Bout to Blow Up the Basement

Red1966

Well-Known Member
Great reading ! When I first started (just a walk in closet grow) I wondered if a hood really made a big difference Besides easier heat control?
It makes a huge difference in heat control. Outside temps hit 105F here sometimes with 90%RH, so A/C is mandatory.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
I think he meant AC hoods

They do get rid heat but they are also a pain in the ass with all the ducting and fans and access to change the bulbs.

They are also IMPOSSIBLE to deal without taping them shut. So if you run co2 it's just pulling it out of the room :(

I'll try to post a picture later. Going camping

I mentioned the cage from the ceiling as that way you can duck under the screen, stand in the middle of it and train all the plants. (And burn your back on the bulb. Lol).
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
I think he meant AC hoods

They do get rid heat but they are also a pain in the ass with all the ducting and fans and access to change the bulbs.

They are also IMPOSSIBLE to deal without taping them shut. So if you run co2 it's just pulling it out of the room :(

I'll try to post a picture later. Going camping

I mentioned the cage from the ceiling as that way you can duck under the screen, stand in the middle of it and train all the plants. (And burn your back on the bulb. Lol).
I just assumed that you taped up hoods as a matter of routine, tho my blockbuster six seems leak free. My other hoods leaked like all hell. I don't think I can fit my fat ass into a 16" space without burning myself all to hell. I'll just pull the plants back from the outside or do it after the lights have cooled down. Enjoy your camping adventure. Taking the family with you?
 
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HottyToddy

Active Member
Is a bubble bucket DWC? Dude you are biting A LOT of for your first grow.

Please for the love of fucking Christ, heed some of my advice. I started with 2 600's over ebb and flow tables and now I have a total of 42k watts in three locations. DWC in vertical bulb rooms and hempy in one of the smaller rooms (11k)


Anyways...
You ARE going to need a co2 system if it's sealed. So you also need a proper PPM controller.

You can probably squeek by with temps in the basement. Your going to want to run a Dehu at night to boost temps and keep humidity in check. Humidity will skyrocket when the lights go out in a sealed space.

Anyways...on to the more important things you need, don't go jizzzing in your pants about hoods and bulbs you need solid basic tools at this point
1. A GOOD PH meter. Blue labs have served me well
2. Ppm meter
3. A fucking good air pump.
Those Eco plus things are utter pieces of shit. They are loud, hot, and don't last. I have four of the 110L ones, you can have them just pay the shipping cost.
Pondmaster pumps!! Quiet, strong, not hot and wow..what a concept you can replace the parts when they wear out. Seriously. Quality shit there
4. Cheap air stones work fine. I have tried them ALL I settled on the 2" round ones (the grey ones). Plan to buy new stones every run. They just get clogged and it's not worth the hassle. We have tried boiling, bleaching, baking, blowing air while boiling.. Fuck it, just buy new ones. When you harvest 60k worth of bud, suddenly $200 for airstones doesn't seem so bad.

5. Run beneficials, run beneficials, run beneficials. End of story

6. By a light meter on eBay and use it.

7. Fuck T5 for vegging dude, get another 400 or better a 600 (you can buy $30 MH bulbs and drive them at 600. T5 are great for clones and baby plants. They LOVE that light..they just are not strong enough for anything over 14" tall

8. Always err on the side of under feeding. Always.

9. Read read and then read some more.

10 and lastly.. The only "boosters" I use are the following. I have always done side by side tests of thing to see how they work.

1. Sea green kelp extract. Foliar feed, add to tea before dumping in the Rez..Awesome stuff

2. Phosphoload. God I love me a little diaziminode and paclobuytrozol.

3. Liquid gold by dry flower products. It's a filmic acid spray and fuck it works so well. I spray every other day from about week 5 till week 8. Really helps out on weight.
Ok, so I've been in Spain for 10 days attending my best friends wedding so I'm just now getting back to work. Thanks for all of the input, first of all. A couple of quick responses:

@legallyflying :
Thanks for all the great info. To clarify, this is my first CGE setup, not my first ever setup. I've been a soil gardener for almost 6 years. I should've made it more clear about my experience. Second, I'll be running a RDWC system. The term "Bubble Buckets" (BB) was in appropriately used in the intro post. My understanding is that BB's are stand alone dwc buckets, not recirculating with a reservoir. I can't thank you enough for all the great pointers. I love your advice "to read", as I do this everyday & will never stop learning.

Thanks again!
 

Twitch

Well-Known Member
i must have lucked out all my hood seal almost too good, its a little scary pulling them apart i think ia m going to break the glass i have to pull so hard.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
My block busters are like that, I almost want to turn the fan on before opening the first one. What is kind of fun (I have two rows of 6 of them). Is to unscrew all the covers and then turn the fan off..then they go bang bang bang bang and all open :).

HTD. If I had to give one word of advice to a new RDWC grower it would be RUN BENEFICIALS!!

Also, you would do well to head over to thcfarmer.com and check out their RDWC section. They have some VERY VERY knowledgable people over there who are absolutely killing it (and they also lack the flocks of newbs offering up bad advice).

My other bit of advice would be to get the plants nice and strain before putting them in the DWC. I have plunked clones in there but weaker plants are just allot more susceptible to issues. Now I veg in one gallon pots full of 80% perlite and 20% coco and transfer them into 8" net pots and hit the gas.

Let me know how it goes. RDWC will absolutely blow your mind coming from soil. The plants grow sooo fucking fast, it's crazy shit!

Oh yeah..lastly..your going to want a top off tank of some kind with a hose and float valve in your RDWC Rez. The plants will absorb an dizzying amount of water per day once they get bigger. Like 2-3 gallons a day and nobody wants to be chained to their grow room.
 

HottyToddy

Active Member
My block busters are like that, I almost want to turn the fan on before opening the first one. What is kind of fun (I have two rows of 6 of them). Is to unscrew all the covers and then turn the fan off..then they go bang bang bang bang and all open :).

HTD. If I had to give one word of advice to a new RDWC grower it would be RUN BENEFICIALS!!

Also, you would do well to head over to thcfarmer.com and check out their RDWC section. They have some VERY VERY knowledgable people over there who are absolutely killing it (and they also lack the flocks of newbs offering up bad advice).

My other bit of advice would be to get the plants nice and strain before putting them in the DWC. I have plunked clones in there but weaker plants are just allot more susceptible to issues. Now I veg in one gallon pots full of 80% perlite and 20% coco and transfer them into 8" net pots and hit the gas.

Let me know how it goes. RDWC will absolutely blow your mind coming from soil. The plants grow sooo fucking fast, it's crazy shit!

Oh yeah..lastly..your going to want a top off tank of some kind with a hose and float valve in your RDWC Rez. The plants will absorb an dizzying amount of water per day once they get bigger. Like 2-3 gallons a day and nobody wants to be chained to their grow room.

Thanks for all the great tips & pointers @legallyflying

I'm super excited about this RDWC project. I'm using H&G Aquaflakes 2-part line with most of their additives. When you mentioned "run bennies", are you referring to their drip clean, amino, multi-zen, or roots excelurator?

Or, do I need to get something in addition to these additives. I've read you have to add bennies to RDWC & was under the impression H&G full line was all I needed, in addition to Cal/Mag since I'll be using RO water.

Thanks!
 

HottyToddy

Active Member
image.jpg Samples from House & Garden are in. They hooked up Aqua A & B & all the additives, except "Magic Green." No worries, though! I was going to use a different Foliar anyway this run. I've heard there are better foliars out there so any suggestions is appreciated. H & G were really timely & all I had to do was fill out a card & pay for shipping.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Lots of good advice here, mixed with some that's a bit out of date.

First, magnetic ballasts may not be the ultimate in efficiency, but they make up for it in reliability and versatility. Whoever said you can't hang one on the wall was incorrect.

And there's more; it turns out that the 860W CDM lamps that put out such an amazing quality of spectrum (CRI =92!) ONLY run on old school magnetic thouies- set for MH bulbs, of all things. So much for 'magnetics are ready for the scrap heap.'

About them CDM lamps, gets all ya need to know;

http://advancedtechlighting.com/cdmea860.htm

Look at that spectrum graph and tell me that's not a revolution in HID lighting!

On to RDWC; I use it, I love it. Yes, it needs to be chilled, but the same chiller can also chill the rest of your op- and do it for less money than a minisplit ever thought possible. Your minisplit saves on up front cost FOR AC ONLY; don't forget to add more to buy a dehuey and yet more to buy a water chiller- when instead just setting up a bigger one in the first place is much more efficient.

In MY engineering book, efficiency can be used two ways; either use fewer resources for the same results... or get more results from the same resources. I've found that water cooling lets the grower step on the gas in their op a lot more than AC does.

Vertical growing means hood manufacturers are looking over their shoulders. Don't buy them, vertical is stunningly better. If you want to run 2x600W, do it this way; get five foot fencing and install two sections, each 6'3" long, and connect them end to end. This will give you a cylinder five feet tall and four feet in diameter, which is much better for that wattage than just 15" radius.

I use dry nutrient salts for results as good or better than anything from a water bottle. STUPID CHEAP too, especially when compared to H&G, lol

Snaps knows his shit. So do most of these guys. I only contradict their advice when my own experience runs strongly counter to theirs.

Agreed on bennies- aka beneficial bacteria, etc- in your RDWC. Crown feed and foliar spray with it, too. This is not a substitute for chilling your RDWC water to 66f.

Low EC is a good thing. Keep pH in the mid fives for veg; it should only see 6.0 it higher after week 6 of bloom.

I wasn't impressed with The Head Case Farm; I WAS one of their original RDWC/vertical growers- and they threw me out because they got jealous! -and I wouldn't buy their seeds.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
Lots of good advice here, mixed with some that's a bit out of date.

First, magnetic ballasts may not be the ultimate in efficiency, but they make up for it in reliability and versatility. Whoever said you can't hang one on the wall was incorrect.

And there's more; it turns out that the 860W CDM lamps that put out such an amazing quality of spectrum (CRI =92!) ONLY run on old school magnetic thouies- set for MH bulbs, of all things. So much for 'magnetics are ready for the scrap heap.'

About them CDM lamps, gets all ya need to know;

http://advancedtechlighting.com/cdmea860.htm

Look at that spectrum graph and tell me that's not a revolution in HID lighting!

On to RDWC; I use it, I love it. Yes, it needs to be chilled, but the same chiller can also chill the rest of your op- and do it for less money than a minisplit ever thought possible. Your minisplit saves on up front cost FOR AC ONLY; don't forget to add more to buy a dehuey and yet more to buy a water chiller- when instead just setting up a bigger one in the first place is much more efficient.

In MY engineering book, efficiency can be used two ways; either use fewer resources for the same results... or get more results from the same resources. I've found that water cooling lets the grower step on the gas in their op a lot more than AC does.

Vertical growing means hood manufacturers are looking over their shoulders. Don't buy them, vertical is stunningly better. If you want to run 2x600W, do it this way; get five foot fencing and install two sections, each 6'3" long, and connect them end to end. This will give you a cylinder five feet tall and four feet in diameter, which is much better for that wattage than just 15" radius.

I use dry nutrient salts for results as good or better than anything from a water bottle. STUPID CHEAP too, especially when compared to H&G, lol

Snaps knows his shit. So do most of these guys. I only contradict their advice when my own experience runs strongly counter to theirs.

Agreed on bennies- aka beneficial bacteria, etc- in your RDWC. Crown feed and foliar spray with it, too. This is not a substitute for chilling your RDWC water to 66f.

Low EC is a good thing. Keep pH in the mid fives for veg; it should only see 6.0 it higher after week 6 of bloom.

I wasn't impressed with The Head Case Farm; I WAS one of their original RDWC/vertical growers- and they threw me out because they got jealous! -and I wouldn't buy their seeds.
Wouldn't a 4' diameter cage be too large? In horizontal, I run 600w at 16" from the canopy. I'm setting up a 2 X 600w vertical grow right now. The lights are in a 48" long x 6" dia. cooltube. My tent is only 54" wide, so a 48" diameter cage would only leave 3" of space between the cage and the side of the tent.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Wouldn't a 4' diameter cage be too large? In horizontal, I run 600w at 16" from the canopy. I'm setting up a 2 X 600w vertical grow right now. The lights are in a 48" long x 6" dia. cooltube. My tent is only 54" wide, so a 48" diameter cage would only leave 3" of space between the cage and the side of the tent.
That's the tips of the buds, right? The rest of the plant is much further away. That space between 16" and 24" I'd where you want as much of the plant as possible, that whole zone is going to provide ideal lighting.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
That's the tips of the buds, right? The rest of the plant is much further away. That space between 16" and 24" I'd where you want as much of the plant as possible, that whole zone is going to provide ideal lighting.
It's 15"R right now, but can be expanded or contracted easily. That gives me 15" to 27" (two long sides of tent) or 12" wide space for the plants, at the two long sides of the tent, there is more room at the short sides.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
It's 15"R right now, but can be expanded or contracted easily. That gives me 15" to 27" (two long sides of tent) or 12" wide space for the plants, at the two long sides of the tent, there is more room at the short sides.
Nice! The adjustability gives you all the necessary options. From here, just let the plants tell you what they want.
 

Red1966

Well-Known Member
I'm using a C.A.P. Ebb&Flow bucket system, so I can move the plants themselves in or out easily, too. The lights are dimmable also. Designed this with adjust-ability in mind. Even blowers have speed controllers.
 

doubletake

Well-Known Member
They are both a waste of money??

Magnetic ballasts are fucking heavy and HOT as fuck! And where is this heat coming from...wasted electricity. Simple physics.
They also produce less light from the same wattage and don't offer a 10% boost in wattage and light like a digital ballast.

They also wear out over time and produce less and less light. And the staggering thing is..they are only like $70 cheaper than a good digital ballast.

So say you save $70 on your ballast at the cost of let's conservatively say 10% less light and yield. Hell let's say 5%. A 1k bulb will kick out 25 ounces with a capable grower. 5% less would mean 1.25 ounces less. So you lost out on about $250 (on the west coast anyways lol)

Plus you can mount them on the wall which is a real nice feature.


There are several tests of various hoods out there in terms of light pattern and output. The blockbuster is half the size of the mag and has more impressive numbers. It's all a gimmick my friend. Tell me this..the light from a bulb emits from the SIDES of the bulb, not the tip or base. Sure it sends the light out in all directions but hold a light meter under a vertical bulb and then to the side of it..the light is literally around 900% brighter.

So you have this super long hood...that is around 3 times the length of the bulb...and the side reflectors in the hood face down..so where exactly is all that light coming from to illuminate such a long pattern under the bulb?

When they came out I thought oh yeah!! These are bomb, then I took my light meter into the store..whoa..big but no more usable light. A finite amount of light comes from a bulb...you can only spread it around so much.
Nice man that all makes perfect sense holy shit about the magnum xxl I wanted them so bad but I'll stick to my block busters
 
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