Anything to worry about?

see pictures. Currently growing in a 36x20” tent. Humidity is typically 45-60% temps typically are around 82-83*, but have gotten up to 92-93* today because the weather here cannot make its mind up. Medium is Happy Frog/Ocean Forest mix+Additional perlite. First pic is Girl Scout Fem seed that popped from the soil 2/23 (3 gal airpot). Second pick is a Bruce banner #3 that popped 2/23 (3 gal smart pot). Third pic is my Lemon OG Haze that popped 3/4 (3 gal smart pot). Light is rapid led 2x2 COB fixture that was turned up 100% on the potentiometer, but I backed it down to about 50-60% today. Full power is 225w. Light is at 25”.

All pictures show slight-moderated discoloration of the leaves. First pic looks like cal/mag or maybe phosphorus??? Any ideas? No true nutes yet but I’ve been supplementing with Calmagic Calmag ~7ml/gallon. Since these girls are relatively young, I have just been misting at the base of the stock of the plant when the soil has dried out. Pots still has some water weight, so I haven’t formally “watered” any of them yet—just the moisture in the soil and periodic misting of the soil.

Nothing to worry about? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you need more details.

check your pH... Looks like maybe giving TOO much nutrients at this stage... Dial it back a bit and check the pH run off and post back dude.

Yeah the first image looks like nute burn.

mickey oneil said:

see pictures. Currently growing in a 36x20” tent. Humidity is typically 45-60% temps typically are around 82-83*, but have gotten up to 92-93* today because the weather here cannot make its mind up. Medium is Happy Frog/Ocean Forest mix+Additional perlite. First pic is Girl Scout Fem seed that popped from the soil 2/23 (3 gal airpot). Second pick is a Bruce banner #3 that popped 2/23 (3 gal smart pot). Third pic is my Lemon OG Haze that popped 3/4 (3 gal smart pot). Light is rapid led 2x2 COB fixture that was turned up 100% on the potentiometer, but I backed it down to about 50-60% today. Full power is 225w. Light is at 25”.

All pictures show slight-moderated discoloration of the leaves. First pic looks like cal/mag or maybe phosphorus??? Any ideas? No true nutes yet but I’ve been supplementing with Calmagic Calmag ~7ml/gallon. Since these girls are relatively young, I have just been misting at the base of the stock of the plant when the soil has dried out. Pots still has some water weight, so I haven’t formally “watered” any of them yet—just the moisture in the soil and periodic misting of the soil.

Nothing to worry about? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if you need more details.

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Hey, so I have a couple suggestions for you.

Firstly, your humidity is too low for such high temps. I like to generally use the VPD chart in this link as guidance for temp and RH.

http://www.just4growers.com/stream/temperature-humidity-and-c02/vapor-pressure-deficit-the-hidden-force-on-your-plants.aspx

Basically, with high temps and low RH, your plant is transpiring more. Taking up more water from the roots and expelling it through the leaves. Your happy frog soil has nutrients in it, so with your very high VPD, the plant is sucking up all those nutrients when it doesn’t need them. You were right to not start them on additional bottled nutes!

Secondly, watering will be tough with very young seedlings in those large pots. Growing media holds water, and 3 gallons of media will hold a lot more water than a young root system can use. Again, your instincts were right on about using a spray bottle to moisten the soil just around the root system. It’ll just be trickier to keep the moisture level on target. Personally, I germinate in rapid rooters, then transplant to 4” pots with seedling soil, then into 9” (which is honestly a bit of a jump and I have to water really sparingly), then finally into 10 gallon. Upon every transplant I try and keep the watering on the lighter side until the root system has grown out a bit.

Roots need oxygen and water at all times. Generally, when watering container plants you want to fully saturate the media, drain any standing water in the saucer after getting about 10 - 20% runoff, and then wait until the top inch or two of the soil dries out completely, then repeat the cycle.

Watering can be tricky, even for experienced gardeners. I worked at a plant nursery for years where my primary job was watering containerized plants and I still use a moisture meter to gauge the moisture level deep in the pot.

As far as any nute deficiencies, it’s too early in their life for that to be a concern. Young seedlings like a low strength balanced feed, like a 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Although, like I said, your soil has nutrients in it, so you have to factor that in.

All that being said, your babies look pretty good! Good luck and happy growing

CookieKush said:

check your pH... Looks like maybe giving TOO much nutrients at this stage... Dial it back a bit and check the pH run off and post back dude.

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Ph of soil (and water going in) is 6.3-6.5. Only nutes I’ve given is supplementing calmag. I have stopped supplementing and will monitor

ClassicT said:

Hey, so I have a couple suggestions for you.

Firstly, your humidity is too low for such high temps. I like to generally use the VPD chart in this link as guidance for temp and RH.

http://www.just4growers.com/stream/temperature-humidity-and-c02/vapor-pressure-deficit-the-hidden-force-on-your-plants.aspx

Basically, with high temps and low RH, your plant is transpiring more. Taking up more water from the roots and expelling it through the leaves. Your happy frog soil has nutrients in it, so with your very high VPD, the plant is sucking up all those nutrients when it doesn’t need them. You were right to not start them on additional bottled nutes!

Secondly, watering will be tough with very young seedlings in those large pots. Growing media holds water, and 3 gallons of media will hold a lot more water than a young root system can use. Again, your instincts were right on about using a spray bottle to moisten the soil just around the root system. It’ll just be trickier to keep the moisture level on target. Personally, I germinate in rapid rooters, then transplant to 4” pots with seedling soil, then into 9” (which is honestly a bit of a jump and I have to water really sparingly), then finally into 10 gallon. Upon every transplant I try and keep the watering on the lighter side until the root system has grown out a bit.

Roots need oxygen and water at all times. Generally, when watering container plants you want to fully saturate the media, drain any standing water in the saucer after getting about 10 - 20% runoff, and then wait until the top inch or two of the soil dries out completely, then repeat the cycle.

Watering can be tricky, even for experienced gardeners. I worked at a plant nursery for years where my primary job was watering containerized plants and I still use a moisture meter to gauge the moisture level deep in the pot.

As far as any nute deficiencies, it’s too early in their life for that to be a concern. Young seedlings like a low strength balanced feed, like a 1-1-1 or 2-2-2. Although, like I said, your soil has nutrients in it, so you have to factor that in.

All that being said, your babies look pretty good! Good luck and happy growing

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Humidity and temps are typically on point—got a little crazy yesterday but I’ve been consistent w temps and humidity for the most part.

Thanks for the thoroughness of your response. I did start two of the three off in Rapid Rooters and as soon as they popped I transplanted into 3 gal pots. My reasoning for transplanting into their final medium/pot so early is I’m a working father of 4 and don’t have a lot of free time—I should probably start gradually increasing pot size for my subsequent grows—but you’re right; very tricky to water without drowning them. Thanks!

You don't need to be feeding calmag

xtsho said:

You don't need to be feeding calmag

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Agreed.
There is a time and place for all supplements, and calmag doesn't have many.

Tim1987 said:

Agreed.
There is a time and place for all supplements, and calmag doesn't have many.

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In Coco its relevant, in soil... nup.

CookieKush said:

In Coco its relevant, in soil... nup.

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That depends man.
Which one disolves faster? Magnesium
Which sinks and attaches itself like a piece of bone? Calcium
How are a lot of rocks formed? Calmag
You can need cal and mag in the garden often. Most people make the mistake of using lime in their flower beds, and dont use any wood ashes or ebsom.
The gardens look great, then suddenly, in bloom BAM.
They lockout on magnesium, because they had an abundance of calcium from the lime, in their soil.
Calcium can be a coco coir disaster, if you add lime. If you add calmag in this situation, the problem only gets worse.
Coir isnt much different to soil. Shit just happens a hell of a lot faster.

No nutes needed .... Yet .

FFOF CAN carry a plant for up to week 5 without any additional feed.
It is buffered to 6.3 right out of the bag due to the oyster shell amendment .
It CAN burn occasionally with some strains which gets amplified by adding more nutes.
The tip colors are not bad as it shows it at border of burn.

Watering can be around base of plant until plant matures and utilizes more of container.
It can be easily overwatered at this stage by " flooding " the container at this stage.

Nix the CALMAG unless you are using RO.
FFOF is stable enough for even tap water - just keep PH at 6.5.
Dark green ( nitro ) is what is throwing tip burn. It's tolerating it so far.

Tim1987 said:

That depends man.
Which one disolves faster? Magnesium
Which sinks and attaches itself like a piece of bone? Calcium
How are a lot of rocks formed? Calmag
You can need cal and mag in the garden often. Most people make the mistake of using lime in their flower beds, and dont use any wood ashes or ebsom.
The gardens look great, then suddenly, in bloom BAM.
They lockout on magnesium, because they had an abundance of calcium from the lime, in their soil.
Calcium can be a coco coir disaster, if you add lime. If you add calmag in this situation, the problem only gets worse.
Coir isnt much different to soil. Shit just happens a hell of a lot faster.

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Yea, i know the salts can build up, but for Coco its pretty well known it only has K in, nothing much else... Reading about you always have the two camps for buffer or no buffer in coco, personally i prefer buffering then leave it be for 2 weeks, pure RO water pH'd to 5.8. In Week 2 I slowly add other essential nutrients, again keeping the levels in check etc.

Ultimately its all about keeping acidity in check.

CookieKush said:

Yea, i know the salts can build up, but for Coco its pretty well known it only has K in, nothing much else... Reading about you always have the two camps for buffer or no buffer in coco, personally i prefer buffering then leave it be for 2 weeks, pure RO water pH'd to 5.8. In Week 2 I slowly add other essential nutrients, again keeping the levels in check etc.

Ultimately its all about keeping acidity in check.

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Couldn't agree more bro.
Too low, you only get mag, and the cal attaches to itself and snowballs.
Great point, dude. Well said.
I buffer mine with mag. Ive got cal in my water.

Completly agree with @ClassicT says, with the VPD one at the top... this part of growing period humidity is your friend... remember you arent growing weed right now, you are growing a plant that will flower you weed later, so take care of tbe plant... low rh is a worthy goal in late flower... it is your foe currently. Hell i run humidifiers at times...

Tim1987 said:

Couldn't agree more bro.
Too low, you only get mag, and the cal attaches to itself and snowballs.
Great point, dude. Well said.
I buffer mine with mag. Ive got cal in my water.

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I've not calmag'd the water for this weeks feed... Literally just a small cup of RO Water at 5.8 pH and run off at 6.2 avg. I'm thinking by Saturday next weekend i'll be supplementing some Calmag Extra in with the RO water pH'd to 5.8 just to kick things along a bit as the buffer should be used out by 2 weeks time.

CookieKush said:

I've not calmag'd the water for this weeks feed... Literally just a small cup of RO Water at 5.8 pH and run off at 6.2 avg. I'm thinking by Saturday next weekend i'll be supplementing some Calmag Extra in with the RO water pH'd to 5.8 just to kick things along a bit as the buffer should be used out by 2 weeks time.

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Yeah man, you know watz up

If you use nutes that provide the macro and micro elements that the plants need you will never need to add calmag. That goes for both soil and coco. I've been growing in 100% coco for years and have never used a drop of calmag and have never had any calcium or magnesium deficiencies. It drives me crazy when I read posts where someone is asking about an issue they are having with their plants and someone says add some calmag. Calmag is not a cure all. It's a money maker for the nutrient companies and they have marketed it so effectively that a large number of growers think that they have to have it. They don't. Those $15 quart bottles of calmag have at most a dimes worth of calcium and magnesium in them. The bottle costs more than what's in them.

xtsho said:

If you use nutes that provide the macro and micro elements that the plants need you will never need to add calmag. That goes for both soil and coco. I've been growing in 100% coco for years and have never used a drop of calmag and have never had any calcium or magnesium deficiencies. It drives me crazy when I read posts where someone is asking about an issue they are having with their plants and someone says add some calmag. Calmag is not a cure all. It's a money maker for the nutrient companies and they have marketed it so effectively that a large number of growers think that they have to have it. They don't. Those $15 quart bottles of calmag have at most a dimes worth of calcium and magnesium in them. The bottle costs more than what's in them.

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I like to supplement it in Coco since Coco has none to begin with and Kush strains which I grow CRAVE for Cal and Mag and Iron. But you are 100% right, its not the golden bullet people think it is... Nor is it the ONLY issue to plague growers... I think its a nice to have around product, same as any Micro or Bloom supplements.

And for sure, the nutrient companies OFC want our money... They aren't doing it out of kindness

xtsho said:

If you use nutes that provide the macro and micro elements that the plants need you will never need to add calmag. That goes for both soil and coco. I've been growing in 100% coco for years and have never used a drop of calmag and have never had any calcium or magnesium deficiencies. It drives me crazy when I read posts where someone is asking about an issue they are having with their plants and someone says add some calmag. Calmag is not a cure all. It's a money maker for the nutrient companies and they have marketed it so effectively that a large number of growers think that they have to have it. They don't. Those $15 quart bottles of calmag have at most a dimes worth of calcium and magnesium in them. The bottle costs more than what's in them.

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Me too man.
If i had a balanced nutrient and RO i reckon i wouldnt need it either.
I need to add ebsom because of the lime in my water, or further down the road i get calcium tox.
The sulphur keeps my medium ph down too.

CookieKush said:

I like to supplement it in Coco since Coco has none to begin with and Kush strains which I grow CRAVE for Cal and Mag and Iron. But you are 100% right, its not the golden bullet people think it is... Nor is it the ONLY issue to plague growers... I think its a nice to have around product, same as any Micro or Bloom supplements.

And for sure, the nutrient companies OFC want our money... They aren't doing it out of kindness

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I agree too. Its quite a big money making gimmick.
There are some real snakeoil salesmen out there.
Have to know when to supplement.