Advanced Nutrient Claims"Are they true?"

plaguedog

Active Member
I'm not a fan of over priced nutrient lines and lining their pockets but one thing AN agrees with you on UB is the phosphorus myth. (Still they sell products to the masses with out of wach NPK ratios, lacking micros, because that is what some of these people have come to expect)

They did tissue analysis a while back and this is what they learned.

http://www.growersunderground.com/PhosphorusMyth.pdf

Nutrients high in phosphorus are simply not needed. It IS a MYTH. Like you always have been advocating UB, NPK around 3-1-2 usually gives the best results.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
I'm not a fan of over priced nutrient lines and lining their pockets but one thing AN agrees with you on UB is the phosphorus myth. (Still they sell products to the masses with out of wach NPK ratios, lacking micros, because that is what some of these people have come to expect)

They did tissue analysis a while back and this is what they learned.

http://www.growersunderground.com/PhosphorusMyth.pdf

Nutrients high in phosphorus are simply not needed. It IS a MYTH. Like you always have been advocating UB, NPK around 3-1-2 usually gives the best results.
Those are some interesting tests. Am proud of AN, can't believe they finally came around. Now, if they'd just stop selling shit to what they think folks want LOL. Yes, 3-1-2 is the generic standard and can or should be used from start to finish.
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
I'm not a fan of over priced nutrient lines and lining their pockets but one thing AN agrees with you on UB is the phosphorus myth. (Still they sell products to the masses with out of wach NPK ratios, lacking micros, because that is what some of these people have come to expect)

They did tissue analysis a while back and this is what they learned.

http://www.growersunderground.com/PhosphorusMyth.pdf

Nutrients high in phosphorus are simply not needed. It IS a MYTH. Like you always have been advocating UB, NPK around 3-1-2 usually gives the best results.
i use the cheap food lol, the ratio rounded off its like 10-10-20 for the flowering food
and veg would be 10-5-15 , either one works i tend to just use the flowering version for all stages
it keeps them nice n green
all these companies play around with the npk ratios each claiming their version is best
some cut the N very low with their flowering versions
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
+rep for this.

The periodic table has everything you need.

I once read on another forum somebody saying weed uses more than 30 elements. Such bullshit! That's like the whole first 4 periods! Weed uses closer to 16 elements than 30, unless maybe it likes lithium, aluminum, arsenic, and gallium, and fluoride. Maybe the remaining elements are fire, water, wind, and heart...


 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Those tests show the values of P, not P2O5. For some reason, nutrient mixes list P2O5 as an percentage while analysis shows concentration of P. Taking these values from their veg data:

N - 33000
P - 5000
K - 26000

if converted to N, P2O5, and K2O using the chart listed below, you'd have:

N - 33000
P2O5 - 11450
K2O - 31322


http://www.agroservicesinternational.com/Education/Fert6.html

P P2O5 2.2915
P2O5 P 0.4364

K K2O 1.2047
K2O K 0.8301

I'm not a fan of over priced nutrient lines and lining their pockets but one thing AN agrees with you on UB is the phosphorus myth. (Still they sell products to the masses with out of wach NPK ratios, lacking micros, because that is what some of these people have come to expect)

They did tissue analysis a while back and this is what they learned.

http://www.growersunderground.com/PhosphorusMyth.pdf

Nutrients high in phosphorus are simply not needed. It IS a MYTH. Like you always have been advocating UB, NPK around 3-1-2 usually gives the best results.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
In flowering:

N - 39000
P - 8000
K - 41000

Which in N - P2O5 - K2O is:

N - 39000
P2O5 - 18332
K2O - 49392

N:P2O5:K2O ratio = 3.9 : 1.83 : 4.94
 
Hi. Just wondering Do you think it's ok to use full strength overdrive (2ml/L) after a soil flush. 3 weeks remaining (10/11 week strain). No other notes added
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Hi. Just wondering Do you think it's ok to use full strength overdrive (2ml/L) after a soil flush. 3 weeks remaining (10/11 week strain). No other notes added
Curious, why would you want to use that? Because of the hype or do you have some science?
 

althor

Well-Known Member
Fact: Higher nitrogen levels at the end of flowering results in lower THC levels.
FACT.

If you are growing hemp, go with veg nutrients all the way to the end. If you are growing cannabis, drop those nitrogen levels near the end.

Jack of all trades, master of none.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Fact: Higher nitrogen levels at the end of flowering results in lower THC levels.
FACT.
For hemp, that's true and exactly what the EU growers want in order to comply with the law. We've had this discussion before, do a search.

If you are growing hemp, go with veg nutrients all the way to the end. If you are growing cannabis, drop those nitrogen levels near the end.

Jack of all trades, master of none.
If you drop the N such that there is a deficiency that leads to premature leaf loss, ya done fucked up.

FACT
 

Dboi87

Well-Known Member
I love how confident all the UncleBen haters sound when they think they got one on you. Funniest part is it's never anything new... same old arguments that UB has stomped out time and time again.

"Hey UB, any real grower knows the buds need direct light. You need to get rid of your leaves blocking light. And make sure you wash the built up nutes out of the plant. The buds store them. FACT. Really really good at all plants, expert of none...."
 

beuffer420

Well-Known Member
Ub has a good all round knowledge of plants which I feel is important to be a good grower. The more you can understand about how plants work, the better grower I feel you can become.
 

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
Fact: Higher nitrogen levels at the end of flowering results in lower THC levels.
FACT.

If you are growing hemp, go with veg nutrients all the way to the end. If you are growing cannabis, drop those nitrogen levels near the end.

Jack of all trades, master of none.
if you make a claim, you need a citation. You are talking shit.

if I didn't continue to feed nitrogen to my Blueberry Hill during these last few weeks of flower, she wouldn't have lived long enough to harvest.

People like you do nothing productive to the community when you spread misinformation and nonsense.
 

lilroach

Well-Known Member
Several grows ago I brain-farted and went with high P and no N the last few weeks before harvest. All of a sudden my plants had no smell at all...it was like I was sniffing a rock. I re-introduced N and all of a sudden that beautiful sweet bud-smell returned.

I now feed daily a NPK of 2-3-1 and I get no nute-burn or deficiencies all the way till the end (please refer to any of my linked grow journals in my signature).
 

althor

Well-Known Member
if you make a claim, you need a citation. You are talking shit.

if I didn't continue to feed nitrogen to my Blueberry Hill during these last few weeks of flower, she wouldn't have lived long enough to harvest.

People like you do nothing productive to the community when you spread misinformation and nonsense.

Google is your friend. Even Uncle Ben said it was true.

But you go ahead and come up with something silly like "citation"...

Keep on growing your hemp.
 

TonightYou

Well-Known Member
Reading comprehension skills seem to be something you haven't mastered. UB said it himself that plants need N in flower and that many growers have ugly ass plants with dead leaves and fucked up bud because they fail to use enough N in flower

yea, lets rely on Google for answers, seeing as it would point to stupid shit like this claiming nonsense on cannabis boards by dumbasses arguing. Certainly an excellent source for entertainment, not for science.

Yea, citations really are "silly" . Its not like having data or using the scientific method makes sense or contributes to the wealth of knowledge built upon by others. Then again, it shouldn't surprise me as your reading comprehension skills are so shitty. Oh that and relying on google for research, fucking brilliant!
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
Several grows ago I brain-farted and went with high P and no N the last few weeks before harvest. All of a sudden my plants had no smell at all...it was like I was sniffing a rock. I re-introduced N and all of a sudden that beautiful sweet bud-smell returned.
This is currently my main "bloom" additive: http://www.house-garden.us/products/additives/bud-xl/ which is 4-0-1, iow largely N.

"Will Bud XL help my plants if it’s used alone?
Bud XL will increase flower size. If used alone, Bud XL will only be able to utilize the nutrients within the medium. If used with a high PK late bloom additive, Bud XL will have optimal results."

Basically it fixes the messed up ratio after using PK13/14.

I now feed daily a NPK of 2-3-1 and I get no nute-burn or deficiencies all the way till the end
I'd rather go with something like 2-1-3 during late flowering, there's no point in a plant's cycle where it requires more P than N or K, not even close.

The irony is that N is important for the uptake of P and not supplying the medium with enough N can result in P deficiencies. Heck, it's the source of the P myth itself:
http://puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Phosphate.pdf

The reason leaves look green to us are a direct result of the plant doing it's thing, creating buds that is. N is an essential element of chlorophyll = photosynthesis = photosynthate/sugars => buds. See my frost album for what happens when you keep feeding N and keep'm green till the end.

I know some growers who choose to stop feeding N early in flowering because they aim for a yellow harvest as it basically reduces the required amount of time to cure the chlorophyll (grass) out, which in turn allows them to sell it sooner (and not risk getting raided by the cops). The real problem there is not green leaves by drying and curing too fast. If you are going for the most potent quality and quantity, simply keep the plants healthy, as in green.
 

Indoor Sun King

Well-Known Member
eyeball696 started this post Sept 6/2013, then a few more post promoting AN, then has not logged in since Sept 11.... since then we have had 298 posts (soon to be 299) to which we have heard all sorts of feedback to the OP questions concerning AN hiring scientists to formulate a product for cannabis.

My wild ass guess....eyeball has a financial investment in AN........now watch eyeball696 suddenly resurface with retaliations and rebuttals.
 

BROBIE

Well-Known Member
This forum draws maybe 400 people at a time. Barely enough to be worth taking the time to sell Girl Scout cookies . (mmmmm.........cooookies....)

My wild guess is he has a life.
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Ub has a good all round knowledge of plants which I feel is important to be a good grower. The more you can understand about how plants work, the better grower I feel you can become.
And the more and varied plant species you grow over the years the better cannabis gardener you are. I had been gardening for many years before trying pot and I did not fail. In fact, had a huge yield and that was in a very simply designed closet using nothing more than white side panels as reflectors that were sandwiched between the front and back closet walls. Two large plants, one adjustable 250W HPS hanging from dog chains attached to the clothes pipe. Easy peasy... None of this aeroponic, DWC, SCROG, LST, or coco shit using snake oil nutes and gimmicks. Just a pot of soil, light, window fan on the floor outside the door, and a box of Walmart plant food. Avatar is a fine example.

Happy gardening!
 
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