MrTwist1
Well-Known Member
560s FTW. I just received some in the post the other day too. Happy days
Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
nogod_
Well-Known Member
Water cooling would be overkill unless you're trying to remove heat from your grow space (as opposed to just cooling your emitters).
Looks like you might squeeze 12 x 4' strips on the elg-200 @ 700mA although the test current in the DS is 960mA and max volt is ~24v so hard to say.
Nothing conclusive about what color temp is better although 99% of folks seem to flower with 3000k/3500k
With supplemental reds maybe you could get away with higher color temp but were all guinea-pigging it at this point.
Looks like you might squeeze 12 x 4' strips on the elg-200 @ 700mA although the test current in the DS is 960mA and max volt is ~24v so hard to say.
Nothing conclusive about what color temp is better although 99% of folks seem to flower with 3000k/3500k
With supplemental reds maybe you could get away with higher color temp but were all guinea-pigging it at this point.
Hey fellas loving the thread with these strips! Chasing maximum efficiency, coverage and spectrum ultimately with the 4ft Samsung H series C strips (3k and 4k), uvb bulbs, far reds (unsure on ratios for uvb, reds etc?)
So if someone wanted 25x 4ft H series C strips what would be the most efficient way to power them? Using a spacing of 30mm between strips the dimensions would be 1120x1200. If someone could help me out with the maths on that it would be greatly appreciated
Any of these ELG series drivers? 220v input BTW. Would that mean 12 strips on each driver?
Edit; also has anyone thought of water cooling these strips? Specifically the Samsung's. Would the heat transfer from strip > paste > aluminum? Could you "peel" off any backing inhibiting cooling to the actual back of the cob? Or even have coolant directly in contact with your modified strip?
What's better; 3k strips, 3.5k strips, 4k strips? Is more 4k better? It seems to have more usable spectrum.. Especially if using reds surrounding these strips?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
might also want to consider a constant voltage meanwell like hlg 320-48aHey fellas loving the thread with these strips! Chasing maximum efficiency, coverage and spectrum ultimately with the 4ft Samsung H series C strips (3k and 4k), uvb bulbs, far reds (unsure on ratios for uvb, reds etc?)
So if someone wanted 25x 4ft H series C strips what would be the most efficient way to power them? Using a spacing of 30mm between strips the dimensions would be 1120x1200. If someone could help me out with the maths on that it would be greatly appreciated
Any of these ELG series drivers? 220v input BTW. Would that mean 12 strips on each driver?
Edit; also has anyone thought of water cooling these strips? Specifically the Samsung's. Would the heat transfer from strip > paste > aluminum? Could you "peel" off any backing inhibiting cooling to the actual back of the cob? Or even have coolant directly in contact with your modified strip?
What's better; 3k strips, 3.5k strips, 4k strips? Is more 4k better? It seems to have more usable spectrum.. Especially if using reds surrounding these strips?
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
i dont think you will be dissapointed....my 5ks are trouble free so far
MrTwist1
Well-Known Member
Yeah I've been running various Samsungs for a while now and I absolutely love them. No doubt these will be very similar in performance. Diffused light is absolutely the way forward. Orca film is my other fetish for the same reason. Cheersi dont think you will be dissapointed....my 5ks are trouble free so far
Yeah removing heat from the grow space was my main concern, quite unsure how effective the heat transfer would be from a strip as apposed to a cob?
Awesome those drivers are cheap
Yeah I've picked up on that a bit haha, every thread has a different answer
is supplemental ran the entire time during lights are on? Or only for short times after lights out? Thanks!
nogod_
Well-Known Member
Depends on why youre running supplementals. Some folks run far-red as a flower-trigger 5-10mins at lights on and off.
Others run supplementals to beef up the red/blue peaks in the spectrum.
Jury is still out as to how much red/blue is optimal for increased mass and resin production but the flower-trigger has been shown on more than one occasion to shorten flowering times.
Others run supplementals to beef up the red/blue peaks in the spectrum.
Jury is still out as to how much red/blue is optimal for increased mass and resin production but the flower-trigger has been shown on more than one occasion to shorten flowering times.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
What do you guys think about gluing magnets to the back of the strips? I'm planning on mounting my Samsung M series A strips to one of the fluorescent light fixture casings and thought it'd be easier if they just snap on like a magnet. They are pretty low output as is, I'm not too worried about heat sinking. To keep them from overheating I was going to only mount a few magnets so the whole strip won't be covered.
RandomHero8913
Well-Known Member
They may be thin enough that you could just place the magnet on the front. I think one of the first cookie sheet builds used magnets to secure them along with some kapton tape. Depending on your situation you may not need the tape.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Thanks...I'll read and do my homework.i hope so on the voltage droop....in all reality i could see a 30c TC very easily...
as far as driver offset...just the old fashioned way currently..3 drivers/3 timers...then the sequence will just be: 1x vero 29 4k....on 1hour...then 2x 3070 3500k will kick on for another hour...finally all vero eb,s mostly 3k and a couple 3500k too....then the reverse at the end of the day....
My hope is to ramp up intensity in the plants against an actual vapor pressure curve....this alone wont help me try to meet my goals but a new dehuy is forthcoming....
i am not all dialed in totally on this working but @wietefras really drove it home for me in my ignorance
on the driver offset...if anyone has suggestions for a different direction..i consider this only temporary to collect data....and i have most of the gear to build this too:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/multiple-driver-soft-on-set.866330/
Zulunature
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,
Really enjoying seeing the builds with these strips and other taking off... currently building nice 4ft clone light from discarded flouro housing...
What I was want to know is has anyone found suitable diffusers for the Bridgelux EB series strips?
Thanks in advance.
Really enjoying seeing the builds with these strips and other taking off... currently building nice 4ft clone light from discarded flouro housing...
What I was want to know is has anyone found suitable diffusers for the Bridgelux EB series strips?
Thanks in advance.
Chip Green
Well-Known Member
Caught a nice break today, found a solid collection of 2x2' florescent fixtures at a builder recycling store, only $5 each when the 50% off weekend extravaganza begins....Fully operational, almost a shame to take them apart, but the inside measurement is just a shade over 560mm
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
i feel like i have the exact opposite of what a good vapor pressure deficit curve is on an average basis....
where optimal vpd during the day (because of temp) has rh% around high 50s to low 70s especially between 70-80 degrees Fahren......
My example has me keeping great temps for ambient often 75-80F but my humidity stays down, sometimes into mid 30%....and even with my exhaust fan running 24\7 at night, generally i have a rise rh...high 60s. Again "optimal" should probably be around 40-50% at least according to temperature, where I hit about 62-65F.
After reading last night...i think i would run something like a 2 liter humidifier or fogger/mister homebrew and a 25 pint humidifier. Then instead of timers just use a relay attached to Arduino like sensors that will trip the humidifier during lights on, when needed and then the same for the dehuey but at lights off...
lastly i want a nice vpd ramp-up in the morning as light intensity builds...so the girls dont get just zapped from the hour zero
. and lets see how falling intensity and rh% will help everybody fall "asleep"... also have some 730nm to throw in the mix....but not yeti can just use timers...but damn thats 5 seperate timers...lol
ramble on
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PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
I just couldn't wait. Trying to save money and use what I already have, looks pretty nasty but it works! Bright!
This is going into my veg tent, 4' wide by only 2' tall. It's going to be really bright in there.
250par @ 18"
450par @ 12"
860par @ 6"
6 4ft M series A Samsung strips (the low power ones)
This is going into my veg tent, 4' wide by only 2' tall. It's going to be really bright in there.
250par @ 18"
450par @ 12"
860par @ 6"
6 4ft M series A Samsung strips (the low power ones)
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PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
It fits the width perfectly. Will need to mount it from the ceiling of the tent though.
I think I'll keep on the lookout for another 18" x 4' fixture and move these strips onto that to spread the light better.
Also I don't like how I used kapton tape. I want to give the magnet approach a try I think that will work well.
I didn't think about it before but it's kind of a hassle that wagos don't have screw mounts. I want to clean up the wiring bit don't have any way (other than tape?) to clean it all up.
Also, this isn't a grounded power cable I will need to switch that, but I don't know where I would attach the ground on this fixture? I guess the bare metal of the casing?
I think I'll keep on the lookout for another 18" x 4' fixture and move these strips onto that to spread the light better.
Also I don't like how I used kapton tape. I want to give the magnet approach a try I think that will work well.
I didn't think about it before but it's kind of a hassle that wagos don't have screw mounts. I want to clean up the wiring bit don't have any way (other than tape?) to clean it all up.
Also, this isn't a grounded power cable I will need to switch that, but I don't know where I would attach the ground on this fixture? I guess the bare metal of the casing?
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
A couple a thoughts. First of all... Kapton tape is a beautiful thing...very functional. In my opinion function always trumps beauty. And if the wires bother you, turn the fixture over, then you have a wire tray and you can tape or tyrap the wires down. Thanks for sharing.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
I won't turn it over because it's going into such a tight space I want to maximize every inch of vertical headroom. I think I'll tape the wires down and use screw mount zip ties to secure them into place.
I wasn't really intending that this would be the final build I just wanted to give it a try and test PAR, heat, etc. If the tape is going to hold however I'll probably just leave it! I might buy a small plastic box and mount it to the metal frame and put all the wiring in there.
The tent it's going into is only 24" tall! Very low and it's intended to be used to veg plants that I'll top multiple times so they bush out. I also plan on low stress training by bending down and one they are about right I will transfer them to a 5.5' tall Scrog (which will be running eb strips).
I took a 2x4x2 tent and layed it on top of a 2x4x5 tent. Kinda how some tents have a veg chamber ontop and a flower chamber on bottom I made that but stacking two tents. So my veg area is a total of 2' tall the plants will be growing almost right into the light.
Someone was talking about diffuse light. I might even put the diffuse cover back on the fixture so the plants can grow without worry they will touch the LEDs
aren't the samsung strips 24 volt?might also want to consider a constant voltage meanwell like hlg 320-48a