C02 yields vs non

You need 3 things...

1- Regulator - They'll cost you about $110 for a single tank
2- CO2 tank - They cost between $120 and $150 and refill is $15 at Airgas. Most hydro stores charge more than other places. But any welding store will have it. Everytime you go to get it filled, they'll take your tank and give you another one...and the cycle goes on and on....If you're worried about them questioning it, don't be. You're in a welding store buying CO2. It's like going to a liquor store and buying beer.
3- CO2 controller - You can go with something that's $200 up to $800. You could even look into exchanging some of your other controllers, adding some money and getting an all in one controller that'll take care of your humidity, in-take, exhaust, CO2....I have a Fuzzy Logic controller and it's awesome. After a couple of hours, it learns how much to pump and how to regulate it so it doesn't over shoot. I set mine at 1,500 and it's never fluctuates more than 15 ppm.

To set up...Attach the regulator to the tank and plug it into the controller. You're done. Your regulator will come with a long hose. Attach that and run it to another part of your room. Tape the other end behind a fan and this will mix the CO2 with the air so you're not just dumping it in 1 section and waiting for it to spread

Im looking into Co2, and for a 1000w grow with 4 plants 4x5 screen what would be a good size tank to get at a welding shop so I wouldnt have keep going back? Only going to be using Co2 during flower, veg will only be passive intake from home.

I will always chip in and as per Ed Rosenthal you can double your plant size & yield with C02 vs without

I think you only have 2 choices at a welding shop, small and very big. Some hydro shops carry them.

Dr they are easy to set up just plug and play. Set your Co2 set point at 1500ppm and walk away. Done

They have a couple of sizes...Guaranteed they'll have whatever a hydro shop has....How big is your box/room? A 10 pounder would work fine and depending on how sealed your room is, it should last you about 8-10 days

I've heard a lot about how much heat a burner causes to the room temperature,frugin hogwash.I live in Fla and run 3 1K vertizontals(uncooled)in an 8 by 8 room with a 12,500BTU window AC.I have watched the temp gauge many times during burn,a whole shitload of times and if it went up one degree,I was surprised.It normally didnt effect canopy temps at all.First of all you mount your burner high on the wall,and hot air rises.Not too high though you dont want a ceiling fire hazard lol.I can tell you with certainty that a dehumidifier running during the 12 hours of light will raise room temps more than a burner mounted high on each wall!I'm no burner freak nor do I sell them,I just get tired of the overstatements in regard to heat.If its a non-issue for me in Fla running 3 1K uncoolled fixtures I doubt it'll set your room ablaze

OZUT said:

They have a couple of sizes...Guaranteed they'll have whatever a hydro shop has....How big is your box/room? A 10 pounder would work fine and depending on how sealed your room is, it should last you about 8-10 days

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Room is 8x10. And will be running a co2 hose throughout the bottom of plants and have it on a timer for 15min 3x a day, and fans will be off for that period also.

OZUT said:

They have a couple of sizes...Guaranteed they'll have whatever a hydro shop has....How big is your box/room? A 10 pounder would work fine and depending on how sealed your room is, it should last you about 8-10 days

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my room is 18x12 x 8

TheOrganic said:

Room is 8x10. And will be running a co2 hose throughout the bottom of plants and have it on a timer for 15min 3x a day, and fans will be off for that period also.

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You're better off running it through a fan that way it hits all the plants at least that is what has worked for me

A 10lb cylinder will go about 4-5 days in a room that size. You don't want to run the CO2 line through the bottom of your plants. Remember, CO2 is heavier than air so it's going to settle down anyway. You want to hook it up to the back of an oscillating fan so it get mixed with the air and spread over your plants.....There's no reason to turn your fans off during that time. In fact, a lot of people even point a fan towards the floor so it kicks up the CO2....Remember, one of your goals is to have the CO2 circulating in your room and not concentrated in any particular area and the best way to do that is fans moving air around.

Another important thing to remember with CO2 is you want your temps in the 80-85 degree range....Below that, you won't get optimum results. When you get in that range, your plants breath faster and harder meaning it takes in more CO2. Think of CO2 as steroids. If you work out and shoot up, you need to push much harder or else you're defeating the purpose of roids. Same with CO2...If you supplement it, you also want to push the plants a little harder. Over the 85-88 range, your plants take more CO2 but it's just not as effective, because now you're getting them to a point where the CO2 is helping them stay alive but not necessarily benefiting them.

THanks, I was kinda setting up the same set up as greenman in that you tube vid. But I get what your saying about it settling to floor. Do I need to be running 24/7 co2 or just when on flowering lights on. Ive been getting very mixed reviews reading other threads just trying fig up the best efficient setup. thanks again.

Plant's use CO2 24 hours a day. However, when the lights are off, they only use about 10-15% of what they use during lights on. It's such a small amount, that you would be wasting a lot of it....Set your timer to shut it off during the night cycle and you'll push a couple of more days out of your cylinders

I got my room dialed in at 82 degrees only time my temp drops is 18 mins prior to lights on when my exhaust fan kicks in to allow fresh air in
it then drops to 72 degrees. i am thinkin of pushin this time back like 36 mins prior to lights on and dispersing c02 at my 18 min mark prior to lights on

if i am correct i am hoping that the c02 will bring my temp back up to 80 degree mark not sure how much c02 will bring up heat i will dial it in as i play but plan is to have 1600 ppm in room least 10 mins prior to lights on

Thanks, this is a very informative post. My question is about the exhaust fan. Sounds like you don't run it all during the light phase?

bringing this back up to the top bump

Tinker Greenly said:

Thanks, this is a very informative post. My question is about the exhaust fan. Sounds like you don't run it all during the light phase?

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You can't have your exhaust going or else you will vent out all of the co2. If you need to cool your lights you will have to run vented hoods through a dedicated exhaust line, otherwise you are limited to in room fans and AC.

OK, got it. I'd heard from some supposedly knowledgeable people that you need to inject your co2, let it sit for an hour or two, vent, and then start the cycle again. I guess if you can't have fluctuations of more than 200ppm this would be self defeating.

What happens when you need to work in your room and you open the door? Seems like you wouldn't even be able to do that without huge ppm fluctuations.

Fluctuation isn't that big of a deal. It you want optimum results, you keep it at 1,500. If it drops, then it drops. No big deal. But if you're going to pump it and exhaust it, that really defeats the purpose of it. I even have my air cooled hoods sealed so my 12 inch fans don't exhaust it through the cracks. Keep in mind that CO2 gets used by the plants. So when you pump some in there, it's not really going to stay in there. That's why a CO2 controller is a really good investment. Mine is a fuzzy logic one that I have set at 1,500 and it stays at 1,500. When it's pumping it in, it doesn't over shoot because it learns how to pump your room instead of shutting off the pump when it reads 1,500. But any good controller will work just fine.