All Natural Organics. The Dons' Summaries + FAQ Thread. <2017-'18>

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
iv vot a question about mycos and mycrobes and coco im doing some white widows from seedsman in coco and im curios would it be a watse to use mycos is it possable or is it just over a cewtain ppm or ec the p or somthing will inhibit growth or kill them im finding coco very easy atm tho planning on switchi g to a no till method when i learn alot more and mainly doing in coco just to get a quick harvest for some meds in will be doing a side by side for shits n giggles also with the seeds i get from jah earth collective mainly for taste and the diff in how it smokes difrent and what not
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
How do I save a dying seedling? It was never put into the soil correctly, the root is shooting up and out. Is it safe to dig it up and re-root it or am I wasting my time trying?
When I used to germinate in flats with a half inch of soil it would happen sometimes. I liked that way because I would never lose heirlooms or older more callused seeds, and the fresher seeds could grow 2 inches in 2 days, and be up potted by digging them out.. although I did notice my female ratio dropped from 90% to 50%, however, I also stopped 'programming the water' at the same time.

Point is that the seeds would sometimes pop up and then back down, cause of the sheer shallowness.. and I have had success with piling soil on exposed roots, and with uprooting altogether and literally flipping a seedling, so I wouldn't give up!!
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
When I used to germinate in flats with a half inch of soil it would happen sometimes. I liked that way because I would never lose heirlooms or older more callused seeds, and the fresher seeds could grow 2 inches in 2 days, and be up potted by digging them out.. although I did notice my female ratio dropped from 90% to 50%, however, I also stopped 'programming the water' at the same time.

Point is that the seeds would sometimes pop up and then back down, cause of the sheer shallowness.. and I have had success with piling soil on exposed roots, and with uprooting altogether and literally flipping a seedling, so I wouldn't give up!!
Got em all situated they're doing good now, they were on the brink of death, our heat went out for 3 days it got down in the negatives and almost killed my seedlings. They had the roughest start ever hahaha I'm so surprised they're all still kicking. All my house plants died.

I was able to dig it up without hurting it and buried it sideways now it's nice and green and healthy. I had to cover my little ones with plastic cups to keep as much heat and humidity trapped in there as I could. I'm only using a 60w LED on them and my soil was bone dry
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
im curios would it be a watse to use mycos
I would use them for sure! I think it (P) actually hinders the myco beneficial symbiotic infection from taking place in the first place altogether, more than anything, so it would be best to get a myco herd established early, before the P is needed in larger amounts.. Then they can wether the storm later as a group and actually help solbize the P you're feeding..

I would also use frass and labs too, early and often, so the constant boost of microorganisms and fungi can help all along the journey as often as possible .. both foliar and dry fed or wet fed, cant hurt and should help a lot!


Insect Frass Facts.png
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
I would use them for sure! I think it (P) actually hinders the myco beneficial symbiotic infection from taking place in the first place altogether, more than anything, so it would be best to get a myco herd established early, before the P is needed in larger amounts.. Then they can wether the storm later as a group and actually help solbize the P you're feeding..

I would also use frass and labs too, early and often, so the constant boost of microorganisms and fungi can help all along the journey as often as possible .. both foliar and dry fed or wet fed, cant hurt and should help a lot!


View attachment 4073841
Make your own BSF frass?
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info. I'll get back to you with my results. I started light on the milk/water mix and figured I would make it stronger as needed. Plants are looking good otherwise. Lights come on later today so I'll see how they responded soon.
Pleasure, Joe. Thanks for getting back to us with your findings.. in advance.

I was just talking to one of the lone soil dudes at the Lift Expo and he said he's never seen results like this in organics since switching to frass.. in all his 14 years.. especially in the terpene department.

Hopefully your PM goes away for good once the regime is tweaked a tad!!
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Make your own BSF frass?
I was going to, due to high price and difficulty finding good stuff in Canada.. my old fav brand better world is ghost now it seems.. but then in doing some research and asking some of the organic biz owners in the industry, we have gotten a few good sources back on the go. Plus in doing the research I realized its far from glorious work lol

But its one of my fav ingredients by far, and I will continue to rep it and use it..
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
I was going to, due to high price and difficulty finding good stuff in Canada.. my old fav brand better world is ghost now it seems.. but then in doing some research and asking some of the organic biz owners in the industry, we have gotten a few good sources back on the go. Plus in doing the research I realized its far from glorious work lol

But its one of my fav ingredients by far, and I will continue to rep it and use it..
https://www.kisorganics.com/products/natural-insect-fertilizer-frass?variant=22563756289
Maybe they would work for you?
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Got em all situated they're doing good now, they were on the brink of death, our heat went out..
Just glad to hear you and the canna babies are ok now!

Looks like I'll have to call them tomorrow. In the mean time I found this
https://www.planetnatural.com/product/organic-biochar/
Did you ever get a chance to see what shipping was from BiocharNow, cause I see they are 4x cheaper then Planet Natural.. about $9 per cf vs $35

Sorry if you feel I've wasted your time, I have learned a lot though! Also what is an alternative to soft rock phosphate? I've heard nasty things about it.
Then its been worth it cause organics is spreading like wild fire!

What have you heard about SRP by the way, lets talk about rock phosphate quick.. you may be referring to rock phosphate (not SOFT rock phosphate) @firstnamelast
 
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DonTesla

Well-Known Member
what is your bedding made of? did you pre wet the bedding before mixing it all together? most do not feed citrus because it's a natural anti microbial. banana peels are great! generally, things that have higher amounts of natural sugars like banana, apple, carrot, sweet potato, etc are broken down quickly by sugar feeding microbes in the bin and create the "slurp" that the worms love to feed on. also, did you provide them some grit? a quart of sandy loam soil will work, rock dusts, oyster shell flour, etc, which will aid their digestion.

my worm bin recipe

1 part leaves, 1 part peat moss (both pre soaked/hydrated)
1/2 part pumice
1/2 cup oyster shell flour per cubic foot to help with maintaining steady pH
1 cup rock dust per cubic foot

mix all ingredients thoroughly.

i fill about 8-10" of bedding into my tote. then i'll put down a light layer of outdoor compost and a quart of sandy soil (the worms love compost), then i'll add any scraps i have (preferably ones starting to break down already or will be quickly broken down like pulp from my juicer). I also sprinkle some cannabis leaf meal, kelp meal, greensand, OSF, and coffee grounds (couple TBSP of each) on top of the food scraps. then i take the remaining couple inches of bedding and lay that on top, put the worms on top of that, and shine a light on it for an hour or so to make them dive down into the bedding.

hope that helps.
Thanks for filling in while we at Lift, Shluby! some really good points made here for sure.. its true.. don't forget the grit, to make a simple HQ bedding recipe, don't forget to moisten, and agreed, the citrus is no good but most things are, coffee and fruit included, although I'm working on several feed regimes at the mo, so more on that to come!
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Thanks for filling in while we at Lift, Shluby! some really good points made here for sure.. its true.. don't forget the grit, to make a simple HQ bedding recipe, don't forget to moisten, and agreed, the citrus is no good but most things are, coffee and fruit included, although I'm working on several feed regimes at the mo, so more on that to come!
just glad i can make the cut DT ;) i got your back!
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I would use them for sure! I think it (P) actually hinders the myco beneficial symbiotic infection from taking place in the first place altogether, more than anything, so it would be best to get a myco herd established early, before the P is needed in larger amounts.. Then they can wether the storm later as a group and actually help solbize the P you're feeding..

I would also use frass and labs too, early and often, so the constant boost of microorganisms and fungi can help all along the journey as often as possible .. both foliar and dry fed or wet fed, cant hurt and should help a lot!


View attachment 4073841
what would your tea recipe be for insect frass? say for a root drench....
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
Did you ever get a chance to see what shipping was from BiocharNow, cause I see they are 4x cheaper then Planet Natural.. about $9 per cf vs $35 @firstnamelast
I did not I totally forgot lol I'll have to do it tomorrow

What have you heard about SRP by the way, lets talk about rock phosphate quick.. you may be referring to rock phosphate (not SOFT rock phosphate) @firstnamelast
Do all rock phosphates have heavy metals in them? That's what I've heard, even soft
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
what would your tea recipe be for insect frass? say for a root drench....
I like dry apps as they seem to last longer, and work for up to 5 subsequent waterings, each time water is added they will pray hard..

.. but for teas?

I would prob add 1/4 to 1/2 cup per 5 gallon brew at the 2 hour-remaining mark, or longer if trying to establish fungal dominance (the later in flowering, the more one can add it sooner if they like)

Do note that in liquid suspension situations, the frass can settle and float in concentrated ways, so best to stir before adding to each plant for a more even distribution, another reason I measure individually for each plant usually!! Although I do like to add it to RO water too and mix a jar up for each plant, separately.. one tsp to 1 TBSP per litre depending on plant size (one gallon vs 25 gallon) is usually what I do, whether using water as an aid or not :)
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
I did not I totally forgot lol I'll have to do it tomorrow


Do all rock phosphates have heavy metals in them? That's what I've heard, even soft
Awesome, looking forward to your findings..

Micronized Soft Rock Phosphate is a non-metallic element that originates from the fossilized remains of ancient organic life found around the world.

It is not a colloidal nor a hard rock but rather a unique Reactive Rock source of natural phosphate with NOP certification for organic use. Lab tests show an average content of 23% P2O5. Compared to other phosphate sources test show it to contain the least amount of heavy metal contaminants
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I like dry apps as they seem to last longer, and work for up to 5 subsequent waterings, each time water is added they will pray hard..

.. but for teas?

I would prob add 1/4 to 1/2 cup per 5 gallon brew at the 2 hour-remaining mark, or longer if trying to establish fungal dominance (the later in flowering, the more one can add it sooner if they like)

Do note that in liquid suspension situations, the frass can settle and float in concentrated ways, so best to stir before adding to each plant for a more even distribution, another reason I measure individually for each plant usually!! Although I do like to add it to RO water too and mix a jar up for each plant, separately.. one tsp to 1 TBSP per litre depending on plant size (one gallon vs 25 gallon) is usually what I do, whether using water as an aid or not :)
i will just topdress then. i typically topdress a "bloom" and compost blend about 1-2 weeks into flower. maybe i could do that, and then a couple weeks later topdress the frass to finish them out. what do you think?
 

firstnamelast

Well-Known Member
Ok heres my new shopping list, hope I have everything right, I went back and now I'm only using ingredients from your recipes Don

initial / smaller quantity

pumice
biochar
? rice hulls / buckwheat hulls
diatomaceous earth / fossil shell flour
coir / coco
peat
worm castings
coconut (young thai, or canned - one ingredient)
epsom salt (mg s4 i.e. vitamin & mineral enhancing foliar)
aloe vera plant (have a young one but not usable)

continuous / larger quantity
bsfly frass
kelp meal
neem meal
? crab shell meal / crustacean meal
? fish bone meal
langbeinite / k mag
basalt
gypsum
glacial rock dust

If anything is redundant let me know! I'm gonna buy all 50 lb bags for the large quantity
 
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ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
Ok heres my new shopping list, hope I have everything right, I went back and now I'm only using ingredients from your recipes Don

initial / smaller quantity

pumice
biochar
? rice hulls / buckwheat hulls
diatomaceous earth / fossil shell flour
coir / coco
peat
worm castings
coconut (young thai, or canned - one ingredient)
epsom salt (mg s4 i.e. vitamin & mineral enhancing foliar)
aloe vera plant (have a young one but not usable)

continuous / larger quantity
bsfly frass
kelp meal
neem meal
? crab shell meal / crustacean meal
? fish bone meal
langbeinite / k mag
basalt
gypsum
glacial rock dust

If anything is redundant let me know! I'm gonna buy all 50 lb bags for the large quantity
you're missing oyster shell flower for your liming agent :) . necessary for a peat based mix! DT, are you not using OSF?
 
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