Anyone Know What's Causing This?
- Thread starter neverever
- Start date
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the forum. Get a 30x magnifying glass and look close, bet you will see a parasite that is eating those leaves. You need to address this immediately. There are many insecticides available. Get one with some neem oil in it, a common ingredient, and spray them today. Again in a couple of days, then weekly until you don't see any more spots forming. VV
Home_Grown
Well-Known Member
Most probably spidermites mate.
kindprincess
Well-Known Member
it's not spidermites, you can't see any damage that they would cause (freckles)
often, the bottom leaves of a plant will die of as it gets bigger. when the leaves become not needed, the plant will use them for food. it's common to lose the bottom two sets of leaves in late veg. how's the new growth, everything up from those leaves?
kp
buckstboys
Active Member
um it could b a few things water on the leafes . if on the under side of the leafes is a lump it is a bug egg
babygro
Well-Known Member
This is what really pisses me off about this site - out of 5 or 6 people not one single person has given this guy the correct advice he needs. Bugs? Are you freaking serious? Spider mites? That leaf damage looks nothing like spider mite damage, in fact the leaves look nothing like bug damage full stop. It's leaf chlorosis ffs!
Folks, seriously please, if you don't know the answer - say NOTHING. Saying nothing is better than bad or wrong advice.
His plants are Nitrogen or Magnesium deficient - hard to say which without more information. N or Mg deficient - the two most common indoor deficiencies - what a surpise.
babygro
Well-Known Member
Perhaps you should use google to figure out what spider mite damage looks like?
Destrukto
Active Member
Back to the other post about "reading more carefully" as you apparently DID NOT notice my post was informative to the point that it was NOT spider mite damage because spider mite damage doesn't look anything close to that..
Learn to read maybe?
Although I will admit my wordage for that post didn't seem to be proper..
It's better to let people do research on they're on instead of coming to communities like this one and expecting people like yourself to spoon feed them all the information they need, which in doing this creates forum leechers and then thats when it becomes a problem... Forums are suppose to be a community, not a place to come to and leech information.. Give a little get a little... all I can say.
Learn to read maybe?
Although I will admit my wordage for that post didn't seem to be proper..
It's better to let people do research on they're on instead of coming to communities like this one and expecting people like yourself to spoon feed them all the information they need, which in doing this creates forum leechers and then thats when it becomes a problem... Forums are suppose to be a community, not a place to come to and leech information.. Give a little get a little... all I can say.
babygro
Well-Known Member
Firstly, don't be rude to me, I'm perfectly capable of reading thank you.
Secondly, none of this has any relevance whatsoever to my point that that not one single person actually gave the original poster the advice he needed, and that was, that his plant was either N or Mg deficient.
All the waffle and piffle about bugs and spider mites was not only wrong, but irrelevant.
As I said earlier, if you don't know the answer, saying nothing is far better than giving wrong information.
You're doing well for 12 posts.
neverever
Active Member
Ok. So first of all i think everyone needs to chillout just a little bit. Second of all thank you to everyone who tried to help me whether you were right or wrong. And thirdly heres some more pics so we can finally settle this because i dont know what to think now. And im sorry but i thought a forum called marijuana plant problems was for asking questions but evidently not Destrukto.
neverever
Active Member
These photos are all from the same plant. On this plant the problem seems to only be on the middle leaves. The new leaves on the top of the plant are fine. Its big bud. I havn't used any nutrients other than superthrive which ive only used once. I recently repotted it so i assumed the nutrients in the soil would be good for a little while.
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neverever
Active Member
These are all from the other plant. On this plant the brown/yellow spots are also on the very top leaves but there are very few. Its big bud. I havn't used any nutrients other than superthrive which ive only used once. I recently repotted it so i assumed the nutrients in the new soil would be good for a little while.
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daddychrisg
Well-Known Member
I know I should not post since I don't know the correct answer...But I would have thought a PH fluctuation...But hell, I don't know shit! GL Neverever..I think babygro is correct after thinking about it for awhile...And I think it is N....Do some research, and I hope others help out on this...
babygro
Well-Known Member
It's still hard to tell what deficiency you have as both Nitrogen and Magnesium have very similar symptoms early on. Without more information, the only sure way to know by looking at the leaves is after the symptom progresses and the plant sheds its leaves.
Nitrogen deficient plants leaves go all yellow and then slightly darker amber yellow in places before going brown through stages of light tan to dark brown and then dropping off. Magnesium deficient plants tend to yellow between the veins and leaf ends before moving further up the leaf turning it yellow, but the centre of the leaf tends to remain green while the ends start turning and shrivelling up and going light brown to dark brown, you also get these dark brown rust coloured spots with Magnesium and they progress UP the plant to new leaf growth in advanced stages as well.
Now that you've mentioned you're using distilled water, it pretty much confirms in my mind that you have Magnesium deficiency. Repotting won't always help Mg deficient plants where it will Nitrogen deficient ones because there's not an awful lot of residual Magnesium in compost whereas there is Nitrogen. This is why experienced growers add dolomite lime and Calcified Seaweed to add back in Magnesium and Calcium to the compost and to help feed micro-nutrients to the soil micro fauna. Plants also get a good supply of micro nutrients and Magnesium and Calcium from tapwater and that's why using distilled water which has had all its dissolved salts removed, including Magnesium and Calcium can produce Magnesium deficient plants.
Magnesium also tends to reduce in availability in soil at low ph's of 5.5-6.0, so feeding a lowered ph irrigation water will start to move the compost ph downwards which isn't really what you want to do.
Compost is ph self buffering. What that means is, that compost comes with its own ph which can be anything between 6.5-7.0 and the only way you'll change that ph is by watering with a lower or higher ph water than the composts own ph value. The ph movement is also very slow and that's what we mean by 'ph buffering', in other words it's going to take an awful lot of water out of the composts own ph range to start moving it, and by the time that happens the plant is either repotted or harvested. This is why ph is rarely ever an issue in soil compost grows as long as you're dealing with decent quality ph adjusted compost and irrigation water that is within reasonable ranges of the composts ph value. The more out of range the water is the faster the ph movement will be. This is also the other reason experienced growers use dolomite lime in their composts - it helps and adds to the composts ph buffering ability and ensures the compost ph value can't go above 7.0. As many peoples tap water ph is 7.5 and above, dolomite lime can be very helpful in controlling the compost ph as well as adding Magnesium and Calcium.
My suggestion to you for your problem is to start feeding it 50/50 Distilled water and tap water and add in about a tablespoon of epsom salts per gallon of water. Dissolve the epsom salts first in some warm water. You can also foliar feed epsom salts at a slight reduced quantity of about 2-3 teaspoons per gallon. Unfortunately your damaged leaves won't improve and all you'll manage to do is stop the problem spreading or put it in check. You can also use something called Cal/Mag, but I have no experience of that myself.
You then need to find a solution to this for your next grow, which may just mean using 100% tap water, but it might be worth just checking on the EC and PH of your tapwater first.
Long post, but I hope this may help a few people with N, Mg and Ph problems.