Bridgelux EB Series Build

Serva

Well-Known Member
Which app did you use? IOS Android? Windows?
Thanks in advance..
Sorry to be unclear here, I just used the „average“ (so 2x 3000 + 1x 5000 = 11000/3 = ~3667). But this is absolutely not based on any science! I just liked the cmh spec, and that was my way to come closer to it. I like the growth in flower with specs > 4000K, because I am height restricted, and like sativa dominant plants. I think they are also more tasty, than my 3000+K ones, but I haven‘t grown enough yet, to proof this!

But if you like, I guess I have an app, I could compare my numbers with? But how wrong I may be with my average numbers?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
P
Sorry to be unclear here, I just used the „average“ (so 2x 3000 + 1x 5000 = 11000/3 = ~3667). But this is absolutely not based on any science! I just liked the cmh spec, and that was my way to come closer to it. I like the growth in flower with specs > 4000K, because I am height restricted, and like sativa dominant plants. I think they are also more tasty, than my 3000+K ones, but I haven‘t grown enough yet, to proof this!

But if you like, I guess I have an app, I could compare my numbers with? But how wrong I may be with my average numbers?
Lol, I thought of the Sketch app that you used to do the drawings, haha ...
Should have mentioned that, sorry.
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
P


Lol, I thought of the Sketch app that you used to do the drawings, haha ...
Should have mentioned that, sorry.
Haha, sorry was a rough morning... let me check...

App is called „Concepts“ for iOS (:

Full version cost ~10$, but I was able to do everything, without. Sometimes it‘s just a little tricky. And after I have found that I can choose a mm grid, instead of a „point“ grid, everyhing became awesome. So you really can design things with an accurancy of 1mm, and with clicking on the lines, you also directly see the actual size, really useful for me now, when constructing and sawing. So it‘s more a plan now, than an easy sketch.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
These things sure aren't cheap if you want to use them in quantity.
The COB bars we use are 240W each split into 3 COBs.
That means you need 8 of these guys to match those 3. which depending on the COBs we choose could range from $11 to $20 each x 3.

Personally, I like 3000K as it prevents stretch and there is enough red in there I don't feel the need to bother with red and far-red additions.
 
which depending on the COBs we choose could range from $11 to $20 each x 3
Is that the price for a complete COB assembly, or just for the LED itself?

When I was shopping around I noticed that the COBs themselves were reasonably priced, but then you needed to add a heatsink etc. to each COB which essentially doubles the price?

Also it seems that the COBs must be mounted to a proper fixture, and can't just be taped to the underside of metal shelves ;) The best part about the strips is how 'flexible' they are for mounting options ;)
 

Stone_Free

Well-Known Member
I agree - the Bridgelux ones are much more informative.

I’m like you: I’d prefer to pull up the data sheets and run the numbers myself rather than rely on something that does it in the background. I figured the tool might be helpful to those who want a quick answer though since the info available is lacking.
It's a brilliant tool man, I love stuff like that because it makes life easier and simpler for people like me who don't always know how to interpret all the data.
A massive thumbs up for your efforts :)
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
just the cobs, drivers are not that cheap either, heatsinks are not too bad, we use PC heatsinks with their forced cooling and heat pipe designs, those are pretty cheap. The heatsinks have a little screw hole each side we use to screw in a little 3D printed clip to hold the COB.

Let's say you feel fancy and spend $15 on each cooler, $33 to 60 on the COBs and maybe $80 for the driver.
That is $160 to $190 for $240W which is less than $1/W (better than CMH pricing -circa 1.5W/$)
 
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Danielson999

Well-Known Member
Any pictures of the build? Or what you used
Wired in series.
This is per fixture:

1 x Meanwell HLG-320H-C1050A
6 x 1120mm Bridgelux EB strips (one fixture has 4 x 4000K and 2 x 3000K, the other fixture is 4 x 3000K and 2 x 4000K)
1" aluminum tubing (the extra holes were meant for mounting cobs between the strips but I changed my plan)
Double sided thermal tape (one fixture also has self tapping screws, one fixture has only thermal tape holding the strips)
1 x electrical outlet box with a switch so I can turn the light off manually if I want to.
4 x eye bolts, one in each corner for mounting ratchet hangers.
18awg solid copper wire
5 wago connectors

One of those fixtures is going into a 2'x4' veg tent (the one with 4 x 4000K and 2 x 3000K). The fixture left over staying in the center 2'x4' area of the 4'x6' tent you see in the previous picture. The outside 2'x4' areas will each be filled with a fixture holding 8 Vero 29 cobs, a mix of 4000K and 1750K. Each cob run at a max of 50w, or 400w for each fixture along with the 300w EB fixture in the middle will give me 1100w max for flowering.
 

Attachments

Seshwaan

Member
Hi guys, I am just about to start wiring my strips once I have secured the mto my frame. Just made the frame now.

I have 3 different wall plugs for the driver but unsure if I need a 13a, 5a or 3a wall plug?

I will post some pics up shortly before I connect strips to the driver to check if my wiring is ok if you guys wouldn't mind checking for me please?

Just to confirm before I start, series or parallel ? I think parallel but would that mean that each strip would get 500ma rather than the 350 I wanted?


5 x Bridgelux BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-A3
7.7w each
running at 350ma ( 100%)
Driver - HLG-60H-24a (2.5v)
 

Danielson999

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, I am just about to start wiring my strips once I have secured the mto my frame. Just made the frame now.

I have 3 different wall plugs for the driver but unsure if I need a 13a, 5a or 3a wall plug?

I will post some pics up shortly before I connect strips to the driver to check if my wiring is ok if you guys wouldn't mind checking for me please?

Just to confirm before I start, series or parallel ? I think parallel but would that mean that each strip would get 500ma rather than the 350 I wanted?


5 x Bridgelux BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-A3
7.7w each
running at 350ma ( 100%)
Driver - HLG-60H-24a (2.5v)
With that driver you need to wire in parallel. It will drive the strips around 12w each.
 

Serva

Well-Known Member
Na, it‘s easy, you just need a multimeter. But I prefer to dim down completly, and get up to a point, where you see your plant is still happy (so no need for the multimeter I got^^)! But your diminsions are a little bit different to the norm to make some approved statement ;)

I guess even at the lowest setting (50% , 30W), it could be too much light in your pc case early on.
 
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Seshwaan

Member
Na, it‘s easy, you just need a multimeter. But I prefer to dim down completly, and get up to a point, where you see your plant is still happy (so no need for the multimeter I got^^)! But your diminsions are a little bit different to the norm to make some approved statement ;)

I guess even at the lowest setting (50% , 30W), it could be too much light in your pc case early on.
Ok i take your word for it! Thanks again man.

Ok so here are the strips on the frame. I know the frame is ghetto as hell and probably looks really bad but I had to cut it with the saw in the second picture so bear that in mind haha...

Question - Each strip as two sets of connectors, do I use both if wiring in parallel? So one + on each to the - on same strip and then the other set of connectors + to + on next strip and - on - on next strip?
 

Attachments

Seshwaan

Member
Just scroll back a little in this thread, randomblame posted the diagram you are looking for!

Sweet, found it. Do the little clips on the strips pull up like wagos or do I just push the wire in deep? Tried to pull the little clip up but doesnt seem like it wans to go and don want to break them..
 
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