Anybody tried the ELG version of Meanwells, Rather than HLG...

Joe34

Joe34

Active Member
Meanwell made a ELG version, which apparantly was created to be price competitive...
More info here - https://www.led-professional.com/products/led-driver-ics-modules/mean-well-introduces-new-price-effective-high-voltage-high-power-led-power-supply-series

The ELG range pretty much mirrors the HLG range spec for spec up to the HLG-240.
Here is the range - http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/led-driver-elg-240.shtml

Looking at the spec sheets, I cant see many differences, other than the ELG case de looks more industrial, and the ELG is lighter in weight.

The efficiency is the same, the V/A ranges are the same...

The prices are cheaper than its HLG versions.

Anybody heard anything bad about them?
 
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caretak3r

caretak3r

Well-Known Member
Joe34 said:
Meanwell made a ELG version, which apparantly was created to be price competitive...
More info here - https://www.led-professional.com/products/led-driver-ics-modules/mean-well-introduces-new-price-effective-high-voltage-high-power-led-power-supply-series

The ELG range pretty much mirrors the HLG range spec for spec up to the HLG-240.
Here is the range - http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/led-driver-elg-240.shtml

Looking at the spec sheets, I cant see many differences, other than the ELG case de looks more industrial, and the ELG is lighter in weight.

The efficiency is the same, the V/A ranges are the same...

The prices are cheaper than its HLG versions.

Anybody heard anything bad about them?
Click to expand...
I just recently picked up an ELG-150-c1400a. It is NOT a good option for a Quantum 304 board - the voltage limit is too low. It is a PERFECT fit for 2X Bridgelux V22C (50V cobs). With the built-in potentiometer all the way down, it pulls about 50W from the wall. All the way up, it pulls about 190W from the wall.
 
caretak3r

caretak3r

Well-Known Member
JavaCo said:
They are ok for 220 volts but the max output on those hooked up to 110 volts is 180watts so you lose 25% of load. But thats the main difference the ELG-240 hooked up to 110 makes it a 180watt driver. The HLG 240s dont do that when hooked up to 110 they will still put out 240watts.
Click to expand...
I saw the 110/220 spec difference AFTER mine arrived. Thankfully, mine isn't acting that way in my real world testing (as posted above, I can pull 190W from my elg-150-c1400a)
 
Joe34

Joe34

Active Member
caretak3r said:
HLG A series (with a pot for the voltage adjustment) can go up some. ELG doesnt' have a POT to adjust the voltage so I was just curious. hoping not expecting
Click to expand...
I can see now you said it your driver only has adjustable current.

However the ELG-240-36A I was thinking to get allows for both adjstable current and Volt with the A model, or the B model if applying own pot

http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=ELG-240&mws=F53F34B19F590BD1

Perhaps they do one in that range of ELG's with what you wanted...
 
Chip Green

Chip Green

Well-Known Member
caretak3r said:
I saw the 110/220 spec difference AFTER mine arrived. Thankfully, mine isn't acting that way in my real world testing (as posted above, I can pull 190W from my elg-150-c1400a)
Click to expand...
I did that exact same thing....didn't read enough of the data sheet, although its still useful if I understand this correctly...
I ordered the ELG-240-C700A expecting 343 forward volts, so running it on 110v input, the forward V will actually be 257 right????

EDIT: Yes, ill answer my own question here, its written in plain English on the case of the driver.... I really need to SLOW DOWN and READ while researching this stuff ......:wall:
 
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G

goofy81

Well-Known Member
I tried to find some difference besides the casing and minor rating differences. But from what I can see, hlg offers 7 years warranty where as elg 5 years.
Maybe the hlg uses better capacitors or something. Won't know until someone actually opens both up to have a peek inside.
 
P

PiKasso

Member
Another thing i do not see mentioned is that the ELG drivers dim 0-10V as opposed to 1-10V which the HLG does. This should mean you could use your arduino controller to dim all the way down to off without needing a power switch relay(like you need for the HLG) and eliminate the need for any extra external light timers(that can fall on the unreliable side from time to time!)... am i off here?!?
 
zangtumtum

zangtumtum

Well-Known Member
I use on 220v ELG-100-C1400B and ELG-240-C1400B,I can confirm the voltage in spec and they are very stable. The voltage are similar to HLG but not the same.
The drivers can dimm from 0% to 100%, at 0% are completely off, different form HLG that can dimm from 10% to 100%.
ELG-100-C1400B in my hand, at the wall after 2 hours is stable at 108 watt, with CREE or BRIDGELUX.
ELG-240-C1400B at the wall after 2 hours in a passive system is stable 252 watt with CREE.
See and confront the report,realy interesting many things and data,
for example:
ELG-240H-C1400 > MTBF > 235K hrs min
HLG-240H-C1400 > MTBF > 180K hrs min
 
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alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
zangtumtum said:
I use on 220v ELG-100-C1400B and ELG-240-C1400B,I can confirm the voltage in spec and they are very stable. The voltage are similar to HLG but not the same.
The drivers can dimm from 0% to 100%, at 0% are completely off, different form HLG that can dimm from 10% to 100%.
ELG-100-C1400B in my hand, at the wall after 2 hours is stable at 108 watt, with CREE or BRIDGELUX.
ELG-240-C1400B at the wall after 2 hours in a passive system is stable 252 watt with CREE.
See and confront the report,realy interesting many things and data,
for example:
ELG-240H-C1400 > MTBF > 235K hrs min
HLG-240H-C1400 > MTBF > 180K hrs min
Click to expand...
Some (newer) HLGs go down to 0% as well. I can confirm this with HLG-320H-C2100B. On the other hand HLG-120H-C1050B won't dimm completely.
 
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S

Shugglet

Well-Known Member
zangtumtum said:
I use on 220v ELG-100-C1400B and ELG-240-C1400B,I can confirm the voltage in spec and they are very stable. The voltage are similar to HLG but not the same.
The drivers can dimm from 0% to 100%, at 0% are completely off, different form HLG that can dimm from 10% to 100%.
ELG-100-C1400B in my hand, at the wall after 2 hours is stable at 108 watt, with CREE or BRIDGELUX.
ELG-240-C1400B at the wall after 2 hours in a passive system is stable 252 watt with CREE.
See and confront the report,realy interesting many things and data,
for example:
ELG-240H-C1400 > MTBF > 235K hrs min
HLG-240H-C1400 > MTBF > 180K hrs min
Click to expand...
If you are using them on 220v that is exactly what is expected.... how do they preform on 110 is the question
 
qballizhere

qballizhere

Well-Known Member
There are small differences between the 2 mainly for me I wanted the software dimming and if you want them on a hlg driver you have to order 200 drivers at a time. From meanwell usa HLG & HVGC-D Type (Timer dimming), this is our optional model, MOQ 200pcs. Production L/T is also 30 days(+6 extra days now).
The elg you do not you can order 1, yes there is a 6 week wait most places dont have them in stock.
To know the difference between 120v and 240v look at the static characteristic power factor and efficiency vs load
De-rating is needed under low input voltage.
The elgs came out just before some of the hlgs were dimmable they only were going to 10% the newer hlgs go down to 0%
The elgs are $10-15 cheaper per driver maybe the difference between a few components or the automated line.
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
somebody else said these were performing over spec at 115V input.

my first elg-240-48A is putting out 5.5A with 2 cobs(@53V -> ~ 290W) w.115V input

i just built a new 9-banger cxm22 3000k 90cri light for a 3x3 tent (overkill yes but it goes with the territory :hump:) and will light it up with the ELG - should be super efficient with 9 cobs at 600 mA and have great coverage. ill test it at both 115 and 230V input

3 things i dont like about these:
1.dimming screws are on the back

2.there is no ground lead, you have to physically ground the case which is a little less elegant than tossing a simple cord end on. it can be made pretty with a ground lead and some heat shrink tubing i suppose.

3. both input and output leads are blue/brown. too easy to mess up i like red and black for dc side color scheme. i dont wanna find out what happens when you land 230V ac to the DC outputs
 
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