A perfect cure every time

nwbudds said:

I don't know if anyone has this or if it has been discussed but after i put my buds in my jars they dont smell like the great like they did before drying. It smells like alfalfa or something like that is there a reason why it does this. I am using TGA super soil any answers or some info would be great thanks.

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After you dry your bud.
Fill each jar 1/2 way, store in a cool dark spot.
I store them in my kitchen cabinet for easy access to burp jars.
Close for 4 days then open for 1 hour and close.
Repeat in 4 days, open for 1 hour.
By the 12th day I will empty all my jars let the bud sit out on a tray for an hour, then I re jar by weight 1 ounce per jar.
Burp once more in 7 days for 15 - 30 minutes.

Bud should have lost any hay, alfalfa , green smell.
The odor may seem weak, just grind a little bud and it should smell awesome.

orion22 said:

is it ok to store buds (after initial curing) at around 62% I'm asking because I acquired a humidity controlled cigar box but its range only goes between 62% and 75% would this work or would it cause bud rot?

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62% RH is perfect, anything over 70% RH can allow bud rot, mold, etc to grow.

Dogenzengi said:

62% RH is perfect, anything over 70% RH can allow bud rot, mold, etc to grow.

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thanks wasn't to sure but i figured its ok for cigars it be good for bud.

man i know exactly what your talking about. when i first jar buds they smelln dank but after two weeks of jar theyh smell like hay. what are we doing wrong?

nwbudds said:

I don't know if anyone has this or if it has been discussed but after i put my buds in my jars they dont smell like the great like they did before drying. It smells like alfalfa or something like that is there a reason why it does this. I am using TGA super soil any answers or some info would be great thanks.

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seattlegrownewb said:

man i know exactly what your talking about. when i first jar buds they smelln dank but after two weeks of jar theyh smell like hay. what are we doing wrong?

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try using a hygrometer to gage the RH in the jar you want to aim for around mid 50's to low 60's, I've found that the hay smell generally comes from bud that was dried to much or to fast.

This method truly will produce a perfect cure every time, great title. Go back to the instructions and follow them. No need to read further on my post, unless you want to.

If you have had problems, then ask if you have "stayed on top of it." If you are also working a full time job, then unless you took it to work with you until it was ready for the cure, then it could have spent too much time too wet in the jar and not enough time laying out in-between its sealed up times.

I first read the thread while everyone was still in veg. Now I'm about 5 harvests in (taking down a couple every 2-3 weeks) and have used it step by step each time and by the numbers each time. Each strain does end up throwing its own distinct scent, even if it takes a while to get the earthy smell out. This is not my first rodeo, but it is much larger than the last time and my first time using the numbers. The numbers do correspond to the pinch and feel testing I am used to. Thank you for the info!

I bought analog hygrometers from a cigar/smoke shop and drilled out holes in the tops of lids, as you can see in the picture. The jar had been open for an extended burp, that's why the reading is in the 40s. That jar is at about 57% once it stabilizes....now if I could just stop myself from smoking out of it....don't fool yourself, smokeable or not is not the only test here. Yep, that's an old sock around the jar. The hygrometers came with seals on them, but I would have used some o-rings or something if I didn't think it was a tight enough seal. Once we are talking long term storage, I use just a regular lid. The hygrometers were 9.95, but I could have gotten them for less on Ebay. I calibrated them using an indoor digital unit that is reliable to the best of my knowledge. For the first harvest I actually just tossed them inside the jars and had not yet sunk them into the lids. I only have two, but if I have a batch, I will use the lid on one jar and then randomly verify that all jars are at approximately the same value when they stabilize, even though they do not have hygrometers in them full time...how unscientific of me. I bought a case of quart jars and I buy cases all the time. I cannot let my girls go to someone who will keep it in plastic, so I give jars away all the time....how unprofitable of me, but that's not what it is about! If I were worried about investing 10, 20 or even $50 in jars, then I'd maybe use food service buckets? I could certainly get larger jars, but these fit in my transport safe, my coolers, my laptop bag. If I did not have the time to tend to multiple jars - then I wouldn't be trying to grow quality medicine, I would support the lifestyle of someone who did. Ya know, pay an expert, not work on my own car unless it was an early 90s hunk o junk, call a plumber, take the computer to best buy, get the house painted....you get it.

When I can, I let it go as long as possible and release that moisture as slowly as possible, it does make a difference. Sure, you can do it faster through various methods of fans and dehumidifiers and you'll get different results, but if you follow the instructions at the very beginning of the thread, you will be very happy. Truly and sadly, a lot of end users won't be able to tell the difference that the extra couple of weeks makes (you can always just crack the bud open and get some of that smell, but don't you want to crack the jar and have the smell permeate the room? No seriously, I call it throwing up a flag and I frequently do it for fun. I reach into my pocket and unscrew the cap on the blueberry when I'm in the bar. I then look around to see who is smelling it. Inevitably the waitresses can be heard whispering, "did you smell that, who has it?") and people begin to circle: just from cracking a jar with a gram in it and not even taking it out of my pocket. Again, just follow the instructions, use the numbers, and invest in some sort of accurate hygrometer(s).

Hay.....oh haaaaaayyyyyy! I am not attempting to answer the hay smell issue except to say that leaf stems and the bases of those sugar leaves whose tips just get trimmed (especially in the case of auto trimmers and lack of intense hand manicuring that leaves ONLY bud) are not doing any favors for smell or flavor.

Gonna try this, I over-dried my last batch.

I recently tried Boveda Humidity Control Packs.65%RH. I hung it for 3 days and put it in a jar for 1 week and had very well tasting/effective bud...

No really it was banging

SimonD said:

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon

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If you can't trust Oprah, who can you trust?

interesting stuff here....ive been at this for lots of years....and no matter where you live geographically....if you don't hang your plants long enough before removing bud from a vine, itll be way difficult to get a legit cure. how long is long enough? ive lived in Colorado(dry)..Arizona(dryer)...and Michigan(at times...90 to 100% humidity). id never hang a plant or a half plant or a branch for less than 14 days ever. if you live in the desert, then water heavy before you cut and hang your plants whole...14 days at least. if you live in humidity..water as normal then cut and hang that girl for 21 days. its all a long and slow dry process to get the best cure. it takes time to dial this kind of thing in, but as long as your space and air flow are adequate no rot issue( ive never had one ever). when they are dried proper the buds do not ever get over dried brittle and go direct to jars till smoked. never burp...no need when dry correctly. taste and smells to the moon (unless your grow skill lacks, and this is the real reason most peeps have issues with taste and smell. lots of variables)

Nice information but 14 -21 days wow.but ill try it

without a doubt....longer is key.

Wont the buds be brittle

buds become brittle if they dry too quickly. the process must be slow in order to avoid this. that's one reason why chopping dry plants not ideal.

SimonD said:

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.

It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.


HTH,
Simon

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Hey simon... Sorry if you already covered this but I read most of the post and didn't see anyone talking about it.

I put bud into jars and waited about 12 hours with no change in humidity. It's been 50% in one jar and 52% in another... Guess I screwed up huh?

I personally think it smokes good. They were hanging and on the fraying rack about 14-17 days. How would you handle it at this point? Would you still burp it or just leave it for the long term?

Ok i think i understand now.im getting ready to chop my mom this week,i have been flushing her for 3 days now.she is looking good.ill post pixs to keep u inform and well be looking for guidance

Malacath said:

yeah i

guess you can leave

yeah you can put em in a box i guess i just like to use grocery bags cause how thin they are and i can just fluff by emptying out the nugg into another grocery bag that being the fluff..you can do that like 3 times a day for 2 days in a dark cool area.or for one day no worries. then i put the nug in 1 gallon jars with the lid on top unscrewd for 1 day. then i seal and burp em once or twice a day for like 5 days then i seal em tight for the long cure.

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Do u close brown bag after u burb them

NyQuilkush318 said:

Do u close brown bag after u burb them

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their in jars when you berp em so why would you ask about brown paper bags. i cant get any simpler than i have read carefully...done with this subject.

Malacath said:

their in jars when you berp em so why would you ask about brown paper bags. i cant get any simpler than i have read carefully...done with this subject.

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Bro am just trying to maake out of all this cure shit bro