MrTwist1
Well-Known Member
It depends if u want to wire them all in series (CC) or in parallel (CV).
Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
Tidy as fuck nice one! That thing looks like the bottom of a spaceship ;P what lights that in the middle? Will be a nice blend of spectrums and you will have a happy canopy with all that coverage.
Did you use self tappers for the EB strips? I just zip tied my strips on like a lazy person.
Serva
Well-Known Member
Haha, thanks man!
In the middle is a Hans Panel (6 Cree XPEBRY P01 Royal Blue, 20 Cree XPEBRD 801 Red, 11 Cree XPG-BWT GE6 White, 8 Cree XPEBRO 901 Red Orange and 8 Cree XPE EPR 901 DeepRed).
The strips have 3000K, and it's all for flowering only. But I guess, I could switch to vegi mode (all red leds are off), and still could have a pretty good growth.
And yes, I used self-tapper-screw (but I pre-drilled some small holes, to be more accurate) and 0.06" and 0.08" (is this notation correct?) aluminium profiles. It was my first metal project, so I can say, it was pretty easy. Mounting together tooked like one evening, wiring up another, including 20min wiring check by my wife, before I plugged it in
It seems tidy, but the wiring is crazy... next time I think about it, before I start 
In the middle is a Hans Panel (6 Cree XPEBRY P01 Royal Blue, 20 Cree XPEBRD 801 Red, 11 Cree XPG-BWT GE6 White, 8 Cree XPEBRO 901 Red Orange and 8 Cree XPE EPR 901 DeepRed).
The strips have 3000K, and it's all for flowering only. But I guess, I could switch to vegi mode (all red leds are off), and still could have a pretty good growth.
And yes, I used self-tapper-screw (but I pre-drilled some small holes, to be more accurate) and 0.06" and 0.08" (is this notation correct?) aluminium profiles. It was my first metal project, so I can say, it was pretty easy. Mounting together tooked like one evening, wiring up another, including 20min wiring check by my wife, before I plugged it in
It seems tidy, but the wiring is crazy... next time I think about it, before I start 
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
Anyone who may be looking for an alternative heat removal material to attach these strips onto, try aluminum roll stock, sometimes called "flashing"......It's pretty cheap, usually available by the foot, in all different widths....Near paper thin, I easily cut it to shape with my run of the mill, pair of scissors....
Its not very sturdy on its own, so some sort of framework will be needed for shape holding. It's super easy to drill through,( probably even punch through) to hold machine screws with bolts/wingnuts....
I made a few 24" sq panel frames with it as a backing, and its sucking the heat right off of theses things at a rate that has me questioning the accuracy of my $10 IR thermometer gun.....
Its not very sturdy on its own, so some sort of framework will be needed for shape holding. It's super easy to drill through,( probably even punch through) to hold machine screws with bolts/wingnuts....
I made a few 24" sq panel frames with it as a backing, and its sucking the heat right off of theses things at a rate that has me questioning the accuracy of my $10 IR thermometer gun.....
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Another way to check how hot your total array is...is to check the voltage droop from cold to stabilized. If I can keep mine under 2% droop I'm happy.
RandomHero8913
Well-Known Member
Place a piece of electrical tape on it and use your IR thermometer on that. The same thing happened to me. I could feel it was warmer than my gun was saying and the piece of tape helped show the right temp
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
24"x24" square of 16th inch aluminum
24"x24" square of aluminum roll stock (mm thickness unknown, cut to shape with scissors)
5x 560mm- 3500k EB series, running at 1400ma on a MW 185/1400....(it can run 6, only had 5 spares)
As recommended by BuddyColas, I took a cold voltage from the string and got 116.1, after 1 hour on, the voltage read 114.8, so that's a 1.1% voltage droop......(right?)
I put a 3" strip of electrical tape onto the sheet, to get a temperature reading on the back of the "bed" as RandomHero suggested, it stabilized at 122F.....
I no longer fear running them at 1400ma.....
I have two other panels built yet to test, same frames....
11x 560mm- 3500k EBs on a MW 185/700
8X 560mm- 3500K EBs on a MW 185/1050
Splitting hairs now.
24"x24" square of aluminum roll stock (mm thickness unknown, cut to shape with scissors)
5x 560mm- 3500k EB series, running at 1400ma on a MW 185/1400....(it can run 6, only had 5 spares)
As recommended by BuddyColas, I took a cold voltage from the string and got 116.1, after 1 hour on, the voltage read 114.8, so that's a 1.1% voltage droop......(right?)
I put a 3" strip of electrical tape onto the sheet, to get a temperature reading on the back of the "bed" as RandomHero suggested, it stabilized at 122F.....
I no longer fear running them at 1400ma.....
I have two other panels built yet to test, same frames....
11x 560mm- 3500k EBs on a MW 185/700
8X 560mm- 3500K EBs on a MW 185/1050
Splitting hairs now.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
1.1% droop is what I got too with those readings...and that is at max current! The max I have run the EBs is 1.05 amps, but Bridgelux under reports and over delivers in their products. I like that. The Samsung 561Cs may be the rage now, but I like the rugged and easy-to-cool EBs.
Last edited:
haze010
Well-Known Member
The samsung H series is basically the same as the bridgelux strips. They are slightly more expensive but slightly more efficient and they run on different voltages. The only reason 561c is more known and popular is samsung is selling the diodes individually so ppl like HLG can make their own boards out of them and theres more and more manufacturers making flexable strips ect with 561c's.
pop22
Well-Known Member
Glad I saw this! I know its an older post but this reference to the color debate is what I've been looking for as its been my opinion that adding a few color leds was a waste of time and money... guess I'll go see what he has to say! Thanks for the post!
So, i think this thread has a tremendous amount of great knowledge regarding different stripper options (insert catcalls and throw dolla bills we all love strippers) but at the same time its difficult to sort through 38 pages of stuff with only a fraction of it being useful.
Yes, the amazing deal thing at arrow we've all been commenting about is the 560mm strips (22 inches for americans) in the samsung H series. I linked it a few times in the last few pages it should be easy to find. Last i checked it was still there, its $9.75 per 2foot strip at arrow but only in 3000k. The other color temps like 4k ect are all still $13+ for the 2foot strips on arrow and on digikey they were like $16. I havent seen them in 90cri i dont think they make them in it. That said the 80cri vs 90cri thing i'm under the impression from more knowledgeable folks has to do with deep reds which you can add with a couple cheap monos. Please correct me if im wrong on that as over the last month ive spent hours and hours learning and reading about all this. Either way the 3k 80cri strips are currently 25% less expensive than any other color option and when you start buying them in amounts of 10+ that $4 a strip adds up quickly.
I was curious about it myself but my thinking was id add in some deep reds later, anyone else have knowledge about this? because mine is more me regurgitating what ive read than actually knowing its correct.
Edit: oh and i saw that growmau5 has a new vid up about light recipies which is basically this subject. I havent had the time to watch it or think about it yet but i think thats pretty much the center of these color spectrum debates.
DarthPlagueis
Well-Known Member
Is there any difference between running parallel or series with these strips?
I plan on using the 560mm EB strips, I think I have settled on a driver, since I want to use these as a veg light, I think 100 watts , give or take is good.
I've settled on these two drivers http://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/cd6e3d7e9c1b3762dd3cdfebd641a92f.pdf
Now I like the built in dimmer drivers,So I plan on getting the B version of either the HLG-80h-700 or the HLG-80h-350.
Now with the 350 I would have to get 8 boards to meet the minimum requirement of the V, that would equate to about 61.88 watts at full power
With the 700, the voltage of each board would jump to 23.13v (shown in spec sheet), which means I could only run about 5 boards before EXCEEDING the volt limit. That would be 81.55 watts.
Which light would be better, lower watts at a higher efficiency, or the opposite? Any input would be great. Thanks guys
I plan on using the 560mm EB strips, I think I have settled on a driver, since I want to use these as a veg light, I think 100 watts , give or take is good.
I've settled on these two drivers http://www.alliedelec.com/m/d/cd6e3d7e9c1b3762dd3cdfebd641a92f.pdf
Now I like the built in dimmer drivers,So I plan on getting the B version of either the HLG-80h-700 or the HLG-80h-350.
Now with the 350 I would have to get 8 boards to meet the minimum requirement of the V, that would equate to about 61.88 watts at full power
With the 700, the voltage of each board would jump to 23.13v (shown in spec sheet), which means I could only run about 5 boards before EXCEEDING the volt limit. That would be 81.55 watts.
Which light would be better, lower watts at a higher efficiency, or the opposite? Any input would be great. Thanks guys
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
I think running them too softly will be an issue with flowering. The more watts the better, especially at this small of a scale. On another note, when you're dealing with so few watts, the efficiency is almost meaningless. Even if you ran the less efficient 700ma the cost over the course of a year at 81w is almost non-existent. Just get the most watts out of it possible, your plants will thank you.
I ordered 12 strips of the 1120's. 6 of them 3000K and 6 of them 4000K. Ordered from Digikey Canada late wed night and they arrived today after less than 2 days. Each set of 6 strips will be running on an HLG-320H-C1050A for about 300w or maybe just over. I will also be adding 6 Vero 29 1750K cobs @50w each on an HLG-320H-C1400A. Excited to get it built and happy with Digikey and their 1.5 day processing and shipping time.
I ordered 12 strips of the 1120's. 6 of them 3000K and 6 of them 4000K. Ordered from Digikey Canada late wed night and they arrived today after less than 2 days. Each set of 6 strips will be running on an HLG-320H-C1050A for about 300w or maybe just over. I will also be adding 6 Vero 29 1750K cobs @50w each on an HLG-320H-C1400A. Excited to get it built and happy with Digikey and their 1.5 day processing and shipping time.
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
So what width aluminum are people mounting the strips on? 1" is wide enough right?
graying.geek
Well-Known Member
Yup. 1" x 1" x 0.125"
During flower, I've got my drivers dialed up to full power resulting in temp on the top of the angle-Al of 50'-55'C. Not sure what the temp would get to without the heavier angle-aluminum as a heat sink.
StonerCol
Well-Known Member
'Sup dude...what height are your lights above the canopy? I know you moved them up a bit but can't remember what the height you settled on was?
graying.geek
Well-Known Member
When I first lit up my arrays after they were correctly wired, I raised the lights up to 12" from the canopy and after just 1 day, the higher intensity toasted 1/3 of my canopy. Raised them up to 14" the next day and after the girls hardened off I lowered the lights little by little and have ended up ~4" from the top of my tallest bud and they seem to be doing fine.'Sup dude...what height are your lights above the canopy? I know you moved them up a bit but can't remember what the height you settled on was?
In retrospect, I would have done much better had I used my lux app to take readings across the canopy and it would have told me that the intensity was too high, too soon.
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
I'm sure they don't 'need' a heatsink but obviously it's an incredibly smart investment. Not only do you need some type of structure to mount your strips to and hang but having them dissipate heat better/faster is going to make them slightly more efficient and last longer. Nice to know some are using 1", I was just wondering how they would fit as far as putting screws in so close the the edge. I'll definitely be using 1" and .125 material. Just not sure yet whether I'll use flatbar, rectangular tubing, square tubing, channel or angle. Depends on my mood and what type of over the top and stupid design I come up with.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
I recommend something...the only scenario I can see no heatsinking is a low >200mA....even at 500ma with a little breeze I still see 35c Tj temperatures....1/8" thickness as well....