60w Led Lights As Supplimenta Lighting

Moflow

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't give any more feed now.
Just water.
I'll check the MG ec for ya....if I've a box still in my shed. I use it in my oudoor garden.
I hate the MG crystals as it always damps up on me, ends up as mush lol. And it froths up on mixing.
I use liquid tomato food like Tomatorite
Can't I'm afraid, there's only a small pool of watery blue stuff in bottom of bag :|
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
Yepp, 10 days is enough!

The lack of smell and resin is probably strain dependent and has nothing to do with the light regime.

But the "leafy" flowers are probably caused by the 5000°k bulbs and I would try all 2700-3500°k next time, at least at the time you switch to 12/12h.
I have very little 5000° compared my 2700° - 3000°, would you recommend even less or none at all?...
IMG-2923.JPG

- 6 @ 11w (2700°)
- 2 @ 40w (2700°)
[148w red]

- 2 @ 16w (5000°)
[32w blue]
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I have very little 5000° compared my 2700° - 3000°, would you recommend even less or none at all?...
View attachment 4054089

- 6 @ 11w (2700°)
- 2 @ 40w (2700°)
[148w red]

- 2 @ 16w (5000°)
[32w blue]

No, not necessarily!
I thought you had more, but that's only 1/6 and should not have much of an impact. Must be the phenotyp ...
Nevertheless, you could try a few more coolwhites for vegging and all warmwhite for flower next time.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Under 3000k cree cob ive got really tight, squat growth.
It could be because the light is quite close....?
It looks like the plants went oh feck I need to grow out rather than up lol
5000k vegging I've not tried but I have used the GG boards with mixed 3500k + 5000k in vegging stage and flowering with great results. :D
View attachment 4054067
Yeah, 3000°K can also be used well if you use enough of it.
You need about 10-12w of pure blue light per square meter for plants to show compact growth. Since 3000°k contains about 10-12% blue, 100w are sufficient for the plants to grow compactly. 70-80w of 3000°K could already be too little, then you would see increased stretching. You could also use 10w blue and 90w red "mono's" and would still get compact growth.

The GGboards have actually ~4.250°k. 4k is a spectrum many growers prefere because it will produce massive growth and have enough red for a good yield. It also helped to control stretching!
I am not surprised that these boards work so well. I only wish the 3,5 and 5k diodes were mixed and not distributed to 2 sides.
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Yeah, 3000°K can also be used well if you use enough of it.
You need about 10-12w of pure blue light per square meter for plants to show compact growth. Since 3000°k contains about 10-12% blue, 100w are sufficient for the plants to grow compactly. 70-80w of 3000°K could already be too little, then you would see increased stretching. You could also use 10w blue and 90w red "mono's" and would still get compact growth.

The GGboards have actually ~4.250°k. 4k is a spectrum many growers prefere because it will produce massive growth and have enough red for a good yield. It also helped to control stretching!
I am not surprised that these boards work so well. I only wish the 3,5 and 5k diodes were mixed and not distributed to 2 sides.
Yes if the gg boards were blended it would be nice.
Maybe it's harder , more costly to do this.?
Swings and roundabouts I suppose as I believe they are probably designed to be used with 2 drivers to enable you to have more 5k ratio for vegging then ramping up the 3.5k in flowering mode.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yes, or their pick-and-place robot only has room for one roll of LEDs to take from..
I believe the Gerber files for the ggboards were made from VW. If they would have mixed rows of 3.5 and 5k it would be still possible to use 2 separate drivers, but therefor the Gerber file needs to be tweaked..
Maybe in gen.2..?
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Yes, or their pick-and-place robot only has room for one roll of LEDs to take from..
I believe the Gerber files for the ggboards were made from VW. If they would have mixed rows of 3.5 and 5k it would be still possible to use 2 separate drivers, but therefor the Gerber file needs to be tweaked..
Maybe in gen.2..?
I like to call them Mk1 boards Mk2 Etc lol
Mk1, solder your connection, Mk2 wago connectors, Mk3 3k + 5k, I think....
Anyhow, you make some good points re tweaking for future designs.
It's probably down to keeping costs at a respectable price.
Long live DIY I say :D
 

Dave455

Well-Known Member
Yeah, 3000°K can also be used well if you use enough of it.
You need about 10-12w of pure blue light per square meter for plants to show compact growth. Since 3000°k contains about 10-12% blue, 100w are sufficient for the plants to grow compactly. 70-80w of 3000°K could already be too little, then you would see increased stretching. You could also use 10w blue and 90w red "mono's" and would still get compact growth.

The GGboards have actually ~4.250°k. 4k is a spectrum many growers prefere because it will produce massive growth and have enough red for a good yield. It also helped to control stretching!
I am not surprised that these boards work so well. I only wish the 3,5 and 5k diodes were mixed and not distributed to 2 sides.
Assume mixing COBS provide similar results ?
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever bent their colas horizonal so more light reaches the growth in the middle of the cola's? One side would be starved for light, but the other side would be increased more than standing straight?

I bent about half of mine horizontal the day I was going to chop (day 51 of 12/12) and going to let them grow for a week or so longer, maybe
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
Ok got some pics...

Cucumeris bottom, spidermite top left? Broadmite top right?...
cucu vs mite.jpg

Spidermite?...
spidermite.jpg spidermite4.jpg

Broadmite?...
bmegg.jpg Broadmite.jpg broadmite3.jpg

Red speckled leaf underside...
red speckeled underside.jpg

White speckled leaf underside...
thrip underside.jpg

How bout trichs, how much longer?...
trichomes.jpgtrichomes3.jpg
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
BTW, I have often done horizontal bending, but you have to start much earlier to make it work.
Used the technique mainly among CFL's with high-stretching varieties like Nevil's-Haze!
But CFL days are gone, today the effective range is much larger.
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
If the mites have already reached the flowers, throw it away!
At least try to wash it off and check it with a magnifying glass!

It's not a cockroach, but do you really want to smoke bugs, Cheech?

Lol, na not in the buds, those came from a few leaves that I left (small, from a little lower stem) so I could check em out when my scope arrived.
.
What you think about the trichs?
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Lol, na not in the buds, those came from a few leaves that I left (small, from a little lower stem) so I could check em out when my scope arrived.
.
What you think about the trichs?
Not much longer! Most of them looks already cloudy.
It depends on what you personally prefer. Early harvest results more in an up-high, late into a couchlock.
Many would already whet their scissors ...
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any experience with a neem soil drench? I've read that neem is systemic, so wouldn't that take care of my soil gnats (soil drench) and then any sucking mites (broadmite, spidermite, thrip, aphid) after the roots soak it up and send up into the plant?

What about applying neem oil to the stems with the attempt to get it to soak in and transfer up the plant into infested regions?

I bought some and have been drenching soil on my new veging plants with no noticeable adverse effects yet (3x drench in 10 days) and was going to hit them with eagle 20 or forbid right before the switch to 12/12, while at the same time cutting the chemical fertilizer and neem drench, and replacing with molasses and no neem? I have cats and sometimes they get out and I think I'll always have to deal with pests due to my lifestyle and abreakdown of quarantine in my grow room..

New vegging plant had some twisted goofy growth, here some pics of the underside of the goofy leaf, any broadmites???...
5a.jpg 4a.jpg 3a.jpg 2a.jpg 1a.jpg
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I like Neem-Cake in my soil, but oil should also work.
I would continue the treatment for 2 weeks and repeat again two weeks later. Additionally I would use diatom earth. You may dissolve some of it in water and spray it. As soon as it dries, the mites will be killed.
But remember to wash it off after a few hours, it will eventually clog the stomata if you do not. Put some Diatom Earth also on the substrate surface it helps against fungus gnats.

And about pets, bann them at least out of your grow room! They have no business there and could be the cause of your problems.

Another reason could be the soil mix. Do you mix your own and use dirt from outside? It's the best way to get infestination by unwanted insects! Buy a good potting soil, that's half the battle! If you still want to use your own mix, heat it up to 65-70°C for sterilization(oven/microwave). It works and the soil flora will rebuild quickly if you use a molasses containing fertilizer or products like MammothP or other beneficial bacteria.
 
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JSheeze

Well-Known Member
Back in the day we woulda called this chron :bigjoint:, anticipating the next grow with no bugs
IMG_20180117_005152.jpg IMG_20180117_005010.jpg

Also, because they were so cheap ($2.99/), I bought an order of the "cheap Chinese" E26 25w LED 6500k and the 6 that I'm using (24/7) to veg are all still working, 2mo in so far.. I'll update when they go out..
 

Dave455

Well-Known Member
Yeah, 3000°K can also be used well if you use enough of it.
You need about 10-12w of pure blue light per square meter for plants to show compact growth. Since 3000°k contains about 10-12% blue, 100w are sufficient for the plants to grow compactly. 70-80w of 3000°K could already be too little, then you would see increased stretching. You could also use 10w blue and 90w red "mono's" and would still get compact growth.

The GGboards have actually ~4.250°k. 4k is a spectrum many growers prefere because it will produce massive growth and have enough red for a good yield. It also helped to control stretching!
I am not surprised that these boards work so well. I only wish the 3,5 and 5k diodes were mixed and not distributed to 2 sides.
See many pushing the 3100k 315cmh agro light spectrum !!
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
New grow..

(20) 30w 6500k led veg area
View attachment 4126840
View attachment 4126841
View attachment 4126842
Suggestions and comments welcome..

A lil worried it's not enough light and also just 6500k??

Anyone have anecdotal with using just one spectrum during veg vs multiple spectrum? How much growth will I be missing out on?

20x 30w ~$110
IMO, chasing spectrum is not really worth it. Just feed them as much broad spectrum light at they can eat. 3500K is good for both veg and flower.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
New grow..

(20) 30w 6500k led veg area
View attachment 4126840
View attachment 4126841
View attachment 4126842
Suggestions and comments welcome..

A lil worried it's not enough light and also just 6500k??

Anyone have anecdotal with using just one spectrum during veg vs multiple spectrum? How much growth will I be missing out on?

20x 30w ~$110

If the bulbs really take 20-30 watts it should be more than enough light for good growth and you should miss nothing.
Many have used 6500k CFL's or MH for vegging I see no reason why it should not work with LED too. Results should be nice and bushy with short stagged nodes, beefy leaves, a thick stem and lots of thick branches. Just the way we like it.
 
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