another round: Mini-Fridge and Led Light Bulbs and Post Whoring

@safety meeting

I see you around from time to time mang! Talking led's and such.

You should post more, I wanna cut of the Blulu

I went and got most splitters and two phillips 10.5 w bulbs one red one blue. so now I have 97 watts of leds in my little cab plus two 23 watt cfls. so your saying when I go to flower I should still have some blue but get more of the red leds? out of the phillips and cree which do you like more?

@italianstallion24

I like them both, phillips and Cree . Mainly because the phillips are 3000k [great veg and flower spectrum by itself] and the Crees aren't. But they fill in nicely around the 3000k with the 2.7K and the 5K.

The phillips is essentially a downlight, so almost all lumens/PAR is being aimed directly at whatever is lighted, so I eliminated reflectors.The cree are still an omni directional and you are using roughly half with irridation.

and Yes, more red in flower but still some blue. Perfect example is people using MH for veg because of the blue spectrum and then using HPS and even trying to use "bluer" bulbs like an Ushio to offset the heavy red that a HPS [2200k] has.

Thats a huge simplification, but the two things to look at are, light spectrum absorbance and Chlorophyll peaks according to intensity/spectrum.

Red and blue have the highest absorbance followed by green and yellows, which are used in a plants overall "ability" to photosynthesize.

Chlorophyll peaks are also in the red and blue spectrums but chlorophyll is usually produced on some level throughout the PAR spectrum. Beta carotene has a peak in the greenish blue.


During veg, blue provides health for the grow structure and red will control Rate of growth structure.

• Too much red in vegetation can cause serious strectching, less red usually means a "fuller" canopied plant with bigger leaves, than stems.
  
• Not enough blue in Flowering, can cause stretching of the stems and budsites, but is a good reason why small or "fluffy" buds are produced in most cases. Lots of red, specifically deep red will fatten up those cola's with an increased apperance of the blue in flower.

thanks that was really helpful man I appreciate it. so now I should have more blue in veg and more red in flower. so should I take out my red now? or should I just leave them in how they are?

italianstallion24 said:

thanks that was really helpful man I appreciate it. so now I should have more blue in veg and more red in flower. so should I take out my red now? or should I just leave them in how they are?

Click to expand...

Don't change a thing and flower them however, then maybe the next time, tinker. Dont just take my word for it, I guess, even though I am trying to give you suggestions grounded in experience, but lighting choice is like an opinion, everyone has one

I am settled on running a heavy 3000k, with 2700 ww to really get that all the deep red it can muster and then using a small amount of the 5000k to provide blue wavelengths to stimulate the plant while it photosynthezies in flower. Blue also has some UV-A and maybe a tad of Uv-B, which are also provided by the noon day [where it peaks] and early spring sun.This is another reason people pack on the blue during veg, tricking the plant into thinking it is spring....!

Although for the last few months I have only been running 3000k/5000k as veg and only about 10-15 watts /per sq. ft.
so about 40 watts overall.

In another smaller veg chamber, I have been running 3000k as veg only, for about the last 3 months. 20w's to do about 2 sq. ft. and plants veg fine, maybe a tad slow, but no health problems being under that spectrum.

hmmm good things to take into consideration.. thanks a ton man you've been pretty nice and help full so far! I think im just gonna veg my plants for maybe 2 or 3 more weeks depending on how big they get in the next few weeks then flip to 12\12 cause right now they are only about 3 inches tall and only got 5 or 6 nodes on them. im trying to get them nice and bushy before flower cause im not working with much space

Little update....taken yesterday..pistils starting to pop after a week or so....

Again, organic soil mix, only fed watter, rotten nettle juice [nettle bier] and coco water. They are starting to green up a bit, not fade actually. Just in time before they really set flowers.

I don't really post my photos anywhere else so here's a little more outdoor going...

Pink pistils and all......

Looking beautiful man. Keep up the good work

Abiqua said:

I don't really post my photos anywhere else so here's a little more outdoor going...

Pink pistils and all......
View attachment 3241934

View attachment 3241935

Click to expand...

Gorgeous, I love the pink color coming from the pistils, I hope she eventually tastes as good as she looks

@Hanky92 thanks hank! I do believe she is the Stinky Pink [y]. Gonna clone some of her lower branches and reveg, so I can clone this line. The pistils are f'in pink. Which is punk I guess

@mrbossman671 thanks boss, I do consider myself a poor indoor grower. Maybe not much better outside either Gettin there, though!

@italianstallion24

Good luck with the grow....feel free to post some pics if you wants to.

Man super jealous about that food garden. Iv wanted to start onne but our ground is just to horrible for it.

Sent from my HTC One X using Rollitup mobile app

@essayons

Ever thought about raised beds?

I built these from old fencing [cedar] and literally the scrap around my house and old nasty dried up soil too....sticks, leaves, grass, kitchen waste.

I have hard clay soil around here, so it is tough to work....once you start adding Organic matter though, these raised beds kick ass

@Abiqua hey man I would post some pics but I don't have a camera lol or a smart phone but I may be able to borrow someones or something. one of my plants is just skyrocketing root growth is massive and the plant has triple in size in like 4 days. just by adding some compost tea that I made

@italianstallion24

love me some compost tea....I like to use it in the winter, when I don't have fresh botanicals aka [nettle]

Would love to hear your recipe.....I have few different ones, that I try
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My 2011 has started to frost up maybe 3 weeks in??...... Leds always seem to bring out the sugariest? of plants. Love em.
2013 is in the back [seed from a hermie]....no bananas yet, hasn't swelled yet, tied down in flower.

Also working on a building a new LED light. Funds have to build, but I worked out a blueprint I guess....

Mainly for my bigger cab which has a 19x27" footprint, giving me 3.5sq. ft. . Only 32" high too. Led is only way to go for this....without major work.




1st Principle is no soldering: everything is plug and play cable with Wago 222 connectors and Ezmates for the Bridglelux Vero13 led's.
There are also no soldering mounting clips for the Cree, but they need a small hole and tap cut for the mounting screws [5 minute job]

2nd is cheap, but not cheapest.
110w's @ $165

Parts list

• Cree Cxa 3070 Z2 3000k [will run about 54watts]
  
• [2x] Vero 2700k [30 watts]
  
• [2x] Vero 4000k [30 watts]
• Meanwell Apc 70V-500mA Driver
  
• Meanwell LPC 60-1400 Driver
  
• Cool Arctic +11 CPU Cooler
  
• 9" aluminum heatsinks with rifle bearing 80m fans.
  
• Wago connectors 222. Connect drivers to the LED's, and power cords to LED's with minimal effort.

Safety stuff

• Fuse
  
• Inline GFCI
  
• Inline EMI plug [maybe if I can afford it]

for my tea I just use compost from my fathers organic compost pile and some MycoGrow soluble 1 oz from Fungi.com it seems to be working really good my roots go from brow to white within a day and the growth from them are intense

Abiqua said:

Also working on a building a new LED light. Funds have to build, but I worked out a blueprint I guess....

Mainly for my bigger cab which has a 19x27" footprint, giving me 3.5sq. ft. . Only 32" high too. Led is only way to go for this....without major work.

View attachment 3248854


1st Principle is no soldering: everything is plug and play cable with Wago 222 connectors and Ezmates for the Bridglelux Vero13 led's.
There are also no soldering mounting clips for the Cree, but they need a small hole and tap cut for the mounting screws [5 minute job]

2nd is cheap, but not cheapest.
110w's @ $165

Parts list

• Cree Cxa 3070 Z2 3000k [will run about 54watts]
  
• [2x] Vero 2700k [30 watts]
  
• [2x] Vero 4000k [30 watts]
• Meanwell Apc 70V-500mA Driver
  
• Meanwell LPC 60-1400 Driver
  
• Cool Arctic +11 CPU Cooler
  
• 9" aluminum heatsinks with rifle bearing 80m fans.
  
• Wago connectors 222. Connect drivers to the LED's, and power cords to LED's with minimal effort.

Safety stuff

• Fuse
  
• Inline GFCI
  
• Inline EMI plug [maybe if I can afford it]

Click to expand...

Very interested too see this im looking into led atm but only have roughly 27 inches in height, how close can I grow too the led lights?

Sent from my HTC One SV using Rollitup mobile app

@Hanky92 with the CXA, I have seen Supra hang them @ 8" but running soft @ 700mA. The vero's should be able to get within 6".

I am going to run the CXA @1.4 amps [double the 700ma] however, so my main concern is maximizing spread without losing efficiency. I think I can run the Cree at less than a foot. Any number more specific is a test I haven't gotten to do yet