bigger. They matured, and the pistils went orange, and checking the trichomes before harvest revealed them to be right on schedule (about 20% amber at 9 weeks) but they just didn't swell like they should have, thus my extremely small yield.

Now, I'm not sure if this was caused by the powdery mildew, or by one of the treatments I applied, but I am a little worried to spray my buds with anything until I can be certain it's not going to burn the pistils and stop the bud growth.

So it there anything I can spray on the entire plant, buds and all, to control powdery mildew, but not risk slowing or stopping the flowering process?
i have used a bacillus subtillus product late in flower with great success haven't chopped yet so i have hope the flavor has not been effected.
 

pameladmillus11

Active Member
One powdery mildew organic remedy is to use dilute solutions of hydrogen peroxide. Spray it on the plants thoroughly about once a week. Organic removal of powdery mildew is always preferable to using harsh chemicals on your plants. As ways remember, man the best way to take care of powdery mildew is by prevention. What strain are you working with, if you don't mind me asking?
I just sprayed my plants for a pm issue. Only on a few leaves. I read a tablespoon to a gallon. Is that gonna work ?
 

Bosgrower

Well-Known Member
Hydrogen peroxide 3% solution (most supermarkets and pharmacies) is a great non-toxic options for PM. An initial full strength saturating spray will work wonders, but it will burn/discolor the leaves. Subsequent treatment with 1/2 strength solutions (1.5%) will help keep things under control.
You should also investigate some UV-C bulbs to deal with the air borne spores. Here's an option. You want to avoid the ozone producing bulbs.
Depending on the size of your grow these might be sufficeint or you can look for stronger versions.
 

norcalreppin77

Well-Known Member
My buddy send me these organic systemic pesticide/fungicide I'm stoked been looking for a while.
 

piratebug

Well-Known Member
1 part white vinegar, 32 parts water upside down dunk, dunk for 1 minutes, pull out, wait one or two minutes dunk again, then dunk plant in clean water for a minute, then flip back over and air dry with fans, kills all molds and mildews on contact, also kills, all mites, including spider mites aphids, etc. And it won't harm the plant, even plants late into flower. Why? Because it pretty much uses the same active compound that a cannabis plant naturally creates on its own during the building of its outer cell walls, which it does to help defend its self against harmful fungi and many other harmful pests!
 
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