A perfect cure every time

T

TrichGnome

Member
Drying in this fashion would be detrimental to the texture, smell, and apearence of the final bud. Now I know why half the weed in colorado looks and smells the same.
 
T

TrichGnome

Member
Well, to start trimming befor the dry, relying on an out dated piece of equipment when your new to the game, plus everyone's humidity levels are different in thier drying rooms. That method may not work so well say in the desert, you could end up with hay over night with no humidifier. Air circulation type is very important. But I think using the leaves and trim as a guage on how fast your plants are drying is most important.
 
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T

TrichGnome

Member
I got this bad ass moby dick indica leaning pheno I picked out the pack. She stays short and compact in veg with even blade to leaf ratio. Though its just as vigerous as a sativa with leaf formation minus the stretch. Then in flower she decides to rock out with a blue dream style stretch and buds sets hard and fast like a indica until 75 days flushed when she's got purple hues all on her (they havnt stayed past the cure yet, just look a lil darker) . Only did one run with her so far but but I'm excited to get these girl scout cookies, hash plant, and pre 98 bubba in jars so I can dedicate more time and research to something fun.
 
Kind Sir

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
Even if you only have 1 hygrometer, would thr jars be same rh if ssme strain\weight is in jar? Even if thats not the case, couldnt you use one hygrometer to test them all. Only a handful of jars with few oz wouldnt be an issue?
 
Kind Sir

Kind Sir

Well-Known Member
Definitely man I was thi king that,
I can obviously check each jar with one meter, one came out at 58%
 
mouse1818

mouse1818

Well-Known Member
obijohn said:
Ive done this for several years this way. I air out the jars so they aren't moist long term, and it smooths out the smoke. But after several months the buds all turn brown. And, I don't have that sweet skunky smell, usually little smell at all. The potency is good, but why can't I keep the nice aroma and greenish color?
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I guess its like an apple you cut it open and the flesh is exposed to air and turns brown.
 
Tree's Inc.

Tree's Inc.

Active Member
SimonD said:


This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon
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Is it better to dry as a whole plant upside down or to groom the nugs in a dehygerating net. And is it better to cut water leaves off at harvest or keep them on during the drying stage. I'm not looking for the easy way just the best. Thank you in advance
 
mellow j

mellow j

Well-Known Member
SimoD said:
Heh, it's as if folks would rater argue than grow lots of bud. When I started out, I identified a number of growers I wanted to learn from, shut my mouth and listened for a hell of a long time, while putting in the hours in my own garden. Here, the less experience you have, the louder you are. No thanks.

Simon
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Right on my brother. Im just listening away. Trying to avoid the hay. :-)
 
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