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Alcohol Extraction question

Discussion in 'Cooking With Cannabis' started by BROKENSPROKET, Aug 9, 2009.

  1.  
    BROKENSPROKET

    BROKENSPROKET Member

    I have a 2.5 gal. pressure cooker, which some call a stovetop autoclave, converted into a still. The condensor is a seperate unit, no column.

    Below is a process for alcohol extraction that I am planning to try it this fall. I have only used the still to extract the wine out of the mash at the bottom of a batch.

    My question is with step 10.

    If I distill the alcohol off to reclaim it, instead of evaporating it off like most recipes call for, will the alcohol vapor carry over the cannabis resin, or will be be trapped in the still?

    I would not think so, because the various cannabinoid compounds in cannabis do not boil until 260-392° F. It may however carry over chlorophyll and terpenes.

    1. Harvest
    2. Dry for 48 hours (forced dry heat)
    3. Grind up into still
    4. Add 98% ethanol
    5. Heat with valve closed in pressure cooker mode
    a. To expedite extraction
    6. Let cool partially to warm
    7. Strain out plant material
    8. Restrain with secondary filter back into still
    9. Add water
    10. Distill off all the alcohol
    a. Purpose is to reclaim the ethanol to be used again
    11. Cool in fridge, resin will settle to bottom and thicken/harden
    12. Pour off water
    a. Purpose is to remove all the water soluble chlorophyll and terpenes.
    13. Add food/pharm glycerin
    14. Test for titration
    15. Repeat steps 16 & 17 as desired
    16. Transfer to atomizer and/or eyedropper
  2.  
    v12xjs

    v12xjs Well-Known Member

    After drying you need to wash the bud first to remove the tars, waxes, chlorophyll & stuff.
    Simmer the grindings for 20 minutes. THC doesn't dissolve in water & seems to stay in the plant material. Some crystals will float on the top but you can scoop them up. This makes a huge difference to the final product.
    I'll try & remember the kit you need and the steps to reclaim everything.
  3.  
    BROKENSPROKET

    BROKENSPROKET Member

    Thanks for the reply, but you did not even come close to answering my question. I get the impression that you did not really read, maybe just scimmed over my post.

    After drying you need to wash the bud first to remove the tars, waxes, chlorophyll & stuff.

    Sorry, but never in my life have I heard of washing bud before you use it. What do you mean by wash?

    Simmer the grindings for 20 minutes. THC doesn't dissolve in water & seems to stay in the plant material.

    I know that the cannabinoids are not water soluble. I extract them using 98% alcohol. I only add water after the cannabinoids have been extracted ant the plant material is filtered out. The water is to seperate the cannabinoid resin from the alcohol so that I can distill the alcohol off.

    Some crystals will float on the top but you can scoop them up. This makes a huge difference to the final product.
    I'll try & remember the kit you need and the steps to reclaim everything.

    I have already extracted the cannabinoid compounds using 98% alcohol and filtered out the plant material. This is where I add just as much water as I had alcohol to seperate the cannabinoid compounds from the alcohol so that I can distill off the alcohol.

    My question is very specific. When I distill off the alcohol at 173F, is there any chance that the cannabiniod compound resin can come over with the alcohol?
  4.  
    v12xjs

    v12xjs Well-Known Member

    Sorry. Just trying to help. Looked like you were planning on extracting all the shit too.
  5.  
    v12xjs

    v12xjs Well-Known Member

    Maybe I didn't understand what you were trying to do.
    This is a very efficient method if you just wish to extract pure oil:

    A tall metal pot with a concave lid and something like a tyre inner tube to seal the inverted lid to the pot.
    Alcohol goes in the bottom.
    A sieve filled with herb sits at the top below the lid. Everything is sealed and heated so the alcohol begins to evaporate.
    Now fill the inverted lid with ice.
    The alcohol evaporates & rises. Condenses on the lid and rolls to the middle before falling off into the sieve.
    Soon it will drip from the sieve having extracted what it can & fall to the bottom as a suspension of oil in alcohol.
    At the bottom the alcohol will boil once again but leave behind the oil which boils at a higher temp. This ensures that there is a continuous supply of clean alcohol dripping into the herb.
    Once everything is extracted, remove the sieve and replace with a collection plate for the alcohol.
    Start her up again until the alcohol has evaporated leaving just the oil at the bottom.
    You will need a lot of ice.
  6.  
    Woomeister

    Woomeister Well-Known Member

    You wont get many more answers with a response to someone trying to help like that.:shock:
  7.  
    BROKENSPROKET

    BROKENSPROKET Member

    Sorry, I think what you are trying to explain to me is something that is well beyond my knowledge. I will do some research to figure out what you mean. Again, my apologies.
  8.  
    BROKENSPROKET

    BROKENSPROKET Member

    What do you mean by 'extracting all the shit too"?

    I know with alcohol extraction, I will get the cannabinioid compound, chlorophyll, terpenes, and other stuff. I do not have the time or patience to water cure for any legnth of time. The chlorophyll and perpenes will stay in the water after the alcohol is distilled off becuase they are water soluble
  9.  
    v12xjs

    v12xjs Well-Known Member

    No need to cure.
    Everything that is water soluble can be removed in an hour before you start just by simmering it. I'd be surprised if it can be so easily removed from the oil afterwards.

    Just read your edit. No. The evaporated alcohol will not contain oil.
  10.  
    .Calico

    .Calico Active Member

    I've been distilling for 2 few years now so I'll give it a shot.
    First off, all the cannaboloids and THC will dissolve into the ethanol and make it through the still. Secondly, you should never run a still under pressure, ie close the valve. Thirdly, 50% or 100proof will work just fine and that way you won't have to add H2O to the still. The chlorophyl shouldn't make it past the condenser. The liquid may have a slight yellow thou but it shouldn't be green.
    You don't have to "pre-cook" your wash (weed/ethanol mixture). Heating up the still will dissolve the cannaboloids just fine. Before hand, a teaspoon of baking soda added to your wash just before distilling will get you a cleaner, more neutral flavor. Bottle what is left in the still for your next batch. If you want to redistill your MJ Gin, which is what it is, add 50% more H2O and another teaspoon of baking soda. I think that's it. If yo have anymore questions, feel free to pm me.
  11.  
    .Calico

    .Calico Active Member

    Also, depending on your still, you shouldn't have to strain out the plant matter. Keep the still at a gentle simmer. The more gentle you boil it, the more pure your end product will be. Also, starting with store-bought liquor, you should only have to do one run with your still,

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